St. Rémy-de-Provence Provence-Beyond (Beyond the French Riviera) ® Bouches du Rhône (13210) Population: 9340 Altitude: 60 m Nearby: [ Alpilles | Arles 22 | Avignon 20 km | Les-Baux-de-Provence 10 | Cavaillon 19 | Glanum - Les Antiques 1.5 ] Photos: The 19th-century dolphin fountain and the 16th-century Mairie/convent (22k) An old fountain and a plaque to Nostradamus (24k) Below: [ History | People | Museums | Wine | Hiking | Lodging | Reader's Comments ] This lovely Gallo-Roman village is on the plains at the northern edge of the Alpilles, 20 km south of Avignon. Residents more recent than the Romans include Dr. Schweitzer, Dr. Nostradamus and Van Gogh. The old village of St. Rémy is pretty and picturesque, and protected by the circular 14th-century wall which is lined by its protective circle of buildings. The dolphin fountain (photo) from the beginning of the 19th century is located in the shaded square in front of the Mairie. That lovely building (larger photo, 22k) is from the 16th century and is on the site of an old convent. This is a busy, active village, with a good selection of restaurants and hotels for the traveller. Among the shops in the old village are a few with some regional pottery, including some beautiful sunflower plates no doubt influenced by Van Gogh [who lived here]. The road between St. Rémy and the autoroute (at Cavaillon, 17 km to the east) is a scenic drive out of the past: the road is lined by plane trees that are lovely and give beautiful shade during the summer, yet menacing for the imprudent driver. Name First record, 5th century: Glanum (a Gallo-Roman city) Medieval: St. Rémy-de-Provence (when the village was given to the monks of the abbey of St-Remi-en-France) History Prehistoric: Signs such as early rock carvings and Hallstatt pottery has been discovered in local grottos, including the grotte de Baldouin, grotte des Chats and grotte des Nuits. Greek-Roman: The antique site of Glanum, just south of town at the edge of the Alpilles, was a Greek city, eventually covered by a Roman city, and there are some beautiful Roman artifacts, including a mausoleum and the oldest Roman arch of the narbonensis region. (Roman) Medieval: The "modern" town of St. Rémy-de-Provence was founded under the protection of the Abbey of St-Rémi of Rheims after the destruction of Glanum. Glanum - Les Antiques Illustrious Sons Nostradamus, known in ancient France as an outstanding physician and elsewhere in the world as prophet, was born here on the rue Hoche. Doctor Albert Schweitzer was "hospitalized" here in 1917-18, for the remainder of the war. He wasn't so much ill as German. He took advantage of his "hospitalization" to write The Decay and the Restoration of Civilization and Civilization and Ethics, part of his philosophical study of civilization. Vincent Van Gogh had been living in Arles during 1988-89. In May 1889 he was voluntarily confined in the Asylum of Saint-Paul in Saint-Rémy. During this period of his life he painted two of his most notable works: Starry Night and Self-Portrait. He was released from the hospital in May 1890 and left for Auvers-sur-Oise, near Paris. He shot himself on 27 July 1890 and died two days later. Paparazzi Notes (accuracy accidental). Caroline of Monaco lives here, and ex-Princess Diana has bought a place. Museums, Visits   Musée Archéologique Greek and Roman artifacts from Glanum; prehistoric room Location: Rue du Parage, in the 15th-century Hotel de Sade tel: (33) 490 92 64 04 Open: Apr-Dec; 1-hr guided visits Musée des Alpilles Arts et Traditions populaires: costumes, furniture, local crafts, santons, minerals from the Alpilles, Nostradamus documents. tel: (33) 490 92 08 10 Open: Apr-June, Sept-Oct: 10h-12h, 14h-18h; July-Aug: 10h-12h, 15h-20h; Nov-Dec: 10h-12h, 14h-17h; Musée des Aromes de Provence Perfumes and distillery museum, Laboratory Florame 34 Bvd Mirabeau tel: (33) 490 92 48 70; fax: (33) 490 92 48 80 Open: 10h-12h, 15h-18h; guided visit by reservation Chapelle Notre Dame de Pitie Paintings and portraits in a 12th-13th century chapel tel: (33) 4; fax: (33) 4 Open: Oct-Mar: 10h30-12h30; Apr-Sept: 10h30-12h30, 15h-19h Cloitre Saint Paul de Mausole This 12th-century ex-monastery is now a "maison de santé", famous for having housed Vincent Van Gogh (1889-1890) and Doctor Albert Schweitzer (1914-1918) Open: 9h-12, 14h-18h; free entrance Hotel Estrine - Gan Gogh Hommage to Vincent Van Gogh. and expositions of contemporary artists The 18th-century hotel is in the old village. tel: (33) 490 92 34 72 Open: Mar-Dec, Tue-Sun: 10h-12h, 15h-19h Mas de la Pyramide A 20m high carved stone; presentation of Roman and Pre-Roman stone work Located at the Roman quarry of Glanum. tel: (33) 490 92 00 81 Open: Summer: 9h-12h, 14h-19h; Winter: 9h-12h, 14h-17h Collegiale Saint Martin - Grand Orgue (Organ) Organ concerts, on this 5000-pipe organ, are given every Saturday, 17h30, from June-Sept. Guided Tour of Sites Painted by Van Gogh 1h30 Tue and Thur: 10h; Sat: 10h, 17h, by reservation at the Office de Tourisme Languages: English, French, German, Provençal, Spanish Guided Tour - The Time of Nostradamus 1h30 Fri: 10h, by reservation at the Office de Tourisme Languages: English, French, German, Provençal Dates, Numbers Market day: Monday-Saturday Marché de Primeurs (wine): 1 May; 25 Dec Livestock market: 25 Apr; 28 Oct Fêtes de la Transhumance: beginning June; end Sept Festival Provençal: 15 Aug Office de Tourisme Place Jean Jaures Tel: (33) 490 92 05 22; Fax: (33) 490 92 98 52 Mairie - tel: (33) 490 92 08 10 Wine St Rémy-de-Provence is in the region of the new appellation, Coteaux Baux-de-Provence wines. Hiking Maps: IGN "bleue" (1:25,000) 3042 ouest "Châteaurenard, St-Remy-Pvce" IGN "verte" (1:100,000) #66 "Avignon, Montpellier" The GR6 (Grande Randonnée) goes through St. Rémy. To the west, the GR6 climbs up the center of the Alpilles to Baux-de-Provence, then follows the ridge to the end, and continues on northwest to Tarascon and Pont du Gard. St. Rémy to Baux-de-Provence via the GR6 is 7-8 km, starting at 60 m altitude, climbing to 313 m at the Tour de Guet, dropping to 160 m, then up to 218 m at Baux. It's probably about 3 hours each way, making it a good day hike out and back. The hills are thickly forested, wild and beautiful. To the east, the GR6 also climbs up to the top of the Alpilles, then goes east past Eygalières and Eyguières, crossing the autoroute north of Salon-de-Provence. Camping Camping Municipal de Mas de Nicolas Tel: (33) 490 92 27 05; Fax: (33) 490 92 36 83 Lodging Listing available Reader's Comments These comments were contributed by Marcia D., San Francisco, Nov 1998: In St. Remy, we have twice stayed at the 2-star Hotel Canto Cigalo. It was about $50/night, including breakfast. The owners are exceptionally gracious, and one has a generous breakfast in the beautifully laid-out and maintained gardens. In St. Remy, we also found two restaurants worth mentioning. Both are a little pricey by our standards (albeit not St. Remy's). The first is Bistro des Alpilles. Excellent local cuisine, and you have to love any place that garnishes a dish with basil picked from a window plant immediately before service. The second is Jardin de Frederic, with amenities, service and cuisine typical of places costing far more. About $30/person for an a la carte dinner including 1/2 carafe of wine.