Read the Label | |
Some years ago, while working on a book about painting, I interviewed a fellow who had 30 years of experience in the retail paint industry. I knew of his frustration with consumer complaints, and that most of those consumer paint problems were the result of do-it-yourself mistakes. My question to him was: "If you could give advice to perhaps thousands of readers, what would that advice be?" With little hesitation he replied: "Tell them to read the label on the paint can. Paint dealers see the returned paint and hear all the complaints. Most paint problems occur because people fail to read and heed the advice we give to them. Part of this is a general feeling that anyone can paint. But people also assume that one paint is like another and use the wrong paint for the surface they're painting. Or, they mix in leftover paint they have at home, in order to save it, and the two paints are not compatible. When the job fails they always blame the product. Paint chemistry is advanced and we do a lot of research. Paint quality rarely is the problem." Advice to read the label may seem elementary. Yet, because painting is the most commonly-done D-I-Y activity, many of us believe that painting is a simple chore, when in fact one must follow professional procedure to get a good paint job. Those who believe "anyone can paint" should check out the number of defective paint jobs in their own neighborhood. Following is a list of things you can learn simply by reading the label on the paint can. Check the label at the paint store to get such basic information as the manufacturer, the warranty, and the suitability of the product for your particular project. When you get the paint home, and before starting to paint, sit down with a cup of coffee and read all the application information. That will be the most rewarding 10 minutes of the entire project, and will ensure the ultimate success of the paint job. Manufacturer's Warranty A number of the home-oriented magazines such as Consumer Reports do periodic tests of various types and brands of paints and stains. To buy a top paint product, check out these test results and choose a paint that is made by a major manufacturer. The major players in the business have invested millions to ensure that paint is formulated to perform as warranted. Check also the label warranty information. Exterior paints today are warranted to last for 10 to 15 years. Note that most warranties are limited, meaning manufacturers limit their own liability to replacing the paint. Because the cost of the paint is a minor point, compared to the labor required to apply the paint, it is easily seen that you should buy only the best paint available. Cost As with all purchasing decisions, you should remember Branson's Second Law, which is: you don't always get what you pay for, but you never get more than you pay for. (Branson's First Law is: Murphy was an optimist.) Some products cost more because they are heavily advertised, but most often the price reflects the better-quality ingredients included in the product. For example, the price and grade of pigments such as titanium vary widely in cost, so a paint that is claimed to be "non-yellowing" may have a high-grade titanium that will not turn yellow with age, and so will cost more. Or, I recently checked the price labels on two different latex paints. One paint contained 65 percent water and cost $9 per gallon. The other, claiming to be "our finest interior latex" contained 51 percent water and cost $12 per gallon. Both were interior grade latex paints, and both were on sale. Which was the cheaper? The price difference was only $3 per gallon, and the paint with the lower water content -- but higher price -- no doubt would cover the old paint better and would present a more durable finish for cleaning. Like the auto filter company says, "you can pay me now or pay me later." Recommended Application Check the label to be sure the paint is recommended for use on your project. Some interior latex paints promise suitability for any interior surface, whether it be wallboard, plaster, wood paneling or masonry. But I always choose a latex that is labeled "ceiling flat white" for ceilings, because the flat sheen will look better and hide defects better on the large, unbroken ceiling surface than an ordinary latex would. For exterior applications that will be exposed to weather, I prefer to buy paint that is specifically formulated for the surface I'll be painting, not an all-purpose paint. For painting exterior concrete walls, for example, I would buy a masonry paint, not an ordinary house paint. Preparation The amount of surface preparation needed depends on the brand of paint you choose, plus the surface to which you will apply the product. For example, for painting bare wallboard, some labels advise that you simply apply two coats of their latex paint on the premise that latex wall paints are "self sealing." United States Gypsum (USG), a major wallboard manufacturer, recommends a first coat either of a high-solids latex or their First Coat latex primer as a first coat for wallboard. Some paint manufacturers advise using a first coat of either their own particular primer or an enamel undercoater on wallboard. We prefer USG First Coat latex on wallboard; and we advise never to use an oil-base primer on wallboard. I know that some texts do advise oil primer as a wallboard first coat: the authors of those texts should read the Gypsum Association handbook. As a further example of the need to read your product label, consider the advice of the California Redwood Association. They advise using an alkyd resin primer on new redwood siding, but advise using a stain-blocking latex primer if the redwood is air-seasoned or unseasoned. They advise using an exterior latex topcoat, over either the alkyd or the latex primer. Read the label instructions for best results. Spread Rate Most manufacturers recommend a spread rate of 350-400 sq. ft. per gallon. The spread rate is the number of square feet a gallon of paint should cover, when applied on a prepainted, smooth surface. New, unpainted or rough surfaces, will obviously soak up more paint and provide less area coverage. The amateur may try to stretch the paint, or get more coverage from the gallon. But paint that is applied too thin will not provide good hide or coverage, and the new paint film will be too thin to wash or clean successfully. Mentally check off an area of about 100 sq. ft., and check to see if you covered that area with one quart of paint. Try to apply the paint at the recommended spread rate. This is especially important when applying any "one coat" paint: obviously you must apply a generous coat if you expect the paint to cover in one coat, as advertised. Temperature and Humidity If you plan to use an oil-base or alkyd paint, you must observe the precautions regarding humidity. For example, you should not apply oil paint over dew-wet siding. If you are using latex paints (and you should, whenever possible) it is less important to watch humidity levels, although conditions that are too dry can cause edge drying and lap marks on the any paint. But it is always important to apply paint when temperatures are within the label guidelines, usually between 55 degrees and 80 degrees. Applying paint when temperatures are too hot or too cold can affect the drying time of the paint and will result in edge-drying, poor tool function, and an uneven paint job. Dry and Cure Time There are two time frames to observe on the paint label. One is the time required for the paint to dry sufficiently to recoat over it, and the second time limit is the amount of time needed for the paint to reach maximum film toughness for cleaning or scrubbing. It is important to note both these time limits. For example, you should remove any masking tape quickly, as soon as the paint is dry to the touch or too dry to run. This way, if any paint has run under the edge of the masking tape, it is still soft enough to clean up easily. Paint that has reached maximum hardness will be difficult to remove: fully hardened paint will also make the masking tape hard to remove. So do any cleanup as soon as the paint is dry to the touch. Don't try to scrub paint until it has fully cured. When paint is dirty, apply the cleaner (soap or detergent and water) in a blotting manner, just wetting the dirt. Do not scrub: you may scratch or remove the paint. Let the dirt soak to loosen and lift it from the paint, then wipe the dirt away gently. Sheen and Gloss The sheen or gloss level of the paint is an indication of its ability to reflect light. Manufacturers may identify the various gloss levels as "flat" (least sheen), "eggshell," "semi-gloss" and "gloss" (most sheen.) Keep in mind that the more sheen or gloss the paint shows, the more it will emphasize any defects in the painted surface. A good rule to follow is the flatter the finish, the better the hide or concealability of the paint. The lesson is that any surface to which you will apply a high gloss finish should receive extra preparation: i.e., apply patches to smooth any defects, and sand the surface thoroughly. Also, you should always apply an alkyd-base primer or enamel undercoater to the surface before applying a high gloss paint. Any unprimed surface will absorb paint unevenly, and this will cause a variation in the sheen of the paint finish coat. The downside or opposite argument is that generally flat finishes do not have as tight a surface seal and therefore are not as easy to clean as glossy finishes are. The more porous flat paint finish will permit dirt or oil to penetrate into the paint film, whereas the gloss paint will keep the dirt on the surface where it can be easily wiped away. The rule is to use flat paints for best "hide" on problem surfaces such as wavy plaster, and on all ceilings. Most people prefer the look of flat paint in formal rooms, and use gloss paints where there will be human contact (finger prints), high humidity, or activities such as bathing or cooking. written by Gary Branson Reprinted with permission. Copyright HouseNet, Inc. |