Consider a river that is fertile, a flow loaded with aquatic plant, and animal life flourishing in cold, clear water. A river that flows easily through a gentle valley in the wide-open high plains country. A large mountain range rolls away to the southwest to add to the spectacle.
And yes, there are good numbers of healthy trout here--fish that willingly take a fly.
Maybe the river happens to be the Bighorn. If this is the case, consider that no stream in Montana has received more attention in outdoor magazines than this river winding through the Crow Indian Reservation in the south-central region of the state.
Ever since the water below Yellowtail Dam was opened to fishing some years back, angling writers have raved about the trophy browns (and rainbows) that are taken here on a regular basis.
This publicity has translated into incredible fishing pressure on the first 13-mile stretch of water known as the Upper 13. On a pleasant summer day you will encounter literally hundreds of anglers fishing from shore and a similar number working the river from drift boats and rafts.
Verbal confrontations and even fights have resulted from this heavy traffic.
For example, on a recent September day some friends and I floated the river under the expert guidance of Dean Barnes of Quill Gordon Fly Fishers in Fort Smith. We got a late-morning start and the river was already jammed with boats and wading anglers. Jockeying for position on prime stretches was common and we saw some turf battles during the day.
Yet, even under these adverse conditions, our party took a number of browns and rainbows in the 18- to 22-inch range. And this was on a crystal-clear, bluebird weather day that was anything but ideal for fishing.
Just five years ago the fishing here was unbelievable, but once the word got out, the number of angler days on the river skyrocketed and the size and numbers of trout began to decrease (though the situation appears to have stabilized somewhat).
Does all of this mean that an angler should avoid the Bighorn entirely?
The answer is no, especially beginning in mid-August and running through the fall. This is when the trout are on the move and the fishing is fine.
And there are some things you can do to improve your odds for a pleasant and successful experience. For those who have little fly-fishing experience or have never taken a good trout, the Bighorn is a nice place to get their feet wet.
Many of the articles I've read on fishing this river claim that fish are taken by the dozens and many of them are in the five-pound and up range. Tales of 90-fish days with trout averaging three pounds or more abound.
My experience and the experiences of those anglers whose judgment I trust indicate something more modest, but still quite good. A person who fishes hard--who works at it--will probably take a half-dozen or more trout that will average around 16 inches in a day's fishing.
Experienced and/or lucky anglers have a legitimate chance to connect with one of the big boys, but to come to this water and expect a tackle-busting fight on every cast is extremely unrealistic.
In addition to the Upper 13, there are two other stretches of water of similar length--from Bighorn to Mallard and from Mallard to Two Leggins.
Working these places will help you avoid much of the madding crowd, but as with most solutions, there are some tradeoffs. Chief among these are low water and water quality problems caused by poor irrigation practices in the valley. This is often the case for the lower portion of these stretches from Rotten Grass on. Also, access is difficult in spots, and many of the outfitters prefer not to float this water.
The consensus is that the lower two stretches have fewer fish, but they average larger in size and receive less angling pressure.
"I've never taken anyone down that part of the river who hasn't caught at least a few fish," said outfitter David Schaff of nearby Hardin. "There are some water quality problems, but you can still catch fish."
So now that you are completely discouraged and saying to yourself that the Bighorn is out of the question, read on. Mixed in with the negative information is a healthy dose of positive news.
If you wish to fish the Upper 13 from shore, from rental boat (more on this later), or with a guide (more on this, too), hit the water early: by 8:00 a.m. This will put you on the river before the bulk of the neoprene-clad armada sets sail.
You'll be fishing over trout that have not been sensitized (or for that matter, traumatized) by the offerings of several anglers before you, and you will have a much more peaceful experience floating a very pretty river in relatively serene surroundings. As summer gives way to fall, the number of fly fishers declines slightly and a subtle change to more dedicated individuals will be noticed.
They are here hunting big browns (and rainbows). Gone are many of the summertime crazies more intent on chugging vast quantities of beer and foul-hooking their guide.
While I have never seen anyone use spinning gear or bait on the Bighorn, I'm sure there are people who do fish with these methods, but I've only used fly fishing equipment here.
A nine-foot rod with a six- or seven-weight line will handle all of the water. You want a rod that is light enough to make casting a fun, but not so dainty that it lacks the backbone to pressure a strong fish using the current to increase its fighting advantage.
A longer rod will also allow you to extend the float of your fly, nymph, or streamer. The added length will allow you to keep the line off the water to some degree and avoid the swirling currents and eddies that add drag to the drift and spook the trout.
There is a little bit of everything on the river: long, deep, glassy runs; deep holes; riffles; undercut banks; submerged logs; feeding lanes between clumps of aquatic plants--all flowing over a gravel bottom.
Choosing the proper pattern here can be as complicated as you wish, but a few basic flies will take fish on most of the river most of the time. These include Blue-Winged Olives size 16-20, Pale Morning Duns 18-20, Black Caddis 16-18, Tan Caddis 14-18, Yellow Stonefly 10-14, and Midges 18-22.
Because of the relatively small size of these patterns you will want to use at least nine-foot leaders (12-foot would be better) tapered to 4X, 5X, and even 6X. These very fine tippets will help you fool the fish, but the tradeoff is that a good fish will break you off more often than not.
The decision is yours. I prefer the smaller tippets and increased action despite the frustration of lost fish.
Because you will find trout holding throughout the river, long casts are not necessary. One day I watched an extremely skilled angler take several good fish from a feeding pod. Not one of his casts was more than 40 feet, but each offering was made with pinpoint accuracy and extreme delicacy. Once he hooked a trout, the fish was immediately and quietly worked away from the others still feeding, played, and then released.
With practice, any caster can make good casts at this range and take plenty of trout in the process.
Once you connect with a trout, get the fish on the reel as quickly as possible. By this I mean either wind any slack back onto your reel or carefully let the line run out through your line hand as the fish makes its first run. You will have much more control over the situation when you can play the fish from the reel--fewer things can go wrong when you are fighting the strong trout of the Bighorn.
If you want or need to use nymphs, tying on any of the following should work: Brassie size 14-16, Gold-Ribbed Hare's Ear 12-16, yellow-gold Scud 8-12, or Pheasant Tail 14-18.
These need to be fished right along the bottom and a twist-on or two of lead will sink these where they can do their best work. Sink-tip lines are, for the most part, difficult to fish and unnecessary if you use some lead.
You need to stay in touch with the nymph, allowing it to roll along the bottom while still maintaining sufficient contact just short of a tight line.
As for streamers, all in the 2-6 size range, the usual gang that includes Woolly Buggers, Zonkers, Muddler Minnows, and Spruce flies will get the attention of big trout.
Cast these bank-tight or even on the bank and then immediately begin to strip them back toward you. When a fish hits a streamer fished this way, you'll know it.
If you are fishing by wading from shore, cast across and upstream in a quartering fashion. Most of your casts made from a boat or raft as you float down river will be made slightly ahead of you. Adjustments are made depending on the speed of the current. Flocking your rod tip upstream will throw a little mend in the line and extend your drag-free float, increasing your odds of taking a decent fish.
One last pattern that may be the best fish-taker in the bunch is also the most controversial. I am referring to the infamous San Juan Worm. This fly imitates the red worms found in the river bottom detritus.
All trout, especially the big ones, love to munch on these worms, but a fairly large puritanical segment of the fly fishing population abhors the use of and cannot tolerate even the thought of anyone using a San Juan Worm.
What I can tell you with absolute confidence is that this pattern will catch fish on the Bighorn at all times. And I find the use of this pattern no more offensive than using a Day-Glo red egg pattern for Alaskan salmon or the latest craze--fish-flesh flies.
In addition to the tackle and flies mentioned above, you will need chest waders for getting in and out of the boat and for wading, a good pair of polarized sunglasses, rain gear, a sweater and gloves in case things turn nasty--which can happen in a hurry--and some sun screen. Even in September the sun can fry you like an egg during a day on the water.
The easiest way to find Fort Smith and the Bighorn River is to turn off Interstate 94 at Billings and head south on I-90 for 39 miles to Hardin. From here you take No. 313 for 44 miles to Fort Smith. Yellowtail Dam and the after-bay boat ramp are here, as well as several fly shops, gas, and groceries.
If you want to bring some cold beer along on the trip, you'll need to purchase it at Hardin. No alcohol is sold on the reservation.
For those who have never fished the Bighorn, the investment in the services of a guide for at least one day is money well spent. You'll cover a good deal of the water and the guide will give you some good advice on reading the river, technique, and fly selection.
For the Upper 13, try Quill Gordon Fly Fishers, Box 597, Fort Smith, MT 59035; telephone 406-666-2253. There is also a complete fly-shop to take care of any angling needs you may have.
As for the lower two sections discussed, check out Schaff at Two Leggins Outfitters, Star Route, Hardin, MT 59034; telephone 665-2825.
For a unique experience on the Bighorn and if you are extremely sure of your abilities to row and handle a drift boat, you can rent one for $50/day from Quill Gordon. This includes launch and pick-up. Be absolutely sure you know how to maneuver one of these boats or you will end up on the end of a very long day filled with really angry anglers.
The town of Hardin is a good place to serve as a base of operations, and the Lariat Motel is in the center of town, comfortable and easy to find at 709 N. Center Avenue, Hardin, MT 59034; telephone 406-665-2683.
Finally, round up a Montana highway map and a copy of the 1990 Montana Visitor's Guide by calling Travel Montana at 800-541-1447 (out-of-state) or 444-2654 (in Montana).
With a little planning and a willingness to hit the water early in the morning, fishing the Bighorn can prove to be a rewarding experience.
Copyright d(c) 1996 John Holt. All rights reserved.
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