Tournament Topics Pro's Pointers Heads up! Stocking Your Jig Box by Dave Csanda They're bitin'! Grab your "jig box" and meet me on the river. Years ago, the call might have gone out to grab your "tackle box," or at least, your "walleye box." Nowadays, however, walleye anglers are so specialized that they often carry a wide array of different lure categories in various shapes and sizes; so much so, that they store them in separate component boxes, rather than one large heavy box. Thus the term jig box. Or more likely, jig boxes, in order to cover all the bases. Small component boxes with multiple compartments are ideal for storing jigheads, plastic bodies, stinger hooks, and miscellaneous jig-related items. Some have fixed dividers; others are movable. Toss several jig boxes in a carry-all shoulder bag for a versatile system to cover any condition. Word of advice: One jig isn't heavy, but hundreds of jigs add up to serious jiggage. Avoid placing too much weight in one component box; you'll destroy the hinges or latches. You'll likely need more than one jig component box anyway. Place your most-used small-to-average-size jigs in one box and ultraheavy jigs in another. Plastic bodies may require a box all their own, or a tackle bag pocket filled with individual resealable bags containing different bodies. Stock your jigging assortment according to your most-used sizes, shapes, and colors of jigheads, for the waters you fish. No need to carry loads of heavyweights if you mostly fish shallow water; keep those in another box for occasional use. Still, be prepared for any situation with a representative selection of tackle that enables you to fish anywhere. Jigs are versatile lures that can be cast or trolled from the shallowest cover to the deepest water. Size, shape, and design tailor some jigs toward specific conditions; others are so versatile that they perform well almost everywhere. Most walleye situations can be covered with 1/16-, 1/8-, 1/4-, or 3/8-ounce jigheads. But always match head size and shape to conditions. Extremely shallow or subtle presentations, such as pitching leeches up into a foot or two of water, may require lighter 1/32-ounce jigs. At the opposite extreme, vertical fishing in strong river current below dams might demand heavy versions up to 1 ounce. In general, increasing jig weight is accompanied by an increase in corresponding hook size. Small jigs (1/32- and 1/16-ounce) still must sport sizable hooks, however, at least #1 or #2 with sufficient gap to expose the hook point when the jig's tipped with a minnow or plastic tail, plus the strength to hook and hold large fish. Jigheads come in a variety of shapes. The versatile round head provides the best compromise of performance characteristics for use nearly anywhere, though additional head shapes may better match conditions. Round heads excel for vertical jigging presentations. They cut current and retrieve fairly well through weeds and snags. The position of the hook eye atop the head, however, tends to collect weeds or debris. Perfection or other oblong heads basically are modifications of the round head. Flat bottoms and low centers of gravity on standup heads make them stand upright at rest, or at least resist tipping over. The hook eye tends to be positioned toward the front of the head, improving weed resistance, but detracting from vertical fishing ability. It's primarily a good casting jig that performs best in shallow water or weeds. In-Fisherman Professional Walleye Trail pro Keith Kavajecz jigs up walleye gold. Weedless jigs tend to be pointed, with the hook eye positioned at the nose to reduce or eliminate a collection point for debris. They slither through weeds and wood much better than standard heads. Those with weedguards, or rigged weedless with plastic tails, aid in fishing through wood snags. Flatter shapes are not particularly good for vertical presentations, however. Select a round weedless head for vertical fishing in timber. Spinner jigs like the Northland Whistler add flash and vibration to jigging presentations--something different when fish don't respond to standard fare. Northland's BuckShot Rattlers feature removable rattle chambers for added attraction in dingy water. Neither head style requires aggressive pumps of the rod tip to make the blades spin or rattles dance; subtle lift-drops generally create sufficient sound to attract fish. Years ago, jigs were strictly tied with subtle bucktail, hair, or feather bodies. These still excel when fish prefer slow, subtle retrieves and the breathing action of tiny fibers when the jig's at rest. Nowadays, however, interchangeable plastic bodies are more versatile and come in a rainbow of colors. Mix and match body shapes and colors to achieve desired results. Subtle tails with marabou dressing, like Lindy-Little Joe Fuzz-E-Grubs, entice fussy fish. Aggressive wobbling tails, like 3-inch Mister Twister Meeny Grubs, perform better with faster or irregular retrieves. White, black, brown, and yellow are good in clear water. In dark water, try fluorescent orange, chartreuse, glow, or two-tone heads to increase visibility. Jigheads with barbed collars tend to grip and hold plastic bodies better than non-barbed versions. Stinger hooks increase hookups when fish nip at the tail of the jig--a common condition in cold water, particularly when the jig is tipped with a minnow. Walleye jigs often come with attachable treble stingers that clip onto an eye, hanging back in perfect position to hook short strikers. Insert one barb of the stinger into the minnow's tail. Or tie your own short stingers from #8 trebles and mono line. Slip bobbers often are rigged with tiny 1/32-ounce jigheads to add a spot of color ahead of your bait for attraction in dark water. Freshwater Tackle offers tiny jigs with thin swimming-style bodies specifically for bobber fishing. Stinger Tackle offers lightweight weedless versions for fishing in and around weeds and wood. Heads . . . or tales? Carry the right jig selection to turn those woulda-been shoulda-been fairy tales into success stories. Copyright 1997 In-Fisherman, Inc.