The Do's and Don'ts
Of Electronic Training Collars

by Philip Bourjaily

What you first notice when you start shopping for an electronic shock collar is the price. The idea of spending from $200 to $900 or more on a dog training aid is enough to make most amateurs think long and hard. That's good, because no one should buy a remote trainer lightly. Shock collars are not a training shortcut, but a serious tool which, if used incorrectly, can ruin a dog.

On the other hand, with intelligent use, a remote trainer can solve problems no other method can. My German shorthair Sam came to me as a one-year-old dog with a full complement of bad habits. He was perfectly obedient in the yard, but in the field he would suddenly streak for the far horizons without warning and disappear--for 30 minutes or an hour, once overnight.

I used to spend more time in the field looking for Sam than I did looking for birds. My neighbors automatically brought me any stray dog they found, assuming if a dog was lost, it must be one of mine.

I tried a check cord. I tried hanging rubber balls from Sam's collar to slow him down. I hunted him with older, slower dogs. I whistled. I screamed. Nothing worked. Finally, I gritted my teeth, wrote out a check for $200, and bought a shock collar. In a very short time, Sam became a new dog. He came when called, hunted in range, and quartered to the whistle like a metronome.

Shock collars deliver a preselected impulse of electricity to the dog's neck via metal contact points in the collar when you push a button on the transmitter. The effect ranges from a mild tingle to a jolt similar to touching an electric fence (I've tried it on myself).

Two kinds of training are possible with a shock collar: punishment training and avoidance training.

Punishment training simulates the way dogs learn things naturally. For instance, Sam learned not to chase cars when a speeding Buick clipped him a glancing blow one day. Punishment training allows you to duplicate such an experience safely, by shocking a dog when he sees passing cars, poisonous snakes, porcupines, whatever. He then associates them with the shock, and steers clear of danger in the future.

Avoidance training motivates positive behavior in dogs by teaching them to perform a command and avoid a shock. Timing is important here. You give the command, then shock the dog before he has time to react. Soon (often after only one shock) he'll learn that by doing what you ask, he avoids punishment.

If you decide to buy a shock collar, here are some do's and don'ts for amateur trainers:

  • A collar is not a substitute for basic obedience training.

  • Don't begin training with a shock collar until your dog is thoroughly accustomed to yard work.

  • After yard work without the collar, begin training first with a dummy collar, then by using the active collar in a controlled yard work environment so your dog can become accustomed to electronic training and you can learn how he reacts. Taking a dog out and trying to correct bad habits with a shock collar right away can backfire.

  • Remember that praise counts for more than punishment in dog training; shock collars can only punish--you have to supply the praise.

  • Dogs are quick to recognize patterns. If they know they're only shocked when they're wearing the collar, they'll adjust their behavior. Use a dummy collar so the dog doesn't learn collar shyness. If he makes the same number of mistakes with either collar on, you'll know he doesn't associate it with the collar.

  • Don't leave the collar on the dog when he's unattended. They've been known to shock accidentally.

  • With a shock collar, as with all dog training, never give commands you can't or won't enforce. For instance, I trained Sam in a hilly field which often held wild pheasants. If he disappeared over a rise, I wouldn't whistle until I can see him again, because for all I knew he didn't come because he'd found a bird. Shocking a dog on point is a quick way to ruin a bird dog.

  • Never point the transmitter at the dog when you give a correction or he'll learn to associate that gesture with the pain. If the shock comes as a bolt from the blue, the dog won't associate you with any punishment he receives. Your bond is much stronger as a result.

  • It takes a certain amount of maturity to use a shock collar. If you shock a dog because you're angry at him, or because you think it's fun, you shouldn't have a shock collar. You probably don't deserve the dog either. You'll find, however, that you as a trainer will become much more relaxed and even-tempered when you know you can correct your dog immediately, no matter how far away he may be.

  • Choose the level of intensity carefully. If the dog freezes or yelps, the collar is too hot. If he doesn't react at all, the shock isn't strong enough.

    Copyright (c) 1996 Philip Bourjaily. All rights reserved.

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