Sixteen peaks within the park's boundaries, along the Tennessee- North Carolina border, soar above 6,000 feet. Park rangers are fond of saying that the short drive from Gatlinburg to Clingman's Dome, the highest of the Smoky peaks, is the equivalent of a drive from Tennessee to northern Canada in terms of vegetation. That means color in glorious abundance.

Most Smokies visitors find entertainment and overnight accommodations in one of the five major resort towns surrounding the park - Gatlinburg, Pigeon Forge and Townsend, Tenn.; and Cherokee and Fontana Village, N.C. Each has its own flavor and atmosphere.

No matter which you use as a base, make lodging reservations well in advance because of the heavy demand for rooms during October.

Local chambers of commerce and convention and visitors bureaus often can assist in locating accommodations, and four of the five have toll- free telephone numbers: Gatlinburg, 800-822-1998; Pigeon Forge, 800-251- 9100; Townsend (Smoky Mountain Visitors Bureau), 800-525-6834; and Fontana Village, 800-849-2258.

For Cherokee information, call 704-497-9195. For Great Smoky Mountains National Park information, call 615-436-1200.

Gatlinburg, Tenn.
Long-recognized as the primary Smoky Mountain resort town, Gatlinburg nestles against the park boundary. While the traditional souvenir, fudge, candle and T-shirt shops still thrive, Gatlinburg has made a valiant effort to improve its image. A trolley system has removed some of the traffic from the main street.

A fire July 14 destroyed most of one city block on Gatlinburg's main street, but only a few businesses were involved and several already have reopened.

Like most resort towns, Gatlinburg offers various attractions and diversions, ranging from the venerable Christus Gardens, with life-size dioramas of the life of Jesus, to the original musical comedy of the Sweet Fanny Adams Theater.

Gatlinburg is especially popular with older travelers and families with older children. Sidewalk strolls are a primary pastime. If you enjoy bustling activity, bright lights and people-watching, Gatlinburg is your kind of place.

Pigeon Forge, Tenn.
Just five miles from Gatlinburg, Pigeon Forge is strikingly different. In contrast to Gatlinburg, where everyone walks, Pigeon Forge is a vehicle town. Both sides of the main drag (U.S. 441) are lined with shops, shopping malls and attractions.

Dolly Parton's Dollywood theme park, on U.S. 441 one mile east of Pigeon Forge, is the town's biggest tourist attraction. While Dollywood contains its share of thrill rides, the primary emphasis is on crafts and music. It is open daily except Wednesdays and Thursdays in September; daily except Thursdays in October; and on a limited basis Nov. 13 to Jan. 3 (call 800-365-5996).

Pigeon Forge also has water parks, wave pools, bumper boats, Go Kart tracks and other family-style activities, including Flyaway, something akin to indoor skydiving. Many are open all year.

Pigeon Forge primarily appeals to families with younger children. Adults can choose from several malls with more than 150 outlet and discount shops.

Townsend, Tenn.
While the pace in Townsend is considerably slower than in Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge, it offers a lot to do.

The community's pride is a heavily used three-mile paved walking and bicycling trail that parallels U.S. 321 from one end of Townsend to the other. It's a good place to meet and talk with fellow visitors, work up an appetite for breakfast or lunch at one of several restaurants along the trail, or just to enjoy the fresh air and spectacular mountain setting.

For the more adventurous, the Cades Cove and Davy Crockett riding stables offer guided horseback trips into the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The stable at Cades Cove Visitor Center also offers hay- wagon rides through what is arguably the most beautiful part of the park. Reservations are required.

Townsend's best-known attraction is the Smoky Mountain Passion Play, a drama based on the life of Christ. It is presented on weekends through October in an outdoor amphitheater.

Townsend also is the location of Tuckaleechee Caverns under the mountains. Guided tours are available.

Before the Great Smoky Mountains Park was established in the 1930s, Townsend was a logging town. Its early history is detailed at the Little River Railroad and Lumber Co. Museum, which features a restored vintage Shay locomotive.

The studio and gallery of noted Smoky Mountain artist Lee Roberson - housed in a 150-year-old log cabin just off Wears Valley Road, which connects Townsend and Pigeon Forge - is also worth a visit. Mr. Roberson's work focuses on the many moods and scenes of the Smokies.

Cherokee, N.C.
The primary North Carolina entrance to the national park, Cherokee is also the historical center of the Smokies.

Home to the Eastern band of the Cherokee Indians, the town is a part of the Qualla Boundary Cherokee Indian Reservation, which has done nothing to prevent the resort town of Cherokee from acquiring the same resort atmosphere as its non-Native American cousins.

There is, however, a somewhat different flavor to the usual tourist clutter. Half a dozen Indian chiefs, for example, pose for photographers.

For a more authentic view of Cherokee life, culture and history, visit the Museum of the Cherokee Indian and Craft Center, with its impressive exhibits of crafts, clothing, weapons and culture. It's open year-round.

The Oconaluftee Indian Village, a living history facility open through Oct. 25, is a good place to observe the Cherokee lifestyle before the "removal" of most of the Cherokee Nation to the distant Oklahoma Territory in the 1830s via the infamous Trail of Tears.

Fontana Village, N.C.
The 31-mile-long Fontana Reservoir, created by the tallest dam in the eastern United States, offers excellent lake fishing and various water sports and recreation. On warm fall days, hardy visitors still water-ski and use jet skis, with equipment available for rentals. Others cruise the lake in houseboats and fishing boats, also available for rental.

In addition to lake fishing, fly-fishing enthusiasts enjoy dozens of outstanding trout streams. Whitewater rafting fans try the sport on the nearby Nantahala River through November.

The outstanding Fontana Village Resort also provides activities for its guests year-round, ranging from horseback rides and guided nature hikes to supervised recreational programs for children and crafts instruction for adults.

Year-round facilities include tennis and volleyball courts, swimming pools (indoor for winter, outdoor for summer), playgrounds and a miniature golf course. Special programs throughout the year include lectures, nature programs and square dances.

The resort also has a museum housed in an original 1875 building. It details the Native American, mining and logging history of the area, along with exhibits concerning the construction on Fontana Dam, which was begun in 1942.