Getting Started in Saltwater Fly Fishing

by Jerry Gibbs

Saltwater fly fishing has gone ballistic. In five years the changes have come so quickly that even those living the sport full time have been running to keep up with advances in both equipment and methods. From pollack and flounder to tuna and marlin, few species are now off limits to fly fishers. The sport is growing rapidly along our coasts away from traditional warmwater areas of Florida, Texas, and Baja. No wonder.

Intense, exciting, just sheer fun, saltwater fly fishing can be enjoyed at many levels. Sleek specialized backcountry boats access once unreachable fish-rich waters. On foot, fly fishers pursue a smorgasbord of species including spotted sea trout, weakfish, flounder, pollack, striped bass, bluefish, bonito, little tunny, small tarpon, redfish and a potpourri of what I call saltwater panfish. Shorebound anglers find their full and varied fishing in the surf, from jetties, piers, high banks, rocky shores, points, river mouths, tidal creeks, canals, and coves. Off shore, yellowfin and bluefin tuna, yellowtail jacks, wahoo, are becoming coveted quarry for big-game fly fishers who once targeted billfish only.

The 20-pound-test tippet class established by the International Game Fish Association in 1991, has lead to ever bigger fish and powerful new rods designed for lifting 16, 18, 20 (even 24 and 30) pounds of dead weight to lever giant fish to the surface. We already had the reels with capacity and drag enough to handle the job. It's possible that we'll now see catches topping 300 pounds on specialized fly equipment. Sound incredible? Not when you consider catches like the 908-pound tiger shark, 1,051-pound Pacific black marlin, 1,068-pound white shark that have been made on 20-pound test conventional tackle, and the blue marlin of 260 pounds that has already fallen to the 20-pound fly tippet.

Fly fishing salt water has become more effective and easier. Both equipment advances and improvements in fishing technique are responsible. Until quite recently, the seeming complexity of building line-leader systems with the myriad knots involved was off-putting to many. Now you can obtain complete pre-rigged systems or replace any section that breaks, is worn, or needs switching for different fishing demands (see Right Connections sidebar at end of article).

Lines

New specialty lines have evolved (see Line Applications sidebar at end of article). There are formulations that help increase distance, especially in hot climates, lines that float higher or sink faster. Some concepts of interest include the mini-sink-tips with just four or five feet of fast sinking section followed by floating taper; the clear-tip lines with 10 feet of slow sinking Monocore tip followed by a floating taper; the new Wind Master line that allows you to cast a good size fly during conditions when you╒d formerly have stayed home.

Anglers who use heavier-weight saltwater rods for the first time often find it advantageous to rig with a line one size heavier than the rod calls for: a No. 12 line on a rod designed 11-weight lines. The result is easier rod loading with less line out, and easier casting over a long session. You won╒t, however, be able to hold as much line in the air. The ability to throw a big fly, however, is still there. Rods for 12- and 13-weight lines have traditionally been quite stiff, designed for casting to tarpon or other large fish only when the fish is sighted, rather than continuous casting, say for big stripers. Happily the actions of some of the newer design 12-weight rods are easier on anglers.

Flies

New fly patterns have evolved which key on prevalent bait species from crustaceans to forage fish. These flies address vital elements of profile, density, action, sink rate, and of course come in various colors. Epoxy heads and bodies, bead chain and lead eyes coupled with amount and type of material all regulate the angle and speed at which a fly sinks. Aggressive and large fish are often pleased with flies built with a generous amount of material producing a large silhouette. Surface-oriented flies often rely on ample water-disturbing dressing to attract fish from distance. Low visibility--either the water itself or low light conditions--often dictate use of a larger, denser fly. But when visibility soars, just the opposite can be true. I've taken skittish bonefish on flies that were nothing more than a body wrap of monofilament with a couple strands of short Mylar fluttering as a wing. Captain Jeff Northrop often uses the deadly Clouser Deep Minnow around Long Island Sound's Norwalk Islands for stripers and blues. His comment: "If you can't easily see through the fly, there' s too much material in the dressing."

You don't have to tie your own. Specialized bait patterns like Bob Popovics Candy patterns, foam Banger poppers, and others are distributed to dealers by Umpqua Feather Merchants; Chris Mihulka and Jack Montague's epoxy flies come from McKenzie Flies, while Rick Ruoff's Backcountry Fly, Lay-Up Tarpon Fly, and Backcountry Bonefish Fly, as well as Del Brown's yarn Permit Fly (more later on this) are available directly from Orvis. West Bank Anglers is carrying some of Bob Popovics unique patterns also.

Another interesting fly innovation is Umpqua's Duple-Kits. Each kit contains materials to tie a number of one specific pattern. Lefty's Deceiver, Clouser's Deep Minnow, Popovic's Banger and the Crazy Charlie bonefish fly are now available.

Techniques

We've come a long way from the days when hard-core striped bass surf casters would look askance at an angler flinging a fly between the breakers and growl, "There ain't no trout out there, buddy." A friend counted 30 fly fishers working just a short stretch of beach one recent fall day in southern New Jersey. Fly fishers now line the beaches of Martha╒s Vineyard summer and fall. Books have and will be written detailing techniques for individual species, but a few newer tactics and fine tuning of now standard techniques are worth mentioning.

Freshwater anglers expert in reading their depth sounders are learning that using sonar to locate structure and fish concentrations works in salt water as it does in fresh. Friend Vin Sparano and I found some very cooperative bluefish that way just before Thanksgiving. Aboard Captain Gene Berger's "On a Fly" we used 500-, 700-, and 850-grain fast-sinking heads backed by monofilament shooting line to get down and drift in winds that had pushed the seas into a pretty sloppy state. We worked in 40 feet of water that suddenly humped up to 20 feet and a little shallower, slow-stripping big white saddle-hackle streamers. Many of the bluefish jumped vigorously despite the cold water. But Captain Gene is building his reputation earlier in the year, 20-40 miles off shore fly fishing for bluefin tuna, and on occasion even farther off the Atlantic coast canyon fishing for yellowfin, dolphinfish, and whatever else comes. One client took a record albacore (long fin tuna) on a fly while tuna fishing recently. But back in coves, bays, or up tidal rivers, subtle bottom changes--knobs, points, holes, channels--can be the kind of fish magnets that they are in sweet water.

Chumming with fish chunks doesn't sound glamorous to fly fishers who specialize in stalking fish in the clear shallows, but it brings fish that will nearly turn you inside out. The trick is to cast a fly that mimics the chunks in size and drift which means the right weight in the pattern itself or the right density line or sink-tip head. The real trick once the fish shoulder up into the slick is to slow down on chunking. Tuna and other off-shore fish go wild for a white Deceiver streamer cast into the feeding lane.

Bluefish respond in much the same way and are duped by a fluffy marabou chum fly. In the South, anglers combine chum with a few free-swimming live pilchards dropped over reefs and wrecks. The bait fish dive for the bottom but soon come screaming back bringing all manner of great game fish with them. Keeping a large bait fish near the boat tethered from a rod is another way to tease up large game fish for near-surface fly action, as is casting a hookless chugger or popper. Some anglers like short rods, others long rods for teasing chores. The key is to tease long enough to really excite the quarry. You'll know. Many fish light up brilliantly, others just go bonkers. This is a good way to attract barracuda over wrecks, too, but it's not the only way for 'cuda.

We used to think that a long, slim fly and two-handed retrieve with the rod under one arm, was the only way to consistently tempt big barracuda on a fly. After teasing enough of these fish with poppers I finally got the message and now have frequent success with those surface rippers retrieved at a steady pace--not stop and go.

The other method is for clear, shallow water and visible fish. If you've ever had a fish rush your fly as you began picking it up for a back cast you have the idea. As far as I know, Lefty Kreh was first to expand the "last-minute rush" into a retrieve method I call streaking. The trick is to move in fairly close, cast a streamer (it doesn't have to be an ultra-long so-called 'cuda pattern) ahead of the fish, immediately take out all line slack while keeping a low rod tip, then come back in a pickup cast. The fly speeds--streaks--ahead and disappears. Do that over again several times and the barracuda will often be frantic enough so that on the final presentation when you leave the fly in and begin a normal fast strip back, he'll pounce like a mad dog. It works on big northern pike, too. Streamers in fluorescent green or orange are best.

Lefty is also responsible for proving the effectiveness of bright orange streamers on sharks in shallow water. Over the years, 90 percent of all my fly rod sharks have come on white or white/red feather combinations with a little flash, but orange may be shaping up as even more consistent on the flats. In offshore chumming situations I still prefer white. Like redfish, sharks do not have terrific vision. It's important to present your fly close where they can immediately see it (remember to lead them), without hitting them on the head. Unlike barracuda, you'll want a slow, steady retrieve for sharks.

If you're getting the idea that retrieve variation is important in saltwater fly fishing, you're right. It's critical and must simulate natural forage in typical feeding situations for the target species. Along with some new fly designs, the right retrieve is responsible for increased catches of permit--one of the most difficult fly fish in shallow water. The heart of the retrieve is reacting when a sighted permit has obviously become aware of your stripped fly. At that point you stop. The fly drops to the bottom where you leave it. If sufficiently intrigued, the fish will rush in, tip and bang his blunt snout to the bottom to grab the imitation. When you think he has it, strip the line to strike rather than raising the rod. That way the fly will still be close, offering the fish another chance at it if he missed or passed on his first opportunity.

Del Brown who has caught more permit on a fly than anyone, improved on a yarn crab imitation that enhances this retrieve and seems the best fly yet for these fish. When you stop the strip, this fly glides on an angle to the bottom like the real thing. The fly sits with feather-claw imitations up in the natural position (lead eyes at the opposite end produce the effect). The imitation is also easier to cast than many heavier epoxy patterns.

In general, bottom species require a slow retrieve. Poppers and sliders on the surface (even streamers just under) can require a two-handed, fast retrieve for some species (if they're in the mood for it). Fast- moving water calls for a fly that looks to be struggling against the current. At night, work your fly slower. The key is to vary your retrieve until you find what the fish want.

Tides

While currents are important to freshwater anglers--even in lakes--saltwater fishermen have the added vital factor of tides with which to contend. In shallow water virtually all saltwater fish like to feed into a tide or wind-driven current, but will swim around with it, around bars, holes, edges of rips, moving as the water drops. Sometimes only a short period of a tide is good in one spot. At full low tide it will pay to learn depressions, cuts, and other configurations of an area to know where fish are likely to move, hunt food, and even hold for a time.

Saltwater fly fishing can be so many things. Up the California coast you can plumb the depths for rockfish, or work barred perch from the beach; maybe you'll target the line-burning sailfish off Central America, or play a cat-and-mouse game with reds and trout off Texas. There are 100-pound tarpon to wreck you off the Florida Keys, or ghostly bonefish if you want a little less violence. You can work the swirling surf for stripers in the northeast, tangle with school mackerel for lighter sport, or try the back-bending game of winching up a sounding tuna. The sport's pioneers have shown the way, tackle makers have made it easier, and now it's up to you.

Sidebar: Right Connections

Fly Line/Backing

Method 1: Interlocking loops. Form your own as follows: Loop in backing formed by a Bimini twist. Loop at back end (reel end) of the fly line made by folding the line back on itself. Secure the loop by nail knotting two pieces of 8- or 10-pound-test monofilament next to one another (5-7 turns) around tag and standing line. Loop at fly line tip is made the same way but as small as possible, secured as above, but by only one monofilament nail knot (9 turns). Coat nail knots with Goop. Features: extremely strong. Method results in rigid connection of line tip to leader for best energy transfer.

Method 2: Pre-formed loops (e.g., Orvis). Follow instructions that come with product. Loops may be used on back and tip ends of fly line. Features: fast, easy, no knots involved. Unless cemented in place, loops may be removed, used on other lines. Somewhat larger loop at tip end than handmade (method 1) results in somewhat more flexible connection to leader.

Leader

Method 1: Tie uni-knot (Duncan loop) or surgeon's loop in both ends of heavy mono (25- to 40-pound-test) butt section. Interlock one loop with fly line loop, the other with remaining leader: standard easy-tie saltwater leader consists of lighter (class) tippet plus (where needed) heavy mono shock /abrasion tippet. To assemble, tie loops using a Bimini twist, at both ends of a piece of monofilament that will end up being the class tippet. If no shock tippet will be used, tie the Bimini in one end only. Double one of the loops formed by the Bimini over on itself close to the Bimini twist knot, to make a double strand loop, and tie it in place using a uni-knot or surgeon's knot. If a shock/abrasion tippet is to be used, the Bimini loop in the other end of the class tippet section is tied to the heavy monofilament using a Huffnagle, Albright, three-turn shock clinch, or surgeon's knot. Features: strong. Fast leader-fly changing, especially when class and shock tippet sections have been pre-tied, connected, then tied to flies and arranged in special tension (stretch) holding devices.

Method 2: Pre-tied knotted leaders. Available through Umpqua Feather Merchants; McKenzie Flies; Orvis; Rio; Blackledge River Co. plus specialty fly fishing mail-order companies. These can be looped directly to fly line tip after surgeon or uni-knot loop is formed in the leader's butt end (some come with pre-tied butt loops). Features: Compound designs tapered with appropriate materials and tests for specific fish species. Shock tippets are tied on where appropriate for target fish species. Features: tapers usually formed by blood knots. Excellent energy transfer for good fly turnover and presentation. Avoids necessity of tying knots.

Method 3: Knotless tapered leaders. Available from many fly fishing retail outlets. Tie uni-knot, perfection or surgeon loop at butt end, interlock with fly line tip loop unless butt end seems overly flexible. Features: lack of knots results in fewer weeds picked up. Usually available in a large selection of sizes. Butt sections rarely as heavy as pre-tied knotted (compound) leader butts. Shock tippet option normally not available.

Tippet to Fly

Light tippet points can be connected to the fly with your favorite knot (including a loop type knot). Heavy shock tippets should be tied to fly using a loop knot: uni-knot (Duncan loop); two-wrap hangman's knot; non-slip mono loop, or Homer Rhode knot.

Wire Bite Tippets

For sharp-toothed fish. Cable (braided) or single-strand material are options. Lengths are normally 4, 6, and 8 inches for most fish species, though some use lengths of 12 inches (between knots) for sharks. Cable comes coated or noncoated, is quite flexible. Cable can be knotted to fly using uni-knot, figure eight, or Homer Rhode knot. Coating on some cable (e.g., Berkley) can be melted with a lighter after being twisted to form a connection. Nylon coatings on cable can be shredded by teeth, making leader more visible. Teeth of big fish can saw through individual strands over protracted fights. Material is still stronger than heavy mono and very easy to work with. Single strand is connected to fly with a haywire twist. Features: very strong unless kinked, less flexible than cable, cuts through water quickly. Orvis now provides 4- and 8-inch Pre-Looped Bite Guards of single strand. A small, pre-formed eye loop in one end makes connection to leader easy. Other end is attached to fly with standard haywire twist. For do-it-yourself anglers, looped section of class tippet is normally fastened to wire bite tippets using an Albright knot. First, a haywire loop is formed in the back end of the bite tippet then pinched to form a narrow loop using pliers.

Sidebar: Line Applications

LINE TYPES

Floating: poppers, sliders on the surface, sinking flies in relatively shallow, fairly calm water. Not for use in most shore, rock, jetty fishing situations where it is impacted by currents, waves, wind.

Intermediate, Slow Sink: Best overall for near-surface fishing (also when fishing weighted flies several feet deep). Far less affected by wind, wave action. Specialty formulations like Tarpon/Bonefish Tapers of coated, hard mono braid (come in floating formulations, too) are not made limp by intense sun, shoot extremely well. Clear Monocore, somewhat more flexible, is ideal for cautious fish in very clear water.

Sink Tip, Full Sink: Come in various formulations for different sink rates. Full sinking lines keep flies at depth longer over the retrieve. Choose those which sink tip first. Sink tips come in 10-, 13-, 20-, 30-foot sink sections, the remaining line floats. Good to get flies down quickly on specific targets. Loops can be thrown in floating section to slightly alter retrieve path (depending on depth), and with 10- and 13-foot sink tips, less line needs to be retrieved before pick-up for another cast.

Mini-Sink-Tips: With just four-five feet of very fast sink tip, the minis are the choice when you need to get a fly under the surface fast, but keep it just a few feet deep. Pick-up for cast is easy. A very valuable line.

Shooting Heads: Come in floating and various sink-rate formulations. Typically are 30-40-feet long with loops on both ends allowing you to quickly switch heads to match conditions. Heads are looped to small diameter coated running/shooting line or monofilament, making for long casts.

ACCESSORIES

Baskets: So-called stripping baskets should be called anti-frustration line containers. They can be as simple as a plastic dish pan, slotted or drilled to hold a belt or bungee cord hooks to hold the device around your waist. They are vital for fishing afoot in the surf, from rocks, jetties, and even some cluttered boats. Wear them as low as possible around your waist and learn to drop line in large coils inside. Expert saltwater angler Lou Tabory added eight one-inch long upright "fingers" of 300-pound monofilament inside a plastic basket to keep line coils from tangling when hit by wind. The stiff mono stubs are glued in place through holes drilled in bottom. Orvis sells a basket with small cones molded into the bottom to do the same thing. Some anglers like holes drilled in the bottom to allow drainage, others dislike holes because they permit the basket to sink if you wade deeply.

Leader Stretcher Case: Needed to hold pre-rigged flies, shock leader and leader tippet. They are simply a wood or plastic rack with short bungee loops at one end to hold hooks, plus a notched piece at the other end to hold the leader. Shock tippet or wire bite tippet is kept tight, stretched between bungee and notch. Class tippet is simply coiled, in place, ready for instant use. Keeping straight tippets is vital for good casting and presentation. There╒s no time for making up connections when you╒re fishing.

BOOKS

Detailed information on fishing for various species, equipment, techniques, flies, and more is available from these and other works on saltwater fly fishing.

"Complete Book of Fishermen's Knots, Rigs and How to Use Them" by Bob McNally, published by McNally Outdoors, 1267 Fruit Cove Dr., Fruit Cove, FL 32259.

"Inshore Fly Fishing" by Lou Tabory, published by Lyons & Burford, 31 West 21 St. NY, NY 10010.

"Fly Fishing in Salt Water" revised edition, by Lefty Kreh, published by Nick Lyons books (Lyons & Burford), NY, NY.

"Flies for Saltwater" by Dick Stewart and Farrow Allen, published by Mountain Pond Publishing, North Conway, NH 03860.

"Practical Fishing Knots" by Mark Sosin & Lefty Kreh, published by Lyons & Burford, NY, NY.

"Saltwater Fly Fishing" by Jack Samson, published by Stackpole Books, Cameron & Kelker Sts., PO Box 1831, Harrisburg, PA 17105.

"Practical Saltwater Fly Fishing" by Mark Sosin, Cortland Library, published by Lyons & Burford, NY, NY.

"Lou Tabory╒s Guide to Saltwater Baits & Their Imitations" by Lou Tabory, published by Lyons & Burford, NY, NY.

SELECTED SOURCES

Abel Reel Co.
165 Aviador St.
Camarillo, CA 93010
805-484-8789
Manufacturer: reels

Airflow/Angler Sport Group
6619 Oak Orchard Rd.
Elba, NY 14058
800-332-3937;716-757-9958
Manufacturer: line, leader, tippet. Write for nearest dealer information.

Dan Bailey's Fly Shop
P.O. Box 1019
Livingston, MT 59047
406-222-1673; 800-356-4052
Mail order sales: all equipment.

Blackledge River Co.
Elite Leaders
12 Plants Dam Rd.
East Lyme, CT 06333
203-739-8185
Manufacturer: leaders. Request nearest dealer information.

Browning Div. Zebco
P.O. Box 270
Tulsa, OK 74101
918-836-5581
Manufacturer: rods. Request nearest dealer information.

Complete Angler
2600 Post Rd., East
Southport, CT 06490
800-228-3505; 203-255-3505
Mail order sales specializing in saltwater flies.

Cortland Line Co.
P.O .Box 5588
Cortland, NY 13045
607-756-2851
Manufacturer: lines, leader, tippet, backing, reels, rods. Request nearest dealer information.

DuPont Fishing Lines
6236 Brandywine Bldg.
Wilmington, DE 19898
302-774-4319
Manufacturer: leaders, tippets. Request nearest dealer information.

Fenwick
5242 Argosy Dr.
Huntingdon Beach, CA 92649
406-646-9541
Manufacturer: lines, leaders, tippet, rods. Request nearest dealer information.

J. Kennedy Fisher
P.O. Box 3147
Carson City, NV 89702
702-246-5220
Manufacturer: rods, Bluewater series. Request nearest dealer information.

Fin-Nor
2021 SW 31st Ave.
Hallandale, FL 33009
305-966-5507
Manufacturer: reels. Request nearest dealer information.

Hunter's Angling Supplies
Central Sq., Box 300
New Boston, NH 03070
603-487-3388
Mail order sales: all equipment

Islander Reels
Victoria, British Colombia
Canada
604-384-3242
Manufacturer: reels.

Lamiglas
P.O. Box U
Woodland, WA 98674
206-225-9436
Manufacturer: rods. Request nearest dealer information.

G. Loomis
P.O. Box E
Woodland, WA 98674
206-225-6516
Manufacturer: rods, reels. Request nearest dealer information.

Kaufmann's Streamborn
P.O. Box 23032
Portland, OR 97281
503-639-6400
Mail order catalog: all equipment.

Lamson USA
P.O. Box 469
Redmond, WA 98073
206-881-0733
Manufacturer: reels, new saltwater series. Request nearest dealer information.

Martin Reel Div. Zebco
P.O .Box 270
Tulsa, OK 74101
800-723-7335
Manufacturer: reels. Request nearest dealer information.

McKenzie Fly Tackle Co.
1272 River Rd.
Eugene, OR 97530
503-689-8371
Manufacturer: flies, leaders, stretcher cases. Request nearest dealer information.

Nestucca Reel Co.
21550 N.E. Kings Grade Rd.
Newberg, OR 97132
503-538-2178
Manufacturer: reels, new titanium reel.

Orvis
Historic Route 7A, P.O. Box 798
Manchester, VT 05254-0798
800-548-9548; 802-362-3622
Mail order sales: all equipment, new Odyssey reel, PM-10 rods. Request catalog.

Penn Mfg.
3028 W. Hunting Park
Philadelphia, PA 19132
215-229-9415
Manufacturer: rods. Request nearest dealer information.

Rio Recreational Products, Inc.
180 Ridge St., Blackfoot, ID 83221
800-553-0838; 208-785-1344.
Manufacturer: leaders, tippets, leader/tippet/line accessories; knot tools. Request information nearest dealer information.

Ross Reels
One Ponderosa Ct.
Montrose, CO 81401
303-249-1212
Manufacturer: reels. Request nearest dealer information.

J. Ryall Fly Reels
P.O. Box 117252
Burlingame, CA 94011
415-960-0295
Manufacturer: reels. Request nearest dealer information.

Sage
8500 N.E. Day Rd.
Bainbridge Island, WA 98110
206-842-6608
Manufacturer: reels, rods. Request nearest dealer information.

Scientific Anglers
3M Center, Bldg. 225-3N-04
Saint Paul, MN 55144-1000
612-733-4751
Manufacturer: lines, leader, tippet, backing, reels. Request nearest dealer information.

Scott- PowR-Ply Co.
707B Heinz St.
Berkeley, VA 94710
510-841-2444
Manufacturer: rods. Request nearest dealer information.

Spirit River, Inc.
2405-68 N.E. Diamond Lake Blvd.
Roseburg, OR 97470
800-444-6916; 503-440-6916
Manufacturer: leaders, tippets, flies, accessories. Request nearest dealer information.

STH Reels USA
P.O. Box 816
Marathon, FL 33052
305-743-5971
Manufacturer: reels, new cassette model.

Stream-Line
7865 Day Rd. W., Bldg. B
Bainbridge Island, WA 98110
Manufacturer: reels. Request nearest dealer information.

Talon
P.O. Box 907
Woodland, WA 98674
206-225-8247
Manufacturer: rods. Request nearest dealer information.

Teeny Nymph Co.
P.O. Box 989
Gresham, OR 9703
503-667-6602
Manufacturer: lines, mini-tip and fast-sink head "T" Series, integral with shooting line.

Thomas & Thomas
P.O. Box 32
Turners Falls. MA 01376
413-863-9727
Manufacturer: rods, new saltwater series. Request nearest dealer information.

Tibor Reel Co.
900 N.E. 40th CT
Oakland Park, FL 33334
305-566-0222
Manufacturer: Billy Pate/Ted Jurascik reel.

Umpqua Feather Merchants
P.O. Box 700
Glide, OR 97443
800-322-3218
Manufacturer: flies, leaders, tippet, loop connections. Request nearest dealer information.

Jim Wilson's Saltwater Flies
915 Seminole Blvd.
Tarpon Springs, FL 34689
813-937-6445
Fly, leader stretcher

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