home
***
CD-ROM
|
disk
|
FTP
|
other
***
search
/
ftp.xmission.com
/
2014.06.ftp.xmission.com.tar
/
ftp.xmission.com
/
pub
/
lists
/
dr
/
archive
/
v01.n025
< prev
next >
Wrap
Internet Message Format
|
2000-02-05
|
18KB
From: owner-dr-digest@lists.xmission.com (dr-digest)
To: dr-digest@lists.xmission.com
Subject: dr-digest V1 #25
Reply-To: dr-digest
Sender: owner-dr-digest@lists.xmission.com
Errors-To: owner-dr-digest@lists.xmission.com
Precedence: bulk
dr-digest Sunday, February 6 2000 Volume 01 : Number 025
(dr) Gold Valve misinformation...
(dr) 350SE clutch plates
Re: (dr) Information Request - Synthetic Oils
Re: (dr) Information Request - Synthetic Oils
(dr) drz400e
(dr) Mime-Version: 1.0
Re: (dr) drz400e
(dr) Synthetic Oil Discussion
Re: (dr) Synthetic Oil Discussion
(dr) Nipples and Zerks
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 11:04:08 -0700
From: "Kurt Simpson" <ajax@xmission.com>
Subject: (dr) Gold Valve misinformation...
I want to correct my earlier post. A couple of hours of education as helped me see
the error of my ways.
I wrote earlier about trying to make a choice with my DR650SE forks and which option
to use. My post was in error.
The choice I face is this: to either retain the conventional damping system (with
adjustments for balance and orifice size) or to install a "Gold Valve Cartridge
Emulator" system...where essentially the damping rod is opened up and the work is
done by the installed unit sitting on top of the old rod.
"Gold Valves" are only for cartridge style forks where the Gold Valve replaces the
OEM valving unit.
FWIW, the DR350 forks for my '97 (pre OEM cartridge) can be altered with an emulator
kit or a complete cartridge conversion for a little less than $400 not counting new
springs.
So, I think I have it right and apolgize for the confusion.
So, now the question is whether a non-aggressive rider who wishes to have a mostly
pavement dual sport "adventurer tourer" should work with the existing damping system
or go to the emulator system. This question would apply equally to KLR riders who
have the same choice as the DR650 except that the KLR forks are 4mm less in diameter.
Kurt
- -
to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 21:56:53 +0200
From: mikko vimpari <mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net>
Subject: (dr) 350SE clutch plates
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
- ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF7023.E9783A00
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi
Forgive me that i'm asking such simple and boring questions.
Are SE;s stock clutch drive plates aluminum or steel.(haven't opened =
clutchcover yet)
If they are steel,is it absolutely necessary replace them to the new =
ones,when changing worn friction plates,
or can you grind steel plates,if they are just glazed.
How you read those Mikuni needle numbers,is 5cd56 needle richer than my =
stock 5cd27
I would appreciate,if someone answered these questions.
=
Thanks for the great list
=
Mikko from Finland
=
DR350SE-97
=
yamaha wr250-92
- ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF7023.E9783A00
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Hi</DIV>
<DIV>Forgive me that i'm asking such simple and boring questions.</DIV>
<DIV>Are SE;s stock clutch drive plates aluminum or steel.(haven't =
opened=20
clutchcover yet)</DIV>
<DIV>If they are steel,is it absolutely necessary replace them to the =
new=20
ones,when changing worn friction plates,</DIV>
<DIV>or can you grind steel plates,if they are just glazed.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>How you read those Mikuni needle numbers,is 5cd56 needle richer =
than my=20
stock 5cd27</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I would appreciate,if someone answered these questions.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> &n=
bsp; &nb=
sp; &nbs=
p;  =
; =
&=
nbsp; Thanks=20
for the great list</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> &n=
bsp; &nb=
sp; &nbs=
p;  =
; =
&=
nbsp;=20
Mikko from Finland</DIV>
<DIV> &n=
bsp; &nb=
sp; &nbs=
p;  =
; =
&=
nbsp;=20
DR350SE-97</DIV>
<DIV> &n=
bsp; &nb=
sp; &nbs=
p;  =
; =
&=
nbsp; yamaha=20
wr250-92</DIV></BODY></HTML>
- ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF7023.E9783A00--
- -
to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 14:12:41 -0800
From: Brian Bucknam <squidlet@teleport.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Information Request - Synthetic Oils
Wayne Marsula tells us:
>[...]synthetic oils
>are wonderful in their proper use, However, there are few applications
>where they are cost effective in over-the-road vehicles.
> It won't hurt your vehicle to run it, but you are wasting your money...
I basically agree with your statement that using normal, high-grade oil is
the most cost-effective lubrication method. When is the last time any one
of us has experienced mechanical difficulties because the oil was 'too
old,' or 'not good enough'?
But I am curious: Just what is the "proper" use of synthetic oil? Racing?
Commercial vehicles?
Brian
- -
to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 17:06:18 -0800
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Information Request - Synthetic Oils
Brian Bucknam wrote:
>
> Wayne Marsula tells us:
> >[...]synthetic oils
> >are wonderful in their proper use, However, there are few applications
> >where they are cost effective in over-the-road vehicles.
> > It won't hurt your vehicle to run it, but you are wasting your money...
>
> I basically agree with your statement that using normal, high-grade oil is
> the most cost-effective lubrication method. When is the last time any one
> of us has experienced mechanical difficulties because the oil was 'too
> old,' or 'not good enough'?
>
> But I am curious: Just what is the "proper" use of synthetic oil? Racing?
> Commercial vehicles?
>
> Brian
Brian,
Right on! Those are the two best uses for synthetic oils, some
stationary engines also. But to take this a step further, I use
semi-synthetic oils, engine permitting. It is a real petroleum based
oil, not really a synthetic, but an "enhanced" oil. Find it works quite
well, definitely "looks" cleaner, and feels better when drained than
standard oils. I use Valvoline DuoBlend, other manufacturers also have
similar oils.
Wayne
- -
to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 22:12:19 -0500
From: Steven McGarry <steviemc@compuserve.com>
Subject: (dr) drz400e
i was reading a mag here in the uk about the drz 400e and they put it on=
a
dyno run and it only puts out 31.2hp at the rear wheel.
a long way off suzuki`s claimed 47.
- -
to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 21:46:56 -0600
From: joseph hart <hrtrun@theramp.net>
Subject: (dr) Mime-Version: 1.0
Kurt,
Is your Corbin on your DR650 as wide and as comfortable as the corbin on
your KLR.
Thanks in Advance,
Joe
- -
to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 19:56:03 -0800 (PST)
From: john miller <weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) drz400e
- --- Steven McGarry <steviemc@compuserve.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> i was reading a mag here in the uk about the drz
> 400e and they put it on a
> dyno run and it only puts out 31.2hp at the rear
> wheel.
> a long way off suzuki`s claimed 47.
>
>I'd be hard pressed to buy this one since a stock
DR350 can put up numbers close to that.
> to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to
> "majordomo@xmission.com"
> with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
> For information on digests or retrieving files and
> old messages send
> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in
> your message.
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
- -
to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 02:01:43 -0500
From: "James Alan Tomkins" <tomkins@epix.net>
Subject: (dr) Synthetic Oil Discussion
I just signed up to this list server about a week ago and would like to say
hello to everyone. I don't know why anyone would spend the extra money on
synthetic oils. I have a 1998 DR650SEW and I change my oil every 500-600
miles religiously. I followed the same procedure with my previous bikes
(XT350, RM250) and have never had a problem. I use a common 10W40 motor
oil. It's same stuff I use in my car and is sold everywhere here in
Pennsylvania. It meets all API SJ standards. Best part, it only costs me
about $2.50 to change my oil, $5.00 more if I change the filter and O-ring,
which I usually do. Furthermore, it takes less than 10 minutes do it.
About the same amount of time it takes to finish that first beer after a
long ride. I'll bet the inside of my case looks much better than anyone
running synthetic oil for 1000+ miles. Additionally, the oil cooler on the
650 helps with heat dissipation which I believe further negates the need for
synthetic oils. It's one of the main reasons I didn't buy a 350.
Jim
- -
to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 23:28:48 -0800
From: Wayne Marsula' <wormworks@home.com>
Subject: Re: (dr) Synthetic Oil Discussion
James Alan Tomkins wrote:
>
> I don't know why anyone would spend the extra money on
> synthetic oils. I have a 1998 DR650SEW and I change my oil every 500-600
> miles religiously. I followed the same procedure with my previous bikes
> (XT350, RM250) and have never had a problem. I use a common 10W40 motor
> oil. It's same stuff I use in my car and is sold everywhere here in
> Pennsylvania. It meets all API SJ standards. Best part, it only costs me
> about $2.50 to change my oil, $5.00 more if I change the filter and O-ring,
> which I usually do.
Hi Jim,
Welcome to the list! And thanks for your comments of agreement on the
synthetic oil. But I must say, changing your oil that frequently is also
unnecessary. The oil most certainly keeps its properties much longer
than that. Congratulations on taking such good care of your bike, but it
really won't hurt to let it go longer, and of course also will not hurt
to change it that soon. It's just spending more money than you need to.
Wayne Marsula'
Escondido, CA
- -
to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 00:03:11 -0800
From: Tom Myers <TomMyers@cycoactive.com>
Subject: (dr) Nipples and Zerks
>This topic was briefly touched upon last year, but nothing substantial ever
>landed in the archives...
>
>Has anyone successfully installed grease nipples in the steering head and
>swing-arms of their .....s? If so we need the details, details, details...
I put a zerk on my steeringhead bearing (XR600), greased it ONCE, and the
thing burped grease onto the fender for years. It was a mess. Probably
due to the temperature fluctuations of the drysump oil reservoir. Might
not be a problem on non-reservoir frames. I suggest simply taking it apart
and repack with a good quality waterproof grease. There's not enough
action at the steeringhead to warrant a zerk. It's not worth the mess
IMHO.
Make sure any seals related to the greased bearing can pass the old grease.
Would be bad to push the seals out at first greasing. Also verify that you
won't be filling other frame tubes with grease thru welding vents.
Suspension bearings are a different story. I've cut into the bearings with
a dremel, drilled passages, and installed zerks on every bike I've owned,
and never have had to replace any suspension bearings, even living in the
wet Northwest. Sometimes there's no room for a zerk, so you just press a
"cone fitting" into the drilled hole.
This is for hardcore craftsmen only. You have to be able to discern the
"no-load" directions of each bearing before grinding holes into them. To
pierce the bearing, use a dremel with the "cutoff wheel". Grind a narrow
slot (very carefully) until the metal becomes paper-thin and discolors.
Don't break thru . Stop grinding, wash away all the grinding dust, and
break out the thin metal with a sharp tool. Drill your passageways, and
remember you have to provide a method for the old grease to exit past the
seals. The pressure might ruin some kinds of seals which are not designed
to let pressure pass. You might have to loosen pivot bolts before
greasing. After pumping the new grease in, just cover the hole with
silicone. It works. Silicone adheres to metal right thru grease, which is
hard to believe until you try it.
Very satisfying to hear the snap crackle pop of new grease pushing out the
old grease (and sometimes water).
Or just disassemble the thing and reassemble with waterproof grease once a
year.
Tom
+-------------------------------------------+
| CycoActive Products
| 701 34th Ave
| Seattle, WA 98122 USA
|
| Design/Manufacture of Motorcycling Accessories
| webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com/mc
| e-mail: moto@cycoactive.com
| tel (206) 323-2349 fax (206) 325-6016
+-------------------------------------------+
- -
to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.
------------------------------
End of dr-digest V1 #25
***********************
-
To unsubscribe to $LIST, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com"
with "unsubscribe $LIST" in the body of the message.
For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
"help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.