There are two ways to teach pointing dogs to retrieve: play training and force training. The obvious knee-jerk reaction is that play training must be the better method. Why force a dog to learn if you can achieve the same goal through play?

First of all, some pointing dogs (mine, for instance) simply have no natural desire to retrieve that can be brought out through making a game of throwing sticks and dummies. If these dogs are to retrieve at all, they must be force trained. Second, a dog that is play trained will want to break and chase flushing birds, so he'll be difficult to steady to wing and shot later on. Finally, a force-trained dog will retrieve reliably, every time, because he's been taught to think of retrieving as a job, not a game. The amount of force required in force training is actually minimal. Perhaps it's more accurate to think of "force training" as "learned retrieving."

Teaching "Fetch," "Hold," and "Give"

To begin force training, put the dummy in the dog's mouth, and "fetch" or "hold it." To make the dog open his mouth, it's often necessary to push the skin of his lips against his lower molars. When his mouth opens you can pop the dummy in.

With your hand under the dog's chin, hold the dummy in his mouth with your thumb so he can't spit it out while commanding "hold." Then, say "give" and release your thumb. The dog will probably let the dummy fall out of his mouth. If he hangs on, don't pull, but push the dummy deeper into the back of his mouth to make him release it.

After the dog will take the dummy, hold it, and give it back, you're ready to make him reach for it. Put the dummy against his front teeth and command "fetch." If he won't reach forward and take the dummy, this is where the "force" part of force training comes in. Slip your hand under his collar, take his ear between your thumbnail and fingernail, and pinch. When the dog opens his mouth to protest, put the dummy in, saying "fetch." Stop pinching immediately as soon as the dummy is in his mouth and begin praising. Dogs are very quick to learn how to avoid pain, so even if you dislike pinching your dog's ear as much as I do, you shouldn't have to do it very many times. Hold the dummy a few inches away from his mouth, gradually increasing the distance to a foot or two so he has to reach out to take it from your hand. Use the ear pinch as a reminder if necessary.

Getting your dog to pick up something on the ground is, for reasons known only to dogs, much more difficult than getting him to take something from your hand. You can pull a dog's head to the ground by standing on the middle of a leash and pulling up, then using an ear pinch. However, I've had better luck patiently coaxing my dog to reach down by simply holding the dummy a little lower to the ground each time. Some trainers like to set a dummy on four short wooden pegs--sort of like four golf tees--as the final step before actually putting it on the ground.

Retrieving

Once the dog will pick the dummy up off the ground you can begin practicing short retrieves. In the early phases keep the dog on a check cord so you can reel him back in if he wants to run off with the dummy. Sit him down, move a few yards away, and throw the dummy straight up in the air, clapping loudly once to simulate a gunshot. Command "fetch" after the dummy hits the ground. Once you've taught the dog that sequence, you'll be well on the way to steadying him to wing and shot.

At this point, you can make a game of retrieving, asking the dog to pick things up and bring them to you--shoes, slippers, anything that falls on the floor. You can move up to birds, now, too.

Training Table

Much of the early work of force training can be done on a training table. All you need is a platform high enough to let you work with the dog without bending over. A picnic table will do, but many people prefer to build their own table with a ramp up either side for the dog to climb. At first, you'll have to lead your dog onto the table, but after a few training sessions he'll jump up eagerly.

There are two advantages to using a table, one psychological, the other physical: a dog up off the ground will be less in his element, more focused on the trainer and receptive to commands. Also--and this is no small thing when teaching the retrieve--it saves you bending over to the dog's level, which is very good news for your back.