Facts at a Glance
Full country name: Republic of Colombia
Area: 1,138,900 sq km (439,700 sq mi)
Population: 36.2 million
Capital city: Bogotá (pop: 5 million)
People: Mestizo (of European-Indian descent) 58%, European descent 20%, mulatto (African-European descent) 14%, African descent 4%, African-Indian descent 3%, Indian 1%
Language: Castilian Spanish, plus over 200 indigenous Indian languages
Religion: Catholic 95%, with the remainder a mixture of traditional, Episcopal and Jewish faiths
Government: Democracy
President: AndrΘs Pastrana Arango
Colombia is the fourth-largest country in South America and the only one with coasts on both the Pacific and Caribbean. It shares borders with Panama (to the northwest), Venezuela (east), Brazil (southeast), Peru (south) and Ecuador (southwest). Colombian territory also includes the San Andrés and Providencia island groups, 700km (435mi) northwest of the mainland, in the Caribbean Sea. The archipelagoes are 230km (140mi) east of Nicaragua.
The western part of the country is mostly mountainous: the 8000km (5000mi) Cordillera de los Andes runs the length of South America and, on reaching Colombia, splits into three ranges (Cordillera Occidental, Cordillera Central and Cordillera Oriental). Two valleys - Valle del Cauca and Valle del Magdalena - are sandwiched between the three cordilleras; their rivers flow northwards, more or less parallel, until the Cauca River joins the Magdalena River and flows into the Caribbean. Apart from the three Andean chains, Colombia boasts the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the highest coastal mountain range in the world. Over 50% of the territory east of the Andes is lowland or covered by thick rainforest crisscrossed by rivers and their tributaries.
Among Colombia's geographical curiosities are deserts in the northeast; the jungle of the Pacific coast (which holds a record for highest rainfall); and the Serranía de la Macarena, an isolated mountain formation rising 1000m (3000ft) from the eastern plains.
Ojeda Peak, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta (16K)
Colombia claims to have the highest number of species of plants and animals per unit area of any country in the world. Its animals include jaguars, ocelots, peccaries, tapirs, deer, armadillo, numerous species of monkey and the rare spectacled bear. There are more than 1550 recorded species of birds (more than in the whole of Europe and North America combined), ranging from the huge Andean condor to the tiny hummingbird. Equally abundant marine life includes the predacious piranha and the electric eel. Colombia's herbariums have classified over 130,000 plants, including Victoria Amazonica, which is similar to a water lily and has leaves large and strong enough to support a child.
The country's network of reserves includes 33 national parks, six small areas called santuarios de flora y fauna, two reservas nacionales and one area natural única. Their combined area constitutes 7.9% of Colombia's territory.
As the country lies close to the equator, the average temperature varies little throughout the year. Temperatures do, however, vary with altitude; as a general rule, the temperature falls about 6 degrees centigrade with every 1000m (3280ft) increase in altitude. Colombia's equatorial climate features two seasons: verano (dry) and invierno (wet). But because of the country's complex geographical and altitudinal factors, there is no universal pattern of seasons. One area that does have a definite pattern is Los Llanos, in the east, where the dry season falls between December and March, while the rest of the year is wet.
Pre-Columbian cultures existed in scattered pockets in the Andean region and on the Pacific and Atlantic coasts. Among the most outstanding were the Tayrona, Sinú, Muisca, Quimbaya, Tierradentro and San Agustín. Many of the tribes produced accomplished goldwork and pottery, and some left behind burial chambers and rock paintings which have helped anthropologists piece together their cultures.
Alonso de Ojeda, a companion of Christopher Columbus, landed on the Guajira Peninsula in 1499. The wealth of the local Indians promulgated the myth of El Dorado, and the shores of present-day Colombia became the target of numerous expeditions. The Indians originally tolerated the arrival of the Spaniards but rebelled when the colonists tried to enslave them and confiscate their lands. Soon, a large part of what became Colombia had been conquered by the Spanish, and a number of towns, including Cartagena (founded in 1533), were prospering. In 1544, the country was incorporated into the viceroyalty of Peru, where it remained until 1739 when it became a part of New Granada (comprising the territories of what are today Colombia, Venezuela, Ecuador and Panama).
Slavery, and the Spanish monopoly over commerce, taxes and duty slowly gave rise to protest, particularly towards the end of the 18th century. It was during this period that the first stirrings of national autonomy occurred, but it wasn't until 1819, and the appearance of Venezuelan liberator Simon Bolívar and his army, that independence was achieved. Ten years of uneasy confederation with Venezuela and Ecuador followed in the form of Gran Colombia, until regional differences between the three finally undermined the union.
Political currents born in the struggle for independence were formalized in 1849 when two parties (dominated by creole elites) were established: the Conservatives with centralist tendencies and the Liberals with federalist leanings. The parties divided the nation into partisan camps, which eventually heralded insurrection, civil chaos and war. In the course of the 19th century, the country experienced no less than 50 insurrections and eight civil wars, culminating in the bloody War of a Thousand Days in 1899.
After a period of relative peace, the struggle between the Conservatives and the Liberals broke out again in 1948 with La Violencia, the most cruel and destructive of Colombia's many civil wars. Close to 300,000 died in the conflict as the Conservatives tried to consolidate a new era of power. When it became evident that the conflict was developing revolutionary overtones, both parties decided to support a military coup as the best means to retain power and rein in the growing band of rebels camped in the countryside. The resulting coup - by General Gustavo Rojas in 1953 - proved the only military intervention Colombia has experienced this century. It was shortlived, however, falling in 1957 when the Liberals and Conservatives agreed (now under the guise of the National Front) to share power for the next 16 years.
The National Front formally came to an end in 1974, when Liberal President Alfonso López Michelsen was elected, but a modified version of the two-party system continued for another 17 years. In the meantime, the political monopoly encouraged the emergence of a number of left-wing guerrilla groups such as the National Liberation Army (ELN), Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC) and the April 19 Movement (M19). They failed to dislodge the government, but undermined its ability to govern properly.
Narco-terrorism
Another pressing threat was the setting of paramilitary death squads against any group (regardless of political persuasion) that sought to oppose the powerful drug cartels in Medellín and Cali. By 1990, escalating violence (increasingly leveled at members of the ruling political class) threatened to bring the country to a standstill. A new constitution came into effect in 1991 which provided greater judicial powers and strengthened government control. In June of that year, Pablo Escobar, head of the Medellín cocaine cartel and alleged mastermind of the bloody campaign of terror, surrendered. A year later, he escaped, but was finally located and killed in December 1993.
Today, drug trafficking continues to grow (courtesy of the pragmatic Cali cartel), bringing in an estimated US$5 billion a year. The arrest of Cali cartel leader Gilberto Rodriguez Orejuela in June 1995 was a feather in the government's cap but did little to radically alter the dynamics of the Colombian drug trade. Even then-president Ernesto Samper was forced to spend much of his last years in office refuting allegations that drug money financed his election campaign. Samper's Liberal Party succesor, Horacio Serpa, lost the June 1998 presidential election to conservative Andres Pastrana, who in 1994 had blown the whistle on Samper's Cali connections.
GDP: US$172 billon
GDP per capita: US$4850
Inflation: 21%
Major industries: Textiles, coffee, oil, narcotics, sugar cane, food processing
Major trading partner: USA
Colombia is an ethnic mosaic, reflected in its culture, folklore, arts and crafts. The different roots and traditions of the Indians, Spanish and Africans have produced interesting fusions, particularly in crafts, sculpture and music. Pre-Columbian art consists primarily of stone sculpture, pottery and goldwork. Indian basketware, weaving and pottery date back to pre-Columbian times but now fuse modern techniques with traditional designs. Colombian music incorporates both the African rhythms of the Caribbean, Cuban salsa and heavily Spanish-influenced Andean music.
Flute player, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta (9K)
Colombia's literary giant is Gabriel García Márquez, whose works mix myths, dreams and reality in a style critics have dubbed magic realism. García Márquez insists his work is documentary, which says a lot about the nature, rhythm and perception of life in Colombia. The best of Colombia's exciting new writers is Moreno Durán, who has been burdened with the reputation of being the best Latin American novelist to emerge since the regional upsurge in literary talent in the 1950s.
Spanish is Colombia's official language and, except for some remote Indian tribes, all Colombians speak it. There are also about 75 Indian languages still used in the country. While the education system includes English in its curriculum, it remains little known and rarely spoken.
Catholicism remains the dominant religion although over three million followers have recently left the Catholic faith and hooked up to other congregations (Anglican, Lutheran, Mormon, etc) or various religious sects.
Colombian cuisine consists largely of chicken, pork, potato, rice, beans and soup. Interesting regional dishes include: ajiaco (soup made with chicken and potato which is a Bogotano speciality); hormiga culona (a sophisticated dish, unique to Santander, consisting largely of fried ants); and lechona (whole suckling pig, spit-roasted and stuffed with rice, which is a speciality of Tolima). The variety of fruit is astounding, the coffee and beer more than adequate and the wine execrable.
Market day (7K)
The Colombian calendar is awash with festivals, carnivals, fairs and beauty pageants. Some of the biggest events include: Carnaval de Blancos y Negros (Pasto; January); Festival Internacional de Música del Caribe (Cartagena; March); Semana Santa (Holy Week) (most prominent celebrations are in Popayán and Mompós; March or April); Feria de las Flores (Medellín; August); and Reinado del Coco (San Andrés; November).
Facts for the Traveler
Visas: Visitors from Australia, New Zealand, most European countries and the USA can obtain a 90-day visa on entry. Other passport holders should check visa status with Colombian consular representation before departure.
Health risks: Altitude sickness, cholera, hepatitis A, B and D, malaria, rabies, tetanus and typhoid
Time: GMT/UTC minus 5 hours
Electricity: 110V, 60 Hz
Weights & Measures: Metric (see the conversion table.)
Money & Costs
Currency: Peso ($)
Relative costs:
- Budget room: US$5-10
- Moderate hotel: US$10-15
- Top-end hotel: US$15 and upwards
- Budget meal: US$2-5
- Moderate restaurant meal: US$5-10
- Top-end restaurant meal: US$10 and upwards
Colombia is not an expensive country. Budget travelers can get by on around US$10 per day; while those staying in more comfortable hotels and eating at restaurants will spend around US$20-30 per day. Splurgers should budget on US$50-70 a day.
Some banks change cash and/or travelers' checks, but others don't. Some branches of a bank will change your money while other branches of the same bank will refuse. This seems to vary constantly from bank to bank, city to city, day to day, and can be further complicated by a myriad of local factors, eg the bank may have reached its daily limit of foreign exchange. On top of that, the banks usually offer foreign exchange services within limited hours, which may mean only one or two hours daily; your best chances are in the morning.
You can change cash dollars on the street, but it's not recommended. The only street money markets worth considering are those at the borders, where there may be simply no alternative. You can use credit cards (Visa is the most widely accepted) for car rental, air tickets and in most top-end hotels and restaurants. Plastic money is also becoming popular for purchasing goods and payment for services in many other commercial establishments. There are an increasing number of cajeros automáticos (automatic teller machines) which accept Visa and MasterCard, and will pay you pesos.
The most pleasant time to visit Colombia is in the dry season, but there are no major obstacles to general sightseeing in the wet period. Most Colombians take their holidays between late December and mid-January, so transport is more crowded and hotels tend to fill up faster at this time.
Warning
The US State Department has warned US citizens against traveling to Colombia. The department considers the entire area east of the Andes (except Leticia) and the north coast (except Barranquilla, Cartagena, San Andres and Santa Marta) dangerous. Areas considered security risks include the departments of Cundinamarca, Antioquia, northern Choco, southern Tolima, and rural areas of Valle de Cauca, Huila and Cauca. However, if you follow this advice, there is not much of Colombia left to explore. The best way to avoid trouble is to read the local press to monitor recent guerrilla movements and avoid areas where they are active. During May 1996, in response to increased rebel bomb strikes, ambushes and murders, the Columbian Air force has been carrying out bombing raids in guerrilla areas.
Don't wear expensive items of clothing or carry expensive cameras or handbags, because this will increase the chance of robbery. Give a wide berth to Colombian police unless you absolutely need them as they have a less than savory reputation. Drugs, especially cocaine and its derivatives, are prevalent throughout the country and should be avoided at all costs. Don't accept drinks or cigarettes from strangers as they may be laced with borrachero, a soporific drug often used on hapless tourists.
Attractions
Bogotá
Bogotá, the country's capital, is the quintessence of all things Colombian: a city of futuristic architecture, a vibrant and diverse cultural and intellectual life, splendid colonial churches and brilliant museums. It is also a city of Dickensian waifs, beggars, shantytowns, drug dealers and traffic jams. This amazing mixture of prosperity and poverty, Maseratis and mules, makes it one of the world's most chaotic, fascinating and aggressive metropolises.
Traffic jam, Central Bogotá (23K)
Sights to look out for include: Museo del Oro, which contains many relics of pre-Colombian history and is perhaps the most important museum of its kind in the world; Museo Nacional, which contains a wealth of exhibits ranging from pre-Columbian to contemporary art; Iglesia de Santa Clara, with its fresco-lined interior, images and altarpieces; Iglesia de San Ignacio, one of the most richly decorated churches in the country; the colonial barrio of La Candelaria, the oldest quarter in the city; Cerro de Monserrate, a peak flanking the city which is famous as a site of many miracles; and Jardin Botánico José Celestino Mutis, a lovely botanical garden featuring a variety of national flora.
Walking the city's streets and observing the mad to-ing and fro-ing, the avalanches of busetas, the extravagant stores and roadside stalls, is as fascinating as contemplating the serene atmosphere of the city's colonial churches and museums, so give yourself plenty of time for this sort of exploration. It's worth hanging out and watching the buskers at the Plaza de Santander, browsing at the Sunday flea market at Mercado de las Pulgas and looking (but not buying) at the street emerald market at the southwestern corner of Avenida Jiménez and Carrera 7.
Cinema advertisements, Bogotá (22K)
There is also a lively arts and entertainment scene that features theater and classical musical, discos amplifying sinuous Cuban rhythms in the trendy Zona Rosa, around Carrera 15, plus plenty of venues for watching soccer and bullfighting. Most budget travelers gravitate to La Cadeleria, which has cheap accommodation and food.
Fifty kilometers (31mi) northeast of Bogotá is the colonial town of Guatavita and the famous Laguna de Guativita, the ritual center and sacred lake of the Musica Indians, and the cradle of the El Dorado myth.
Cartagena de Indias is legendary both for its history and its beauty. It has been immortalized on countless canvases, glorified in hundreds of books and had its every detail photographed a zillion times - and, as Colombia's most fascinating city, it deserves every one of these tributes.
The walled old town of this fortified Spanish colonial port is a gem. It's packed with churches, monasteries, plazas, palaces and noble mansions with overhanging balconies and shady patios. It pays to just wander through the old town, but some of the highlights are the Palacio de la Inquisición; the colonial mansion Casa del Marqués de Valdehoyos; and the lovely old port of Cartagena on the Bahía de las Ánimas.
Muelle de los Pegasos, Cartagena (20K)
The less touristy Getsemaní, the outer walled town, also has charming pockets but is not so well-preserved. Nearby, there are a handful of impressive Spanish forts, including the 17th-century Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, undoubtedly the greatest and strongest fortress ever built by the Spaniards in their colonies. The Islas del Rosario, 30km (20mi) offshore southwest of Cartegena, have magnificent coral reefs and abundant marine life, making them popular with snorkelers and scuba divers. The L-shaped peninsula south of the old town contains the upmarket holiday resorts of Bocagrande and El Laguito. Most budget travelers stay in Getsemaní; there are mid-range options in the old town.
Other highlights of Colombia's Caribbean coast include the town of Mompós, which is an architectural showcase; the beaches of the Parque Nacional Tayrona; the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the tallest coastal mountain range in the world; the mud volcanoes of Arboletes; and, deep in the jungle, the ancient city of the Tayrona Indians, La Ciudad Perdida, which is the largest archaeological find in the Americas this century.
Taganga Bay, near Santa Marta (8K)
The Northwest
The northwest is made up of two large regions: the Chocó department (an extensive stretch of tropical rainforest, sparsely populated, and including the lovely Los Katiós National Park); and the departments of Antioquia, Caldas, Risaralda and Quindío (a mountainous region, predominantly White, and the location of the dynamic industrial and commercial city of Medellín). The oldest town in the northwest is Santa Fe de Antioquia, about 80km (50mi) northwest of Medellín, which still retains much of its colonial architecture and atmosphere.
The Southwest
The two biggest attractions in the southwest are the archaeological sites of San Agustín and Tierradentro, and the colonial city of Popayán. Both San Agustín and Tierradentro are littered with ancient statues, tombs and burial mounds, while Popayán has many churches, museums and streets lined with colonial mansions. Cali, Colombia's third-largest city, is noted more for its laid-back atmosphere than its tourist attractions.
Pre-Columbian stone statue, San Agustín (8K)
San Andrés and Providencia
This archipelago in the Caribbean Sea lies about 750km (465mi) northwest of the Colombian mainland and only 230km (140mi) east of Nicaragua. The southern group of islands is clustered around the seahorse-shaped San Andrés and 90km (55mi) to the north, mountainous Providencia is plopped into the tropical sea. San Andrés especially has been affected by a duty-free inspired tourist boom, but the charm and beauty of these islands has been largely retained. The turquoise waters, extensive coral reefs and rich marine life are a paradise for snorkelers and scuba divers while sun-soaked cays make soaking up UVs seem almost healthy. The easy-going life, friendly atmosphere, adequate (although not super-cheap) tourist facilities and general safety make the archipelago a good place to escape from the outside world.
San Andrés lies on the cheapest and most convenient route between Central American and Colombia. There are shuttle flights between the archipelago and the mainland, and direct connections from several southern US capitals. There are no regular ferries or boats, but cargo boats and freighters from Panama and Cartagena will often take passengers.
Santuario de Nuestra Señora de las Lajas Church
Located 7km (4mi) from Ipiales, on a bridge which spans a spectacular gorge of the Guáitara River, is this gothic church. Legend has it that an image of the Virgin Mary appeared in the mid-18th century on an enormous rock above the river. Interestingly, the church has been constructed in such a way that the rock (and image) is its high altar. Pilgrims from all over Colombia and Ecuador journey here and, unsurprisingly, reports of miracles at the site are not uncommon. Accommodation is suitably ascetic, being provided in a small but cheery convent up the road from the church.
Santuario de Nuestra Señora de las Lajas (11K)
Bahía Solano and El Valle
These two settlements on the Pacific coast of Chocó, approximately 250km (155mi) west of Medellín, are gradually developing into holiday resorts. Facilities are threadbare yet the beaches, especially Playa Larga in El Valle, are excellent. The two towns are good bases to organize boat excursions upriver and there are plenty of opportunities to thrash about in thick tropical jungle or stumble upon dozing wildlife. Nearby, the Parque Nacional Ensenada de Utría, which includes Isla de Salomón, is a good location for whale and dolphin-spotting.
Activities
Six-day return treks to the ruins of La Ciudad Perdida are very popular. Guides can arrange transport, food and accommodation (guides are essential because the area is an important marijuana and coca-growing region). The five to seven-day Nabusímake-Pico Colón Trek in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is a great way to experience Colombia's mountains.
Trekking in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta (25K)
There is great snorkeling and diving off the Islas del Rosario, 30km (20mi) offshore from Cartagena, and off the the Isla Barú, the peninsula south of Cartagena. The waters around San Andrés and Providencia are ooh-aah pretty-fishy spots of choice delight.
Adventurous jungle tours of the Amazonian interior can be arranged in Leticia. Well-equipped guides are thick on the ground and tours of up to 10 days can be easily arranged. High-speed film - the jungle is often gloomy - and mosquito repellent are a must.
Colombia's location at the northern edge of South America means it has good and relatively cheap air links with both Europe and North America. Most visitors fly to Colombia's major international airport in Bogotá; the other international airports include Cartagena and San Andrés. The airport tax on international flights is US$17 if you have stayed in the country up to 60 days and US$30 if you have stayed longer.
The country has road connections with Venezuela and Ecuador only. Travelers planning to use the dangerous Arauca-El Amparo de Apure border crossing or the Puerto Carreño-Puerto Páez crossing into Venezuela should consult their embassy to assess the security situation. Colombian guerilla attacks on Venezuelan army posts resulted in a confrontational build up of troops on both sides of the border in March 1995.
The truly intrepid can enter Colombia from Panama via the Darién Gap - the dense, dangerous and environmentally important jungle which interrupts the Pan-American highway. The trip takes a couple of weeks, requires guides, advance planning, a high degree of self-reliance and some good fortune. Guerrillas are active in the area and kidnappings are not uncommon so this trip is not to be undertaken lightly.
Ports on both Pacific and Caribbean coasts make it possible to arrive or leave by boat. Sea traffic is busier on the Caribbean side: boats are frequently coming and going between the USA, Mexico, Central America, the Caribbean islands and Venezuela. Colombian ports on the Caribbean include Baranquilla, Cartagena, Santa Marta and Turbo; its major Pacific port is Buenaventura.
Colombia was the first country in South America to have an airline: SCADTA was founded in 1919 and later became Avianca. It now has a well-developed airline system and one of the densest networks of domestic flights in Latin America. The country's policy of cielos abiertos (open skies), begun in 1991, has meant the introduction of a number of new carriers and an enormous variety of aircraft, from jumbo jets to anything that can manage to take off. Airfares are relatively high (Avianca and SAM are the most expensive carriers) but some of the newly established airlines offer promotional fares that can be ridiculously cheap. Remember to reconfirm your reservations at least 72 hours in advance and be prepared for rescheduled or postponed flights. There is a US$3.50 airport tax on domestic flights.
Buses provide the main means of getting around the country and are cheap, efficient and extensive. Unfortunately the roads, except for main routes, often beggar description. Getting around the cities by bus can be slow and they are usually crowded, but taxis are excellent value and can be chartered for long distances.
Other forms of transport include chivas (an old-style, wooden bus used primarily on outback roads) and collectivos (a cross between a bus and taxi, and used on fixed routes). There is no train service within the country and independent travel (car or motorcycle) is not recommended as it is both expensive and dangerous. Water transport, especially along the Pacific coast where no roads exist, is irregular and primitive.
Chiva (24K)
- The Search for El Dorado by John Hemming is a very readable overview of Spanish colonization with a fascinating insight into the conquest of Colombia.
- Colombia by Harvey F Kline is a well-balanced overview of Colombian history.
- Kings of Cocaine by Guy Gugliotta and Jeff Leen (two Miami Herald journalists) is a detailed insight into Colombia's drug cartels and reads like a fast-paced thriller. Simon Strong's Whitewash maps out the rise and fall of Pablo Escobar and the cocaine wars.
- The Fruit Palace by Charles Nicholl is an excellent and fascinating introduction to Colombia's often crazy reality, from Indian mountain villages to ramshackle bars.
- One Hundred Years of Solitude by Gabriel García Márquez, Colombia's foremost contemporary writer and Nobel Prize winner, is a wonderful vivification of Colombian culture and philosophy.
Travelers' Reports
Environment
History
Economic Profile
Culture
Events
When to Go
Off the Beaten Track
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
Recommended Reading
Lonely Planet Guides
On-line Info
