Clean Up That Closet!

Developing Your Wardrobe
(Some Ideas for Larger People)

By Cindy Martin
Copyright 1996 Transgender Forum
One of the easiest mistakes to make when putting together your wardrobe is to pick the wrong style for your body type. I've done it plenty of times, often because I was attracted by the color. The wrong color will kill any garment, but as important as color is, a garment that is made of the wrong fabric or is an inappropriate style will always be a weak link in your closet.

When I shop, if I don't have anything in particular in mind, I always look for colors first, then the style and the fabric. If I'm not sure about all three, I won't buy it. I'm not rich enough to have more losers on my hangars.

In this part of the Style Counsel series we'll look at two body types that are extremely common in the transgender community: tall and heavy, and tall and slender. Since the average U.S. woman is between 5'4'' and 5'7" I'll consider you tall if you're 5'8 or taller. All of the information here can be found in Simplicity's "Simply the Best Sewing Book"

Tall and Large

Just because you wear a size higher than 14 doesn't mean you have to wear clothes that hide your stature, but you probably also don't want to end up looking like a linebacker in drag.

The key word for you is simplicity and streamlining. Avoid busy lines, pleats and over-frilly outfits. Anyone who has ever been to a formal drag event has seen what disasters are made when poufy prom dresses are worn over 6-4, 220-pound bodies. Keep the lines neat.

Dresses with softly belted waistlines and wrapped closings are always a good bet for you and give you a touch of elegance no matter what the design. Keep your seperates softly tailored. A softly-flared skirt, bow-tie blouse and a single-breasted jacket is a great look for work or shopping. For a more casual look try straight-leg pants and tunic-length tops. Think of Bea Arthur, who carried off her look perfectly at every age and stage in her career.

Choice of fabric is extremely important for the taller, heavier person. Stick with plain, smooth textures in medium weights. Stay away from nubbly finishes. Soft or crisp styles work great for you. Medium plaids, prints and stripes are all okay, though I wouldn't go out of my way to buy outfits with stripes in them. Avoid tiny prints or oversized ones, but do look for prints when you shop. Just think soft and smooth and you'll be fine.

Tall and Slender

This group should have an easy time of it, considering how so much of what comes down the runways is draped over slender, tall bodies. It is easier to shop if you're tall and slender, but you still have to be careful about getting clothes that emphasize your height.

One good idea to work with when you shop is to look for garments that highlight one of your best features: a relatively narrow waist. Good bets are loose flowing dresses that are nipped in at the waist. Pleats or tucks at the waistlines of skirts or pants will also look great on you.

You can wear cuffs on your pants and your blouses can have tucks at the shoulders, even some padding if you like. Unless you have bodybuilder shoulders you may be able to put some emphasis in the shoulders to establish a nice line down to the waist.

Tall and slender women can also wear double breasted jackets, which are great for work or shopping. Try a fitted jacket too, but be careful: if it is too tailored and long it can make you look taller.

The tall, slender woman can wear clothes that have plenty of texture. Wear medium and heavy fabrics when possible. Bold prints, stripes and plaids all work, so long as they are in your color palettes. Go for contrasting colors in your seperates.


Next Month:Clothes for the shorter person.
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