(Originally appeared 10/14/96)
To Cook a Woodcock
by Doug Truax, Publisher
"I do not hunt for the joy of killing, but for the joy of living, and for the inexpressible pleasure of mingling my life, however briefly, with that of a wild creature that I respect, admire and value."If I could practice catch-and-release hunting I probably would.--John Madsen, Out Home
That not being possible, I must admit that one of the pleasures of the hunt is being able to cook and eat the bounty. And around my house no game is savored as much as woodcock.
About this time of year these odd birds with the upside down brains begin migrating through our area in large numbers. My little English setter has an abundance of talent for finding them; my skills at shooting them are more modest, but good enough to keep a steady supply of birds available for the grill through the month of October.
Mention eating woodcock to the vast majority of people--even those who hunt birds--and you're likely to receive reactions that range from displeasure to outright disgust. One hunter I know cooks them up and feeds them to the dogs. Others eat them dutifully because they've killed them, but it's clear they take no pleasure in the dining.
Most people complain that, at best, woodcock taste like liver. Since I find liver rather revolting, I take their complaints seriously. And, in fact, woodcock does taste like liver if it's cooked poorly, which usually means that it is cooked for a long time in a slow oven. Most game cookbooks recommend this approach and it is sure second death to the little critters.
The preparation of woodcock should be approached with all the deliberation reserved for a religious sacrament. There's little room for error.
First, resist all temptation to pluck out the breast. Wash out the cavity and cut off the head, feet below the knee joint, and wings. Then pluck the bird, keeping the skin as intact as possible. At this point I usually split the birds up the back with game shears and take out the backbone so the will lie flat on the grill.
(I know that some people follow the French tradition and prefer to cook woodcock undrawn or "in the round"--that is, with the entrails still in the bird. I can't vouch for this method since I've never tried it, although I'd be inclined to follow Romi Perkins's advice in the Orvis Cookbook and precede this meal with at least three martinis.)
I usually marinade the birds before grilling them. Purists may wish to proceed directly to a hot grill. If you want to try a marinade I highly recommend one that includes a liberal dose of A-1 Steak Sauce, butter, red wine vinegar, tarragon, and garlic. Let the birds soak for at least a couple of hours. In the meantime, make sure all the other parts of the meal are under control; once you approach the grill or stove you can't miss a beat or be distracted by fooling with rice or decanting the wine.
When you're ready, fire up your outdoor grill to high heat. Put the birds on the grill and watch them like a hawk eyeing a fat field mouse. Grill for two or three minutes on the rib side and flip them over to the breast side for another few minutes. No more than 10 minutes total, probably less. Check to see that they are pink by the breast bone.
That's it. You're done. Pile them on a platter and serve promptly while they are still steaming. We always err on the side of serving them too rare; if they come out a little bloody you can always return them to the grill for a quick dose of heat.
Overcook by even a few minutes, however, and you'll have a grayish looking meat that does indeed taste like liver. Feed it to the dogs.
But hit it right and you have a delightful meal that tastes better than filet mignon. You have paid the woodcock its proper respect and you will be sated with the richness of autumn.
Copyright (c) 1996 Doug Truax. All rights reserved.
