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GETTING READY TO PAINT
By Katie and Gene Hamilton

When painting a room, a good rule of thumb is to spend more time preparing the walls and ceiling than actually applying the paint. The fine art of paint preparedness is key to doing the job right. Here's a run-down of the equipment you'll need, some buying tips and advice on how and what to clean before you paint.

Basic Equipment
If this is your first painting project the best advice you'll get is to invest in good quality equipment and paint. Here's a checklist of equipment you'll need:

Drop cloths: If painting will always be a project you'll do yourself, invest in a couple of canvas drop cloths that are heavy enough to withstand rugged foot traffic and will save your carpeting or hardwood floors from abusive wear and tear. The 8 by 10 foot size is convenient to carry and move around and runs about $30. As an alternative, use plastic drop cloths ranging from $3 to $5. If there's a choice, go for the heaviest (highest mil number) plastic drop cloth. Check to see that you do not have a slippery combination because some fabrics will slip and slide on top of plastic.

When positioning, make sure there's at least a foot overlap between drops, and that they reach well into all corners of the room and under radiators or heating units.

Brush: Even though most of your painting will be done with a roller you still need a brush to "cut in" or apply paint in the corners where the roller can't reach. A 2 1/2 inch wide brush is the best tool because it is wide enough to carry enough paint for easy coverage into the corner but still lightweight and easy to handle. Either nylon or polyester brushes are your best choice for materials to use with latex or oil (Alkyd based) paints. Bristle brushes tend to go limp if used with water based latex paints.

Roller Handle, Cover and Pan: The easiest method for the do-it-yourselfer to apply paint to walls and ceilings is with a 9-inch wide paint roller. Purchase a good quality roller handle that can accept a screw-in extension pole. Check that the wire frame is stiff. An inexpensive handle with a light frame will flex as you apply pressure and you'll get an uneven coat of paint with it. A heavy stiff handle frame allows the roller to be worked into corners.

Most good quality roller handles are sold without covers (sometimes called sleeves). Purchase a cover labeled for walls and ceilings or one that has a nap between 3/8 and 1/2 inch. If you have to paint a textured ceiling or other rough surface, get a heavier roller cover, one with a longer nap.

The sleeve or roller cover should fit snugly on the handle roller. The better quality covers have a plastic core and are reusable. The cheaper 'disposable' covers have cardboard cores or are made of a sponge-like material. If your stint as a painter will be short-term, these covers are fine.

Purchase a sturdy paint pan. A quality pan has legs or corner brackets that allow you to hook it over the top of a ladder.

Do-it-yourselfer Power System: If you're painting several rooms the same color, try this inexpensive system used by the pros. Instead of using a roller pan get a 5-gallon paint bucket with a lid and a roller screen that fits into the bucket. You can purchase a roller screen at most large paint stores that cater to professionals. This screen hooks over the top edge of the bucket and hangs into the container.

To use the system, fill the bucket with a couple gallons of paint, dip the roller into it and work it up and down the screen. By pushing the roller over the screen you ring out the excess paint which runs back into the bucket.

The system works best with an extension handle screwed into the roller handle. This rig keeps you painting for a long time without stops to refill. When it's time for a break, just drop the grate into the bucket, snap on the lid and wrap the roller cover in some aluminum foil.

Getting Ready to Paint
Give a thorough dusting to ceiling corners, along baseboards and inside closets so you don't spread dirt into the paint. Use a rag wrapped around a broom or a vacuum's crevice tool and duster attachment to reach difficult areas.

Use a solution of trisodium phosphate mixed with water or Spic 'n ' Span™ to remove grease, grime and mildew. A strong household detergent works if phosphate-based solvents are not allowed in your area. Rinse the washed area with water and let it dry.

Before painting, make repairs to the drywall and plaster surfaces so they are completely smooth and free of cracks and holes. If there are ink or marker pen stains, use a stain killer. BIN™ is one widely available pigmented shellac that is effective as a primer to hold back stains so they do not bleed through your fresh coat of paint.

If you're working in empty rooms, you're lucky. Cover everything that's left in the room with old bed sheets, blankets or plastic drop cloths and tape closed. Relocate as much furniture as you can to other rooms. What can't be easily moved, place in the center of the room at least three feet away from walls. Cover up carpeting and hardwood flooring with a drop cloth and remove area rugs.

Protect all woodwork from the fine splatter left by the paint roller by loosely applying one-inch masking tape to the upper edge of all moldings and chair rails. Press the tape down gently to cover all surfaces where paint spray might land. The mastic used on masking tape will set if left in place too long so remove all tape as soon as the paint has dried.

If it's feasible, remove hanging chandeliers and wall fixtures, otherwise wrap them in plastic dry cleaning or garbage bags taped closed. Use the tape carefully so it covers only what is not being painted. Remove the electrical switch plate and outlet covers with a screwdriver and store them and the mounting screws together in a plastic bag.

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