Three of Pakistan's provinces, Punjab, Sind and Baluchistan, are best toured in the winter, due to the extreme high temperatures in the summer. The Punjab, land of the five rivers, is the most populous and the most fertile of the three. Sind, named after the Indus, has the most colourful culture with lively music and brightly decorated crafts. The largest province, Baluchistan, contrary to its rich past today is a serene, challenging territory with wide expanses of desert forbidding mountains, and a beautiful coastline. The south of Pakistan has sustained settlers for thousands of years. In fact, the second oldest civilisation in the world, dating as far back as 5000 BC, is the Indus Valley Civilisation. The Punjab also played host to Guatma Buddha in his search for enlightenment, and his disciples established in Taxila a centre of learning famous throughout Asia. It was in the Punjab that Alexander the Great finally ended his eastward push in 325 BC and headed homewards via the Baluchistan coastline after sailing through Sind down the Indus River. During the 15th to 17th centuries Islam made its presence felt, with the invasion of Mahmood of Ghazni through Baluchistan, Sind and Southern Punjab, and the consequent mass conversion of the indigenous population. The subsequent Moghal period was one that saw the flourishing of the arts with magnificent courts, palaces, gardens and shrines being constructed. The East India Trading Company was the next in the long line of conquerors, and the British Raj set the foundation upon which was established modern day Pakistan. The legacy of saints and shrines, princes and pavilions is still very much in evidence and makes for culturally rich adventure touring. As a result, the trips in this area are an odyssey into the past and allow one to rediscover, study and appreciate the culture and peoples of a bygone era.
The Indus river, 3200 kilometres in length, is Asia's third longest and starts as a little mountain stream in Tibet. Explorers were enamoured by the river, and hundreds of expeditions were launched to try to find the source. Today, the Indus supports the largest irrigation network in the world, an amazing 65,000 kilometres at last count. The beauty of the Indus lies in its contrasts: from a raging torrent tearing through precipitous gorges in the north, to the lazy, meandering waterway of the Punjabi plains. The perspective of the river one has during this trip is that of a life-giver. On traditional fishing and cargo boats -- whose design was borrowed from Alexander the Great's ships -- float downriver, viewing the rural life of the peasants of Punjab, and keeping track of the innumerable species of birds that stop on their north-south migratory patterns. Additionally, there is the possibility of catching the unique fresh-water blind Indus Dolphin at play, as it `races' one's boat convoy. This four day tour begins at the large Taunsa Barrage, and ends in a small village approximately 50 kilometres downstream. Enroute visit some of the villages that line the banks, and learn from the reed-basket weavers, the fishermen, and the ploughmen, about their life on this magnificent, `Lion' River. On return to Multan, there is a possibility of taking an optional tour to Uuch Sharif, where there are magnificent shrines of Muslim saints.
During the day's excursion visit this former tiny Kingdom, which in the 13th century was made famous by Islamic scholars and saints. There are beautiful tombs of the more popular saints, notably those of Bibi Jawandi and Jalal Surkh Bukhari. The architecture of these tombs reflects a Central Asian influence, and the embellishments extensively make use of the beautiful glazes blue tilework of the area. On return to Multan, transfer to the airport for one's flight to the next adventure.
Faisalabad, known as 'Little Manchester' because of its vast textile industry, is the third largest city of Pakistan. In this city one of the most aesthetically designed hotels in Pakistan, the Faisalabad Serena, has opened its doors. The inspiration of its design has been the rich architecture of the inner city of Faisalabad, exuberant Punjabi colours and decorative arts, and the Islamic heritage of the city and the region. This unique hotel will be the meeting point from where a tour of the hotel will follow with a visit of the surrounding areas to see how local and artistic traditions have been incorporated in the hotel's design. The nest day, visit Chiniot, an attractive little town known for its inlay work and beautiful wood carving . Chiniot is the ancestral home of the great craftsmen of the Moghal period, most of whom were involved in the building of such magnificent marvels as the Taj Mahal, the Golden Temple, and Wazir Khan's Mosque. After a visit of the local bazaars and the 17th century Moghal mosque, return back to Faisalabad.
The legendary Cholistan Desert extends for over 17,000 square kilometres right into the Thar Desert of Rajastan, India. This whole area, once irrigated by the Hakra River and lush green, is now a desolate semi-desert expanse of sand and salt bushes. All along the 550 kilometres of the Hakra's dry river bed over 400 archaeological sites, some dating as far back as the 5000-year old Indus Civilisation, have been discovered but are yet to be excavated. According to archaeologists, the key to the mysteries of the ancient Indus Civilisation lies buried in the sands of Cholistan. Additionally, during the 16th and 17th centuries, the Moguls built several forts in this area, the most striking of which are at Darawer, Maujgarh, Dingarh and Marot. The Camel Safari begins at Multan, from where one will drive to Lal Suhanra Park, situated at the edge of the Cholistan Desert. From here, lumber along on camel back visiting desert villages, lonely nomadic settlements, ancient forts and archaeological sites. By night, witness the camel drivers dance the local 'Jhumar' around a warm campfire. The safari ends at Shahiwala, and from there drive back to Multan.
The Indus Civilisation, dating back to 5000 BC, was the precursor of the great civilisations of South Asia. Its heyday marked over 1000 towns scattered across the Indus delta, some of which had populations of over 40,000 inhabitants! Only ten of these sites have been excavated, and one will visit two of these, Mohenjodaro and Kot Diji, with an option to visit a third Mehrgarh. After arrival in Sukkur, explore Kot Diji as well as other historical sites of the Moghal and Talpur eras. The next day, following a day long excursion to Mohenjodaro, board an overnight train to Quetta. At sunrise, one will enter the Bolan Pass, and the ochre coloured rocks glinting in the early morning sun makes for a breath taking sight. In Quetta itself, visit the traditional bazaar, stuffed with Baluchi goods, and crowded with proud moustache sporting Baluchi tribesmen. After an overnight, proceed for an optional tour to Mehrgarh, or take a flight to connect with one's next adventure.
The recently discovered archaeological site of Mehrgarh has unlocked the secrets of the Indus Valley Civilisation by uncovering sites and graves over a 3000 year time span. Mehrgarh s significant for it establishes the pre-Indus Civilisation period, and shows clear transitions of the inhabitants from nomadic hunter gatherers to settled hunter farmers. This day long trip from Quetta goes through the Bolan Pass to Sibi, and then turns off onto a dirt track to the site. One will return to Quetta for an overnight before departing the next day.
The Islamic culture that flourished along the banks of the Indus River gave tremendous fillip to the arts and crafts. Due to the Islamic restriction of not portraying human or animal figures, the art and architecture was restricted to geometric designs or calligraphy. As a result, the monuments built in the Islamic period have a beauty not well developed in any other art form. On this tour which starts from Multan, one will visit the graceful tombs and mausoleums of Islamic saints, as well as the award winning mosque of Bhoong, which is on the way to Sukkur. In Sukkur itself, there are the Indus valley remains of Kot Diji, and many Moghul and Talpur sights, including the leaning Masum Shah Tower. From Sukkur, drive to Mohenjodaro, the most famous Indus Valley archaeological sight, and then on to the shrine in Sehwan Sharif, where Sind's most famous Sufi saint, Lal Shahbaz Qallander, lies entombed. in the evenings, there is a regular 'dhemmal' devotional dance which brings to life the sufis' mys- terious ways of being close to Allah. One will also visit the boat people of Manchar Lake, Ranikot Fort and Hyderabad, before ending the tour in Karachi, Sind's capital.
At one time Baluchistan used to be a fertile, well inhabited area attracting even hunters from the Stone Age, approximately 50,000 years ago. The pre-Indus Valley Civilisation period, where the indigenous population made the transition from hunter-gatherers to hunter-farmers, is thought to be along the Bolan River with recent archaeological finds dating back as far as 6000 BC. This coupled with Baluchistan's being a natural crossroads for traffic from Persia and Afghanistan, made the main routes ideal for nomads. In fact, the North South route from the central states of Russia through Afghanistan, Baluchistan and Sind to the coasts of India is still in use today. the route that this safari will follow begins in Sukkur, and the first day will take one to the Hot Springs of Pir Ghaib via the site of Mehrgarh, where remains of the Pre-Indus Valley Civilisation are to be found. The next day will go through the torturous winding Bolan Pass to Quetta, the modern day capital of Baluchistan. After a visit of the city, drive to the summer resort of Ziarat, situated near the largest Juniper Forest in the world. Spend the day hiking in the hills of Ziarat, before returning to Quetta.
Contents copyright © 1996, Walji's Adventure Pakistan. All rights
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Revised: 22 March, 1996