Roberta On Makeup

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

By Roberta Angela Dee


Everyone is taking about alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). Many claim they are as close to the proverbial Fountain of Youth as the cosmetic industry has ever promoted.

The AHAs can be found in a wide variety of cosmetics -- some costing as little as $4.00 dollars for a one ounce tube of cleanser, to as much as $125.00 dollars an ounce for a one ounce jar of moisturizer from any one of several leading cosmetic houses.

What are they supposed to do? Essentially, they claim accelerated skin repair; reduced signs of aging; diminution of wrinkles; thinning out of liver spots; evening the complexion; and creating a healthy glow. Such promises, as most women are aware, are nothing new from the cosmetic industry -- an industry that has always offered better promises than performance. To understand what alpha hydroxy acids can and cannot do, it is important to understand the acids themselves.

The first myth plaguing consumers is the idea that there is only one type of alpha hydroxy acid. Actually, there are four types, and some have been around for several years. However, they are all generally known as “fruit” acids: citric, lactic, glycolic, and tartaric.

The chemical formula for synthetically produced citric acid is the same as that which occurs in Nature. So, technically, it’s not precise to say it is synthetic. However, the other three AHAs -- glycolic, lactic, and tartaric -- may be synthetically produced.

Merely because a product contains an AHA or an hydroxy acid (AH) is not indicative of successful skin treatment. Dermatologists have used these acids for years as treatments for severely dry skin and eczema at concentrations of 12% or more. Over-the-counter treatments offer considerably less concentrations. So, it’s not merely significant that a product contain an AHA, but also that it contain enough to work effectively.

For all the benefits, use an AHA or HA product with a pH between 3 and 4.5. Water has a pH of 7. Anything less than 7 is acidic, greater than 7 is alkaline.

The problem is that most cosmetic houses do not provide the consumer with the information required to make an informed decision. As a general rule of thumb, you get what you pay for. The least expensive products will not have a high enough concentration to be effective and may not be offered at the proper pH.

Estee Lauder’s Fruition lotion is an excellent AHA in a buffered solution. Unfortunately, it is also heavily scented. Therefore, if you have sensitive skin, the product may cause undue irritation.

In fact, the combination of products that I use do not contain AHAs at all. The reason being is that I shave, and the act of shaving effectively removes several layers of dead skin.

My regime consists of using Basis Soap along with a very fine facial scrub such as is available through Fashion Fair, Flori Roberts, or Estee Lauder. I follow the cleansing with an unscented shaving cream or hair conditioner. Next, I use a toner that contains no alcohol or fragrance. And as a mantle for my makeup, I use Estee Lauders’ Night Repair -- but there are several oil-free and unscented moisturizers that will work as well.

The combination of techniques I’ve described not only eliminates the five o’clock shadow but achieves many of the effects typically attributed to the use of AHAs.

And, again, write to me if you have any questions, or even just to say, “Hi, Roberta.”

Stay Sweet, Girls

Roberta Angela Dee
RADANGLE@aol.com


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