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dr-digest          Thursday, February 3 2000          Volume 01 : Number 022



RE:  (dr) Introduction
RE:  (dr) Introduction
RE:  RE:  (dr) Introduction
(dr) 2000 Utah Get-Together
(dr) Gold Valve or Cartridge Emulator...Project DR650
RE: (dr) Gold Valve or Cartridge Emulator...Project DR650

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000 09:40:22 -0800
From: [e-mail]
Subject: RE:  (dr) Introduction

Hi Mike,

As a degreed electrical engineer I can tell you that your hunch regarding
the new smaller turn signals was correct.  The new smaller turn signals
probably have lower wattage bulbs in them.  This means at the same
voltage (12VDC) they will consume less current (amperage) than the
original turn signals.  The flasher relay is an electro-mechanical device
that needs a certain amount of load current to work correctly.  The new
smaller turn signals consume less current, so the flasher doesn't work
correctly.  A possible solution is to try to get replacement bulbs for
the new turn signals that are the same wattage as the original Suzuki
turn signals.  Maybe the bulbs from the original turn signals will fit in
the new smaller replacement turn signals.  If not, you may be able to get
some higher wattage bulbs from a catalog such as Chapparal, Dennis Kirk,
Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse, etc.

One concern about putting higher wattage bulbs in the new smaller turn
signals, is that higher wattage bulbs generate more heat and may melt the
socket, housing, or lense of the new smaller turn signals.  Because turn
signals are used intermittantly and not on constantly, I doubt this will
be a problem.

Best Regards,

Roger Herrscher

 -----Original Message-----
From: hyer0573 [SMTP:[e-mail]]
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 1:37 AM
To: "[e-mail]" <[e-mail]>
Subject:  (dr) Introduction

 << File: header.txt >>


Hello list,
I've got a couple of questions for the list but first a brief intro.  My
name is mike and I live in Ashland Oregon, (20 miles from the California
border).  I bought a 1993 dr350s about six months ago and have been
puting the bike and myself through the paces trying to figure out it's
limitations (and my own).  So far all I've done is remove the fender
extension and mount a smaller (maier) brake light on the fender along
with my plate. I've replaced the short shift lever with a longer more
tucked in version by baja-designs. I also swapped out my stock turn
signals for smaller lo-profile blinkers.  Thats were part of the problem
started.  The blinkers I bought use a smaller bulb and I am assuming
less amperage.  They dont blink very well unless I'm on the brakes or at
higher rpm's.  I am looking for replacements that will actually
blink,(local law enforcement will nail me for it eventually), if anyone
has any experience with small blinkers that work well and wont self
destruct please let me know.   I have also pulled the plug out of the
airbox with a noticeably improvement in power.  Next week I'm planning
on cutting the top out (until I can afford a vortex) rejetting and
installing the t-handle from scotts.  I know the main is a 135 and the
pilot is a 37.5.  If anyone has recomendations on what to try please let
me know. Thanks for this list and all your posts, I've learned alot by
lurking here and all your ideas and mods have inspired me to make some
changes to my bike.         Mike Hyers


 -
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 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000 15:47:43 -0600
From: "Jan Bradley" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE:  (dr) Introduction

Hey Roger,
                   Tell him how to put a resistor in the line to
duplicate the bigger bulb.. wouldn't that work? I have no idea of what
size or value of resistor to use, as I know enough about electricity to
be dangerous...

JB

>>> <[e-mail]> 02/02/00 11:40AM >>>


Hi Mike,

As a degreed electrical engineer I can tell you that your hunch
regarding
the new smaller turn signals was correct.  The new smaller turn signals

probably have lower wattage bulbs in them.  This means at the same
voltage (12VDC) they will consume less current (amperage) than the
original turn signals.  The flasher relay is an electro-mechanical
device
that needs a certain amount of load current to work correctly.  The new

smaller turn signals consume less current, so the flasher doesn't work

correctly.  A possible solution is to try to get replacement bulbs for

the new turn signals that are the same wattage as the original Suzuki

turn signals.  Maybe the bulbs from the original turn signals will fit
in
the new smaller replacement turn signals.  If not, you may be able to
get
some higher wattage bulbs from a catalog such as Chapparal, Dennis
Kirk,
Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse, etc.

One concern about putting higher wattage bulbs in the new smaller turn

signals, is that higher wattage bulbs generate more heat and may melt
the
socket, housing, or lense of the new smaller turn signals.  Because
turn
signals are used intermittantly and not on constantly, I doubt this
will
be a problem.

Best Regards,

Roger Herrscher

 -----Original Message-----
From: hyer0573 [SMTP:[e-mail]]
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 1:37 AM
To: "[e-mail]" <[e-mail]>
Subject:  (dr) Introduction

 << File: header.txt >>


Hello list,
I've got a couple of questions for the list but first a brief intro.
My
name is mike and I live in Ashland Oregon, (20 miles from the
California
border).  I bought a 1993 dr350s about six months ago and have been
puting the bike and myself through the paces trying to figure out it's
limitations (and my own).  So far all I've done is remove the fender
extension and mount a smaller (maier) brake light on the fender along
with my plate. I've replaced the short shift lever with a longer more
tucked in version by baja-designs. I also swapped out my stock turn
signals for smaller lo-profile blinkers.  Thats were part of the
problem
started.  The blinkers I bought use a smaller bulb and I am assuming
less amperage.  They dont blink very well unless I'm on the brakes or
at
higher rpm's.  I am looking for replacements that will actually
blink,(local law enforcement will nail me for it eventually), if
anyone
has any experience with small blinkers that work well and wont self
destruct please let me know.   I have also pulled the plug out of the
airbox with a noticeably improvement in power.  Next week I'm planning
on cutting the top out (until I can afford a vortex) rejetting and
installing the t-handle from scotts.  I know the main is a 135 and the
pilot is a 37.5.  If anyone has recomendations on what to try please
let
me know. Thanks for this list and all your posts, I've learned alot by
lurking here and all your ideas and mods have inspired me to make some
changes to my bike.         Mike Hyers


 -
 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.




- -
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 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.

- -
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 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000 14:43:16 -0800
From: [e-mail]
Subject: RE:  RE:  (dr) Introduction

Hi Jan,

You could put a resistor in parallel (not in series) with the lower
wattage light bulbs, but that is alot more work than simply getting
higher wattage light bulbs.  You would have to splice into the wiring to
add the resistors.

If you really wanted to do this with resistors,  you would have to
measure the current (Amperage) of the original light bulbs while they
were on.  Then you would have to do the same for the new smaller light
bulbs.  Then you could calculate the size of resistor that you would need
by using the three formulas below:

Original bulb current - smaller bulb current = difference in current.

12 Volts / (difference in current) = resistor value in ohms.  Use this
value or the next standard lower value.

144 / (resistor value in ohms) = power rating of resistor in watts.  Use
this value or the next standard higher value.



Because motorcycles are subject to a lot of vibration, water, mud, etc.,
all of which are hard on electrical connections, I personally would try
to avoid the resistor method because it requires additional electrical
connections.

Good Luck.

Best Regards,

Roger Herrscher


 -----Original Message-----
From: jan.bradley [SMTP:[e-mail]]
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 1:40 PM
To: <[e-mail]>; <[e-mail]>
Subject:  RE:  (dr) Introduction

 << File: header.txt >>


Hey Roger,
                   Tell him how to put a resistor in the line to
duplicate the bigger bulb.. wouldn't that work? I have no idea of what
size or value of resistor to use, as I know enough about electricity to
be dangerous...

JB

>>> <[e-mail]> 02/02/00 11:40AM >>>


Hi Mike,

As a degreed electrical engineer I can tell you that your hunch
regarding
the new smaller turn signals was correct.  The new smaller turn signals


probably have lower wattage bulbs in them.  This means at the same
voltage (12VDC) they will consume less current (amperage) than the
original turn signals.  The flasher relay is an electro-mechanical
device
that needs a certain amount of load current to work correctly.  The new


smaller turn signals consume less current, so the flasher doesn't work


correctly.  A possible solution is to try to get replacement bulbs for


the new turn signals that are the same wattage as the original Suzuki

turn signals.  Maybe the bulbs from the original turn signals will fit
in
the new smaller replacement turn signals.  If not, you may be able to
get
some higher wattage bulbs from a catalog such as Chapparal, Dennis
Kirk,
Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse, etc.

One concern about putting higher wattage bulbs in the new smaller turn


signals, is that higher wattage bulbs generate more heat and may melt
the
socket, housing, or lense of the new smaller turn signals.  Because
turn
signals are used intermittantly and not on constantly, I doubt this
will
be a problem.

Best Regards,

Roger Herrscher

 -----Original Message-----
From: hyer0573 [SMTP:[e-mail]]
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 1:37 AM
To: "[e-mail]" <[e-mail]>
Subject:  (dr) Introduction

 << File: header.txt >>


Hello list,
I've got a couple of questions for the list but first a brief intro.
My
name is mike and I live in Ashland Oregon, (20 miles from the
California
border).  I bought a 1993 dr350s about six months ago and have been
puting the bike and myself through the paces trying to figure out it's
limitations (and my own).  So far all I've done is remove the fender
extension and mount a smaller (maier) brake light on the fender along
with my plate. I've replaced the short shift lever with a longer more
tucked in version by baja-designs. I also swapped out my stock turn
signals for smaller lo-profile blinkers.  Thats were part of the
problem
started.  The blinkers I bought use a smaller bulb and I am assuming
less amperage.  They dont blink very well unless I'm on the brakes or
at
higher rpm's.  I am looking for replacements that will actually
blink,(local law enforcement will nail me for it eventually), if
anyone
has any experience with small blinkers that work well and wont self
destruct please let me know.   I have also pulled the plug out of the
airbox with a noticeably improvement in power.  Next week I'm planning
on cutting the top out (until I can afford a vortex) rejetting and
installing the t-handle from scotts.  I know the main is a 135 and the
pilot is a 37.5.  If anyone has recomendations on what to try please
let
me know. Thanks for this list and all your posts, I've learned alot by
lurking here and all your ideas and mods have inspired me to make some
changes to my bike.         Mike Hyers


 -
 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.





 -
 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.




- -
 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 17:41:33 -0800
From: "Fred Hink" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) 2000 Utah Get-Together

The Dual Sport News web site has been updated with the details of the 2000
Utah Get-Together.  You can see the rally information page at...
http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page54.html

You can also check out my site on the Utah rally at...
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/rally.html

See you there.

Fred


- -
 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 06:47:24 -0700
From: "Kurt Simpson" <[e-mail]>
Subject: (dr) Gold Valve or Cartridge Emulator...Project DR650

I need some help. Bob Bell is working on my forks (he made a mistake and send them to
the anodizer when they didn't need it so I guess I'm getting hard anodizing for
free).

Unlike the DR350, a full cartridge conversion is not possible without some machining.
So, I have two choices. One to install a cartridge emulator that is adjustable only
by removing the fork cap and spring. Or to install a gold valve with a custom shim
stack.

Which way should I go? Bob says the gold valve option makes the ride a little like a
Cadillac while the emulator gives you more control. What I'm after is to make the DR
into a more dirt worthy KLR type "adventure tourer" able to travel long distances in
relative comfort (pavement) but jump off the pavement to explore dirt/gravel roads
and trails...

Many thanks,

Kurt


- -
 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 06:36:29 -0800
From: "Jesse Kientz   www.kientech.com" <[e-mail]>
Subject: RE: (dr) Gold Valve or Cartridge Emulator...Project DR650

I would go for the gold Kurt,I have installed them and you can select your
valving stack better with the gold valve In my opinion any way.  The type
III anodizing is better than what was on there so you are better off
with it.....Jesse

- -----Original Message-----
From: [e-mail] [mailto:[e-mail]]On
Behalf Of Kurt Simpson
Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2000 5:47 AM
To: dr
Subject: (dr) Gold Valve or Cartridge Emulator...Project DR650


I need some help. Bob Bell is working on my forks (he made a mistake and
send them to
the anodizer when they didn't need it so I guess I'm getting hard anodizing
for
free).

Unlike the DR350, a full cartridge conversion is not possible without some
machining.
So, I have two choices. One to install a cartridge emulator that is
adjustable only
by removing the fork cap and spring. Or to install a gold valve with a
custom shim
stack.

Which way should I go? Bob says the gold valve option makes the ride a
little like a
Cadillac while the emulator gives you more control. What I'm after is to
make the DR
into a more dirt worthy KLR type "adventure tourer" able to travel long
distances in
relative comfort (pavement) but jump off the pavement to explore dirt/gravel
roads
and trails...

Many thanks,

Kurt


- -
 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.


- -
 to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "[e-mail]"
 with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
 "help" to the same address.  Do not use quotes in your message.

------------------------------

End of dr-digest V1 #22
***********************

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 To unsubscribe to $LIST, send an email to "[e-mail]"
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 For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send
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