Accessibility Around the House | |
DOORS Double entry doors are a plus for those with limited mobility, but a person in a wheelchair can negotiate any 36-in. wide door. This is not only true at entry doors: wider doors are better at all rooms. Bathrooms, bedrooms, and closets can have doors that are 32 in. wide, providing there is a wide (4-ft.) hall that permits a turn to be made before entering the narrower door. If you have standard 3-ft. wide halls, you can either make the hall wider, or install 36-in. doors to permit turning and entry for wheelchairs. As noted elsewhere, pocket, sliding, or bi-fold doors are preferable to the ordinary hinged version, a door that swings into the room and thus takes up space. Some experts suggest hinging bathroom doors to swing out into the hall, rather than swinging into limited bathroom space. Remove Unneeded Doors One way to gain extra space, simplify passage between rooms, and make small rooms look larger is to remove any unneeded doors. For example, post-war tract houses were often built with a center bedroom that had two doors: one opening into the kitchen, the other into the center hall. This setup permitted young families to use the space either as a third bedroom or nursery or as an eating area accessible from the kitchen. In one such house I decided to use that space as a small dining room, which meant that the two doors were unnecessary for privacy. I removed both doors, used latex wood filler to fill in the hinge mortises in the door jamb, and painted the door jamb and trim. The result is 2 wood-trimmed openings, with no doors. With the doors removed, the room seems larger, and the removed doors were just an unneeded nuisance. Survey your own home and decide whether doors into dens, dining space, or family rooms are needed. I have a door on a bedroom-turned-TV den. The door interferes with furniture placement when open, because it opens back against a wall. Yet the door has never been closed in the 6 years I have lived in the house. Often, doors decrease the actual door width by the thickness of the door and hinge extension, so removing the door may mean the difference between being accessible or impossible for entry by a person in a wheelchair. For resale, I stored my unused doors in a basement storeroom, in the event that a future buyer prefers to use the space as a bedroom and wishes to replace the doors. Entry Doors Particularly in colder climates, entry doors may consist of 2 doors: the entry door plus a combination or "storm" door. The combination door serves as both a screen door and a secondary barrier to cold weather. But combination doors often have openers on them, openers that may interfere with entry when they are mounted low or restrict the door so it cannot be fully opened. If the combination door is a problem you can replace the primary door with one that is made of either fiberglass or metal and has a foam insulation core. The insulated doors often are more energy efficient than the old 2-door setup, while eliminating the need for the combination door. Shop for metal doors by companies such as Pease or for fiberglass doors by Therma-Tru Corp. WINDOWS Double-hung windows are the most common type seen in older houses. They are the windows that can be opened from the top down or from the bottom up by moving either top or bottom sash in its tracks. The older versions of these windows may rattle and leak cold air inside, or they may stick and be almost impossible to operate for those with reduced strength or mobility. New double-hung windows are properly weather-stripped and may have adjustment screws in the tracks that can adjust the tension on the window sash, making them easier to open. Proper cleaning and lubrication of the window hardware will also make them easier to operate. But if you are planning to build or remodel, consider using casement windows that have either cranks or pull levers that permit you to open the window while seated. Make sure window sills are not more than 36 in. from the floor so a person seated in a wheelchair can see out. Horizontal sliding windows usually have their handles mounted halfway up the window. If you have this type, consider mounting another D-shaped handle at the bottom of the window for easier maneuvering. Roof or skylight windows are another popular option that can increase light levels. They can be opened for air circulation and ventilation. Some roof windows can be equipped with power openers and remote control devices. Window Coverings For window coverings, the person with limited mobility does not want blinds, topped with sheers or draperies. The best choices for win-dow coverings are roll-up shades with long cords (make sure the cords are properly secured if small children are present), tailored tieback curtains, lightweight draw draperies with good hardware and an easy to reach cord, and louvered blinds. Mini-blinds can reduce glare from direct sunlight while still offering good visibility to the outside. The blinds can also be closed to ensure the privacy and security demanded by seniors and others. HARDWARE AND LOCKS Pull handle hardware is also available for replacement on furniture such as wardrobe chests. You can also inspect the track hardware on drawers, and clean and lubricate the tracks and rollers as needed. For drawers without metal tracks, where wood drawers slide on wood guides, lubricate the wood contact surfaces with carpenter's wax (beeswax) or a candle stub. Periodic maintenance can reduce sticking drawers and doors that bind. Door locks can be a frustrating barrier to those with poor coordination, reduced gripping strength, or failing eyesight. Consider using push-button, numbered code door locks at entries. Round door knobs can also be difficult to turn for those with arthritic hands. Perhaps most difficult to handle for the aged are the locks with thumb-levers, which can require great hand strength to operate, especially so as the locks age. Lever-type door handles are the easiest to use. Choose a lock with lever handles long enough to be operated with a push of the elbow or the edge of the hand. Entry door locks are not the only lock barriers we meet. All round knobs, even on interior privacy or passage (room) doors can offer obstacles. Replace all interior door knobs with lever-type locks, or check out add-on levers that can be mounted over existing round door knobs. These lever add-ons cost under $15 each and are excellent, low-cost alternatives to lock replacement. The lever add-ons are easy to install and require no carpentry skills. FLOOR COVERING Almost any of the popular flooring options can be used in barrier-free houses, if you select the product with care. Vinyl floor covering is available for institutional use and is designed to be durable, attractive, and non-slip. Ceramic tiles with non-slip finishes are also a viable option for entry, kitchen, or bath flooring, as are the various hardwood flooring options. The prime consideration in floor safety is keeping the flooring clean and properly maintained. We have discussed this to some extent in other chapters. Two things we could add, however. The first is never to use throw or scatter rugs on floors where people of limited mobility must walk. Throw rugs represent hazards both from tripping and from slipping, if the rug slips from underfoot when placed on a slippery surface. The second factor to keep in mind is that any changes in floor level, such as a transition between a vinyl floor and one that has thick carpeting can be hazardous. While this small transition may be unnoticed by those of us who are fully ambulatory, they may provide a tripping barrier for those with a hesitant or shuffling gait. Nailing a 3/8-in. layer of plywood over the existing kitchen or bath floor can bring the vinyl floor more even with the carpeted living or dining room floor. When you install new non-slip floor covering, consider laying lauan plywood over the old floor covering, rather than trying to remove it. LIGHTING We have discussed outdoor or entrance lighting in the first chapter and the need for focused work lighting in the kitchen. Good lighting is needed on the countertop in areas where food is prepared and over stoves or cooktops where lack of clear vision could result in a painful burn or scalding from spilled food. In addition, night lights in halls or in bedrooms of those who are often up at night can eliminate falls caused by darkness and poor visibility. Remove all low furniture such as footstools, coffee tables, or magazine racks from the walking path, or remove them altogether. These low items are hard to see in the dark and can represent a real tripping hazard to the unsteady. I prefer to install dimming switches on all my lights and use them at low level for night lights in halls or bath-rooms. Buy the dimming switches that have built-in lights in the switch toggles, so you can easily find them in the dark without fumbling. Buy lamps that operate at a touch. Any lamp that has a metal base can be adapted to touch control by adding an adapter. There are also devices that operate lights by voice command. Telephones, too, are available with a light that flashes with each ring, making the device easy to find in the dark. Other lighting options include those with motion-sensors. These can be used inside as a convenience item or on the exterior for both convenience and as a home security measure. Electrical Outlets Modern electrical codes insist on having electrical outlets spaced no more than 12 ft. apart. The purpose of this is to eliminate the need for extension cords for lamps and household appliances. People tend to abuse extension cords, pulling them out by the wire rather than pulling on the plug or leaving them on the floor where they be-come worn and dangerous. Have house wiring updated to ensure you have plenty of outlets and need no extension cords. This step is important for preventing electrical shocks as well as eliminating a primary fire (and/or tripping) hazard. While you're having the wiring updated, don't neglect to install ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) not only in the bathroom, laundry, and kitchen but also in the garage, workshop, and on exterior electrical outlets used to run lawn tools and such. Strip outlets are available for under-cabinet use, where you need outlets for small kitchen appliances. Add the extra outlets when you wire in new lighting for under-counter or over-sink lights. FAUCETS We've talked about anti-scald valves for burn prevention while in the tub or shower. There are also anti-scald controls in bath and kitchen faucets. The best insurance against burns is to turn the water heater thermostat down so the water is not hot enough to injure you. Drop the thermostat down to 120 degrees. If hot water must be mixed with cold to be tolerated on skin, or if steam comes out of faucets when you turn them on, your water temperature is at dangerous levels and could badly burn any person who might have difficulty moving quickly out of harm's way. All faucets in the house should have U-shaped or single lever controls. Ordinary faucet handles of glass or chrome may be slippery and hard to operate for those with diminished gripping power. Lever faucets let you control both water volume and temperature levels with one hand. If necessary, the lever handle can be operated by a push of the elbow or the wrist. Some faucets can be operated by infrared sensors, of the type often found in public places such as restaurant or athletic club rest rooms. The automatic faucets sometimes offer either manual or sensor controls, depending on the needs of the operator. When you place your hands by the sensors at the base of the faucet, the faucet flows. These faucets have preset water flow and temperature control. One such model is called the Cue-Tel. It is available from: Columbia Electronic Research Group, Ltd. 50 Doughty Blvd. Lawrence, NY 11559 Other kitchen faucets have pull-out extensions that let you fill deep kettles or pails. These options can be useful for filling scrub or cleaning pails without moving to the laundry or utility area. FIRE SAFETY Fire safety begins with smoke or fire alarms placed strategically throughout the house. The most common points for fire to begin are in furnace/utility rooms, in kitchens, and in attached garages. For smokers, the fire hazards can extend to the bedroom and family rooms where people congregate and smoke. Install smoke detectors on all floors of the house. Place alarms near furnace or heating equipment, at the top of any stairs, in attached or tuck-under garages, and in the kitchen. Because most fires occur at night when people are sleeping - between 10 p.m. and 6 a.m. - fire or smoke alarms should also be located in hallways that serve bedrooms, just outside of bedroom doors. Some smoke detectors include a built-in escape light that comes on when the alarm is triggered. Fire or smoke alarms can be wired into the electrical service of your house - called "hard wired" - or can be battery operated. If you choose the hard-wired type, purchase one with a built-in battery backup in case of power failure. If you choose battery-operated alarms, be aware of the need to test the alarm frequently (at least once a month) to be sure the battery is still charged. The National Fire Protection Association recommends that you change the batteries in your smoke detectors each year at the daylight-to-standard time change. There have been many fire reports that tell of faulty or non-operating alarms, either disconnected or having dead batteries. On battery-operated alarms there is a test button that can be pushed to see if the alarm activates. Testing the batteries should be a part of routine home maintenance. Smoke detectors are available with strobe lights that flash to alert the hearing-impaired person. Special electrical outlets are available that can be wired directly to a fire-alarm system. In the bedroom, such a system could trigger a fan or bed-vibrating mechanism plugged into the special outlet to alert the sleeping resident in case of fire. This could be helpful for anyone. One product on the market could be especially useful for the disabled user. The Eveready Battery Co. markets the Eversafe Child Locator. Designed to be used in a child's room, it is equally useful for any person who might need extra help escaping a fire. The device combines a smoke detector, which is mounted on the ceiling of the bedroom, with a flashing red locater light, which attaches to the bedroom window with suction cups. When the smoke detector goes off, it triggers the flashing light, alerting rescue personnel. This product is available from: Eveready Battery Co. Inc. 39 Old Ridebury Road Danbury, CT 06817-0001 800-323-8177 Be sure that all upholstery and bedding in the house is fire retardant. Install fire extinguishers on all levels of the house and check to be sure they are charged. It is estimated that one-third of house fires occur in the kitchen, so install a fire extinguisher at a level that can be reached by any adult family member. Flame retardant chemicals are available in pump-type containers. Flame retardants can be used on furniture, upholstery, drapes, or mattresses. There are also flame retardants that can be used on live Christmas trees. FURNITURE The size of the room should determine where furniture will be located. If the room is small, leave the center of the room open for easy traffic flow and place the furniture around the edges. If the room is large, put the furniture in a center "island" with 4- to 5-ft. wide areas for traffic flow around the perimeter of the room. You may want to put tables and small furniture on casters so they will be easy to move. Book shelves in the barrier-free home should be easily accessible. The lowest shelves should be mounted at least 10 in. above floor level, and the highest should be mounted no more than 48 in. above the floor. The depth should be about 16 in., although narrower shelves may be especially useful for books and similar items. The best height for the seats of sofas and chairs is about 18 in. from the floor, especially for the elderly and those who use crutches, canes, or braces. The seats should be firm rather than soft, so the person can rise easily. To adjust the height of a chair to the user's comfort, cut down the legs to lower the chair or firmly attach the legs to blocks or a platform to raise it. Don't add a thick cushion to the seat to raise the height; this will put the chair's arms at an uncomfortable height. Recliner chairs are a good choice as they are generally firm, heavy, and stable. You might want to look into upholstered chairs generally used as office furniture, as they are often heavier and higher than standard home furnishings. Check the Yellow Pages under "Office Furniture." Drop-front or wide kneehole desks are generally best for the wheelchair occupant. The top surface of the desk should be about 32 in. from the floor, with a clearance of 29 1/2 in. from the surface of the desk to the floor (this will permit the wheelchair's arm rests to slide under the desk's surface). Wheelchair occupants and most others will need a minimum of 24 in. of front to back depth for their feet and legs. Desks and tables with a U-shaped front cutout may be the most comfortable for children and adults. The wrap-around sides of the desk provide extra support for the arms and shoulders, and books and papers are easier to reach. You can make a wrap-around surface by topping a steady table with a sheet of plywood with the U-shape cut out. The top surface of a bed's mattress should be even with the height of the wheelchair seat for a wheelchair user. The bed can be raised on blocks (be sure the bed is securely attached to the blocks) or a platform to bring the mattress up to the proper height. The mattress should, of course, be firm. For transfer from a wheelchair, about a 3-ft. minimum clearance is needed between the side of the bed and the wall or the side of the bed and other furniture. A firm, steady headboard is often a boon to the physically limited. Grab bars can be added to the headboard if necessary. Written by Gary Branson Reprinted with permission. Copyright HouseNet, Inc. |