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1994-06-03
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Growing Media, including Compost
A proper growth medium is essential to giving seedlings or
cuttings the right start. Prolonged and vigorous plant
growth requires a good nutrient balance, achieved through
soil additives or fertilizers. Compost can play an
important role in the early life of cutting or seedling.
Knowing what to use is what this section is about.
Potting Soil And Garden Soil
Most plants need a growth medium that contains at least
some soil; most grow happily in ordinary potting soil.
However, some benefit from richer soil mixes, which may be
purchased separately, or be prepared using a richer
compost. Grow'Em will indicate if a special growth medium
is required.
Straight garden soil is not appropriate for starting
plants, or for the growth of houseplants: it is poorly
drained, poor in nutrients, and often contains lethal
nematodes, fungus, etc. Use a commercial preparation, or
carefully prepare your own growing mixture, as below.
Soil mixes frequently contain variable amounts of
"filler," light and loose stuff that prevents compaction,
thus helping with aeration and drainage. Perlite and
vermiculite, frequently used for this purpose, also help
retain soil moisture. Coarse sand can be used to provide
very rapid drainage, where desired.
A good starter mixture for most ordinary seeds and
cuttings consists of equal parts of good topsoil and
filler, provided the soil is truly sterile. For some
plants, straight potting soil is too rich, and will burn
the seedlings: use a commercial seed-starting mixture, or
mix your own keeping this in mind.
Sterilized garden soil may be mixed with compost and
filler for good effect, if some thought is given to the
nutrient balance. Mix well, and keep light and fluffy.
A mixture of ordinary soil mix and rough builder's sand is
ideal for cacti and succulents, as for alpine gardens.
For the latter, consider solid helpings of sand, gravel
and compost.
Peat
Peat is another filler for any growth medium, but is also
useful on its own, or mixed with perlite and vermiculite.
I find it most useful, mixed with soil, with acid-loving
plants. Alone, its nutritive value is low, and once
allowed to dry out, it becomes about as useful as
cardboard. Wet thoroughly before use.
Manure, Nitrogen, And Potassium
Manure is a rich source of nitrogen, and an inch of cattle
or horse manure, or half that of poultry, sheep, or
rabbit, is a good addition to the garden. Use only well-
composted manure at least six months old, or the
sterilized manure sold commercially.
Bone Meal And Other Natural Additives
Bone meal, rock phosphate and superphosphate are good
sources of phosphorus, essential to plant growth, and of
calcium. These must be mixed directly into the growing
medium, in the root zone, for phosphorus to be absorbed.
I avoid rock phosphate in the vegetable garden, as it may
contain significant amounts of uranium.
Blood meal and fish meal are good sources of nitrogen.
Wood ashes and potash (potassium) sulphate raise soil
potassium levels. However, the former raises soil pH, for
more alkaline soil, and the latter lowers it, for a more
acidic soil. Use both with caution, if at all.
Do not use too much of any additives, as strong
concentrations will adversely affect plant growth. Use no
more than two or three pounds per 100 square feet, once a
year. Add no more than a handful to the compost pile.
Have your soil tested, or test it yourself. Kits are
cheap and readily available, and should guide what you
add, and how much, keeping both nutrient levels and the
desired final acidity in mind.
Fertilizers
Healthy soil needs no chemical fertilization. Fertilizers
may even do more harm than good: they typically lack many
essential trace minerals, may harm soil microorganisms,
and can be detrimental to soil health.
Most houseplants, however, benefit from regular feeding
during the growing period, as well as from the use of
well-rotted compost. Do not overfeed, and use all
fertilizers as directed by the manufacturer. Newly potted
or compost-fed plants require no fertilization in the
first few months.
Different plants have different nutrient requirements.
Fertilizers are formulated with this in mind, and will
usually list its nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium content,
and state what type of plant it is intended for.
Cacti and succulents will tolerate higher concentrations
of fertilizer; fertilize these often. Try a tomato
fertilizer (rich in magnesium and phosphorus) with
flowering plants, half-strength on young plants. For
young seedlings, use only diluted fertilizer solutions.
About Compost
Compost adds richness to your soil, adds resiliency, adds
aeration. It provides a warm, comfortable haven for any
tender young transplant, nourishes it. While
indispensable for outdoor plants, even indoor plants may
benefit. Cut ordinary potting soil with the stuff, or use
it to top-dress your potted plants each spring.
Do not, however, use it to start seedlings or cuttings,
unless the mix is fully composted, and the nutrient
balance is known to be right. More in version 2.0.
Composting is a simple process: microorganisms digest
dead material in a warm, moist environment. Oxygen may or
may not be used, though such aerobic composting is the
fastest.
Any enclosure may be used for composting; all should allow
for good air entry. Simple brick enclosures can be used,
chicken wire works well, and perforated barrels and
garbage cans can ensure an adequate oxygen supply.
The ideal bin is about a cubic yard, small enough to turn,
and big enough to heat properly. Side-by-side bins allow
for quicker, more efficient composting. One is used for
slowly degrading material, the other for partially
processed and quickly composting materials.
Done properly, almost no smell results. Dead debris
simmers at about 150F, quietly breaking down, summer and
winter. The heat generated in aerobic composting is
sufficient to kill pathogens and most weed seeds, and many
herbicides also will be broken down. Turn the pile
frequently, to ensure proper aeration and speed
composting.
Cold heaps do eventually produce good compost, but weeds
may thrive on these piles, and eventually in your garden.
ONLY USE FINISHED COMPOST ON YOUR GARDEN!
Rapid rotters, like over-ripe tomatoes, should be finely
chopped and mixed well into the pile. Add grass
clippings, decaying mulch, sawdust, coffee grounds and
eggshells freely. Weeds and leaves may be added, provided
aerobic composting is taken to its very end. Try to
balance green stuff with two to three times as much brown
material.
DO NOT COMPOST animal and dairy products, human or animal
excrement, which may harbour disease as well as smell,
treated wood or paper products (except black-on-white
newsprint), or produce-gone-bad.
A good compost heap is moist, not soggy, as wet as a damp
sponge. In a dry season, water your compost heap lightly.
Too wet, however, it becomes a soggy anaerobic heap:
protect it in a downpour.
In ideal situations, good compost could result in two to
three weeks. In colder climes, longer times will be
needed - be patient. Again, only use finished compost.
Pathogens should be killed, weed seeds should be dead, and
compost should add to, not deplete nitrogen in your soil.