Hair, Hair Everywhere-
And Not Even One Brush With Which To Groom It!
By Susan Thorpe-Vargas MS, Ph.D. and John Cargill MA, MBA, MS
When you take on the ownership of a dog you also take on the job of grooming
your pet. How
much grooming is needed depends upon the breed and what you do with your
dog. A show dog is going to need a lot more grooming than your normal
companion animal, but some grooming will be necessary no matter what the
breed or activity. This article will seek to provide some basic instruction
in the normal requirements for canine cleanliness. It is only a review of
the fundamentals and will not cover the requirements of the specific breeds,
only the general information for the breed type. Keep in mind that minimal
grooming will be a necessary chore and one to consider when contemplating
getting a dog. Not only is it important for the dog's health and well-being,
but a clean dog promotes the human/animal bond. Who wants to hug a smelly
dirty animal? If you were smart and/or lucky you got your puppy from a
reputable breeder. She or he handled the infant from the day it was born and
their touch and scent were at least the second ones it became familiar with.
Grooming keeps up that interaction and fosters the trust required by the dog
to accept hands all over his body, including feet, mouth and ears. Your vet
will appreciate this also as it will make his or her job a lot easier.
Tail of the Groom
You just cannot do a decent job of grooming, even of the back yard pet, let
alone a show dog, without a proper complement of tools. What we cover here
are those tools we consider absolutely necessary, or which will make your
life a whole lot easier for a very small increase in cost. In other words,
don't groom without them.
Brushes and combs- the type and variety will depend on the breed, but
for a long coated type a wide coarse comb and a fine toothed one will be
necessary. The Universal brush or the slicker brush is helpful to have for
back brushing the shorter hair found on the legs and the hocks. Also the pin
brush is useful as it does not break the hair. The short coated dog will
need a curry type brush and a short hard natural bristle brush.
Nail Trimmers and grinders- There are two types of nail trimmers, the
guillotine and the scissors. The latter tend to crush and splinter the nail
so most groomers recommend the guillotine type. Better yet is a small
'Dremel' type grinding tool. These are often used for show dogs and dogs
that have a problem with cracked nails as they leave a fine smooth finish.
Some dogs react to the noise and vibration and in such cases it may not be
possible to use a rotary grinder.
Shampoos and Conditioners- There are many different types of shampoos
out there. Be sure to select a shampoo especially formulated for dogs as dog
shampoos have a more alkaline pH than human shampoos. This is why even mild
human baby shampoo can dry out a dog's skin. Two other considerations are
the lathering capability and how well it rinses out. Dogs have a lot more
'coat' than humans, so the well-formulated dog shampoo should lather up fast
and rinse out easily. Shampoo residue may cause itching and flaking of skin
in some dogs. For sensitive dogs, (there is a dog out there that is
allergic to any given shampoo) special non-soap shampoo formulations are
available through your vet or a well-stocked pet supply store. Another
reason not to use human shampoos is that they frequently contain
conditioners. It takes longer to dry the dog if there is any residue left
in the coat. If a conditioner is used it takes longer to rinse out the
shampoo and the more likely some will be left behind.
Handheld shower head- This bit of equipment is very handy for bathing
your dog. Ideally, it should have an combination off/on and volume flow
control on the shower head that can be operated easily with one hand while
you are washing or holding the dog still with the other.
Scissors & Thinning Shears - This no place to cut corners. A good
pair of scissors will be expensive, but with proper care and maintainance,
will last for years. Both Oster and Solingen are well known brands. Expect
to pay about $100 per pair. You will need a pair of thinning shears also.
These are especially useful for getting rid of unwanted hair without leaving
an obvious cut line. If you have a breed that requires a top knot or
pompons, they make scissors with curved blades. One of the newer scissor on
the market has blunted ends. These are used for getting rid of the hair
between pads and are much safer for the novice or in experienced groomer.
Clippers/ Blades/ Snap-on Combs - Clippers are electric shears and
are required to groom many different breeds. The most well known among
groomers is the Oster brand, but Wahl, used for many years by barbers and
hairdressers, and Andis are making inroads into the pet grooming market. The
most useful models have detachable blades and all of them offer a
rechargable model. Blades come in a variety of sizes from the most fine #40
to the most coarse #4, they also come in different widths. There are also
snap-on combs available that reduce the clipping and scissoring time. For
instance, the #1 comb used with the #10 blade leaves a 1" coat length. In
contrast, the #4 bladeused alone leaves a coat length of 5/8".
Blow dryers- Also known as forced air dryers, these are not a luxury
but a necessity for the long-coated or double-coated breeds. The price for
the 4 HP Commander runs about $130 in the catalogs and so does the Edemco
F800 model.You can spend several hundred for the higher end models. For
instance the Edemco F880 and F890 range from about $265 to $410. In a pinch
you can also use the exhaust end of your vacuum cleaner if you can rig up
some type of filter. The point here is DO NOT use a human hair dryer as they
generate entirely too much heat. This will over dry and damage your dogs
coat. The doggie dryers blow the water off and produce a stream of air that
is only slightly warm.The one exception to using heat is to straighten out a
long curly coat.
Grooming Table- This is an added expense that is well worth the cost
if you have 1)a small dog, 2) a medium dog, 3) a large dog , 4) an unruly
dog, 5) a bad back, or 6) if you just don?t have the time or inclination to
mess around. You can expect to pay from $120 to $170 for the minimum models
and for the professional handler and/or groomer there are deluxe models that
feature hydraulic or electric lift capabilities, diffused under-lighting and
a lazy susan device that allows you to groom a small dog without ever having
to move around the table-These would definitly be for the more enthusiastic
hobbiest as the price can range from $400 to over $1,100. A suction type
bathmat on a kitchen table also works well if it is not a control problem.
Available also are wire crates that come with a reinforced rubber mat that
clips to the top of the cage and are suitable for the small or medium
weight dog. Various types of grooming stands are convenient if another hand
is needed or to prevent the dog from jumping off the grooming table. From
both of the authors perspectives there ought to be a law against grooming
tables that do not come with easily adjustable grooming arms to which you
tether the dog.
Techniques
Brushing and Combing - This MUST be done BEFORE bathing. If you have a
long or double coated breed, any loose hair will 'felt up' if it gets wet
and the resultant mats and tangles will be almost impossible to untangle.
Physical removal of dirt and foreign objects with a slicker or other brush
or a comb is quicker and easier than chemical removal with soaps and
solvents. Those of you who have tried to wet dense undercoats of northern
breeds will identify with the difficulty of getting that coat thoroughly wet
if it has not been wire brushed first...something to do with capillary
action along aligned strands of hair rather than horizontal wicking in
non-aligned hair. Before washing, some swear by simultaneously brushing and
blowing out a dog to get rid of dust that tends to go to mud when wetted,
and to get rid of any loose hair. This technique can save you hours of
brushing.
Short coated breeds
These breeds are almost always in a 'continuous shed', i.e., they lose their
hair constantly as opposed to those dogs who lose coat once or twice a year.
A rough washcloth or a grooming mitt is usually all that is necessary to
remove the excess hair and prevent it from getting all over your furniture
and your clothes. Contrary to popular opinion, this type of hair is the most
difficult to remove as it becomes imbedded in the clothing fibers, so it
behooves one to remove it once or twice a week. A curry comb made of rubber
or plastic is very effective in loosening the hair and also has the added
benefit of stimulating the skin. This is a good thing. Start at the withers
where the back meets the neck, and brush in a circular motion along the top,
sides and belly. Use a slicker brush or a short hard bristle brush to remove
the excess hair, then use the same equipment for the legs and tail. Use a
damp wash cloth for the head and neck. See EARS.
Poodle
This type of dog requires the most extensive and complex grooming
procedures. The tools needed are expensive and the time comitment heavy.
Even the pet patterned clips can be quite intricate and labor intensive.
These include the Puppy Clip, the Kennel Clip, the Sporting Clip, the Dutch
Clip, the Town and Country Clip, the Bishon/Poodle Clip, the Teddy Bear Clip
and the Bikini Clip. We suggest that you find a mentor in the breed to teach
you how to take care of your dog, although there are some videos available
that cover the more basic principals. You will need an electric clipper, a
variety of blades and clip-on combs, a blow dryer (free- standing table
style),and some very expensive scissors. Alternatively, we direct you to
the last section of this article How to Find A Good Groomer.
Wire and Harsh coated breeds (most are double coated)
There is a great deal of difference in the grooming of these breeds
depending on whether they are to used for show or are just pets. If your dog
is a pet then it is perfectly okay to clip the coat, however, the clipping
causes both loss of color and texture. The show dog must be hand stripped or
plucked to remove the dead hair as these are dogs that do not shed their
coat without some help. Both of these techniques are labor intensive. Start
the process by chalking the dog with French chalk, a low-dust type sold
especially for grooming. This helps to grip the hair and prevents slipping.
Using the thumb and first finger grasp a small amount of hair and pull
gently but firmly in the same direction as the lie of the hair. This is
usually towards the rear or down. Hand stripping requires a stripping knife,
but the technique is similar. Grab a small section of hair with the knife,
place the thumb lengthwise along its length and firmly pull the hair out.
Twisting or pulling up will break the hair off instead of removing it from
the root. Besides the stripping knife, other specialized equipment for this
type of dog include the hound glove and the terrier palm pad. These can be
purchased at most dog shows, catalog sales or a well equipped kennel supply
house.
Long and Double coated breeds
This type of dog loses it's coat once or twice or more times a year, or in
dogspeak they 'blow' their coat. You can usually tell it is going to start
as the fur will begin to tuft up along the flanks. This is where having a
blow dryer will come in handy as it will save you hours and hours of
brushing, and the birds will love you. Oh! Did I forget to mention that it
is best to do this outdoors? The secret here is that you must be very
methodical when brushing out your dog. Start at the rear end and mentally
divide the dog up into sections. First brush with a pin brush and then comb
each segment, first with a coarse toothed comb and then with the fine one.
It is very helpful to dampen the coat with a spray bottle using a very
dilute solution of conditioner-the canine version of No More Tangles. If
there are mats, soak them in conditioner and gently tease them out with the
fine toothed comb. Extremely matted coats may have to be cut out or a
special grooming tool called a mat knife may be necessary. Author
Thorpe-Vargas opens up a pair of sharp scissors and 'saws' through the mats
from the skin outward. Regular grooming will prevent this problem. Using the
Samoyed as an example, brushing out the dog a couple of times a week, while
watching television will keep up the coat satisfactorily. Make this quality
time for you and your pet and don't forget the treats!
Bathing- Many techniques abound, the ideal situation, we believe, is
to have a waist-high bathtub with grooming post/arm and walk-up ramp for
medium and large dogs. For really small dogs, nothing really beats a large
stainless steel deep basin kitchen sink with a high rise faucet. What is
important to remember is that you will need to soap up and rinse the dog at
least twice. The first soaping does not really clean the dog, rather it
serves to break the surface tension and 'wet' the hair. First apply the
shampoo along the back working up as much lather as possible, do the same
with the belly, legs and the tail. The head, eyes and ears are the most
sensitive so if the dog is going to struggle, this is when it will happen.
Most groomers try to plug the ears with a cotton ball, but one good shake of
the head and your good intentions are for naught. A small nail brush is
quite effective for working suds into the face. This way you do not have to
apply soap directly to the face.That same nail brush is also useful for
scrubbing the hocks and the foot pads. Before rinsing the dog, try to scrape
the lather off using your hand. Rinse thoroughly between soapings .Check
this by squeezing the hair-if you see any bubbles, keep rinsing. For the
face, use a rough wash cloth to get most of the soap off and be sure to
block the nostrils with your hand or cloth to prevent a direct spray of
water up the nose. A bath can be a very enjoyable experience for the dog if
approached correctly. Have all you supplies, including towels, at hand so
that you never have to leave the dog unattended. This is very important even
if you have the dog tied to the wall. Be prepared to get WET.
Clipping- It's all in the wrist! The clippers should be held like one
holds a pencil and a minimum pressure should be exerted. Make short even
strokes WITH the lay of the hair. Going against the grain removes more hair
and is only done in very few clips. This is one dangerous tool and should
not be used by an inexperienced person. Try to find someone to teach you the
proper technique needed for your particular breed. As an example, when
clipping the face of a poodle, one streches the skin along the mouth so that
no skin is caught in the blades. This is not something one would know
without the help of a more experienced groomer. Not only can you cut the
dog, but if you allow the blade to heat up from friction, you can actually
give your dog a 2nd degree burn. Known as clipper burn, professional
groomers have several pair of clippers so that they can switch off when one
gets too hot. When you use a snap-on comb, the clipper is used against the
lie of the hair.
Scissoring- It is the scissoring that separates the professional from
the beginner, and it is here that the groomer can express themselves most
artistically. You are literally 'sculpting' the dog out of hair. Again, have
someone mentor you that is experienced in your breed. Hold the scissors in
such a way so the they are resting on your fingers, holding the bottom half
still, and scissor using just the thumb. This is best mastered using a wig.
Another suggestion to get more experience is to volunteer at your local
humane society, they would welcome your help as a clean well-groomed dog is
more likely to be adopted.
Grooming table- Always lift your animal off and on to the grooming
table. We have heard of dogs being injured by jumping off of grooming
tables. Especially with large breeds, the?equal and opposite reaction to
the force of jumping off can be enough to send the table flying, resulting
in a fall instead of an orderly and graceful jump down. Author
Thorpe-Vargas has trained her Sammies to put their front feet up on the
table, then she only has to pick up the rear legs to get them up. This is a
good technique for all large dogs, unless you are into weightlifting as
another form of recreation. One of the funniest pictures that comes to mind
is a petite woman attempting to lift a Mastiff directly onto the grooming
table. Take our word for it there is a better way. To get your dog off the
table place your arms right in back of the front legs and right in front of
the rear legs. Hold securely, turn and bend your knees while holding the
back straight. You will not have to hold the dog for long, and you will be
going with gravity as opposed to it when lifting a dog up onto the table.
For little dogs, you can grab just about any part of the dog and hoist it to
the table. Think of neck and tail for little fellows like some of the
terriers.
Blow drying- The longer the hair the closer to the skin you hold the
nozzle. This will prevent tangling. Lay the nozzle parallel to the skin and
blow the water off the hair from the skin outward. This is a good time to
check for parasites and skin problems.
Safety & Health Considerations
Fleas and Ticks- Regular grooming can apprise the pet owner of their
dogs status with regards to parasite infestation. Dogs do not normally
scratch ticks and they are possibly a worst health hazard than fleas.
Skin cancers and growths- A small tumor or polyp, whether benign or
malignant, should be dealt with as soon as possible. Only regular grooming
will catch these growths early, especially your heavily coated breeds.
Mats- A neglected coat is very painful for the dog. To imagine how it
feels to your pet, take and twist your hair and apply pressure until it
becomes painful. As stoic as most dogs are, their happiness and well-being
are in your hands, and certainly pain does not help to maintain a good
temperament.
Ears- This section is most important for those dogs with droop ears, but all
dogs need normal ear maintainance, not just when bathed. Your vet can
suggest a proper routine for your individual dog, although once a week is
usual. If you get water in your dogs ears while giving a bath irrigate with
an eye dropper, using a solution of half water and half isopropyl alcohol,
then dry with a cotton bal. The alcohol will help to dry out any residual
water left in the ear. DO NOT use a cotton swab unless directed by your vet.
One of the signals that there is water in the ear or another problem is
head shaking.This is especially dangerous for those breeds with heavy floppy
ears, like a Cocker Spaniel, as they can break a blood vessel in the ear and
cause a hematoma. These usually requires veterinary intervention.
The Unmentionable Anal glands- the physiological function of the anal glands
is to provide additional lubrication for the feces as they pass through the
constriction of the anal sphincter. The social function is as a scent
gland, by which the dogs can mark their territory. Unless you know what you
are doing, we recommend that you leave expressing anal sacs to your
veterinarian. Improper expression can lead to infection or impaction of the
anal glands.
Nails- This chore seems to be the most neglected one but really the toenails
should be done every two or three weeks. Left untrimmed the dog can actually
be thrown off balance. Those dogs who go jogging everyday on concrete won't
need it as often. Most owners are squeamish about the process because if
they cut too much off it will cut the quick, which has a nerve and blood
supply. You can see it in the white or lighter colored breeds. By nipping
off just a little every couple of days, the quick recedes and so does the
danger of hurting the dog. The directions for using the guillotine type are
included in the package. Unless you are using the grinder type the best time
to cut the nails is after they have been softened by a bath. Don't forget
the dewclaws! If you should make a mistake and cut too deeply there is a
product available called QuikStop. Some people use a softened bar of soap or
even flour to help with coagulation.
Do it yourself Doggymats
A phenomenon that is gaining popularity is the do it yourself doggie wash.
They provide all of the necessary equipment, shampoo, clippers, towels, blow
dryers, etc., and better yet they clean up the mess. Cost varies with the
size of the dog, but $10 dollars is about what you can expect to spend. This
is a great idea and they are often associated with a pet supply outlet, so
you can make it a one stop shopping trip.
How To Find a Good Groomer
OK...now that you realize how complex this process can be you have decided
that you would rather pay someone else to groom your dog. We suggest you do
not simply choose one out of the yellow pages. Ask for a referral, from your
vet, your breeder, a friend or that stranger walking that especially nice
looking dog. When you have a few names and numbers call and ask alot of
questions. Do they use tranquillizers? How long can you expect your pet to
be there? What training do they have? Do they handle dogs with medical
problems or geriatric dogs? Do they provide pick up and delivery? Will they
come to your home? What does it cost and what services do they offer? Are
they capable of grooming for the showring? What type of flea and tick
preparations do they use? If they take the time to answer your questions or
put you off politely to a more convenient time, then it is time to visit the
shop sans dog. Look to see that it is clean and well lighted, and that the
animal are treated well by all of the attendants. DO NOT take a puppy to a
groomer before they have had all their shots. To make your dogs visit to the
groomer a pleasant one for all concerned, you too have some obligations.
Formost is to warn the groomer of any medical or behavior problems the dog
might have. It is also your reponsibilitiy to teach your dog some manners
and to accept the ministrations of a stranger. You have of course taken your
dog to obedience class, right? Another point to remember is that the dog
will be required to spend some time in a crate so be sure your dog is not
stressed by this. Keep your dog up with regular brushing. A dog that is
matted is not going to enjoy the grooming process and you can not expect the
groomer to make up for your neglect in only one visit. An important point is
that this is a service profession and tips are gladly accepted.
Conclusion
Grooming is just one of the responsibilities associated with dog ownership,
but one that greatly impacts your dogs quality of life. Before you accept
that responsibility, make sure you choose a breed that suits your lifesyle
and that you have the time, inclination and physical ability to keep that
dog properly groomed. Even if you pay a groomer to do most of the work, you
will still need to brush your dog between visits. This should be an
enjoyable time for both of you and is part of the human/animal bonding
process.
For additional Information
Acme Pet's Canine Grooming Resource
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Help One, Help All Singapore Cats
I know some people are shaking their heads saying, "Why care about some
other country's homeless cat? Don't we have enough of our own?" But cats
are citizens of the world. They don't need passports. The response so
far -- from animal-lovers all over the world and not just in the US,
from children as well as adults -- says that compassion doesn't carry
any label of "made in the USA." Missy is the last of the hedge cats,
and what happens to her says a lot about all of us. Please help.
Peacock is being a pest again.
She insists that I ask you once again to help the Singapore cats. (If
you've already done everything you possibly can, go get yourself some
tuna and whipped cream. And then find someone else to help these cats.)
What's so special here?
Every nation has a problem of homeless animals. But Singapore is
different. The government itself has created a climate in which pets are
disposable and even private compassion is discouraged. Worse still, it
is a crime to criticize that government. A crime to express outrage
about policies creating intentional strays.
In Singapore, thousands of homeless cats and dogs are left to starve and
die. But in the wealthy Republic of Singapore, the government does not
spend a dime for shelters, rescue organizations and spay-neuter. The
only animal organization is the SPCA, which receives no government
funding and which was forced to euthanize 9883 animals last year while
finding homes for only a few. The government's PPD collected another
10,000; that department is responsible for collecting trash, not
helping homeless animals.
How to deal with the problem of homeless animals? This is what PPD
spokesman S.Y. Goh says, "The most effective way to keep the numbers of
strays in check is not to feed them." Not spay-neuter, not humane
shelters, not support for rescue organizations. Just don't feed them and
they will "go away" -- but there is no place left to go on the island of
Singapore. Recently, an elderly woman was arrested for feeding homeless
cats.
Much of the problem is intentional. In the 1970s, the government opened new
housing developments and ordered citizens to turn in their animals
for euthanasia. Some refused and left their animals to the streets. Now,
homeless animals have no place to go but to parts of the city scheduled
for another wave of massive economic development. Some Singaporeans
dump the kittens they've acquired on the street to celebrate the New
Year; it is said to "bring good luck." Others dump pets after a few
months, when they are no longer amusing toys.
Public education? This is one "children's story" the government proudly
posts on its website: A little girl has a goldfish, but her brother gets
a cat who eats the goldfish. She retaliates by getting a St. Bernard,
who tries to eat the cat and tips over furniture in the process. Dad
intervenes, telling the children they do not know how to take care of
pets and that both the cat and dog must go back to the "pet store."
That same government has a poster at the government airport showing the
happy face of a homeless cat.
There are two things we can do now:
1. PETITION THE GOVERNMENT OF SINGAPORE FOR KINDNESS TO ANIMALS
Send your own message to me with copy to janalee@pacific.net.sg and be
sure to say whether your name can be used or just your initials and your
city/state or country.
If you only have a second, read this:
I urge the government of Singapore to fund spay/neuter, humane shelters
and rescue organizations, safe havens for homeless cats, public
education and everything else in its power to become an international
model of commitment to kindness to animals.
Then just hit the reply button for e-mail and type "I AGREE," but if you
use this form, you'll have to give your name and city/state or country
such as JSmith, NYC, because anonymous agreement with a form petition is
not going to be taken seriously. Do try to send an individual e-mail if
you can though.
Your voice will then be added to give a voice for the homeless animals
of
Singapore. (It would be even better to write your own brief message).
2. RELOCATE TIGGER AND MISSY
By the time we're done, relocating 4 Singapore hedge cats -- KitKat,
Julius, Tigger and Missy -- to the US for foster care and adoption homes
will cost as much as a tourist trip to Singapore. By rescuing these few
cats among thousands, we're saying that's how we'd rather spend our
money until the government of Singapore itself. These cats speak for so
many who have no hope. They are citizens of the world.
Thanks to the generosity of animal-lovers not just in the US but
internationally, there now are funds for KitKat, Julius and Tigger,
while mom cat Missy waits. Julius will live on the West Coast and
Peacock eagerly awaits her new sister KitKat, while kitten Tigger isn't
sure where she will go in the US and Missy wonders if she will have a
home at all. But if she can get to the US, Missy can stay at Pet Action League
www.petrescue.com/pal/index. The Daileys at Pet Animal Rescue near
Orlando, Florida can give Missy
all the time she wants -- with no cage. She can sit on a lap or walk in
the woods, she's welcome on the bed if
she chooses -- while she gets her bearings about becoming a housecat..
Whether she decides to go to an adoption home or tomake Pet
Action League her home for life, she'll get the individual attention she
needs.
Tigger is a 12-week silver tabby, spayed already, FeLV and FIV negative,
with rabies and distemper shots, worming and flea-bath. She's the sole
survivor of Missy's second litter, and although she has approached for
petting, she is upset about being in a boarding cage in Singapore while
her rescuers try to find her a foster home in the US that will give her
individual attention and patience. With that attention, she will become
a good pet -- and a very smart one. Ideal would be placement on the West
Coast, to minimize travel time and to avoid hot destination airports. Or
in the Washington DC area in spite of heat, where KitKat's new home will
be? Missy, her tortoiseshell mother, is more wary. It is how she has
beaten the odds to survive 12-18 months. It is likely that Missy was
dumped when she was still a kitten; dumping dark tortoiseshell kittens
is reputed to give particularly "good luck."
No one taking Tigger or Missy will be expected to pay any of the costs,
which include vet, pre-flight boarding (just forget about finding foster
care in Singapore) travel documents and air travel. But good references
are essential. These cats deserve a home, not a cage. They need reason
to trust humans.
Can you donate just a few dollars? Can you offer Tigger a foster home or
adoption?
Please visit the Peacock's Friends update for more information
http://www.wizard.net/~peacock/kitkat4.htm
Before moving on to the whole story to Help Homeless Singapore Cats at
http://www.best.com/mtyler/yourpage4.htm.
Please do whatever you can. And let me know your questions.
Aleta
Links
http://www.wizard.net/~peacock/home.htm
Peacock's Friends: connecting homeless cats and human friends in the
Washington DC area.
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