----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: eric.w@genie.com
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 95 03:46:00 UTC 0000
Subject: Window condensation errors
I wish to correct some inaccuracies in your article on window condensation.
Condensation on the inside of a window pane is a sign that airborne water is trapped in the house due to poor air circulation and exchange. This usually means that the furnace is not getting enough air for proper combustion. To test this, tape a piece of kite string to the molding above a window. Make certain that all he windows and doors are tightly closed. Wait until the furnace goes on. After the furnace has been on for about two minutes, open the window.
This is not the only reason, nor the most common reason for condensation on a window. Excessive humidity in the home is the most common culprit, and you need to check the humidity levels in the home. Also check for proper roof and crawlspace ventilation. The condensation needs to go somewhere. U of Illinois publishes an excellent report on causes and cures for condensation. The problems you suggest with the furnace are unlikely, and the problems I mention above should be checked first.
When condensation forms between the two layers of glass in a double pane window, it is a sign that the airtight seal has been broken, allowing humid air to penetrate between the panes. The only way to fix the problem is to replace the glass. Since seal failure is often caused by an error in the original installation, it will be replaced by the manufacturer if the window is still under warranty.
Seal failure will occur in all insulated glass units eventually. Within the first year it's an error in installation. In the first 10 years it's a poorly formed seal. Beyond that, well nothing lasts forever. Most window warranties are 20 years pro-rated.
One final type of condensation occurs between single pane windows and exterior storms. Storm window frames are made with a breathing hole that permits condensation to escape. These breathing holes often become plugged or puttied shut over time. When this happens, moist air becomes trapped and condensation appears. To fix the problem, unplug the holes.
Condensation on the storm window is a sign that your prime window is leaking the warm moist air in your house to the storm window. You should weatherstrip your windows if this occurs all winter long. During the initial drying out of the house, expect this, it's normal. Clogged weep holes will not cause condensation, they will prevent the condensate from draining out, along with the rain and any other moisture. Your sills will rot, so it's good to check these weep holes at least once a year.
Also consider taking off your exterior storm windows because they are really ineffective. If you have double- or triple-pane window, you don't need them. If you have single-pane windows, you will find interior storm window far more effective. Look in the Yellow Pages for window companies that install interior storms.
This is the biggest load of horse hockey I've ever read. Exterior storm windows are an effective insulator on any window, and they reduce the air infiltration significantly. In the northern states, storm windows over double pane windows are the standard, even though window manufacturers will try to make you believe otherwise. Most people that have new wood windows eventually come looking for storm windows to reduce the air infiltration and add insulation. Triple glazing is of questionable value, and many window manufacturers are taking a second look at the value of triple glazing vs. the increased seal failure rate on a triple glazed unit. Dual glazed with a storm window is the best thing going at the moment.
Interior storm windows are less effective than exterior storm windows because of the air infiltration. Inside storms are only useful on casement and awning windows where an exterior storm windows cannot seal the gap between the sash and the frame. On all other types of windows, inside storm windows only serve to seal a poor window/poor storm window situation for a low price.
Sincerely,
Eric Wahlstrom, Sysop
The Home Improvement RoundTable on GEnie
Over 20 years experience in the window industry.
From: arar@dial.cic.net
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 95 15:11:03 PST
Subject: Re: Wood Fencing
Recently a subscriber wrote:
Several of the people in my office were talking about wood fencing the other day and discussing how best to put it up. The discussion came around to how the 4x4 support posts should be anchored in the ground. I said that they should be tamped in. Others in the group said to use concrete. Is there a proper way to anchor the posts? If not, what are the pros and cons of the various methods?
Here are some of the answers:
After actually outliving the fence posts around here...that is, I get to put up another generation of posts.....
Our fences are slatted redwood with redwood 8' 4"x4" posts. Approx. two feet of the posts are stuck in plain ol' earth, gravel, or concrete. They all seem rot out eventually even with the surface of the ground.
Since I really hate to redo projects, I've used someone else's idea from MANY moons ago: Use 6' posts and go down to the metals scrap yard to pick up some 2x2-3x3" angle iron (steel) in 3-4' lengths. This stuff'll be 3/16"-3/8" thick. Whatever you can get fer cheap. File the edges on one end until there are no pokers to get ya. Drill a couple of 3/16"-3/8" holes in the nice end. One in the middle of one face about 2-3" from the nice end (top) and another hole on the other face about 15-16" from the top. By doing this, you are allowing yourself the option of doing some adjustment shimming just in case you some how don't get the angle iron planted right in the cement. <:-O
Be sure to bolt the posts so that the bottom of the posts are above the cement by at least an inch. I just slop Rustoleum all over the angle iron before they are planted. I suppose, if you feel energetic, you could bead blast 'em first. Use about 4,1/2" carriage head bolts with washers unless you really messed up and have to do some serious shimming on 'em to get the posts straight.
In order no to spend more time than needed, I'll space the fence posts apart on 7' centers (or so). This way, you don't care about the shimming process or shrinking wood later on. Makes for a few more cuts on the 2x4" cross boards but then you didn't have to cut the 4x4"s either did ya?
Anyway, these are some things I do to cut down on the Honey-Do time so that there is time for more important things, like fishing!
Happy Fencing,
Bill -- <spikes@hpscit.sc.hp.com>
Amateur Homeowner and Marshmallow Landlord
I've sunk more wooden posts (cedar, locust and 3x4 or 4x4 treated) than I care to remember. I've found tamping to be entirely effective. In more detail: use a post-hole digger (or power auger if you have lots of holes) to dig a 6"x3' hole. (Try very hard to maintain verticality.) Put a couple of handfuls of gravel in the bottom to aid drainage. Drop the post in. (Big end, if cedar or locust.) Then drop in a shovelful or two of dirt. With a 1"x2" stick, tamp the dirt firmly. Another couples of shovels full. Tamp. Etc., All the while, checking and adjusting to make sure the post is vertical. (Sight against a nearby building.)
When you are done, if you have tamped properly, all the dirt should have gone back in the hole, even though the post is also in there. If the tamping is done properly, the post will be just as securely anchored as if you'd used concrete. This way, not only do you avoid messing around with the concrete, you also don't have to dispose of the dirt you dug out. And if you ever have to remove or replace the post, it's no big deal.
If the post is locust, you'd best peel the bark before burying. Otherwise once the buried part of the bark rots, the post will loosen.
Ben Chi <BEC@CNSIBM.ALBANY.EDU>
I've put up 4 fences in the past few years and have always used concrete to anchor the posts. Use ordinary posthole cement (by the bag). You can pour it in the hole dry and just add water per the instructions on the bag. Make sure you waterproof or treat the post first or it will be subject to rot if exposed to water. Form a round cap above ground level around the post so water will run off and not in between the concrete and post. I sunk my posts about 2 feet into the ground. good luck..Bob -- creweser@ix.netcom.com
If the posts are Cedar,Redwood or Treated Pine they should last for 25 years without concrete.Also,the fence should be rigid by connecting the posts crosswise by 2 or 3 2"by 4"s.Then nailing whatever you are using for slats up and down to the 2"x4"s.
P.S I had some Black Walnut posts that are 40 years old in the ground and still solid.
Good Luck with your project. Del Johnson -- DJohn86275@aol.com
I've had personal experience with both concrete and non-concrete: if you just put the posts in with no concrete in a clay base, they will probably shift over time. If the soil is rocky, you might be lucky and not have any earth movement.
Go with the concrete footing if you want a longer- lasting end product.
Kochis@aol.com
I put up a small wood fence this summer......What I used to sink the post was some of those metal spikes that hold a 4x4. I used them cause I was putting the fence around a big tree and there were to many roots to deal with. They don't work all that bad and once you get the fencing up it is pretty strong. Hope this helps you out if you have this problem......Good Luck.....FFJerry@aol.com
End of handyman-hints-digest V1 #39