About Electrolysis:

Whys, Wherefores and Watch outs

By Evelyn Perry

Many people find themselves with unwanted body or facial hair and may want to rid themselves of it. Of all the methods available-- shaving, waxing, plucking, chemical depilatories, mechanical depilators, and abrasives, the only method known to be permanent is electrolysis.

What Is It?

Electrolysis is the process where the hair follicles-- the roots-- are destroyed. Several techniques exist:

Which method is best?

Of the various methods, Galvanic, Thermolysis, and Blend are the most popular.

Thermolysis would be the quickest, but is not as effective unless the probe really reaches the root. Often, the pores (and hairs) are curved, in spirals or "J" shapes and the probe insertion cannot reach the root. People with curly hair often have curved follicles.

For people without perfectly straight hair (i.e. most of us), Galvanic would be more effective, but takes 30 seconds or more per hair, making the process very slow. Some electrologists use multiple needles so that many hairs are being simultaneously destroyed, speeding up the process.

But, one of the most popular methods is the Blend because it still creates lye in the pore but the lye is made even more effective because the radio energy heats it, speeding up the chemical process. Blend takes about 2-5 seconds to destroy each hair.

How Successful Is It?

Studies indicate that the typical success rate per appointment is about 80%. This means that 4/5ths of the hairs treated by a skilled electrologist, who applies the optimal amount of energy, are actually destroyed. If too little energy is used, the hair is "plucked," not destroyed, and many more will regrow. If too much energy is used, the success rate will be higher, but this comes at the expense of scarring the skin, producing acne-like pits and scars.

It must be remembered that only a fraction of one's hairs are actively growing at any one time. Most are dormant. The active growth cycle can last a couple of months and repeat every 9-12 months or more. Thus, to fully clear a given area takes a long time because some percentage of the follicles do not get fully destroyed and it takes many months to get another chance at them.

Electrologists say that to remove a beard typically requires 200 or more hours, spread over a few years. With consistent treatment the apparent re-growth of hairs diminishes in time and eventually can be controlled with only a few minutes of electrolysis per month, if that. Some people simply pluck an occasional hair rather than go to the trouble of having it removed by an electrologist.

What Is The Cost?

Electrologists typically charge $50-75 per hour in metropolitan areas, though substantial discounts for transgendered people-- those who will be booking many hours-- are quite common. While anyone who performs the simple arithmetic may be shocked at the total cost, remember that it is spread out over a long period of time and therefore the financial impact may be lessened.

Is It Painful?

The discomfort varies widely and depends upon the individual, the location on the skin, the technique, and the skill of the electrologist. Most electrologists offer topical anesthetics and sensitive individuals often take various pain medications or have parts of their faces numbed by novocaine, from a cooperating dentist. There is also a prescription-only topical anesthetic called EMLA that is highly effective and is applied to the skin an hour or two before the procedure.

Most people do report discomfort from electrolysis, but not everyone. There are individuals who report that they can sleep through a treatment.

How Do I Find A Good Electrologist?

Perhaps the best method is by referral, so you can be sure that a person has been cleared of hair without scarring. Short of that, talk with the electrologist about your concerns, see how clean the office is and how much attention the electrologist pays to cleanliness and client comfort.

Avoid those that promise miraculous results in short times or don't adequately sterilize their equipment. Some electrologists may hastily pluck hairs before the roots have been killed. When done properly, the hairs will come out with only a minimal plucking sensation, since the root has been destroyed. Plucked hairs will have a high grow-back rate. Experience and time will let you tell when a hair is being plucked prematurely or is really being destroyed. One can notice a definite reduction in hair density before too long in the treatment process, without ANY scarring, if the electrologist is effective. Most transgender organizations can recommend good electrologists in your area. Some electrologists offer introductory trials for little or no cost, allowing their skills to be evaluated.

What About Other Bodily Areas Besides the Face?

Any area can be cleared of hair, though the inside of the nose is not recommended due to the seriousness of a possible infection. But, hairlines can be modified, eyebrows shaped, hair removed from the ears, neck, back, chest, arms, underarms, hands, stomach, buttocks, legs, feet, etc. Bikini-lines can be cleaned up. Most any unwanted hair can be removed. Removing underarm hair can also go a long way to reducing body odor.

Do I Need Electrolysis?

For an occasional cross dresser, the commitment is probably not warranted, but for someone to whom passing is important, or to whom the hair is a real bother or embarrassment, it is a virtual "must" to eliminate the dreaded 5 o'clock shadow. Electrolysis also has the added benefit of leaving you with smoother the skin and apparently smaller pores, establishing a feminine appearance that no cosmetic can achieve.

@Transgender Forum and Evelyn Perry, 1995

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