Breast Forms: What Size & Shape?

By Coreen Clark
One of the two most common "major investments" for the transgenderist can be the wig, and the breast form. This is usually less true for the transsexual person, but can be relevant in the initial stages of transition. Having breasts that are realistic can aid in one's confidence and help in going out in public. The whole experience can become more real to yourself, as well as to the general public. Presenting a more authentic figure helps in passing, but knowing for yourself, and feeling more genuinely feminine, can only boost one's confidence, which in turn adds to the "passing factor". But what style should one choose?... and how do you decide what size to buy? Taking the extra time to figure out your best figure sizing will certainly help you feel you are making a well educated purchase of an item that can be a serious cash outlay for some.

When I determine my sizing, I usually use some catalog with sizing information, such as the Sears catalog. Sizing is in fact very standardized, so a size (ie:) 14 from one company should have the same measurement requirements as another. Unfortunately, we all know that there are many "offenders" of this basic rule! Also, be aware that in looking at sewing patterns, most girls have to go up a size number to find the same measurements. Manufacturers long ago dropped all the size numbers, to make women feel good (as if they'd lost weight!) when in their particular garments. This gained them a temporary jump on the competition, until they too did the same. Now we're stuck with it because none of them would ever go back to the proper sewing sizes and experience the negative effect on sales!

So, in looking up a size 16 and 14, for example, the Bust/Waist/Hip measurements are; 39«/32/42" and 38/30«/40«" respectively. No matter what the size is, the basic ratios of the three areas' measurements stay virtually the same. In the transgendered community, most of us are lucky in that we can adjust the bust and/or hip to match a waist. This is where different schools of thought take separate paths. You have to decide if you prefer being natural (except for bust, usually) or going for extreme figure shaping, or some combination of both. You don't have to start with the waist as the reference either; the hip can be a good alternative if planning to use waist shapers of some sort. In fact, you don't have to start with anything as a reference! All of the three areas can be optimised with shaping to obtain "that hourglass figure that makes time stand still". Unfortunately this latter choice is the most difficult to implement, especially if one is a beginner.

I started with my waist in it's natural (though "sucked-in") size and adjusted my bust to fit the standard proportion ratios mentioned above. Being one of the "natural" types, I don't use hip pads to increase my hips to conform. Thus if sewing a new dress, I will take-in the hip right at the outset of pattern adjustment. The bust I use is a 38B, but it doesn't relate directly to height or garment size (I'm a size 18-20). Two girls needing the same bust measurement may have different bra sizes if there is a difference in chest width or breadth of back, for example.

My measurements don't fit perfectly into any one size. My bust fits for size 18-20, my waist 16 and hips 14-16. One may have to compromise somewhat. After all, many real women who buy a size 14 are not a perfect size 14, and it is accepted that the garment will fit a range of measurements. There is always some lucky girl who does fit it perfectly (I recommend scratching her eyes out if she flaunts in your face!). For myself in an 18, my bust is just a hair too big (usually, but not always, within range), my waist a bit tight (until I lost 2" off it recently, now it's a little loose!!), and my hips loose. If I buy a skirt, I go down to the proper size 16, because there is no bust to compromise for.


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Only in the last few months have I started using some figure shaping garments. Some never wear them, others always do. I may use a waist nipper, or a panty girdle with built in nipper (all from the Sears catalog). This is mainly for passing and especially when wearing tighter fitting pants. Though the nippers can take off 2" when my waist during those inevitable weight fluctuations, I use both of the fore mentioned garments to mainly change the shaping, or curves, w/o changing my basic measurements. You may be able to find a shop that can custom make these shaping garments. Hopefully all of the preceding information will help you decide what dress size you are, and from that, which breast form size, is best for you.

Of course, one can find their size by just trying the different ones on, but many girls are not truly experts in knowing what a proper fit should look like! For one thing, there is the often confusing issue of "design ease" in a garment. This basically boils down to how much extra fabric is added to the basic measurements to give it the desired "look". Terms such as "fitted", "semi-fitted, "loose fitted", etc. come into play. For instance, a loose fitting "smock" type top will have a lot of ease built in. A very clingy dress made of a stretch material such as Spandex, can even have "negative ease" (less material than the measurement, only possible due to the stretch). So, not only must you be physically able to fit into the piece, it might be suppose to have extra room in addition. This is why a custom made outfit is the best! It also takes care of the extra height most of us have over the standard sizings. Things like height of waist and hem as well as sleeve length can be made properly. The draw back, of course, is the cost.

This is all in preparation to buying the breast forms. They can be quite an investment, so it's nice to feel one is confident in the size chosen. It may not hurt to do the extra "math" with the catalogues, as mentioned previously, to bolster your confidence in the size decision.

Most businesses selling products of interest to the transgendered person carry a full line of breast forms, running from economically priced models, to "Cadillac" (and "Mercedes", and "Rolls Royce", and "Ferarri", and...) versions. Many are really designed for mastectomy patients, but work no differently for us. When it comes to forms, you usually get what you pay for. It's not a question of quality, but more of the realism in shape, texture, bounce, weight, and "added features" (if they have nipples for example). As always there are particular products not worth the price. Long ago, I ordered the "Treasure Chest" item from "Michael Salem". It was definitely unusable, and expensive. Beware of catalogues that use drawings to illustrate their products!

I have seen a good selection of forms in my local area, so to give a bit of an idea of what can be available, I will mention a few briefly. Keep in mind any prices are in Canadian dollars. The cheapest forms I've seen are sewn fabric that have been weighted inside. They are the least realistic, and don't conform to the chest as well. Still, if one's budget is limited, they are much better than the old stuffed pantyhose or Kleenex methods! Around the $150/pr. area are the new line made from the same rubbery plastic used to make fishing worms. They have a great feel (oo... now *stop* that you perverted person!) They have excellent value for the dollar and come in a vast range of sizes based on a chart of band versus cup sizes. For instance, if you use a 38B bra you select size 14 forms. Slightly more expensive are the Amoena model 127 swim forms (the "swim" part means they are safe to use in the normal heat and chemicals of swimming pools). These are what I have used for over a year, and still prefer. That is just a personal opinion, and it should be noted that many others don't share my sentiments. I just favour their shaping more. They are clear in color and have a slight nipple "bump". Being concave in the back, they fit nicely over my breasts (ok, pectoral muscles), and can produce a bit of "suction cup " action to aid in maintaining position. For a 38B bra the form size is 6.

Going beyond the above mentioned forms are ones that I term to be in the "Deluxe" range. This is where realistic color and nipples become standard. They are priced accordingly and can be several hundred dollars, on up, depending on the exact model chosen. They really are amazing! Due to the prices, they really should be viewed to see if that's the way you want to go. Several of my friends have such forms, but I personally can only wish for a set for the time being, with green-envy eye shadow on!

This should cover the "breast form basics". Just check with your local store or favourite Web site. Having decent breast forms does add a lot to projecting a realistic bust (no pun intended... or was it?). It's not only the shape, but a lot to do with natural bounce as one moves. Then, there are the inevitable occasions when someone accidentally (or on purpose!) brushes against one's breast. It's nice to know what they are feeling appears natural! Certain models of breast forms can even expand the types of fashions that can be worn, such as in low cut necklines, strapless gowns, etc. It's one investment that certainly comes up at some point in one's transgendered experience, but one that is well worth it!


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