 e arrived in Manali close to dawn. I had enough energy to be elated for about 10 seconds, then slumped onto a hotel doorstep with a finger pressed to the nightbell, dragged myself up four flights of stairs to a smelly paradise, and collapsed.
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had four delirious days to practise keeping food inside me, contemplate my anti-pilgrimage and add terms 49 and 50 to my Indian rule book: you are never nearly there; and toilet paper is never too expensive.
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