Since the time of Caxton, people have had ink on their fingers in this central part of London. Rupert Murdoch changed all that in the mid 1980s when he introduced state-of-the-art, non-union, printing presses at Wapping in the Docklands redevelopment. The move from Fleet Street was a tumultuous scrum of politicking and picket lines, but it worked. Now all that remains are ghosts, such as El Vino's, the journos No 1 watering hole and main source of inspiration, and The Daily Express building, an Art Deco structure of chrome, glass and nautical curves that was always more dashing than the newspaper itself.