Big and Little Tool Boxes | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
TIME Required: half day for each (time needed for cutting, building, and assembling project; does not include drying time of glue or finish) Not too long ago, the first project most apprentices completed was a box to hold their tools. Here are two easy-to-construct traditional tool boxes, one scaled for a master craftsman, the other just right for his apprentice. These matching tool boxes are constructed out of inexpensive but hardworking pine with hardboard bottoms. There is room for long-handled tools such as hammers and saws, plus small items like nails and measuring tape. Your screwdrivers and chisels are stored in custom-made compartments that hold them all in a handy upright position. Our boxes are sized to be built with standard dimensional lumber with no long ripsaw cuts required. Since construction of both tool boxes is identical except for the dimensions, we will concentrate on the apprentice box. Begin by laying out the dimensions of the ends (A), sides (B), nail compartment partitions (D), and divider (E) on the wood (see Cutting List). Use a combination square to draw straight layout lines. Securely clamp the wood to a table, or place it in a vise for safe and accurate cutting. When cutting, keep your saw to the waste side of the layout lines. Don't forget to wear safety glasses or goggles whenever you use cutting or striking tools. The sloping end shoulders of part A are laid out by making a full-sized cardboard pattern (see building plan) and then tracing it on the face of the end. When you clamp part A for cutting, place a piece of scrap wood along the layout line to guide the saw. The handle slot in the divider (E) is next on the list. Make a mark for the slot holes 6 1/2 inches from the ends and 1 1/4 inches from the top edge. Through these spots, drill 1 inch holes to form the outside corners of the handle. Use a keyhole or coping saw to make straight cuts from hole edge to hole edge. Sand the handle cutout smooth with a piece of number 120 sandpaper wrapped around a short piece of dowel. After you've finished cutting all the parts, sand them with number 120 grit sandpaper. Then test fit the parts, and make any corrections that are needed before assembly. If everything fits, your tool box is ready to glue up. Make a light pencil mark down the center of the ends to help you keep nails straight. Drive number 4 finishing nails placed about 1 1/2 inches apart along this line. Then run a bead of carpenter's glue down the end of the divider, and align it in the center of the end (A). Check that the divider is flush with the bottom of side B, and then nail it in place. Do the same at other end. Before you glue on the sides, install nail compartments (D). Use glue and number 4 finishing nails. Then nail and glue on the sides. Your tool box is ready for its bottom. The bottom (C) is held in place with 1 inch roofing nails placed about 1 1/2 inches apart. Drill 1/8 inch pilot holes for these nails, then apply glue and nail the bottom in place. Your new tool box is ready for finishing. We like the natural pine look, but you can finish your box with paint or stain. After the finish has dried, you can customize your tool box to meet your exact needs by making tool holders out of heavy shoelaces held in place with tacks or staples. All you have to do is lay the tool in place, put the shoelace in position over the tool blade, and tack it down. Keep the shoelace snug but not too tight so that the tool will be easy to insert. Now that your apprentice has completed his own tool box, he'll be ready to tackle the larger box; he might not even need the master to help on this one.
Build It Together by Gene and Katie Hamilton (Stackpole Books) |