Lake Baikal, (continued)

As the ship at last heads out into the waters of the lake, the atmosphere on board lightens considerably. The sky is clear, the air crisp with autumn. A slight breeze ripples across the water toward the eastern edge of the lake, where snow-capped mountains tower over the shoreline.

"October is the best time of the year for an expedition," says Marina. "Everyone at the institute is jealous that they didn't get to come, too." For Marina, a plankton specialist whose work involves gathering specimens with an oddly-shaped net and winch, the love of going on the lake must be strong enough to overcome the abysmally low salary she receives from the institute. A specialist in her field with nine years' experience, she receives 116,000 rubles ($25) per month.

"It's not very much, of course," she says, with no trace of self-pity in her voice. "Not even enough for bread for the month, really. But I love my work, I love the lake. How could I leave this for something else?"



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