This crank looks very nice and is very light and stiff.
The only remaining problem is the Bullseye stock bearings
are really poor, and rather unique, but I may have found
a solution to that.
2. Magic Motorcycle Co.
These are really nice, and the way to go, about 600.
3. Grafton Speed Sticks, new model. I talked to them about
a custom set, and they said they would consider it.
very pretty, maybe not quite as trick as the Magic crank.
If you are interested let me know, maybe we can work a
discount.
After you have the cranks, you have to build a frame that will
let you use them. There are several factors that you must consider.
Getting the cranks 1st will help w/ several dimensions you must fix.
1. The frame will need to be lugless, since you will not be able
to get a BB lug that will work with the BB height ( mine is 12.25"
for 215mm cranks and I have normal cornering clearance) you need for
cranks in the size range we are talking. Same for most all the
other lugs w/ a few exceptions.
2. You need to consider several crank clearance issues.
- the chainstay width must not be so wide the
cranks will hit them at the crank length you
choose. This means the Q factor (pedal to pedal
width) of your crank will be a bit wider than that
of a 170mm crank. This will affect the cornering
clearance of your setup, but is not a disadvantage
biomechanically as your pelvis is a bit wider than
that of a smaller person, assuming you are dimensionally
proportionate.
- The chainstay length must be long enough that your right
heel doesn't strike the rear derailleur. I have short
wide feet (size 12) and by actual measurement (pedalling
tests), I needed a 17" rear chainstay length. This balanced
the bike nicely, it handles well. I like classic 70's
racing geometry w/ Lemond/French influences (long [61.5 cm] top tube, relaxed [72.5] seat angle). It is a stage racing bike, predictable, stable handling w /an all day ride.
A caveat,
I fit the pro flexibility test, I ride relaxed w/ a flat
back and am very flexible. If you are someone who
rides with a hump in your back, you probably need a very
different bike, a la the Bicycle Guide "Roosa Special", or
the Clark Kent "Alexi Grewal AX-1). These bikes are built
for people that have relatively inflexible pelvic/back
junctions and need to relax that angle in their setup.
When you see people riding w/ a hump in their back,
it indicates they are trying to fit their body onto a
geometry that is not right for their physiology.
3. You will find that your gearing will not change much, I ride
52/53-38/39 front and 12-23 or 13-24 rear. I maybe ride one
gear larger. Originally I thought I would ride way bigger
gears, it didn't turn out that way.
I hope this helps you out, I didn't know what I was getting into
when I started down this path, it has been interesting. I have
learned a lot about a number of areas, as is usually the case
when you choose to solve a problem in detail for yourself.
Send me email if any of the points are unclear, I will try to
respond in a timely manner, but I am very busy these days.
