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Carpentras
Provence-Beyond (Beyond the French Riviera) ®
Vaucluse (84200)
Population: 24,200
Altitude: 95 m
Nearby:
[ Aix/pvc 84 km | Avignon 25 | Beaumes-de-Venise 9 | Cavaillon 27 | Châteauneuf-du-Pape 23 | Marseilles 101 | Mazan 7 | Orange 23 | Pernes-les-Fontaines 6 | Salon/pvc 51 ]
Below: [ History | Dates-Numbers | Transportation | Gastronomy | Playgrounds | Wine | Hiking | Lodging ]
Like neighboring Orange, Carpentras is a large town, surrounded by urbanization. The center of Carpentras is concentrated inside a ring of boulevards, and in the center of the center, the cathedral and other ancient sites are located inside a circle of small streets. Our Beyond page covers only the central "old town" part of Carpentras.
The "focused" center has wide squares, shops, restaurants and much activity. The St Siffrein cathedral, the Roman Arc de Triomphe, the "halls" and a fine old covered passage, with high domed-class roof, are all here. The surrounding part of the old town is residential; the narrow streets and old buildings are well maintained, but it's obviously not the wealthiest people living here.
Photo-3: the covered Passage Boyer (22 k)
Carpentras has been the regional market town for the ancient Ligurians and the Romans on up to the present. It's known for its early strawberries in the spring, and its carmel berlingots (below).
Sites
The 14th-century Porte d'Orange is a massive fortified gateway at the north side of the old town [photo, 17 k]. This is all that's left of Pope Innocent VI's protective wall with 32 towers and 4 gates.
The ancient fountain [photo-5, 24 k] is on Bvd du Nord, across the street from the Porte d'Orange.
The Cathedral St Pierre and St Siffrein is right in the center. The cathedral was started, by Pope Benedict XIII of Avignon, in 1404 and finished early in the 16th century.
[Photo-1: The front of the Cathedral (21 k)]
[Photo-2: Gargoyles on top of the Cathedral (12 k)]
The Roman Arc de Triomphe [Photo-6, 23 k] is on Place d'Inguimbert, in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice, tucked down at the side of the cathedral. It was moved here during the Middle Ages, probably from the main cardo leading out of town (like in Orange). It became the porch of the bishop's palace, converted into the Palais de Justice during the Revolution.
The 13th-century Château des Comtes de Toulouse, in the center, has a fabulous 1576 campanile [Photo-7, 19 k] representing the universe. You'll have to wander around some, though, to get a view of it between the buildings. (beffroi - belltower)
The 15th-century Synagogue in the center is a rather plain-looking building, but it's famous for being the oldest in France. Carpentras (along with Avignon, Cavaillon and Isle-sur-la-Sorgue) had a Jewish ghetto until the Revolution.
Name
Mentioned by Pline in the 1st century: Carpentoracte Meminorum or Carbantorate; 4th century: Carpentoratensium civitas
History
Ligurian: A Memini oppidum located at La Lègue, about 4 km southeast of town, was occupied from at least the 6th century BC. La Lègue is an area of low hills rising above the plains, near La Masque, La Fauconnette and Piemarin. There's nothing remaining of it now, according to the chef in Le Rich bar-brasserie, at the end of Rue de la République; he was born at Croix de Ponsard, and spent his childhood exploring the area of La Lègue.
Roman:
The Roman foundation here, called Forum Neronis by Ptolemy, might have been used as a settlement for some of Caesar's legionaries. It was used to control the route from the North into Provence and Italy. The only Roman monument surviving is the triumphal arch (Arc de Triomphe).
Medieval:
Carpentras was ravaged successively by barbarian invasions during the 5th and 6th centuries, and again in the 12th century. During the 12th and 13th centuries it was a fief, with rule shared between several lords. It was later shared between the count of Toulouse and the bishop. In the 14th century, it was ravaged by the Routiers and by famine. If it wasn't barbarians, it was disease: the town suffered the plague in 1348, 1374, 1628 and 1631. Then in the 16th century, the bloody Wars of Religion raged, with the town under Protestant attack many times. Carpentras became the capital of the Comtat Venaissin in 1320, under control of the Pope until the 18th century. In 1791, the town was conquered and brought into France.
- Dates, Numbers
- Provencal Market: Friday
- Daily Market (except Monday): at the Marché Gare
- Truffle Market: Friday mornings in season (Nov-Mar)
- Foire commerciale: at St Siffrein, 27 Nov
- Fête: week of 14 July
- Fête de l'Auzon: beginning July
- Salon de Santonniers: Dec
- Dance, Music, Theater Festival: July-Aug
- Office de Tourisme
- 170 Ave Jean Jaurès (the road along the southeast edge of the old town, by the long parking area)
- Tel: (33) 490 63 00 78, (33) 490 63 57 88
- Fax: (33) 490 60 41 02
- Open: Mon-Fri 9h-12h30, 14h-18h30; Sat 9h-12h, 14h-18h.
- The OT has a free leaflet with details of all the town's hotels and restaurants, including a small map.
Transportation
- Air.
- Airport Nîmes-Garons (70 km)
- Airport Marseilles-Marignane (100 km)
- Airport Avignon (25 km)
- Carpentras airfield - private planes
- Rail. There is no train service; railway line comes into Carpentras, but there's no more passenger service. There are large freight yards at the edge of town, but even the freight service is just about finished. The nearest train stations are:
- Gare d'Avignon (25 km)
- Gare de Cavaillon (27 km) * bus service
- Gare d'Orange (25 km)
- A Carpentras-Cavaillon bus service is included in the SNCF timetable "Guide Régional des Transports", available at most train stations.
- Bus. Two bus companies provide service to surrounding towns. The Arnaud company has 4 or 5 buses a day between Carpentras and Cavaillon (45 minutes); this bus route is Carpentras, Pernes, Velleron, Le Thor, Grangette, St Antoine, L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Cavaillon, Orgon, Sénas, Pont-Royal, Lambesc, St Cannat, Aix-en-Provence, Marseille.
- Cars Arnaud Buses
- 8, Ave Victor-Hugo
- Tel: (33) 490 63 01 82
- Cars Comtadins
- 38, Ave Wilson
- Tel: (33) 490 67 20 25
Gastronomy
There are several good restaurants in the center of Carpentras, including a couple with Provencal cooking. The Office de Tourisme brochure lists the restaurants and their specialties. We tried L'Atelier on Rue des Halles, and were not disappointed: nice decor, good service and excellent food.
The Fruits Confits Clavel shop on Rue Porte d'Orange has the most amazing candy creations we've seen anywhere. Their specialty is "berlingot", a hard caramel candy. The front window is full of creations, from a tall Ariane rocket to a cogged-wheel assembly for a mill. Other creations depict foods, plants, people and complex scenes. The shop owner, who's the personal creator of everything, has the 1992 Guinness world record for the largest berlingot creation, weighing 56 kg. A couple of other delicious looking candies were the truffes au Grand Marnier and truffes au calva (for Calvados).
Playground
There's a playground, with all the proper equipment, just outside Ave Jean Juarès and the Allée des Platans (that's the long parking are on the southeast, beside the Office de Tourisme). The playground is down at the right-hand end, by the tennis courts.
There's a lovely long park just outside the center on the north side of town (walk out Ave Notre Dame de Santé from the Porte d'Orange). The park follows along the river, with a nice walking path beneath the trees. Small footbridges cross the river, one of them being a real fallen-tree bridge.
- Swimming Pools (Piscines)
- Municipal swimming pool
- Heated, covered pool
- Tel: (33) 490 60 92 03
- Open: year-round, every day (closed to public on Thur)
Wine
Apt is in the region of the Rhône Valley Côtes de Ventoux wines.
Camping
- Hiking
- Maps:
- IGN "bleue" (1:25,000) 3040 ET "Carpentras"
- Didier Richard (1:50,000) #27 "Ventoux"
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The area around Carpentras is heavily populated, with just about all land filled with farms, vineyards and orchards. Six km south, at Pernes-les-Fontaines, a trail leads into the foothills of the Plateau de Vaucluse. The GR91 (Grande Randonnée) passes along the edge of the Plateau de Vaucluse at Villes-sur-Auzon, 15 km to the east.
Lodging Listing available
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