Christmas tree growing isn't a get-rich-quick scheme. But invest a few hundred dollars and an acre of marginal land and in 10 years or so you can reap up to $30,000. In the process you'll be providing an excellent environment for wildlife, stabilizing soil erosion and probably having some fun to boot. Even if you have only 1,000 square feet to spare you'll have plenty of room to grow a lifetime supply of Christmas trees for yourself, your children and their children.
Greg and Lisa Beliveau of St. George, Vermont, have taken over a 20-acre choose-and-cut Christmas tree plantation that Greg's father started about 20 years ago. "My father started it as a hobby while he was flying for TWA," Greg says. "He thought it would be fun to grow trees and perhaps interest one of his sons in working the land. After I received a degree in horticulture, I explored other professions. Eventually, I realized that I loved being outdoors and working with plants. Running my father's Christmas tree plantation seemed like the natural thing to do," he explains.
For three years Greg and Lisa have been getting the plantation back into shape. "Dad let the operation go a bit. He didn't mow regularly, let some trees get too tall and didn't replant new seedlings every year. Weeds and hardwood saplings were slowing the growth of the trees," Greg notes. "Now we're mowing
two to three times a year, culling older trees, trying to save those with a good shape and dense growth, and planting new trees.
"The original plantation had mostly Scotch pines (the national favorite among growers), but it seems that people here in Vermont now prefer balsam firs, so we're planting more of them," he continues. Growers like Scotch pines because they grow faster than balsam firs. However, buyers like balsam trees for their distinct fragrance and because their firm branches make it easy to hang ornaments.
Getting started
Christmas tree growing is a job for those with plenty of patience. It can take eight to 16 years, depending on the species of tree, for a seedling to reach a six-foot salable size. There are a couple of different methods you can use to grow the best-looking tree in the shortest amount of time.
"We plant (1-0) or (2-1) seedlings in transplant beds for two to three years," says Greg. A (2-1) seedling means it has lived two years in a seedling bed (first number) and been transplanted into a nursery bed for one year (second number). The seedlings cost between 11 cents and 50 cents per tree depending on the species and age of the seedling. Balsam firs are more expensive than pines, for example, but also command a higher price when sold. Seedlings can be purchased from state or private nurseries in spring or fall, depending on where you live.
"In spring, we till the bed, broadcast a complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10 and plant trees on 4-in. centers," Greg explains. "We give the transplants an inch of water a week for the best growth." Using a transplant bed has several advantages. "We can treat the bed like a garden, weeding and fertilizing seedlings so they put on growth more quickly," he adds. They're easier and less
expensive to take care of since they're planted close together and you can select the best quality trees to plant out in the field. The survival rate of the trees going into the field is as high as 95% because the seedlings are older and have stronger root systems. "I don't think the extra step of transplanting sets the tree back at all, though it does add more work," Greg comments. "We dig seedlings out of the bed with a shovel, shake off the soil and place them in a bucket of water so the roots don't dry out until we're ready to plant," adds Lisa.
Another option, if you have a small operation, is to buy larger, more expensive seedlings such as (3-2)s and plant them directly into the field, A (3-2) seedling costs three to four times more than the younger seedlings, but planting older trees allows you to harvest in less time. If you're only growing a few trees, the added expense isn't much.
The Beliveaus do most of their planting in spring, before bud break (early May in Vermont). Many growers prefer fall planting because it gives the trees a chance to put on root growth before a new flush of top growth. But Greg cautions, "We've fall planted on our clay soil and lost many trees when the ground heaved in winter, exposing the tree crown and roots. If snow cover is poor, winter winds dry out the crown and roots, killing the trees."
To prepare the field for planting, many growers spray an herbicide such as glyphosate (Roundup) in autumn along a 3-ft. strip where they'll be planting the following spring. If you'd rather not spray an herbicide, you can mow the strip at a very low setting to knock down grass and brush, then till under the sod
strip. In spring, plant trees on five- to six-foot spacings with the same distance between the rows.
If you have limited space, you can interplant young seedlings with maturing trees. "I've actually seen rows of young trees in between rows of maturing Christmas trees spaced three feet apart," says Greg. Though this saves space, it creates more maintenance problems of mowing, shearing and harvesting the trees.
Feeding your trees
Test the soil to determine its pH and nutrient levels. Most conifers grow best in a soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5. They don't need large amounts of fertilizer. When and if you feed them depends on the soil, tree species, area of the country and your pocketbook. If you're planting an old pasture the decaying grass will release plenty of nutrients. "Some trees may never need fertilizing," Greg
explains. "Scotch pines grow so fast on any type of soil, fertilizing them is like throwing your money away.
Growing in the field
Once the trees are established, you have just two main jobs: mowing and shearing. Mow weeds and grass at least twice a year. Not only will weeds !compete for nutrients and slow the trees' growth rate, they also shade out lower branches, which can cause deformed growth. Mowers cut well between rows, but for the grass around the tree you're limited to herbicides (such as glyphosate) or hand clearing. Don't use string trimmers because they can
easily damage the bark, inviting disease infections. Fabric mulch around the base of the trees could control weeds, but on a large scale it's not economical. "I think it would be better suited for the transplant bed," Lisa comments.
The only other task to worry about is shearing. It's like pruning fruit trees; the best way to learn is through practice. When to shear varies with the type of tree and region. Most trees should be sheared in summer or fall.
Faster-growing trees require more shearing than slower-growing trees, but all trees should eventually conform to a two-to-one ratio: the height should double the diameter of the base.
Greg starts his annual shearing when the trees are 3 to 4 ft. tall. The first step is to develop a strong central leader. "If there are two leaders, pick the stronger and straighter of the two," he says. "Remove the other one, leaving a
few inches intact so that a whorl will form from the remaining buds to fill out the top. Prune the remaining leader at a 45 degree angle, leaving about 12 in. of growth." "Try to nip it close to the top because those buds are stronger," explains Lisa.
A hand pruner is the best tool for pruning the central leader, but Greg likes a hedge clipper or machete blade for tipping the side shoots (removing the last few inches of growth). "I try to visualize the ideal shape of the tree and cut off any shoots outside that shape. I also work around the whole tree to be sure
it's symmetrical. Tipping the side shoots encourages whorls of branches to form, filling out the tree and giving it a dense Christmas tree shape," he explains. "I always try to cut away from my body with the machete blade because it's easy to injure yourself with a bad swing. Professional shearers even wear chaps to protect against mistakes."
Christmas trees are all sheared similarly. The major difference is the amount of time it takes to shear various species. Fast-growing trees such as Douglas firs and Scotch pines require an extra amount of work. "It's like starting over every year. If not sheared properly, they tend to round out," Greg says. Slow-growing trees such as balsam and Fraser firs have a natural Christmas tree shape and require relatively little work.
Annual shearing continues until the year you anticipate selling the tree. "We give the trees a light shearing the last year, removing any obviously errant side shoots. In a largescale operation, if the tree doesn't sell that year you'd remove it. In our small operation we can't afford to lose trees," Greg explains, "so we prune out the lower branches, cut the tree higher up the trunk and sell it as a six-foot tree."
The bottom line
Once you've got your trees ready, you still need to sell them. Growing full, dense Christmas trees is only half the battle. Dave Russell, a Christmas tree grower in Starksboro, Vermont, says to be successful you need to remember one word: marketing. Advertising in the local newspaper and on radio helps attract people to your tree farm, but word of mouth is usually the most effective advertising for a small operation. For people to choose your beautiful balsams over your neighbors' you need something extra.
Dave's something extra is a bit of country charm. "I offer free horse drawn sleigh rides from my farmhouse to the tree pasture for anyone wanting to cut their own tree. Last year we started right after Thanksgiving and had 100 to 150 families cut trees," he explains.
Greg and Lisa Beliveau take advantage of the older, nonsalable trees and some wild stands of conifers to make wreaths and boughs for customers. "People come to cut a tree, but many leave with a wreath or bough as well," claims Lisa. "To attract attention to our operation we had a friend bring his sled dogs over one year to help tree choppers haul their trees from the field to their car."
It may take a long time to get a return on the trees and at certain times of year the work can be grueling, but as Lisa Beliveau says, "It's a long-term investment and you don't have to be constantly there for the trees. Anyway, Christmas is a happy time and it's fun working with people in the Christmas spirit."
What fir...(or pine or spruce?)
BALSAM FIR
(Abies balsamea)
Commonly grown in the Northeast and North Central U.S.
10 to 12 years to harvest
Shearing time: July to September
Common pests and diseases: Spruce budworm and woolly aphid
Comments: Classic Christmas tree shape with little shearing; prefers moist, well-drained soils; slow growing; fragrant; doesn't hold needles as long as Fraser fir or Scotch pine.
DOUGLAS FIR
(Pseudotsuga menziesii)
Commonly grown in the Northwest and some in the Northeast
8 to 10 years to harvest
Shearing time: July to August
Common pests and diseases: Swiss needle-cast, Cooly spruce gall aphid
Comments: Prefers mild, humid climate; does best in low winds and high moisture conditions; needs heavy pruning; fast growing; soft, short-needled fir.
EASTERN RED CEDAR
(Juniperus virginia)
Commonly grown in the Deep South
6 to 7 years to harvest
Shearing time: midsummer
Common pests and diseases: Cedar apple rust
Comments: Popular as a Christmas tree in rural areas of the Deep South; tolerates adverse growing conditions and poor soils; fast-growing; needs only one shearing a year.
EASTERN WHITE PINE
(Pinus strobus)
Commonly grown in the Northeast, Southeast to Georgia and North Central U.S.
8 to 10 years to harvest
Shearing time: June to July
Common pests and diseases: White pine blister rust, white pine weevil
Comments: Prefers moist, sandy soil; tolerates some shade; fast growing, soft long-needled tree; needs heavy annual shearing and shaping; doesn't tolerate air pollutants such as ozone and salt spray.
FRASER FIR
(Abies fraseri)
Commonly grown in the Southeast above 3,000 feet elevation
12 to 14 years to harvest
Shearing time: July
Common pests and diseases: Woolly aphid
Comments: Highly desired Christmas tree that grows well only in the mountains of North Carolina; classic Christmas tree shape with little shearing; slow-growing; fragrant; holds needles well after being cut.
NOBLE FIR
(Abies procera)
Commonly grown in the Pacific Northwest
12 to 16 years to harvest
Shearing time: July to August
Common pests and diseases: Root rot, spruce budworm, woolly aphid
Comments: Needs adequate drainage; prefers a humid, cool environment; doesn't tolerate high pH soils; slow-growing; naturally bushy Christmas tree shape.
SCOTCH PINE
(Pinus sylvestris)
Commonly grown in the Northeast and North Central U.S.
8 to 10 years to harvest
Shearing time: June to July
Common pests and diseases: White pine weevil
Comments: The most popular Christmas tree grown; prefers sandy soil and plenty of moisture; fast-growing, soft-needled tree; needs heavy annual shearing; holds needles well after being cut. High variation in color and adaptability due to many strains of the tree.
VIRGINIA PINE
(Pinus virginia)
Commonly grown in the Southeast
5 to 6 years to harvest
Shearing time: Twice a year (every 7 to 9 weeks) beginning in May or June
Common pests and diseases: Virginia pine aphid
Comments: Basis of Christmas tree industry in the South; intolerant of shade but tolerates heavy clay and poor soils; needles resemble Scotch pine.
WHITE SPRUCE
(Picea glauca)
Commonly grown in the Northeast and North Central U.S.
10 to 12 years to harvest
Shearing time: August to September
Common pests and diseases: Trunk and root rot
Comments: Tolerates some shade; slow- and consistent-growing tree, requiring only a few shearings in its lifetime; doesn't hold needles after cutting as well as balsam fir or Scotch pine.
HOW TO RECYCLE YOUR CHRISTMAS TREE
Although there's something special about making bonfires our of dead Christmas trees in the cold January air, there are a host of better uses for the tree after the holiday season is over. Once shredded, the branches and boughs make an excellent mulch for your garden. If you can't use them in your own garden, many towns recycle trees, turning them into wood chips and mulch to be used by the municipality. Contact your local Department of Public Works to see if such a program exists in your town.
Birds love to rest on the limbs of your trees. Use the tree as a backyard bird feeder, placing orange slices, suet or bread on the branches to attract birds. It even works well in a pond as a bird feeder and refuge. Finally, fir foliage can be stripped from the branches and used to fill aromatic fir-needle pillows for a sofa or bedroom.
Copyright NGA
Reprinted with permission HouseNet, Inc.
Grow Your Own Christmas Trees
By Charlie Nardozzi
With more than a million acres planted in Christmas trees in the United States and in excess of 35 million trees sold each year, Christmas tree farming is big business. However, it doesn't have to be that way. Many operations are small family owned and operated choose-and-cut stands.