Women's Collection Spring Summer 1999


     
  Venturing monochrome: a neat chromatic surface interrupted by lines, marks, cuts. As in the paradox of art. Thus low necklines and fine deep slits snipped on the heavy white or black wool double trace the shape graphically. Ever body-skimming at the waist. Box seams, invisible zips, no buttons, intersecting cuts create new planes and new dimensions in just-below-the-knee dresses, in two pieces, in tops over pants.
If "the material is static", as Lucio Fontana would say, light is what marks the rhythms and volumes. On the full-textured and yarn-waterproofed faille, delicate scratches of clear crystal sparkle at each step amidst the swirling pleats of ultrapure dresses. Of skirts, too, worn with little cashmere sweaters for deliberately informal evenings.
On the featherweight leather - for the first time ever from Mila Schön - exquisitely calibrated cuts like a sunray pattern of drops call forth the inner/outer precept that's a current imprint of art.
Silk jersey and grisaille give firmness to dusters, to short-straight-jacket suits, to geometrically-perfect dresses. Layers of organza over irregular flows of sequins. Raffia in a wave-effect weave. Layers of tulle embroidered in a different sense. Inner broderies in raffia, jais and metal that experiment with different concepts of light, material, technique.
Pale and pearly hues: sky blues, sand, clear quartz tones.
 
 
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