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Photo by Eric Hunt
What is it About Austin?
By Bobbi Wilkerson
A few weeks ago my employer gave me the opportunity to spend a week at another of
our offices located in the Carolinas. I was told that I could transfer there if I wanted
to. So I went to the city and I'm glad I did, because that visit made me truly realize
how lucky I was to be living where I am now. As liberated as we might sometimes feel,
we have to face the unfortunate fact that there just aren't a whole lot of places where
we can live and feel free enough to do "our thing."
Twenty five years ago, when I first moved to Austin, Bobbi wasn't just in the closet; she
was somewhere between the bricks and the wallboard. I came to here to go to graduate school
and I wasn't aware of the reputation the city was building, even then, for its live
music scene and liberal social attitudes. I just knew I was coming to the home of
LBJ and Austin City Limits--the state capital. What I didn't know was that fate had
somehow put me in the ONLY city in the state where Bobbi would be most likely
to emerge and actually flourish.
Part of what makes this city so tolerant is the Texas tradition of live-and-let-live.
The attitude is based on the old west view of independence; each man has a right to his
space. But if it were up to Bubba, you can be sure that space would be limited to
room for each "man" and any variance from that would not be tolerated. Another
element that seeped in here is due to the influence of what locals refer to
as "The" university. With a student population in excess of 40,000, the city has
had to develop a high tolerance for alternative life styles. ("Slacker" was filmed
here.) And that's why many (like me) who come here for an education, decide to stay.
And the greenery, temperate climate, and variety of recreational activities, don't
hurt either.
Since we're often visited by TG folk from other parts of the country, and since I know
from firsthand experience how awkward it can be for a TG to come to a new city, Bobbi
is frequently given the opportunity to show off the things that make Austin one of
the best places for TG's to live.
Shopping
A typical day out starts, of course, with a shopping trip. And to make sure we're
ready for it we stop first at the
Stage and Screen Beauty Supply. Owned and operated by Shashana Kaplan, who spent
more than 10 years doing movie make-up in Hollywood, the Stage and Screen is a popular
place for TG's seeking makeovers. Shashana's ability to fool the camera serves us well
and her friendly, caring attitude is a great way to start off the day. Besides, you
never know when some film personality might pop in, since Austin is also a popular
place for moviemakers.
From Shashana's we tool south a few blocks down the Interstate to the Bazaar
(609 E Riverside Dr. 512.448.1079). It's a clothing store popular with the
university crowd as well as local TG's. Their selections range from the fun
stuff like corsets and lingerie to trendy mini-skirts and dresses. And they
have no problem with your trying them on, even when you're not en femme! The
salesgirls are delighted to have us come by.
If you pass well under the bright lights, you might want to leave the Bazaar and
cruise one of the half dozen shopping malls in town. All of the popular shops are
represented, including Victoria's Secret (in Highland Mall), Frederick's of Hollywood (in
Barton Creek Mall), and nifty little dress, jewelry, and accessory shops at the smaller
malls like Northcross and Lakeline.
Good Eats
That's actually the name of one of our favorite restaurants, but you can take lunch
at any number of wonderful little places. For instance, regardless of how well you
pass, no one is likely to look twice at you in either of The Magnolia Cafe's locations and the same is true at the Kerbey Lane
restaurants. Both serve lunch and dinner and are generally filled with at least one
person with green hair and another with a nose ring. And don't even bother to count
the pierced navels and tatoos. Remember, Austin is billed as the "Live Music Capitol
of the World." It's the home of Stevie Ray Vaughn, Willie Nelson, Kinky Friedman,
Timbuk 3, and dozens of lesser known but equally talented musicians and artists
whose presence has helped shape this tolerant city.
Sun Fun
Having eaten your fill of Tex-Mex fare, an afternoon at the
Barton Springs swimming pool
might be a good way to digest, but unless you're on hormones you're not going to
compete with the girls who choose to go topless there. No one looks twice at them,
and if you're looking for a sure way to execute the "tuck," a dip in the pool's frigid
spring-fed waters will effectively and rapidly suck up your private parts.
Warmer water can be found at nearby Lake Travis and if you're ready for it, a visit
to the famous Hippy Hollow beach area may be just what the therapist ordered.
Since its beginnings in the sixties as a traditional haven for hippies, this nude
swimming area has evolved into a gathering place for the gay and lesbian crowd as
well as continuing as a haven for local artists, naturists, and more liberal bathers.
Dining
As the sun begins to set over the city skyline (whose view is protected by law from
the construction of buildings which might obstruct it), you're probably thinking about
dinner. In the 25 years since we've been here we've seen the city grow from a limited
menu of Tex-Mex food to a mecca for fine dining and international cuisine. You can
choose from authentic Indian, French, Chinese, German Thai, or Greek foods or sample
some of the Mexican interior style cooking. And if you want to stay with the local
fare, check out one of the Lone Star Cafes, where the waitresses still pronounce the
wine "merr-lott." (We wouldn't recommend going there en femme, though; some of the
older cowpokes aren't ready to meet Stale Evans just yet.)
Night Life
Austin has it in abundance. The main tourist venue is Sixth Street, where you can catch
a performance at Esther's Follies (Austin's music and comedy answer to Chicago's
Second City) or see some of the wannabe standup comics next door at the Velveeta
Room. Or you can visit any of the bars, restaurants, and clubs that populate this
ten block long strip. Unless you overdo it (a 15" latex skirt and 5 inch heels would
be a bit much), you won't attract a lot of stares here, but your appreciation of
and by the rowdy college crowd will depend a lot on your age. The frat rats and
their dates are the most common sight and they sometimes drink more than their
fair share. [On the other hand, if you're here on Halloween, you've come to the
right place. Sixth Street becomes THE venue for an informal parade of wildly
costumed merrymakers who parade in a semi-orderly fashion up one side and down
the other. On that night the latex skirt and 5 inch heels are simply tame by
comparison.]
This might be a good time to redo that make-up from this morning, or if you'd like
to try a different look for the evening, give Jon Davis
a call. Jon (a.k.a. Beth) is a long time Austin resident who spent five years living
as a woman. He's a certified image consultant, seasonal analyst and licensed
appearance designer specializing in transformation make-up and appearance
design. (You've probably met him if you've ever been to the Texas T Party.)
At any one time, Austin has at least half a dozen gay bars appealing to various
stripes of gay, lesbian, bi, and TG folk. The older, established places like
'Bout Time and Charlie's are open every night and welcome us without a
problem. Charlie's, located under the shadow of the capital and just a few
blocks from the campus, attracts a younger, more intense crowd. There are nightly
events, drink specials, pool tables, and a dance floor, but the fun here doesn't really
start until midnight.
'Bout Time (located on the north side of the city) opens at 7:00 a.m.
now (that's not a typo: it's 7 in the morning, girls). A more mature (though no
less tame) crowd assembles here on weekends to see the frequent drag shows put
on by the Capital City Queens. One of the things we like about it is that the
management is very attentive to us and takes great care to assure our safety.
If you've parked too far from the door you may even be guided to your car by
a doorman with a flashlight.
And if you're into it, there's always Chain Drive, (504 Willow St. 512.480.9017)
a "Levi/Leather Bar" and Oilcan Harry's a "men's
dance & cruise bar." One other place where you'll be treated politely is Katz's Deli
(618 W. Sixth 512.472.2037). For the past two months, the club located upstairs,
(called Top of the Marc after the owner, Marc Katz) has been having a
professional drag show on Mondays with all proceeds going to the local AIDS charity.
A good sign with all of these places is that they've been around for a while.
Y'all Come Back n' See Us Now, Ya Hear!
Living in Austin and watching it grow has been a wonderful experience, especially
since Bobbi seems to have grown along with it. That the city should develop at the
same time we did is a bit of synchronicity we would have never expected, but we're
more than grateful for it. I think you'll enjoy your visit as much as we would enjoy
having you. Or as the natives are fond of saying "Y'all Come Back n' See Us Now, Ya Hear!"
[For more info about the Austin gay, lesbian, bi and TG scene check out The LoneStar Directory, the Austin Gay Friendly Online Directory, and the Central Texas Transgender Society home pages.]
Do you live in a city where transgender visitors -- and natives -- can find fun and a welcoming atmosphere? Interested in writing about it? Drop Cindy Martin a line!
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