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Clothes
as a means of discovering and expressing one's personality with total freedom.
This is the basis of Giorgio Armani's concept for the Spring/Summer 1999
collection. He shows a gentle, attractive woman, who is very feminine
and self confidant enough not to need to flaunt her sex appeal, and who
is such a citizen of the world that she is seduced by the mood of the Orient.
Subtle references to the body are the focal point of the collection.
For example, the fragility of slim shoulders and arms is underlined by
narrow sleeves. Close fitting bodices and cigarette shaped trousers
outline the silhouette and the use of soft colors - pale, pastel and powdery
tones - and luxurious fabrics such as silk, linen, shantung, organza and
georgette enhance this feeling of softness and femininity. What are the
must haves for spring? The shirt jackets which can be worn like a
cardigan; the jackets with invisible fastenings; the jackets in double
georgette - all super lightweight, comfortable and deconstructed to erase
the stereotype of suits; T-shirts and bodies in jersey which replace the
shirt; ankle length skirts and trousers; the new sportswear looks with
exotic shapes and the neutral and grey colors which are co-ordinated with
powdery blues, 'wisteria' green and light purple. The colors are
as calm for day as they are brilliant for night where the prints on white,
grey and aquamarine silk gauze are covered with transparent and iridescent
sequins; where a series of long dresses in a jade color are embroidered
with glass baguette beads of various sizes; where the flash of bright colors
such as shocking pink, mango and orangery red, embroidered with Chinese-style
patterns, is toned down by a veil of tulle. Tube shapes, deep decolletès
and bare shoulders are predominant.
Accessories are
easy and functional and serve to remind us that Armani's gentle, seductive
woman next Spring can change fashion without changing her style. |
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