Fall Fashion

Nobody expects a return of opulence and ostentation in fashion, but, yes, some changes are brewing for fall. And who doesn't need some new clothes, even if it's just for morale purposes?

Richard Martin, the director of the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, succinctly describes the direction as, "long, lean, simple," and practically everybody agrees. Monika Tilley, the sportswear designer, prescribes "clothes that follow the body," and Salvatore Cesarani, the menswear designer, speaks of a "snugly fitted shape." Yes, men's clothes are part of the same trend. Men's jackets, after a period of ease, are now being cut so snugly a handkerchief might make a bulge. For either sex, the best advice is stick to your diet and go to the gym.

To get down to specifics, here are some fashions that will not frighten the neighbors, but are expected to make a strong showing for fall. Use them as a guideline to what you should be looking for. They will not only put some zip in your wardrobe, but they should go on being fashion right for the next few seasons, if everything goes according to plan.

The skinny long coat. Everybody needs a winter coat. This year, don't plan to wear a couple of sweaters and a jacket under it. The coat itself is cut like a jacket, only longer, much longer. Karl Lagerfeld actually used the long coat as a jacket over narrow pants in his collection for Chanel. Lagerfeld's ideas for Chanel have a habit of working into the main stream, so you'll see many long coats in the stores before long. Call them suits, if you please.

Pants. "I've never sketched so many pants in my life," says Marcos, the fashion illustrator. "There seems to be a different shape for every kind of woman." The best shapes are narrow, approaching that of leggings. Some have a little flare at the edge to fit over boots. But variations are acceptable, so suit your figure.

Long skirt. If you're a pack rat, you might have one or two long skirts hanging in the back of your closet, skirts you bought when designers seemed to feel the mini was finished. You don't have to worry about slits to show the legs this time around. Just get long, skinny skirts you can walk in, the skinnier the better. It will go wonderfully with that long, skinny coat.

The evening shift. Resist the ruffles and petticoats. The best dress for evening fits as closely as you can take it. It might even have a bit of stretch fiber worked in. It could be in silk, velvet or even some synthetic mix. The important thing is the snug fit. If this is what you're after, allow yourself time to find the most flattering style. It's not easy.

Lace. It's not just for grand dames and bridesmaids. Lace is developing a life of its own, in blouses, jackets, even evening dresses. Instead of traditional black an navy, it comes in vivid or muted colors, and can even be coated with shiny plastic. It has a fragile look, though in some of the synthetic yarns, it's anything but. It's not your mother's lace dress.

Scared of all those skinny shapes? There are underpinnings that might help. Panty hose with support tops, controlling underpants, even slips might help hold that line.

This is just an outline of what to be thinking about as you contemplate the new season. More anon. Don't panic.

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