I liked the sophistication and coverage of liquid and cream foundations, but the lightness and natural look I got from pancake (pressed powder) was hard to argue with too. Then there was the whole question of oil or water-based products. Both had advantages, and of course, disadvantages.
But before I get too deep into any of these questions let me emphasize one point: nothing matters more than the right color. You can get away with the wrong formulation for a night, but the wrong color will wreck your look in a second. Read the first part in this series and other articles in our library about color if you still aren't sure what your best colors are.
If your face looks like you just ate a bucket of chicken after wearing foundation for an hour or so, you probably shouldn't be using that oil-based liquid (make sure you dispose of it in a certified hazardous waste site).
On the other hand, if the lines around your mouth bear a strong resemblance to the crack in the Liberty Bell you probably need a little oil in your formula.
I have a lot of oil in my skin, which my black friends tell me means I won't wrinkle quite so fast. Schyah, I say to that. So when do I stop getting acne? When I'm 80?
My answer was an oil-based beard cover used as lightly as I could get away with and a pressed powder foundation on top of that. It wasn't a perfect solution, but I found that it was easier to get a decent match using that combination than it was using a water base which tended to cause everything to smear.
Today I use Prescriptives products and favor their pressed powders as a basic foundation over a little concealer. This is all really just a variation of the same thing I used to do before electrolysis, except that I trowel it all on a little lighter.
A pressed powder is very different from a loose, finishing powder. The high quality ones are very close to being creams except that they are sheerer. I admit to a bias towards such products, brought up as I was as a young transvestite with nothing more than clown white and pancake.
Today's pressed powders can be used over water and oil base foundations, but they really can stand on their own. I remember how truly amazed I was when I used one for the first time. I just could not believe that a powder could provide such cover without looking cakey and dry. These days several companies actually make products that go on as a liquids or creams and become powders, the best-known of these comes from the Princess Borghese line. It is expensive, but really wonderful.
Water-based products are also a good choice if you have oily skin. I've never found them to be as good an option as a quality pressed powder, but some people really like them and they do go on very smoothly. Plus, you can find good ones like Revlon's Springwater Oil-free Foundation in the drug store.
If you have dry or normal skin you've got all the options.
My first choice would a quality oil-base for it's smoothness and coverage. After that I would go with the water-bases or powders, but it is strictly a personal choice for you since you don't have to worry much about shininess.
Some ingredients to look for that are good for most skin include aloe (a skin softener), soluble collagen (to maintain suppleness of the skin's outer layer), hyaluronic acid (to add moisture), hydrolized elastin (to enhance elasticity), and PABA (sun screen).
If you have allergies or sensitive skin, choose foundations with almond, sesame, or avocado oils. These natural oils are known for their soothing properties and low level of irritation.
Mineral oil can be a problem, though it is very common is cosmetics, because it can block your pores. If you are prone to acne, stay away from foundations containing oil (except perhaps as one of the last ingredients) and detergents such as sodium laurel. In fact, if you find that you get a break out a day or two after using ANY foundation. Toss it.
Next Month: Spackling and Patching with Beard Covers and Concealers
Back to Transgender Forum's home page