Caution:
Alpha Hydroxy Acids
in Cosmetics

By Roberta Angela Dee

Recently, cosmetics containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are being widely used despite unanswered questions regarding their safety. A recent study, sponsored by the cosmetics industry, indicates that these products may make users more sensitive to sunlight and especially to the ultraviolet (UV) radiation component of sunlight. UV exposure can damage the skin. At high doses, especially over a long period, UV radiation can cause skin cancer. The Food and Drug Administration(FDA) is currently evaluating this study and is pursuing additional studies to make sure these products are safe for consumers. Unfortunately, these products continue to be widely marketed and distributed while the FDA makes a more thorough evaluation.

Everyone, whether fair or dark complexioned, should use sun protection before going into the sun (daylight). Adequate protection can be achieved by wearing a hat with a brim of at least four inches. It also helps to wear lightweight sun protective clothing with long sleeves, and to apply sunscreen with an SPF (or Sun Protection Factor) of at least 15. Sunscreens should be reapplied after excessive sweating or swimming. It is especially important to use effective sun protection if you are going to the beach and will be exposed to high levels of UV radiation.

The recent study makes these sun protection precautions even more important if you use AHA-containing products. Even though your AHA product may contain sunscreen, it is primarily a skin treatment product--not a means of sun protection. If you use the AHA at bedtime, be sure to apply an additional sunscreen product in the morning before going into the sun.

The agency has received about 100 reports of adverse effects with AHA products, ranging from mild irritation and stinging to blistering and burns. If you have sensitive skin, test any product that containing an AHA on a small area of skin before applying it to a larger area. If you experience skin irritation or prolonged stinging, stop using the product and consult your physician.

Do not exceed the recommended applications of AHA, and please note that AHA-containing products are not to be used on infants or children.

To find out if a cosmetic contains an AHA, look on the list of ingredients all cosmetics must, by law, have on their outer packaging. AHA ingredients may be listed as:

ï glycolic acid
ï lactic acid
ï malic acid
ï citric acid ï glycolic acid + ammonium glycolate
ï alpha-hydroxyethanoic acid + ammonium alpha-hydroxyethanoate
ï alpha-hydroxyoctanoic acid
ï alpha-hydroxycaprylic acid
ï hydroxycaprylic acid
ï mixed fruit acid
ï tri-alpha hydroxy fruit acids
ï triple fruit acid
ï sugar cane extract
ï alpha hydroxy and botanical complex
ï L-alpha hydroxy acid
ï glycomer in crosslinked fatty acids alpha nutrium (three AHAs).

Of these, the most frequently used in cosmetics are glycolic acid and lactic acid.

AHA products promote exfoliation -- shedding of surface skin. The extent of exfoliation depends on the type and concentration of the AHA, its pH (acidity), and other ingredients in the product. Most cosmetics sold to consumers contain AHAs at levels up to 10 percent. It is FDA's understanding that products with AHA concentrations of 20 percent or higher are used solely by trained cosmetologists for salon "mini-peels."

In studies conducted by FDA on the absorption of AHAs through the skin, the AHAs tested were readily absorbed into the skin at varying rates. The most rapid absorption occurred with AHAs having higher acidity (lower pH). FDA issued a report in February 1996. "Effects of Alpha Hydroxy Acid on the Skin" concluded that additional scientific investigation was needed to establish the safety of these products.The recent report linking AHAs to increased UV sensitivity was sponsored by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association. The results were reported at a December 1996 meeting of the trade group's Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel (CIR), which began reviewing the safety of AHAs in 1994.The panel concluded at its December meeting that AHAs are "safe for use in cosmetic products at concentrations less than or equal to 10 percent, at final formulation pHs greater than or equal to 3.5, when formulated to avoid increasing the skin's sensitivity to the sun, or when directions for use include the daily use of sun protection."

FDA is reviewing these CIR conclusions, as well as the other available data about these products. Consumers should be aware that AHA concentration and pH are generally not noted on all products. The FDA simply does not require it. However, the information should be available from the manufacturer. Cosmetics manufacturers are not required to submit safety data to FDA before marketing products, although they bear the responsibility for manufacturing safe products. Consumers should report any adverse reactions, such as irritation or sun sensitivity, associated with the use of AHAs to their local FDA office, listed in the Blue Pages of the phone book, or to FDA's Office of Consumer Affairs at (1-800) 532-4440.

The End

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Roberta Angela Dee