Chitral

Chitral forms Pakistan's northwestern border with Afghanistan, and is home to the precipitous mountains of the Hindkush. This range is different from the Himalayas and Karakorams, and since there are no 8000 meter peaks here, it is not as well known. However, Tirich Mir at 7708m and its accompanying peaks, Noshaq (7492m), Istoro Nal (7403m) and Saraghrar (7338m) command respect. Alexander the Great's troops had to battle through the snows on their passage from Afghanistan to Pakistan, and called the Hindu Kush 'Parapamisus' meaning mountains over which no eagle can fly. Additionally, Tartar hordes passed through here, notably Gengis Khan and Tamerlane, and a route of the Silk Road wound through the Baroghil Pass in Upper Chitral. Nonetheless, Chitralis have been mostly left alone in their valley for centuries, and their origins remain shrouded in mystery. Present day Chitralis are mostly Muslims, but in the south of Chitral there are three Valleys inhabited by the Kafir Kalash, an anamistic tribe that has evaded being converted to Islam. Chitral has been traditionally and, except for a brief spell uninterruptedly, ruled by the Mehtars who claim as ancestors the Tartar ruling family of Tamerlane. However, in the late 19th century the British established a garrison in Chitral, as at that time it was thought that there existed easy passage from Russia to British India. When that proved unfounded, the British lost interest in Chitral, and the Mehtars were left to govern as they wished until the late 1960's. Finally in 1974, Chitral was annexed by Pakistan, and the Mehtars' rule came to a rather ignominious end. The beauty of Chitral lies as much in its rustic, mountainous terrain, as in its warmhearted and friendly inhabitants.

The Land of the Infidels

Kafir Kalash Trek

Level B

The setting of Rudyard Kipling's The Man Who Would Be King, is purported to be in the Kafir Kalash Valleys. In the late 19th century the area used to be known as Kafiristan -- Land of the Infidels -- and extended to several valleys in present day Afghanistan. However, the inhabitants of the Afghan Kafir valleys were forcibly converted to Islam, leaving only the tribes of the three valleys of Rambur Bomboret and Berir to carry on their centuries-old animistic culture. After driving from Chitral to the least frequented of the valleys, Rambur, trek over two passes in as many days to Bomboret. This middle valley is the most commercialised, so trek out of the 'commercial' area to Shawal, where the shepherds have their summer pastures. The next day return to Bomboret, to prepare for the following day's gruelling crossing over the ridge separating Bomboret from Berir. Spend some time exploring Berir, before making the return drive to Chitral.

Itinerary

Tirich Mir

The Mountains Over Which No Eagle Can Fly Level B

The Tirich Valley is populated with several small villages, separated by groves of apricot trees. The valley is very fertile, and the resulting verdant floor is in breathtaking contrast to the orange and yellow apricots, especially in late summer. After driving to Uthul, trek across Zani Pass (3886m) to Shagram village. At the crest of Zani pass, there are excellent views of the Hindukush and Hindu Raj ranges, and the colour contrasts of the two are readily discernible. Trekking through the villages of Atak and Bandak, one will arrive at Shogor, at the foot of the Tirich Glacier. From here trek on to the Lower Tirich Glacier to the furthermost point of the trek. The day's excursion will allow for fantastic views of Tirich Mir (7708m) and Istoro Nal (7403m) as well as the heavily crevassed Upper Tirich Glacier. Return in two days on the same route to Shagram, from where one will drive back to Chitral.

Itinerary


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Revised: 22 March, 1996