Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer Provence-Beyond (Beyond the French Riviera) ® Bouches du Rhône (13460) Population: 2,230 (50,000 plus in the summer) Altitude: 0 m Nearby: [ Camargue | Arles ] Photos: The fortified church with the arcade bell tower (20 k) The tower end of the fortified church (26 k) The Baroncelli Museum in the village center (18 k) Below: [ History | Dates | Gastronomy | Arena Bull Fights | Camargue Tours | Museums | Playgrounds | Cycling | Hiking | Lodging ] Ste-Maries-de-la-Mer was a fishing village, built on an island in the heart of the Camargue, where the Petit Rhône joins the sea. The original village was grouped around the Notre-Dame-de-la-Mer church, spreading out as it grew. The town is not picturesque in the style of the medieval villages of the "back country". Today it's a compact seaside resort town, full of shops and activities oriented for the tourist trade. Ste-Maries-de-la-Mer has a wonderful location, on the sea and in the Camargue, and the atmosphere in the busy seasons is festive. Visit Ste-Maries-de-la-Mer (and the Camargue) year-round. Summer has the warmest weather, the crowds, the activities and music. Off-season has the feeling of the sea, with long empty beaches, the cry of the seabirds, and a relaxing solitude. The gathering of the Gypsies in May is an exciting and famous period. During off-season holidays, such as "Toussaints" weekend, has less crowds and cooler weather, but plenty of activity. Name 12th-c: Sancta Maria de Ratis; 13th-c: Villa de Mari; 15th-c: Notre-Dame-de-la-Mer; 17th-c: la Ville-des-Trois-Maries; 1838: Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer History The Provençal Legend: Around the year 40, a boat was launched from Jerusalem, without sail, oars or supplies, and drifted across the Mediterranean until it drifted ashore at this site. The refugees in the boat were: Mary Jacobe, the mother of James and the sister of the Virgin; Mary Salome, the mother of the apostles James Major and John; Lazarus and his two sisters, Mary Magdalene and Martha; St Maximinus; Cedonius, who was born blind and cured and Sarah, the servant of the two Marys. After landing safely, the group built a small oratory to the Virgin. The disciples wandered off their separate ways, Mary Magdalene went to Ste-Baume (map E3), and Martha went to Tarascon. Marie Salome, Marie Jacobe and Sarah remained in the Camargue, and were later buried in the oratory. The tomb of these three saints became a cult object, and has been the attraction of pilgrimages for the past nineteen centuries. They were reburied beneath the chancel during the Barbarian invasions, and then removed and enshrined in 1448 by Good King René. Medieval: The Church. In the 9th century, the oratory was replaced by a fortified church, the Notre-Dame-de-la-Mer. In the 11th century, the monks of Montmajour established a priory here. In the 12th century, the monks rebuilt the church, incorporating it into the town's fortifications. In the 14th century, the projecting machicolations were added to the top, allowing boiling oil and dropped projectiles to be used against attackers. Anecdote: In the year 869, when the original fortified church was being built under the direct supervision of the Archbishop of Arles, the Saracens raided the town and carried him away. The people of Arles quickly raised the demanded ransom, the Saracens returned with the Archbishop, set him up on the throne with great respect, and parted with the loot. The grateful people only then discovered that the prelate had died while in custody, and the Saracens had respectfully returned a corpse to the throne. Gastronomy This is a French seaside town, so be sure to sample the wide variety of fish and shellfish dishes. "Terrines à la Provençale" is made with tiny clam-like shellfish. There's a Spanish influence here, too, and good paellas are a specialty. The "western" flavor of the Camargue, sometimes called the Texas of France, is based on the raising of the black bulls (taureaux), so there are good steaks for the carnivores among us. The "Gardiane de Taureau à l'Ancienne" is the local version of a beef stew, similar to the Provencal "daube". The arrival of the Marys and Lazarus is commemorated by the "navette", a small pastry baked in the shape of the boat (navette) they arrived in. Dates, Numbers Market day: Mon, Fri during the summer Gypsy gathering (Pèlerinage des Gitans): every May Fête Votive, Fête du Cheval: June Fête Virginenco: next-to-last Sun July Fêtes Folklorique: several during the summer Grande Féria: 15 Aug Fête de Marie Salomé: 22 Oct (nearest Sun) Office de Tourisme - Tel: (33) 490 97 82 55; Fax: (33) 490 97 71 15 Pilgrimages 24-25 May. The saint's day for Mary Jacobe is 25 May, and 24-25 May is the largest pilgrimage and celebration, and the annual gathering of the gypsies (gitans), who venerate their patron saint, Sarah. The gypsies, who start arriving during the preceding week, use the time of gathering for marriage requests and baptisms. Oct 22 (nearest Sun). The saint's day for Mary Salome is celebrated by a weekend of festivities and events, including the procession to the beach for the blessing of the sea. Arena - Bull Fights Ste-Maries-de-la-Mer has an arena, at the edge of the beach, for bull fights with the black Camargue bulls. In the French style, the bulls are not killed. Camargue Tours Camargue "safaris" by 4x4 "jeeps" are available in the village, and horseback tours are available along the road north of the village (see the Camargue page for both). Museums Musée Baroncelli This museum is in the 19th-century town hall (photo). It presents the zoology and the agro-pastoral ways of the Camargue, and the history of Stes. Maries. Open: Apr-May 10h-12h, 14h-19h, except Tue; June 10h-12h, 14h-19h; July-Aug 10h-13h, 16h-20h; Sept 10h-12h, 14h-19h; Oct-11 Nov 10h-12h, 14h-18h, except Tue. Playground A fenced playground is right at the seafront, beside the Arena. Cycling Cycling in the Camargue is ideal, along roads and lanes that are absolutely flat, in the midst of the nature reserve. Several shops in the village offer cycle rental. Sports Other sports available for visitors to Ste. Maries-de-la-Mer are sailing, skin-diving, swimming and fishing. Camping Hiking Maps: IGN (1:50,000) Parc Naturel Régional de Camargue Refer to the Camargue page for hiking information. Lodging Listing available As a popular vacation spot, there are many hotels in the village and Gites accommodation in the surrounding area. There are also many campsites and large areas for parking caravans and campers.