Owens Corning
Advice for First-Time Paper Hangers
Keep it simple and your first wallpapering project is sure to be a success. By simple, we mean choose a back bedroom where you can practice using the tools and fussing with the paper. When you feel confident, you can move, front and center stage and hang paper in the front hall where everyone will see your work.

Don't tackle a kitchen or bathroom for your first job because they are difficult spaces to work in. In kitchens, some tricky cuts are needed around cabinets and soffits and bathrooms are usually tight working quarters.

It's surprising, but one of the hardest aspects of papering is choosing a pattern. If you are going to invest the time to hang the paper, spend the time to find something you like. Most stores that stock wallcovering will allow you to check out their sample books. These are filled with useful information, not to mention a stunning array of patterns and decorating ideas.

Consider the moderately priced papers with a "short repeat" for your first job. Wallcoverings with a 6-in. repeat means the pattern of the paper repeats itself every 6 inches so the most you will have to move a sheet of paper is 6 inches up or down for perfect alignment. You'll find the pattern repeat is noted on the back of each sample.

Wallpaper is usually priced per single roll, which usually covers about 36 square feet if the roll is from an American company and 28 square feet if it's manufactured in Europe. However, wallpaper is usually sold only in double roll quantities.

To figure the number of rolls you need for a room, measure the length of each wall and round off the number to the nearest foot. Add the figures for each wall together and then multiply the sum by the ceiling height. This is the total wall area (sq. ft.) of your room. Divide this area by the roll coverage (36 American or 28 European) to calculate the number of rolls you need. You will have some extra paper since you will not have to cover the window and door area. If you have a picture window or several doors, then subtract the area for these openings from the total wall area before you calculate the number of rolls. It's a good idea to have extra wallpaper for your first job in case you make a few misguided cuts so get an extra roll to have on hand.

You'll need premixed wallpaper adhesive and a brush to apply it, a smoothing brush to remove wrinkles and bubbles in the paper once it's on the wall, and a seam roller to smooth the seams. You'll also use a pair of household scissors, a pair a small pointed scissors, plumb line, razor knife, wide blade putty knife, and wall sponge.

For safety's sake, turn off the electricity to the room to avoid hitting a live wire when you're making cuts around receptacle outlets. Remove switch and receptacle plate covers and any pictures on the walls. Move furniture away from the walls by stacking it in the center of the room and see that the walls are clean and free of dust and cobwebs before you begin. Work during the day or bring in lights from another power source if you're working at night. Use a drop cloth on the wall you're working on and move it around the room with you as you work.

Begin hanging paper in a corner by using a plumb line to find a straight line to align the first sheet of wallpaper. Cut your first sheet the height of the wall plus 6 inches and apply adhesive to the back of the paper. To keep the adhesive wet, fold the paper back on itself while you're carrying it to the wall.

Work your way around the room lining up the pattern with each new sheet. When you come to a window or opening, use small pointed scissors to make diagonal cuts so the paper lies flat in the corners.

Keep a wet sponge handy to wipe away any adhesive that oozes out of the seams or at the ceiling line.

Written by the editors of HouseNet
Copyright HouseNet, Inc.

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