After the men had eaten, the mensaf was brought through for us. The others helped themselves from a large central platter, using their right hands, but Umm Tahir brought me a spoon and a small plate of my own. This may have been out of consideration for my different eating habits but, more likely, it was a way of keeping my paws out of the communal dish; Westerners are thought unclean and many Muslims prefer not to eat from the same plate.


Mensaf is delicious: tender meat in a rich, tangy sauce of yoghurt and pine nuts, served on a bed of saffron rice. Unfortunately, there's something about the combination that makes more than the smallest portion swell inside me and edge me towards throwing up. Mensaf is what the Old Testament tells good Jews they shouldn't eat - a kid seethed in its mother's milk. It certainly seethes inside me.
I decided that throwing up would be more ungracious than pretending to have a small appetite. Luckily, everyone else was in such an eating fever they didn't notice what I was up to as I slipped most of my portion back onto the main platter.

The mensaf was followed by sweets, oranges, tea and ages of sitting around. The afternoon was passing by. ''This is my life passing by,'' I thought, as yet another desultory conversation passed me by. Suddenly we had a change of pace. Activity. Umm Tahir was showing off her dresses, bringing out at least a dozen from her part of the tent - blue, crimson, green, velvets, velours, satins, all yoked with rich embroidery or stiff with sequins. We were supposed to coo and stroke them admiringly as she held them up against herself, preening and prancing. I was a very reluctant sycophant at the court of Queen Umm Tahir but gasped praises along with the rest.  

   
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