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(6th Edition)
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Introduction The information in this Upgrade comes from Lonely Planet author Chris Rowthorn, who co-authored Lonely Planet's guide to Japan, media reports and unconfirmed reports from travellers. Fellow travellers can be one of the best sources of information around and their letters make great reading, but they can sometimes be mistaken. Be smart and treat their tips with caution until you check things out for yourself. We've listed the information here in the same way it is laid out in the book so it's easy to find your way around. Upgrades don't replace the guides - they add important information gathered since the current edition of the book was published. You can print them out and stick them in the back of your current guide. This Upgrade was posted in December 1998. Be aware that things keep changing - even after we post these Upgrades. Always check the latest information on visa requirements and safety warnings with your embassy or consulate before you leave. |
Along with the rest of Asia, Japan is suffering from the effects of a regional recession that began in Thailand last year. Fortunately, things are more stable in Japan than in other areas of Asia, and the short-term visitor is unlikely to notice any major changes. The only thing you're likely to notice is the favorable exchange rate (because of the weakened yen).
Facts about the Country
ECOLOGY & ENVIRONMENT
Environmental pollution has been in the news recently, most notably over dioxin contamination near Osaka. Fortunately the government has been quick to organise cleanup efforts.The good news is that recycling programs are getting under way across much of the country and in some cities it's now possible to recycle cans, PET bottles, empty milk cartons and styrofoam containers. It's best to ask at the point of purchase or look for the recycle symbol on products (it's easily recognisable).
GOVERNMENT & POLITICS
The LDP (Liberal Democratic Party) lost 17 seats in July's upper house election, reflecting the public's frustration with the party's inability to stimulate Japan's ailing economy. Prime Minister Ryutaro Hashimoto stepped down after the election, taking the blame for his party's dismal results. Another LDP man, Keizo Obuchi, was quickly chosen as his successor. Obuchi, a long-time Tokyo insider, was viewed with disdain by almost all commentators, who felt that he lacked the dynamism to make the hard changes necessary to kick-start the Japanese economy. Obuchi has nevertheless been working hard with his own party and opposition parties to reform the Japanese economy.ECONOMY
Japan was already in a recession when it was swept up in the Asian economic crisis that began in Thailand in July 1997. While conditions are not as bad as in Indonesia, Malaysia or Thailand, the country has suffered a significant slowdown. In June, the yen fell to 146 against the dollar and, in September, the stock market fell to a post-war low. To make matters worse, for the first time since the oil shocks of the seventies Japan recorded two successive quarters of negative economic growth. The infrastructure of the country is still sound and life goes on, albeit a little less exuberantly than before.Facts for the Visitor
TOURIST OFFICES
There is a TIC in the rebuilt Kyoto Station. Follow the signs to the 'Kyoto City Tourist Information Center'. It's on the second floor, at the top of the west escalator. English speakers are usually on hand, but if you have a difficult question you will be referred to the main TIC outside the station. You will also find a JR information counter on the ground floor of the station, but it is unlikely that English speakers will be on hand. Nonetheless, they should be able to answer simple questions relating to fare, track number and departure times.One traveller reports that the Japanese National Tourist Organization (JNTO) is much more efficient by post than by phone:
`The Japan National Tourist Organization provides brilliant service if you request information be sent to you. However, if you contact them by telephone, the service is nowhere near as comprehensive (that is, if you can get through!).'
Source: Jo Rumble, Japan (Jul 98)JNTO's address is: B1f, Tokyo International Forum, 3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100.
VISAS & DOCUMENTS
Travellers report that Japanese immigration authorities are getting increasingly strict on those who re-enter the country on multiple tourist visas. If you are coming in on your second or third consecutive tourist visa, you are strongly advised to bring plenty of money, an onward ticket and a reasonable explanation of why you want to stay in Japan for such a long time without working.MONEY
Although the yen has recovered some ground since June 1998 (when it plunged to 146 against the US dollar), it remains volatile.It is possible to get cash with Visa and Mastercards in the bigger cities, particularly Tokyo. The trick is to find a machine that accepts foreign-issued cards (many Japanese cash machines display Visa and Mastercard stickers but only accept domestically-issued cards). You can find them by asking at major international hotels, larger banks, TICs and even department stores. Visa card holders can also get cash advances at any Sumitomo bank branch.
You can also get cash advances from Citibank cash machines in Tokyo and Osaka if your bank or cash card belongs to one of their affiliated networks (most do).
Exchanging Money
It's always risky to pin down a currency on paper (or on screen), so try this currency converter to give you the current value of the yen:
http://oanda.com/cgi-bin/nccPOST & COMMUNICATIONS
As of February 1998, all postal codes in Japan have been extended to seven digits. It is still possible, however, to send letters with only the old three-digit postal code.Thanks to a glut of fake phone cards and other telephone scams, it is now impossible to make international phone calls from regular pay phones in Japan. You must locate a grey phone or a green one with a gold-plated front panel (these are usually marked in both Japanese and English as `international phones') to make an international call. While you will find a few of these scattered around the streets of larger cities, a better bet is to look in the lobbies of international hotels and big department stores. You can still make international calls from the special credit card phones found in hotels and airports.
Avoid using fake phone cards. Although they cost only one-tenth of the price of real phone cards, using these cards entails a high risk and several foreigners have been arrested recently for using them. Apparently a crackdown is under way on sellers and users.
On-line Services
Japan has yet to catch up with the rest of the developed world in terms of on-line services. Internet cafes are still rare in Japan and almost non-existent outside the big cities. One traveller reports that there may be a solution to this:'The best place (for free internet access) is in NTT showrooms. Usually you can use the internet for an hour or 30 minutes.'
Source: The Thorn Tree; Georgeanna (Aug 98).HEALTH
There have been several outbreaks of food poisoning in Japan over the past few years. One traveller reports:'Extra care should be taken with food hygiene during the rainy season (from mid-May to mid-June). During these times, cases of food poisoning increase, particularly from eating raw foods.'
Source: Jo Rumble, Japan (Jul 98)WOMEN TRAVELLERS
Statistically, Japan is one of the safest countries in the world, but statistics do not reflect the actual number of crimes committed against women in Japan. We have received several letters from women travellers detailing sexual harassment, stalking and attempted rape. Sexist attitudes on the part of some police and government officials do little to help this situation. One seven month resident of Japan wrote:'Life in Japan can be wonderful, but there are a lot of backwards views on sexual behaviour, political correctness and basic human dignity. Have fun, but beware that you are in a completely different world.'
Source: Allison Simpson, Canada (Mar 98)This doesn't mean that women travellers should avoid Japan; but you should not be lulled into a false sense of security by Japan's image as a safe country. If you take the normal precautions you would in any country, you should have no problems. But walking alone at night, hitchhiking and similar activities are definitely not recommended. If you do have a problem and find the local police unhelpful, you can call the Human Rights Center Information Line in Tokyo (Tel 03-3581-2303).
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Women travellers take note of the above. Also, we have received some reports of attacks on foreign men. One traveller reports:'On the day of O-bon ... I had a fight in Kyoto ... I was confronted by a teenager who spoke to me in the Kansai dialect. I told him I didn't want to fight ... and then he started punching me in the head. I have always thought that Japan was the last safe haven, but I was wrong.'
Source: MV Solivan, Canada (Sep 97)Although Kyoto police have made efforts to patrol the area, the bank of the Kamogawa River between Sanjo and Shijo streets can still be dangerous on hot summer nights. The best advice is to use common sense: go somewhere else if the crowd looks ugly.
Another traveller reports having problems at customs because he was carrying an anti-diarrhoeal medicine:
'Anyone travelling to Japan from anywhere remotely third world should avoid carrying Immodium in the essentials bag. It seems that anyone carrying Immodium is linked to taking drugs.'
Source: Steve Yeldir (Feb 98)ACCOMMODATION
'The Bagus Café in Wakayama, Kansai Region, is not free to stay all year round - only during the festival which is usually at Harvest Moon time at the end of September or early October. Travellers should first call (0734-44-2559), and they will give you more information about accommodation.'
Source: The Thorn Tree; Jo Ann Skinner (98)INTERNET RESOURCES
For more up to date information on Japan, try the following links:The Japan National Tourist Organization's site – lots of good stuff on events, destinations, travel tips and accommodation:
http://www.jnto.go.jpThe Japan Information Network – general information on Japan:
http://jin.jcic.or.jp/index.htmlTokyo Journal's site – some good information on upcoming concerts and shows:
http://www.tokyo.toKansai Time Out magazine's site – their article database is useful for planning trips around Kansai:
http://www.kto.co.jpThe Japan Web Guide – links to 500 of the best Web sites on Japan:
http://www.gol.com/jguide/index.htmlGetting There & Away
AIR
Airfares to Japan are cheaper than they have been in years. The following airlines are now offering good deals to/from Japan: Cathay Pacific (to/from the US and Asia), Malaysian (to/from Europe, Asia and Australia), United (to/from the US) and Thai (to/from Asia and Australia).SEA
Few people think of coming to Japan by boat, but it is possible from China and Korea:'I highly recommend taking the boat from Shanghai to Osaka as an excellent way to get to Japan. The boat is cheap and offers student reductions and return ticket discounts from the office at Shanghai Mansions in Shanghai.'
Source: M D Tinker, UK (Mar 98)Getting Around
AIR
'If you're staying in Japan and want a domestic flight, if you book them exactly (and I mean exactly, not one day late or early) two months ahead, you can get a 40-50% reduction on your flight. But it's only possible on domestic flights.'
Source: The Thorn Tree; Hilde (Jan 98)TRAIN
The Shinkansen has regained the title 'world's fastest train' with the introduction of a new super-fast Shinkansen operating between Osaka and Tokyo (the title had been held by France's TGV for the past few years). The ticket price is about 10% higher than on regular Hikari trains and all seats are reserved. There are about eight departures daily in each direction. A cheap way to check out these sleek beauties is to buy a Y200 platform ticket and ask the station master when they are due in the station.BUS
'Since the Akashi Kaikyo Oohashi Bridge (between Kobe and Awaji-shima Island) has opened, it is much easier to go from Kansai to Shikoku. Take the buses leaving from Osaka Station, Kobe Sannomiya Station or Maiko Station.'
Source: Barla Fetz (Jun 98)HITCHING
We have received several letters from women travellers pointing out the dangers of hitchhiking alone in Japan. While hitching may be not as dangerous for males, it is decidedly unsafe for women, even in groups of two or more.BOAT
'The boat from Ishinomaki to Kinkazan Island via Ayukawa (in northern Honshu) stopped operating in 1997. If you want to take a ferry there, you must catch the train from Ishinomaki to Onogawa station. Upon arriving in Onogawa you must then walk out of the train station and turn right. Keep walking until you come to the pier where the ferry is waiting. Return tickets are Y3040.'
Source: Lilla Ito-Hongo, Australia (Jan 98)Tokyo
There has been a lot of new development in the Tokyo Bay area. Sights worth seeing include the Fuji Television Japan Broadcast Center, the Decks Tokyo Beach shopping and restaurant complex, the Museum of Maritime Science and the Tokyo International Exhibition Center ('Tokyo Big Sight'). To get there, take the Tokyo Rinkai Shinkotsu-sen line from Shimbashi (better known as the 'Yurikamome Line').
Kansai Region
KYOTO
A renovation of Kyoto's central station is finally finished and it's well worth a look. Although some complain that the station has little in common with traditional Kyoto, most are taken with the building's towering, airy design. Housed within the station are department stores, a tourist information centre, lots of restaurants, coffee shops and even a theatre.Essential Lonely Planet Resources
Don’t stop here in your search for up to date information on travelling in Japan. Guidebooks and Upgrades provide a great snapshot of the place as it was when the author was last there, but for the very latest news, travellers’ reports and embassy advice, check out the following sections of the Lonely Planet Web site.
Destinations û Lonely Planet’s Online Mini Guide to Japan
Scoop û Japan News Archive
The Thorn Tree û North-East Asia Travellers’ Bulletin Board
Postcards û Travellers’ Reports From Japan
Propaganda û Lonely Planet’s Latest Guides to Japan û Japan, Tokyo city guide, Japanese phrasebook, Japanese audio pack, North-East Asia,
Journeys – Lost Japan
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