|
|
|
 |
Philippines |  |
      |
 |
(6th
Edition)
|
Introduction We've listed the information here in the same way it is laid out in the book so it's easy to find your way around. Upgrades don't replace the guides – they add important information gathered since the current edition of the book was published. You can print them out and stick them in the back of your current guide. This Upgrade was posted in August 1998. Be aware that things keep changing – even after we post these Upgrades. Always check the latest information on visa requirements and safety warnings with your embassy or consulate before you leave. |
The biggest change to hit the Philippines lately is the country's new president. The economy's still terminally ill, and rampant foreign interests are making sure it stays that way. Manila is more than ever a megalopolitan mishap, although alternative entry/exit points for foreign travellers are emerging by popular demand. Down south, civil unrest continues to make parts of Mindanao dodgy for travellers and locals – talk of a grudgingly government-backed independence deal for the mainly Muslim island has risen to just above a whisper. Environmental mayhem goes on unabated (caused by humans and by nature), but a boom in scuba diving may just help save the country's greatest assets – its thousands of idyllic reef-ringed islands.
Facts about the Country
ECOLOGY & ENVIRONMENT
Forests on the formerly pristine island of Palawan have recently come under threat from loggers as well as bush fires, and a wide range of all-too-efficient fishing methods continue to deplete Philippine waters and kill off precious coral reefs. Much of the easy cash behind dynamite and cyanide fishing comes from Japanese and Chinese big business.Other news of late as been the 'discovery' of whale sharks in the waters off the tiny town of Donsol, in South Luzon. Of course, the local fisherfolk have known about these plankton-feeding giants for generations, but now biologists, scuba divers and tourists are keen to get a piece of the action. While celebrating what is hoped will be an annual appearance (from around November to May), environmentalists have warned that giving the whale sharks – and Donsol – too much attention too fast could have disastrous effects. If you want to take a dip with the whale sharks, hire a responsible boat operator, and give these fantastic sea creatures plenty of room to move.
Endangered Species
The nation's list of endangered species isn't getting any shorter – nor is it as thorough as it should be. Filipino seahorses, despite a 70% population plunge, aren't on the list because there's too much money to be made exporting them live or selling them dead and dried as souvenirs or aphrodisiacs. Travellers are likely to see them on sale in markets around the country and, most recently, at the Puerto Princesa airport in Palawan. Environmental groups recently warned that at this rate the seahorse may be wiped out within 10 years, so don’t be tempted into buying any.For heaps more information on Filipino creatures clinging to existence, contact the Haribon Foundation (Tel/fax 712 2601; email emc010@wtouch.com.ph), 3rd floor, AM Bldg, 28 Quezon Ave, Quezon City, Manila. They also have a Web site:
www.haribon.org.phCLIMATE
Like much of Asia, the Philippines has been suffering horribly from El Ni±o, a weather phenomenon bringing unusually long and merciless dry spells. Although not a regular occurrence, El Ni±o's presence will be felt for many years to come, particularly on the islands of Palawan and Mindanao, where rice yields have shrivelled by almost half. In a cruel case of meteorological mockery, El Ni±o's sister, La Ni±a, is set to take over in the latter half of 1998, unleashing heavy rainstorms and flash floods.GOVERNMENT & POLITICS
In July 1998, former B-grade movie actor and professional favourite son, Joseph Estrada, officially eased himself onto the presidential throne after a jumbo-sized election victory that blasted all other candidates – including the wife of the former president and dictator, Ferdinand Marcos – out of the water. So ended the rather colourless term of Fidel Ramos, a canny politician who ultimately failed to capture the Filipino heart. The neat, sober persona of Ramos couldn't be further from the swaggering, lecherous Estrada juggernaut. Economically ignorant and poor at English he might be, but at least Estrada – like so many of his working class supporters – knows how to have fun.To quote one Estrada voter during the election landslide: 'We've had many smart presidents and nothing has changed. Maybe it's time we had one who is not so smart.'
ECONOMY
In early 1998, the nation recorded a 1.7% Gross Domestic Product (GDP) growth rate which was trumpeted as great news by the then Ramos government because, well, it could have been worse. In reality, the GDP growth rate was cancelled out by a 2.3% annual population growth rate and more than 40% of families are living below the poverty line. Only a politician could twist that into something worth cheering about. Likewise, only political hype and economic sorcery could have spawned the impossibly low one-year inflation rate of 7.3% in early 1998. Even self-confessed economic dunce President Estrada could work out that such a figure doesn't add up in a year when average rental prices have risen by around 30%, water rates by as much as 100%, transport costs by 40%, food prices by 30% and labour costs by 15%.Despite all the talk of economic reform under the former Ramos administration, and the billions of dollars repaid to creditors, the nation's foreign debt is bigger than it's ever been – far bigger than it was even during the Ferdinand Marcos dictatorship. Add the combined climatic forces of El Ni±o and La Ni±a to what is principally an agrarian economy, and Estrada looks to be the proud owner of a bankrupt government.
Facts for the Visitor
TOURIST OFFICES
Manila's Department of Tourism (DOT) office (Tel 02-523 8411), in the DOT Bldg, TM Kalaw St, Ermita, isn't all it's cracked up to be. Staff are friendly, but computer printouts for specific areas are out of date and the piles of brochures available can be found at the various regional DOT offices around the country, usually along with more practical and current information.MONEY
'Sorry, no change' becomes a familiar line in the Philippines. During the elections, this was because party officials were cleaning banks out of P100 and P500 bills to buy votes (seriously!). But shop owners, taxi drivers and even banks can be short of small notes at the best of times. So stock up – especially on notes smaller than P100 – at every opportunity. Despite the price-plunging Asian financial crisis, dining and accommodation in the Philippines are still a bit pricey compared to many neighbouring countries. Generally, travellers will find that restaurants and hotels have upped their prices by about 10-20% since 1997. Transport costs have risen by about 5% on average.As many readers have pointed out, the Philippines seems to have something against travellers cheques. Even in Manila, banks and moneychangers can be reluctant to cash them. And don't be surprised if those banks that do change cheques only do so between 9 and 10 am, or only at limited branches ... or only on Friday during a lunar eclipse when Mars is in Virgo and your name is Reginald. Of the banks, the best bet is usually the PCI Bank, or the Hong Kong & Shanghai Bank, Ayala Ave, Makati. Don't forget to take along your passport and purchase receipts. Needless to say, cash tends to get a better rate than cheques.
With most major credit cards you can withdraw as much as P20,000 per day from any Equitable or PCI Bank ATM. Some ATMs, however, limit withdrawals to as little as P3000 for no apparent reason. There are now ATMs in cities and towns throughout the country, but it's a good idea to use them only during banking hours (9 am to 3 pm, Monday to Friday). If you're really caught short, Swagman Travel (Manila Tel 02-523 8541), with offices in all the tourist spots, will give unlimited cash advances on credit cards with a killer 8% commission.
Exchanging Money
It’s always risky to pin down a currency on paper (or on screen), so try this currency converter to give you the current value of the peso:
http://www.oanda.comVISAS & DOCUMENTS
Try this link to work out visa requirements for any nationality in the world: http://www.travel.com.au/destination/index.htmlPOST & COMMUNICATIONS
Postal rates have risen in 1998. Air mail letters (per 20g) within the Philippines now cost P6 (ordinary/three weeks), P11 within Asia, P13 to Australasia and the Middle East, P15 to Europe and North America, and P18 to Africa and South America. Aerograms and postcards cost P8, regardless of their destination.International phone calls can be made from many hotels or from one of the fast-multiplying offices of PLDT, PT & T, or other telecommunications companies. It's not cheap, with the average deal about P375 for the first five minutes, and P60 for every minute after that. For collect (reverse charges) calls, a flat fee of about P11 is charged. You can also reverse charges yourself by dialling 105 followed by your country code.
Email Services
Internet cafes are logging on at a rapid rate in even the smallest towns. Some are franchises, some are one-offs. One of the biggest names is MosCom, which has outlets in 32 cities and towns, from Angeles to Zamboanga:
mozcom4.mozcom.com/help/sitemap.htmlIn Manila, most of the big shopping malls have one or more cybercafes. Costs vary from place to place – expect anything from P25 to P75 per half hour. Most of the big shopping malls in Manila have at least one Internet cafe. A common name in this category is Universe Cybercafe, which has a branch at the Glorietta shopping centre (Tel 840 1088) in Makati, among others. Also, the painfully groovy Coffee California Internet group has several Internet outlets, including one on the 2nd floor of the brand new Pan Pacific Hotel, on the corner of Adriatico and General Miguel Malvar Sts, Malate. It's called the Indiana Cafe. The average rate in Manila is around P60 per half hour.
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
Tampons have become far more widely available than they used to be (average price: P150 for a box of eight), but it’s still a good idea to stock up.
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
There are well established gay cruising places or 'beats' in Manila, but you should still beware of police and hustlers. For brilliant, up-to-date info about how to have a great time being gay, bi or lesbian in the Philippines, check out the Filipino Queer Directory Web site:
www.tribo.org/bakla/bakla.htmlDANGERS & ANNOYANCES
The dangers may often be exaggerated, but you should still be careful when travelling by bus in Mindanao – guerrilla shoot-ups are as real as ever. Tourist offices in most Mindanao cities will advise you about which routes are safe and which ones to forget. Buses between Cagayan de Oro and Zamboanga are said to have been targets of terrorist attacks recently.As for annoyances, this one's certainly not new but it's never really been mentioned before: Filipinos have a unique greeting for male (and sometimes female) westerners: 'Hey Joe!' or 'Hey Kano!' Both are hangovers from American colonial days and both are used ad nauseam. Of course, if your name's Joe and you're American then you'll feel pretty special. If not, you may start to feel like a clown sent especially from the States to give the locals a laugh. Pack a big supply of patience.
Scams, pickpockets and rip-offs are as common in the Philippines as anywhere else. One regular Philippines visitor has offered some good advice: 'Be wary of people who approach you and are too friendly and want you to go with them somewhere. Just say "salamat" (thank you) and keep walking. Taxi drivers should use their meters. Those who want a set rate after asking you where you're going should be sent on their way. Another taxi will be along any moment. Don't make a scene with anyone, always just politely dismiss someone. Just use a bit of common sense and you will enjoy the Philippines.'
Source: Phil, (Jun 98)INTERNET RESOURCES
For more up to date information on the Philippines, try the following links:For a fantastically thorough pile of local news and views, go to the Philippine News Link, which includes links to all the main daily newspapers:
http://www.philnews.comTo help you survive the country's crazy capital, two sites list the latest concerts, movies and other often needed escapist pursuits:
Manilaguide:
http://www.manilaguide.comMetroGuide:
www.metromanila.com.phGreat overall Philippine sites include the highly informative Go Philippines! site: http://www.gopi.com
The vast Tanikalang Ginto web directory offers many links:
http://www.filipinolinks.comFor info on scuba diving, dip into Dive Buddies Philippines:
http://www.divephil.comAnd if you want to add a little colour to your local lingo, try the Filipino Dirty Words Web site:
pubweb.acns.nwu.edu/~flip/dirty.htmlGetting There & Away
AIR
Philippine Airlines (PAL) – the national carrier – has been experiencing heavy turbulence. Big debts and a crippling strike in mid-1998 have seen a number of domestic and international routes cancelled (including all services to Australia) and a large storm cloud form over the airline's future. While foreign and domestic airlines are currently looking to increase their workload, only time can tell how these upheavals may influence airfares – not to mention air safety.Although Cebu City, Davao and Laoag now have international airports, Manila is unfortunately still the main gateway of the country. Cebu City’s Mactan Island international airport is a much more pleasant first stop, and its popularity is growing thanks to services by the likes of Cathay Pacific, Malaysian Airlines and Singapore Airlines. Bouraq Airlines now flies twice weekly between Davao in Mindanao, and Manado in Indonesia.
Airport departure tax is now a flat P500 in Manila, Cebu City, Davao and Laoag.
SEA
International passenger services are still pretty scarce, but one route that's becoming popular with backpackers is the monthly run between Davao in Mindanao and Manado in Indonesia (US$10-65; 36 hours) with Pelni Lines' MV Tilongkabila.There’s also said to be two regular shipping routes between Zamboanga in Mindanao, and Sandakan, in Malaysia – thanks to Aleson Shipping and Sampaguita Shipping. Economy fares are around P600 to 800. Apparently, you can also sail between Mindanao’s General Santos City, and Bitung, in Indonesia.
Getting Around
AIR
For now, PAL (Manila Tel 02-816 6691) still has the biggest range of domestic flights and its fares are reasonable (eg, Manila to Cebu City around P1500). And as long as the airline stays solvent, you can save around P200 if you book four days before departure; and even more if you book eight days beforehand.But as one traveller points out: `Philippine Airlines has really gutted its service, especially from former mini-hubs like Cebu. It seems like every flight left goes to or from Manila, making it much harder than before to string flights together.’
Source: Rusty Cartmill, (Jun 98)As long as rumours of bankruptcy surround PAL, you should get to know the smaller domestic airlines which offer a wide range of fares, flights and standards. These include:
Air Ads (Tel 02-833 3264)
Air Philippines (Tel 02-843 7770)
Asian Spirit (Tel 02-551 1723)
Cebu Pacific (Tel 02-636 4938)
GrandAir (Tel 02-524 1784)
Pacific Airways (Tel 02-832 2731)BUS
Buses are still the prime long-distance people movers in the Philippines and they remain a cheap and relatively reliable way to get around. Typical fares from Manila for ordinary (as opposed to air-con) buses include: Alaminos (237km; P115), Baguio (250km; P120), Batangas (110km; P60), Olongapo (126km; P80) and Legaspi (544km; P260). For air-con buses, you’ll usually pay 15-20% more. You’ll also need to be an early riser, because most air-con buses head off around dawn.You should also look out for L-300 minibuses, which are now used in many parts of the Philippines as rivals to regular buses. Operated privately, these vehicles usually hang around the car parks near bus depots and take passengers to popular destinations in air-con comfort, normally at very competitive rates. The drawback is that drivers hate to head off with half empty vehicles, so you may have to wait indefinitely, or pay extra to leave straight away.
TRAIN
Despite recent talk of expansion, the Philippine long-distance rail system remains limited to just one route south from Manila to the Bicol region. Although cheap, it's much slower and less reliable than the bus services and it's not recommended. Locals claim trains regularly get pelted with stones as they head through the slum areas.In Manila, as the traffic grows steadily worse, the Metrorail (or Metro Rail Transit, MRT) is more of a godsend than ever before. The trains get crowded during rush hour, but they still move faster than the road traffic. The line extends north as far as Monumento (North Terminal) in Caloocan City, and south to Baclaran (South Terminal), close to the airport. The fare has risen to a flat P10 and trains now run daily from 5 am until 9 pm.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Despite new road systems and all sorts of innovative schemes, Philippine traffic jams are still a big part of life. In Manila, one plan involves vehicles being forced to park on only one side of the street in a desperate attempt to reduce double parking. On the islands less travelled, roads are often unsealed even around provincial capitals, making tricycle and motorbike jaunts very shaky. In the wet, many of these roads become rivers of sludge. When this happens (and it’s not restricted to the July-December rainy season) islands such as Mindoro, Palawan, Samar and even parts of Luzon are best explored by sea or air.Apart from international companies like Avis (Tel 02-526 2847) and Hertz (Tel 02-832 0520), there are more than enough local car rental companies, many of which can be found in the Manila tourist area, Ermita. Swagman Travel (Tel 02-524 5816) also has a good range of deals, and cars can be picked up and dropped off at the various offices.
Rentals are generally offered on a daily or weekly basis, with or without the added expense of a driver. The average newish drive-yourself four-seater sedan will cost around P1000 per day (plus fuel). Most places demand that you are not less than 21 and not more than 65 years old. An international driver’s license shouldn’t be necessary. A clause in the rental agreement small print also says cars can only be driven on surfaced roads: this really cramps your style in this part of the world.
Motorcycles and motor scooters can be rented in just about every tourist spot. In more remote areas, just ask around. A 125cc Honda or Suzuki will cost you P500 to P700 per day. A helmet should be worn, but finding one can be difficult.
WALKING
As a pedestrian, be aware that zebra (pedestrian) crossings are often merely for decoration. Never assume cars will stop for you. Traffic lights also tend to be regarded as optional. Be particularly wary after dark, when some drivers don’t even slow down for a red light.Boat
Boats range from the high class multi-decked WG & A/SuperFerry ships and luxury passenger catamarans, to the smallest of outriggers (known locally as bangcas, or pumpboats).Ferry prices vary widely, but as a guide, the average fare between Manila and Cebu City is around P700 (22 hours), and between Manila and Puerto Princesa it’s about P550 (20 hours). Inquire about student discounts: some shipping lines give 20-30%.
Travellers should note that there are a number of infamous routes, most of which involve bangcas attempting open sea crossings in rough weather (eg Palawan to Panay, and Panay to Mindoro) or ageing tubs being dangerously overcrowded (eg the MV Romblon to/from Romblon Island).
One traveller has echoed the comments of many with the news that the road from El Nido to TayTay is 'almost impassable during the rainy season and in my opinion too dangerous to travel. Another way by boat is much faster and if you can find some other people to split the costs it's not expensive (around P 1300).'
Source: Bart, the Netherlands (May 98)As he also says, El Nido and Liminangcong (and Port Barton further on) are now linked by large bangca boats, with Liminangcong now a busy sea transport hub.
LOCAL TRANSPORT
On islands such as Palawan, long-haul road trips are made by jeepney-bus hybrids (overgrown jeepneys with the seats facing forward). On these and other long-distance vehicles, sit on the right and you’ll swallow less dust from the oncoming traffic.Essential Lonely Planet Resources
Don' t stop here in your search for up to date information on travelling in the Philippines. Guidebooks and Upgrades provide a neat snapshot of the place as it was when the author was last there, but for the very latest news, travellers’ reports and embassy advice, check the following sections of the Lonely Planet Web site.
Scoop û Philippines News Archive
Postcards û Travellers' Reports From the Philippines
The Thorn Tree û South-East Asia Travellers' Bulletin Board
Propaganda û Lonely Planet's Latest Guides to the Philippines, Pilipino phrasebook, South-East Asia on a shoestring
Destinations û Lonely Planet's Online Mini Guide to the PhilippinesThanks for Your Feedback
Things change – prices go up, schedules change, good places go bad and bad places go bankrupt – nothing stays the same. So, if you find things are better or worse, recently opened or long since closed, please tell us and help make the next guidebook and Upgrade even more accurate and useful. You'll get a nice warm inner glow from helping other travellers avoid pitfalls and gain from your experiences, both good and bad.
We genuinely value the feedback we receive from travellers. Julie Young coordinates a well-travelled team that reads and acknowledges every letter, postcard and email and ensures that every morsel of information finds its way to the appropriate authors, editors and cartographers and to other travellers.
Everyone who writes to us will find their name in the next edition of the appropriate guidebook. They will also receive the latest issue of Planet Talk, our quarterly printed newsletter, or Comet, our monthly email newsletter. Subscriptions to both newsletters are free. The very best contributions will be rewarded with a free guidebook.
Excerpts from your correspondence may appear in new editions of Lonely Planet guidebooks, online Upgrades, Planet Talk, Comet or the Postcards section of our Web site, so please let us know if you don't want your letter published or your name acknowledged.
Email us at: talk2us@lonelyplanet.com.au
Or send all correspondence to the Lonely Planet office closest to you:
Australia: PO Box 617, Hawthorn, Victoria 3122
France: 1 rue du Dahomey, 75011 Paris
UK: 10a Spring Place, London NW5 3BH
USA: 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607Special thanks to the following travellers, whose contributions formed part of this Upgrade: Bart, Kate Butcher, Phil, Rusty Cartmill.
Although we have tried to make the information in Upgrades as accurate as possible, the authors and publishers accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by any person using this Upgrade.
