I am moving to KZ August. I will be teaching in an
international school. The following is a letter I just
recieved from the man who hired me. I understand he has
sugar coat it a bit but it is completely different from the
now "infamous" KZ POST FROM LAST MONTH. Tell me what you
think.
To all Kazakhstan "campers," educators, and others-Greetings
and Hyo!
I've been promising you-all an
orientation/introduction/information
letter/packet/sheet/broadside, etc. for some time. And,
now, after a
pleasant week in Astana with the newly recruited staff
there, it's back to
Almaty and greater reality.
In mid-April Astana was spectacularly beautiful-sunny,
crystal clear and
clean air. However, the large river through the heart of
the city, the Ishim, on whose very banks we have our
school's temporary offices, is still frozen, frozen to the
solidity that allows-actually seems to encourage-skating,
sledding, fishing, even ice boating. Often hundreds of
people were on the river engaged in some sport or other.
The weather was so pleasant that the cold-which it obviously
takes to sustain ice on a running river-was not a problem.
Actually, the air was so clear and the humidity so
low that it truly didn't seem that cold.
I visited a new large market, always called a bazaar
hereabouts, in Astana to shop for the fixings for a major
Italian feast I planned to cook. Everyone
in Almaty told me to buy here in order to be sure I could
get what I wanted for an international meal. At the new
bazaar I found a veal roast, the quality of which would
please any Italian fanatic. I found several varieties
of tomatoes, basil, Italian parsley, eggplant, peppers of
all kinds, garlic, bread of every style and type, even a
nice variety of Italian wines. The fruit was abundant and
in great variety with quality to rival any market
anywhere.The only thing I didn't find-and I brought them
from Almaty!-was cannelli beans. In Almaty they have a
great and fantastic assortment of beans and
lentils. The selection in Astana was good, but missed on the
cannelli. There are also supermarkets in Astana.
This market/bazaar had one floor-a huge place-just devoted
to food and drink, with large sections for each category.
(Even the cheese section was impressive.) On the upper
story was a rather American-like shopping mall. However, the
emphasis was on Kazakhstan products, but everything from
clothes, furniture, appliances, books and educational
supplies to many foreign imports were on sale. There were
collection of French shops, a couple of Italian design
shops, etc. Impressive, very nice and even fun.
The markets/bazaar in Almaty are equally great, and I love
shopping here. While I go to western-style super markets a
couple of times a weeks, it's the
big local market/bazaar that I save "for the big stuff."
It's so great to
shop there. The variety and quality make comparison
shopping a great
experience. For some of the rarer items, it's a treasure
hunt! For example,
I've found a Kazakh man, a dwarf, who is my nominee for
"greatest spice
seller on earth." He makes all his own-grinding fresh
quantities every day.
He mixes his own curries, chili powders, black pepper, etc.
For some things
like cardamom, mace, and some more exotic things, he grinds
fresh for each
customer. He doesn't actually carry herbs, but he tells me
who has whatever
it is I need. Recently, I wanted some oregano-it's quite
rare and
essentially never used here. However, he told me that one
old lady who sells
medicinal herbs had it. So he took me to her (about 15 yds
away). She had
it and sold me a nice packet of dry, but very fresh oregano
for 15Tenge (less
than 15 cents) They believe that oregano is good for your
heart, but I told
them it was even better for your Italian dinners.
I also recently spent a couple of weekends shopping for and
buying art. This
included carpets, paintings and ceramics. I still can't
believe what-all
wonderful things I got. I started with 4 Kazakh carpets,
all 5x7 or bigger.
These are all hand made and magnificent items. (One was
old, about 100 years
old, and everyone who was with me was horrified that I paid
as much for it as
for the new ones. It was 5x7 and its colors so softened and
its pattern so
vibrant that I was dazzled. I told them that in the US it
would be worth two
or three times as much as the new ones. They all thought we
must be daft to
pay more for old.)
I bought 7 paintings, 4 with yurts in local scenes; 3
moderns ones with some
wonderful colors and traditional Kazakh themes, but in very
modern
interpretations. I got 4 modest ceramic pieces, but very
nicely designed
and fired. All of the above were about $850 total.
I continue to live well on my $500 per month local salary.
I have yet to use
a cent from US income.
Today is April 22, 1999 and spring has been in full
flower-in all ways for 10
days or two weeks-until this morning. After nearly 2 weeks
of sun and warmth
and greening everywhere, I woke up to a very beautiful white
world again. It
had snowed 3 or 4 inches, and it has continued, very lightly
though,
throughout the day.
Everyone will receive one-way tickets from whichever airport
you designate to
Almaty or Astana. We use mostly United/Lufthansa(LH) or
United/KLM or
United/British Air. It will depend on where you're coming
from. I have a
strong partiality to the UA/LH connection, as it is through
Frankfort and the
times are kinder. It arrives in Almaty at 9:00 in the
evening. The others
arrive at 1:30 or 3:05 in the morning. Not good, in my
view. Then the
following summer you'll get either a one-way home (if you're
not returning)
or a round trip anywhere you designate.
We take care of the initial steps of your visa acquisition.
Here's how it
works: we submit everyone's name who we are bringing to KZ
to the consular
division of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs with a letter of
invitation.
They then prepare an approved list and send it to
Washington, D.C. After
this, you apply to the Embassy and they will give you the
time, address,
information, etc.
What to bring and how to bring it? Generally, plan to
bring only clothes and
personal items that are essential to your happiness and well
being and won't
be available anywhere else. I brought only books, CD's and
a laptop computer
besides clothes. Here I bought a Sony CD, cassette player,
AM/FM radio with
detachable speakers for $90. It's not worth carrying. All
appliances are
being provided. Exception: The local concept of coffee
maker is an electric
kettle for tea and instant coffee. I like coffee, real
coffee. So the first
weekend I bought an electric coffee maker, a mill/grinder
and an assortment
of beans. Now I've bought another for work-everyone loves
it and they're
changing their tastes for coffee, now that they've had "the
real thing."
I would suggest that if you can, bring a computer. We'll
have computers
available at school. But for your own use, a laptop would
be best. They're
about 2x the US cost here, so buying computer equipment here
is not a smart
buy. Most things are a bargain, but computer-related stuff
is not.
The townhomes for employees will not be completed until 6
weeks or 2 months
later, so everyone will have an apartment in the city.
We're hopeful that
they'll be close together, but it will simply be based on
availability. My
apartment, for instance, is so good that I hate to give it
up. It is
considered "average" but I think it is very special. The
school has already
rented a couple of apartments in Astana and they are very
nice-brand new, on
the river, really pleasant. We'll only need a couple more.
The situation on transportation is a bit of a dilemma.
Everyone here thinks
it's crazy to drive yourself if you don't have to. By world
standards this
is a non-crowded, easy to deal with city. Streets are wide,
traffic lights
works, laws are enforced and the quality of driving is very
subdued in
comparison with most places. However, the "rub"-such as it
is-is simply that
the police speak only Russian and you get stopped frequently
for document
checks, insurance papers, registration, license, etc. If
you don't
communicate with them, they can "haul you in," fine you on
the spot or make
life unpleasant. So most foreigners don't brave it on this
issue. There are
Americans driving about and motorcycles are around.
There are busses, trolleys, trams and streetcars. They tend
to be slow,
cheap and always crowded, very crowded. The best source of
public
transport-I've only used it a few times-are referred to as
"private taxis."
You simply stand on the side of the street and look anxious.
Private
vehicles will stop and ask where you want to go and you say
and then they
name a price. It'll be about 50 cents a km or $2 for a
fairly long ride and
you settle and off you go. It's always safe and you never
wait long. I was
hesitant to do it, but after a time or two-"nyet problema."
There are gyms and health clubs, and pools, etc. in many
locations; our gym
will be good, with weight machine and eventually own pool
and tennis court.
Local clubs provide instruction in martial arts, tennis,
etc. and there are
lots of opportunity for a variety of sports and games.
I "suddenly" realized that I'm not going to be able to
answer all the
questions in one letter, so with only one additional note,
I'll end this,
Chapter 1. You are coming to a most hospitable place. The
Kazakhs love
foreigners and visitors are always honored guests. I have
lived in several
countries that I loved, but there is no place where I've
felt as welcomed and
appreciated. The graciousness and genuine warmth is
constantly overwhelming,
even amazing. It is pleasant to go out to public places; I
have often felt
like I was the public spectacle, the freak on the block.
Never here.
Typical experience: I had expressed an interest in going to
one of the local
museums, The Museum of Kazakh Musical Instruments. One day
the Deputy
Director of the Foundation, a nice lady named Svetlana
Viktorovna, told me
that at 4:00 p.m. a car would take me there as she had asked
a friend to
arrange for a special tour and there would be "a couple" of
musicians to
demonstrate for me. So I went, along with 4 or 5 local
friends who hadn't
been and an interpreter. The tour was comprehensive with
several specialists
explaining and playing instruments throughout the tour.
Then after about 1
hour they took me into the yurt-like theatre where they had
arranged for over
35 musicians, singers and dancers to give me a full-scale
concert. This
included the most famous dombra player in KZ. (The dombra is
the classic
stringed, guitar-like instrument in central Asia.) Also a
famous composer of
Kazakh songs sang some of his own songs and the leading
dancer performed.
Needless to say, I was overwhelmed and pleased and very
happy about the whole
thing. They ended with speeches and an invitation to me to
give a lecture to
them. Which, of course, I accepted! I'll do it on American
folk and native
American and Black influences. Exciting world you're coming
[There are 4 posts - the latest was added on Thu 29 April, 15:14]
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Hi, I realize my credibility is a little suspect, since I
was one of the main participants in the "Kazakstan- a
behavioral guide" thread started by "Ibeeone B. Mofoe". I
just would like to say that you should err on the side of
caution and then be pleasantly suprised. Remember, in all
of the world, a lot of fancy stuff is availible if you have
the money and Kazakstan is no expception. But remember, it
is a large poor country in the middle of Asia with a pretty
horrible past (Virgin lands, Semey, Aral Sea, gulags, etc.)
and things just don't change that quick. The letter you
got was reasonably honest about the police, I suspect since
that is something they can't paint in a good light and
just say that that is the result of "perspective". When you
get stopped/harassed by the police they are not being
"friendly". Just remember that all the stuff about
facilities and availiblity of goods are more easily put in a
wrongly good light. Case in point:I have not seen this in
Kazakstan, but in other former U.S.S.R. countries where the
hotel boasts of its "swiming pool", well their is a "pool"
dug out and all, but its got no water! In general what you
will see will probably not be horrible in the way that an
aid agency advert for famine relief Africa is. Instead, you
might feel like you are in a bad Kafka novel....
Hi-
Well, if your going to live Astana you won't be living in
the real Kazakhstan. Astana is a sort of "Model Kazakhstan,"
very far from the reality of Kazakhstan. Except for the
brutial Siberian wind in the winter, it's rather nice. But
like I say, it isn't real.
Robert
Krashpad, I too will go this June to teach English with the
Peace Corps for two years in KZ, although I do not know
which city I will be sent to. I have been looking for info
on KZ, which seems hard to come by. THere are some
websites, but nothing is very informative. If you have a
chance and are interested in history, I recommend Professor
Martha B. Olcott's book "The Kazakhs." Your letter about
Astana sounds impressive -- it is the most I have heard
about KZ. (As an Italian-American I was happy to hear that
some Italian products are available over there). Two former
Peace Corps volunteers have told me that Kazakhs are very
nice and are friendly toward foreigners. I am hoping to
hear from one of them soon about the education system, etc.
Do you know anything about banking your money there? Also,
have you heard about any health-related problems pertaining
to their former nuclear sites. Supposedly, the US gov't
claims there are no current problems, but I am always
skeptical about gov't reports from anywhere in the world.
Regarding the police thing, I was in Iran this past summer
studying Persian and frequently the police there stop
foreigners. I think they mainly do this because they A) are
very curious and want to talk to you or B) some, not many,
enjoy trying to intimidate foreigners. I always make sure
my papers are on me and I try not act nervous when they
start asking 20 questions. Again, if you have any advice on
the above topics please let me know. Thanks!
Janice
Hi- Since Janice mentioned the police I think I should pipe
in and offer some perspective. Though Iran has its
problems, it is many ways much more sophisticated and stable
than any part of the former Soviet Union. I would not
consider a police stop in Iran or Syria or Pakistan or a
similar country to be nearly as big a deal as the police
NOTICING me in the former Soviet Union. They are often
under paid, drunk, and they are often used to a system where
they had an awful lot of power and could act with impuinity.
They have no real oversight-- certainly not much as in
places with comparatively stable governments like Iran,
Syria, and Pakistan. I will say, they tend to stop women a
lot less often than they stop men, so Janice, I think you
should not have to worry too much. Furthermore, there are a
set of skills you will learn that will make it such that you
can minimize how often you are stopped and how serious the
stops are. Just so you know, I was up to 2 or 3 stops a
week for a little while... and it wasn't like I
was photographing bridges, airports, and communications
towers...
good luck,
Yawn
p.s.- Semey ain't the only health problem to worry about.
The Aral Sea(s) created a lot of problems. Also,
envirnomental qualities studies on the effects of Soviet
industrial and agricultural practices have not been very
thorough-- I think people worry about the intelligence
implications. Sadly, no easy way out... gotta take the
lumps.