However, the creature at the centre of current controversy is not one of the islands' more visible species, but one of its most humble: the sea cucumber. These worm-like creatures mulch organic matter on the sea floor, making food for other species, who then become food for other species (you know how it works). Needless to say, these saltwater vegies are an essential link in the biological chain. Although not traditionally fished by local islanders, demand from Asian markets has led to a lucrative sea cucumber industry springing up in the last ten years. At current rates, the sea cucumbers will all be salad in about five years, putting untenable pressure on this unique biosphere. ............................................... The Ecuadorian government, mindful of the economic importance of preserving the Galápagos Islands, has tried various modes of restricting commercial harvesting of sea cucumbers, but locals have been loath to abide by mainland law. Illegal catches were common during trial bans when choked supplies pushed prices up, forcing a total legislative ban on sea cucumber fishing. Local reaction to the ban has been vociferous. Tortoises have been taken hostage, and researchers and scientists in the national park have been harrassed. Local authorities' powers of policing are not entrenched and some officials have bowed to intense pressure by fisherman and corrupt politicians. Largely on the basis of the sea cucumber issue, opposition groups in the islands are demanding increased autonomy, forcing the government into negotiations by threatening environmental terrorism of the slash and burn variety. Not only is this of immediate concern, it is also a worrying indication of the priorities of those groups working towards greater independence.

Less patent but more insidious is a general erosion of the islands' capabilities to cope with its inhabitants and its visitors. The burgeoning tourist industry (up to 60,000 visitors annually) has far-reaching impact. Immigrants from mainland Ecuador have been streaming to the Galápagos Islands hoping to find work catering to travellers. Sadly, tourism operators are not always looking beyond the quick buck, engaging in unscrupulous malpractices such as odious (and odorous) waste disposal. Even the most responsible industry operators are contributing to pressure on the water supply and legitimate garbage disposal systems. Introduced plant and animal species are of huge concern too, upsetting the ecological balance of some islands to the point that species are threatened with extinction.

Scientists agree that it is not too late to save the Galápagos Islands. A balance must be found between the need for islanders to make a living, the desire of travellers' to experience the islands' unique environment, and the necessity for the Galápagos Islands' natural heritage to be protected.