New angling experiences, for most of us, come with varying degrees of apprehension.
One such activity for me was chasing trout with a fly rod while zipping down a river in a rubber raft or MacKenzie boat. While I had invested thousands of hours of my life fishing for various salmonids over a couple of decades, up until a few years ago I had never floated a river in search of these fish.
Learning the various techniques float fishing, I found, is easier with the help of an experienced guide. On my first float trip, Paul Roos of Pro Outfitters in Helena, Montana, helped me learn the basics of float fishing so well that I actually caught a couple of brown trout without injuring anyone in the process.
Since that time Roos has become my friend and I have the good fortune to fish with him in western Montana on a fairly regular basis. When it comes to the basics of float fishing, Roos is the person I turn to. He offered this basic rundown to help both neophytes and veterans, alike.
"If the boat operator is not an expert in both fishing and rowing, don't float. Wade!," Roos warned. "If the person on the oars knows his job, however, and the two fly fishers in the boat understand a few basics, float fishing can add a new dimension to enjoying the sport.
"Most of us began our fly fishing with both feet on the ground and, therefore, we are conditioned to certain techniques that may not always apply when moving with the current in a drift boat."
Boat speed in relation to the swiftness of the river is forever changing, which means that sometimes you should cast ahead of the boat, sometimes across, and sometimes behind. Mending the line and casting a slack line may also be important.
Fishing from a boat means that you are often more visible to the trout, but many times the fly is less visible.
Another big difference is the fact that you are moving down river rapidly and water passed is water not to be fished again that day. False casting should be kept at a minimum and to be productive the fly should spend time on the water--not whizzing back and forth through the air.
The final difference between wading and float fishing is that you are not alone. There is usually another angler in the boat along with the guide. Awareness of each other--where each of you is casting--is crucial if a pleasant and productive day is in the plans. Remember, you are paying good money for the guide's experience and advice. Don't squander either.
Managing the Dry Fly
When you are casting to fish feeding at or near the surface, remember that the trout's field of vision (or window) is greatly diminished, allowing you to drift quite close and make short casts. The casts, however, should be accurate, drifting directly over the feeding fish.
Roos says that one of the most common errors anglers make is casting right at the rise ring instead of well above it. The boat is drifting downstream and so is the ring, but the rising trout is stationary. If you cast at the ring or just slightly above, the fly will not float through the fish's window.
Cast well above the rise. A trout often drifts down with an insect before taking it, so the fish may be much farther upstream than the rise would seem to indicate.
Good guides will put you onto fish and also keep you far enough away so you don't spook the trout. Your only job is to cast the appropriate length to cover the rise.
In most dry fly situations, both anglers in the boat should cast downstream from the boat, throwing some slack in the line by checking the cast during the forward stroke. This abruptly stops the line, causing it to drop to the surface with lazy curves, allowing a longer drag-free drift. The longer the drift the better the chances of fooling a trout.
Once your line is on the water, do whatever you can to extend the float--for example, throwing a mend in your line by flicking the rod upstream or following the float with your rod arm. Stripping in line or playing it out as conditions demand also helps.
"Cast less and manage your line more," says Roos.
The faster you are drifting the more downstream the cast should be. The converse is true in slower water.
Roos prefers a rod of at least 8-1/2 feet throwing a double-taper floating line, which he feels offers greater control. A weight-forward line will give you greater distance but also requires more skill to cast accurately. Six- or seven-weight lines with at least 100 yards of 20-pound backing will handle most river situations.
Managing your line is critical. Avoid drag at all costs. Only cast the amount of line that you can comfortably control, since even the slightest amount of drag will spook a trout. Long casts do not impress experienced anglers. Consistently taking fish under all conditions does.
"One of the difficulties I often hear guides mention is the tendency of some people to rock the boat while casting," says Roos. "This is no big deal in many cases, but if you are casting to rising trout on flat (calm) water, it can spell disaster.
"It's no great fun to see the trout quit rising just before they come into casting range. Enough of this and you'll find your friendly guide getting a little edgy."
To avoid this malady, cast with your wrist, letting the rod do the work. Relax the body and cast as though you were pounding a little nail into a wall.
Roos sums up dry fly float fishing by saying, "Changing the fly is the last thing you should consider. The three most important things are presentation, presentation, and presentation.
"Ask yourself a few questions. Is your fly dragging? Are you spooking the trout by getting into his window of vision instead of your fly? Are trout sensing your presence because you're rocking the boat?"
Nymphing from a Float Boat
Much is written about the nuances of dry fly fishing, yet perhaps no aspect of fly fishing intimidates an angler more than nymphing.
Yet it is often the deadliest method for taking big trout. All you need is a floating line, a strike indicator (often a piece of adhesive fluorescent foam) placed part way up the leader, and often some weight to sink the nymph.
The placement of the indicator depends on how deep the nymph is fished. Experimentation will dictate the right depth needed to drift the nymph into a trout's feeding lane.
Getting the fly in front of the trout is much more important than using the "proper" pattern. "Changing flies won't do any good if you're not putting that fly near the trout," Roos says.
If you are casting into water that is moving about the same speed as the boat, cast straight to the side, perpendicular to the current. A quick, lifting mend works well to extend a natural drift. If the boat is moving slower than the current, aim upstream. In other words, constantly adjust to the varying conditions.
Any indication that the fly has stopped its natural drift, such as a dip in the line or a quick stop, may mean a fish has taken the fly. Strike, but do so gently in case the change in the drift was merely the nymph hitting bottom. This allows you to continue your drift without casting again.
Detecting strikes when nymphing is a combination of concentration, experience, and an acquired sixth sense. After taking a couple of dozen trout this way, you'll understand the "sixth-sense" part of the game.
Streamers for Big Trout
Fishing streamers may be the best method for taking trophy trout.
If conditions allow, streamer fishing can be successfully accomplished with your floating line. Cast upstream, allowing the pattern to make an across-and-down motion. This behavior imitates a wounded minnow.
When working the bank, cast right next to it or even slightly onshore and then move the streamer immediately. Big trout, especially browns, often lie in water that does not even cover their backs. Taking a 20-inch fish in these conditions can be conservatively described as "interesting."
A quick, stripping retrieve works best. Always fish out the cast, because many fine trout are taken right next to the boat. If the water temperature is at the cold or hot end of the trout's feeding spectrum, slow down the retrieve since the fish's metabolism has also decreased.
Keep your casting at a minimum to avoid spooking the trout. The same axiom holds true for streamers as it does for dry flies and nymphs. To catch trout the fly must be in the water and not riding the winds.
Sometimes you must get the streamer down deep; this will require the addition of weight and even the use of a high-speed, fast-sinking line. Handling this type of setup is hard work for the novice fly caster and probably best reserved only as a last resort. If you do take on this challenge, wear sunglasses and a hat. Errant hooks can injure or even blind you.
These are the basics of float fishing for trout. Although there is no substitute for experience on the water, this can be gained very quickly. Even one day floating will improve your skills dramatically.
Do's and Don'ts of Float Fishing
Do: Listen to advice from your guide. This is part of what you paid good money for and he's the captain.
Don't: Make rapid, jerky movements while you are in the raft or boat. This can be an unsettling experience.
Do: Keep an eye on what's ahead of you on the river to avoid being thwacked by an overhanging branch, bridge beam, or such.
Don't: Get out of the boat until the guide says it is okay to do so. This is dangerous and guides really hate people leaping out of their rafts helter-skelter.
Don't: "Poach" on the other angler's water. Confine your casts to an area from bank to bank roughly from the raft's mid-point.
Do: Bring a cheerful disposition with you. Float trips are made or broken depending on the crew's attitude.
Gear and Clothing
The type of outfit you prefer to fish with is as much a matter of personal preference and comfort as anything else. What works for one person may be hideously awkward for you, but here are a few general guidelines.
A rod in the 9 to 9-1/2 foot range will handle just about any river in the West. Some people drop down to an 8-1/2 or even an 8-foot rod, but the longer the rod, the better able you are to lift the line over the many subtle river currents that cause drag on a fly's drift and spook the trout. Six- and seven-weight lines are the norm with 100 to 150 yards of 20-pound backing.
Wait until you reach the local fly shop before purchasing any flies; they'll know there what's hot and what's not.
Either hip-waders or chest waders are needed for getting in and out of the raft or boat or for fishing runs when you pull over to shore. If you go with neoprene chest waders, be sure they come with gravel guards or, if not, buy some to prevent wear and tear and improve comfort. A good pair of felt-soled wading shoes is also a must.
Good polarized sunglasses help read the water, spot the fish, and protect your eyes from errant casts and protruding sticks.
Finally, a lightweight fishing vest with enough pockets to hold spare reel spools, fly boxes, leaders, fly dope, and such is needed.
Copyright (c) 1996 John Holt. All rights reserved.
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