Owens Corning

How to Prune a Tree

Mother Nature prunes trees naturally every time lightning strikes. When you and I prune a tree it's a little less spontaneous and dramatic. Pruning a tree does basically two things: it stimulates new growth in the tree while it shapes the size and direction of growth and pruning removes dead and diseased branches and limbs. This rejuvenation process opens up the tree for better air circulation and exposure to the sun, both vital to its continued good health.

If you're faced with several trees that need pruning or appear diseased consider hiring a professional tree trimmer who has both the expertise and equipment needed. Plan to be on hand to watch the procedure and ask questions. While this is not a trivial investment you'll learn from the experience and be able to better maintain your tree yourself in the future.

Some of the specific trouble spots that pruning can correct are:

  • crossed branches that rub against each other which creates a haven for disease
  • a weak or damaged crotch (the angled area between the trunk and a branch) that will eventually split off
  • an unbalanced spread of branches i.e. too heavy in one area and a bare spot in another.

Proper pruning can correct these defects in a young tree and encourage healthy new growth. But when you're pruning an older overgrown tree that's been neglected for years you're practicing preventive maintenance by enhancing its shape and warding off pests and diseases.

Pruning Tools and Tactics

Use a pruning or bow saw for thick branches and loppers for branches up to 3/4-in. in diameter. Shears can usually sever the small branches under 1/4-in. in diameter. If you have a fireplace or wood stove break up and save the branches for kindling.

You need a sturdy ladder for reaching the high branches of trees. They're available in various heights up to 10 feet and provide a safe platform for reaching tree branches. Position a ladder beneath and to the side of the branch being trimmed. Extend the ladder fully with the hinges opened and the end caps seated on firm level ground. Don't stand on the top rung of a ladder, it is safer to stand on a lower rung and work on branches within a comfortable reach. Don't lean and extend yourself far from the ladder; it's better to move the ladder frequently so it is close to where you're pruning.

If you have several trees that require pruning consider investing in a telescoping tree trimmer also called a pole pruner. It's a handy specialty tool that lets you reach high branches without a long ladder. The tool has a sectional pole handle that extends its reach and a powerful lopper that you operate (from the ground) with a cord.

If overgrown branches rub against a second story window you might be able to prune a tree from inside the house, but only do that if you're not required to reach far out of the window. If you have branches that hang over gutters and downspouts plan the task of cleaning downspouts at the same time you prune off unwanted branches.

Pruning Procedures

Stand back and look at the tree to decide what needs pruning and what should be left to continue growing. Take your time and walk around the tree observing it from all sides. This is easiest when you're pruning a new tree which has few branches that are easy to follow from the trunk outward. Pruning an older tree that's wildly overgrown is more challenging because it's difficult to see how all the branches are connected to the trunk.

To begin look for dead branches devoid of leaves or signs of new growth and diseased branches that look like they're decaying. Broken branches should also be pruned and removed so new growth can be stimulated. Prune away vertical branches that grow straight up and any crossover branches that touch other branches. Also remove sagging and bent branches.

Always keep in mind that you're trimming the tree, not severing limbs from it. The natural canopy or spread of branches around the tree isn't disturbed, instead the branches should be thinned out and trimmed.

The basic rule of pruning is to cut at a 45-degree angle just above an outward facing bud eye. Hold the branch slightly flexed and away from other branches so you have clear working room. Cut back a branch to where it meets another smaller branch to shorten it and let more air and light circulate around the tree. Remove the cuttings as you work and start a pile to use as kindling.

Periodically stand back and look at the tree to observe changes you've made. Move around the tree and view it from all sides. Remember you can't reattach a limb once it is cut away so work slowly and keep looking at the tree. This will help prevent you from over pruning in one area and creating a 'hole' in one side.

To remove a large branch from a tree make a jump cut. This is actually three cuts. The first two cuts cause the branch to jump or snaps away from the tree trunk, then the final cut tapers the wound. Make this cut only on a tree branch that will fall unobstructed to the ground.

Use a saw to cut upward from the bottom of the branch (this can be tricky) about 14 inches out from the trunk. By cutting upwards first you prevent the limb from cracking and pulling the bark away damaging the tree as you cut through the limb from above. Stop the cut when you're less that halfway through or when the saw begins to bind in the cut. Don't continue to cut a heavy limb or it will sag and pinch the saw blade in the cut making it difficult to remove. Then start another incision from the top of the branch a few inches out beyond the first cut. The branch will snap away from the tree leaving a stub.

Cut the stub away by first making an upward incision so the bark doesn't tear away as the stub falls off. Make the cut just slightly out from the tree trunk.

A young tree with two limbs of equal size that stem from the trunk like a wishbone is a likely candidate for a weak crotch. You can prevent this from happening by shortening one of the limbs. Go about half way up one of the limbs and cut off the top section at an outfacing bud eye. As new shoots develop the tree will be better developed.

written by Gene and Katie Hamilton

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