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Highlands just right for rambling, resting
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With cold water splashing my face, I scrambled on all fours to the slick, mossy rocks at the base of Panther Creek Falls. Turning around carefully, I plopped down to watch my arms and legs erupt with 2-inch-high goose bumps as the stream hit my back. "Scoot back!" urged my husband, who had just undergone a metamorphosis from sweat-soaked hiker to frolicking amphibian. I smiled inwardly, but kept blue lips pressed together to prevent any screams from emerging that might discourage nearby, landlubbing hikers from joining us. "Watch this!" my intrepid spouse shouted as he clambered to the right side of the falls and disappeared under a powerful cataract of foaming water. When he emerged, he waved, smiled and flung water from his hair like a spaniel. Afterward, he described the experience as "having five fire hoses hitting you at once." More than content after having been engulfed by a far lesser torrent, I decided to forgo this more intense experience, and we struggled through rushing, waist-high water to shore to enjoy a creek- side picnic. Immersion in freezing water is only one of several attractions awaiting those who spend a weekend exploring the many hiking trails in and around Habersham and Rabun counties, a two-hour drive north of Atlanta. You can choose from Lake Rabun and trails through the Rabun Beach Recreation Area, the Panther Creek Trail or the rim trail around Tallulah Gorge. All offer an appealing way to relax in the woods with varying degrees of relief from Atlanta's summertime heat. The Panther Creek Trail is one of the most popular and pleasant in North Georgia, partly because the climbing involved is minimal compared to that on other mountain trails and partly because of the lush scenery lining the path to the spectacular falls. The trail begins about six miles north of Clarkesville along old U.S. 441, across the highway from the sign for the Panther Creek Recreation Area, and ends 5 1/2 miles later at Yonah Dam. Most people head to the top of the falls, a 3 1/2- mile walk, and then turn back. Tom Hawks, U.S. Forest Service ranger for the Chattooga District, says the trail isn't suitable for children younger than 10 "unless their parents keep an unusually close watch on them." He advises visitors "to exercise extreme caution" because of slick rocks, overhanging rocks and sudden drop-offs. Despite the hazards, the rewards are great. In spring, the first mile of the trail blooms with one of Georgia's rarest wildflowers, pink and green Gay Wing, or Bird-on-the-Wing, as many people call it. In early summer, rhododendrons offer a riot of color, thick foliage provides shade from the summer sun and the scent of moist pine needles pervades the air. The hike becomes more enjoyable after the first quarter-mile, once you pass out of earshot of a four-lane section of U.S. 441 that crosses the beginning of the trail. Roots and rocks quilt the ground in spots, slowing the pace. Trees and rhododendrons hug the trail so tightly that it's difficult to find much of a view, but in places you can see Panther Creek pounding the rocks far below. Even if there are other people on the trail, the curving, up-and-down path gives the impression of solitude. After the first wooden bridge, at mile 1.4, the terrain flattens out, and the walk becomes street-easy for a time as the trail follows close beside Panther Creek. Ferns border the path and the sound of rushing water cools the imagination, portending pleasant sensations to come. The steep series of rapids at mile 2.3 easily might be mistaken for the actual falls, which are about a mile farther downstream. The slowest going comes between the rapids and the falls as the trail snakes its way up cliff faces and across a stream, where three logs function as a makeshift bridge. Where the trail-side drops become precipitous, a thick, wire hand cable has been provided to reassure the apprehensive hiker. But not all the cables are reliable, as the Forest Service signs indicate, so be careful and stick to the inside of the trail. After reaching the crest of the falls, the narrowing trail descends in switchbacks to a sandy beach at their base. The level ground provides a pleasant spot to eat lunch, with the falls in full view. Those seeking more privacy should head downstream, where they can choose any of numerous large boulders for their picnicking spot. While the sandy beach is a popular camping spot, those seeking more luxurious overnight accommodations should enjoy the Glen-Ella Springs Inn, about three miles from the Panther Creek trail head on Bear Gap Road. Nestled on 17 acres of woods, meadows and gardens, the 16-room inn housed its first customers in 1895, closed as a guest house in the 1920s, and then reopened in a renovated, rustic form in 1987 under the ownership of transplanted Decatur residents Bobby and Barrie Aycock. The air-conditioned rooms feature antiques, handicrafts and private bathrooms. You won't hear the drone of televisions because there aren't any: The dominant sound at night is the crickets' song. Glen-Ella has no volleyball nets or shuffleboard facilities, no tennis courts or croquet course. The most strenuous activities are relaxing in large rockers that dot the wide porches on every floor, swimming in the pool or sunning on the surrounding wooden deck. A few steps from the deck are attractive gardens of vegetables, flowers and herbs, perfect for wandering and gathering gardening ideas. Expect to spend about $50 for two in the Glen-Ella Springs dining room. Offerings include several surf and turf delights, some with a Cajun flair, including a tasty, filling gumbo. Trout is a speciality. If you want wine or spirits with dinner, you'll need to bring them with you. After eating a more than adequate dinner, you'll have just enough energy to make it to the rocker outside your room, prop your feet on the rail and watch the lightning bugs flicker on and off in woods below.
Getting there
If you want more exercise To reach the Angel Falls Trail, follow U.S. 441 about 1 1/2 miles north of the city of Tallulah Falls and turn left at the Rabun Beach sign. Stay on this road for 2 1/2 miles, then turn left at a three-way intersection and go 4.7 miles until you see the signs for the Rabun Beach Campground. Tallulah Gorge North Rim Trail is a level, 1 1/4-mile hike suitable for all ages. Georgia Power's Terrora Visitors Center, across U.S. 441 from the trail, has restaurant facilities, exhibits on Tallulah Dam, wildlife displays and an interactive, walk-through program showing seasons of the year in the park. To reach the Terrora Visitors Center and north rim trail, take U.S. 441 north to Tallulah Falls, where signs lead you to the visitors center, immediately after you cross the Tallulah Falls bridge. The center is on the left, and the trail is on the right side of the highway.
Leave the high heels at home
Staying in style To reach Glen-Ella Springs Inn, follow U.S. 441 north from U.S. 23/Ga. 365 to Turnerville. At Turnerville, turn left on G. Hardman Road. Go one block and make a right on Historic Old 441, go one-quarter mile, turn left on Orchard Road and follow the signs 3 1/2 miles to the inn. 706-754-7295. Other lodging suggestions: In Clarkesville, try the Burns Sutton House, a bed-and-breakfast. 706-754-5565. Visitors may camp anywhere in the Chattahoochee National Forest around Clarkesville, but must stay 50 feet from trails and streams. Fires are allowed. (This information was current at the time of publication, but hours and prices may have changed. It's always a good idea to call before you travel.)
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