For the adventure-loving tourist, there are few places in the world that can compare to the valleys of Gilgit and Hunza. Gilgit is an ancient trading post, whose bustling bazaar has been a caravanserai for many of the traders of the silk road.
With the opening of the Karakoram Highway leading to China, the population of Gilgit has increased manifold; however, its dusty, old-world ambience remains largely unaffected by the large numbers of fortune seekers, traders, ambassadors, and tourists that seasonally swell the town. Dominated by the 6134m Domani Peak, the city is encircled by featureless, brown and black coloured `hills' ranging up to 4500m high. The local population has made an effort to turn this dusty bowl of a city into an oasis, and one will see patches of green, terraced fields, interspersed with orchards of apricot, cherry and apple.
While Gilgit is noted for its bazaar and its potpourri of peoples, Hunza is known for its breath-taking mountain vistas. Snow-capped Rakaposhi (7788m), and Ultar (7388m) dominate the valley, and the village, and the villages of Karimabad and Gulmit are the prettiest in this former kingdom. Nestled close to China and the Wakhan Corridor of Afghanistan, the entire valley is of great strategic importance. Hunzakurts have historically taken advantage of their strategical placement, and used to waylay without discrimination all manners of caravans plying on the trade routes to and from China. In fact, their legendary toughness has contributed to the myth that the Hunzakurts routinely live to be 120 years old! However, their strength and ruggedness is belied by their gentle, warm and hospitable character. It is the serene environment, coupled with the joie de vivre of the Hunzakurts that makes one's trip to Hunza the memory of lifetime.
This trek takes you to fascinating Upper Hunza, and one has the opportunity of traversing two glaciers, and hiking alongside part of Batura Glacier, which at approximately 65 kilometres in length, is the second longest glacier outside the polar regions. Additionally, at the high point of this trek at Patundas meadow (4575m), one has clear views of a plethora of peaks: the Passu Group (7284 to 7500m), the Batura Group (7500 to 7784m), Shishpar (7619m), Disteghil Sar (7885m), Momhil Sar (7342m) and Rakaposhi (7788m), amongst others. From the starting point of Gilgit, drive on the Karakoram Highway to Ghulkin. The next three days' trekking will bring one to Patundas. The days, though short due to sharp altitude gains, will allow one to traverse Ghulkin and Passu Glaciers, and pass by Borit Lake. At Patundas spend a free day feasting one's eyes on the mountain panorama, before taking the next two days descending to Passu, and returning to Gilgit.
Across the Hunza River from Karimabad, lies the beautiful, unspoiled Nagar Valley. Traditionally the bitterest of foes, Hunzakurts and Nagarites have made peace in a manner typical of royalty, by marrying the princess of one to the king of the other. The nadir of this adventure in Nagar Valley is attaining the summit of Rashpari Peak, from where one has commanding views of Nagar and Karimabad. At the same time, one can be closer to the grandeur of Rakaposhi (7788m) and Diran (7258m), which loom large on the horizon. Our trek commences from the ex-King of Nagar's `palace' across the Barpu Glacier to Hamdar, and in two days one makes the journey to a glacier lake at the base of Rashpari Peak. The peak is not technically difficult, but requires a lot of stamina as altitude gains are severe. After submitting Rashpari Peak, descend to Paipari at the edge of Barpu Glacier, and then traverse the Barpu to return to Shishkin and Nagar. For this trek it is mandatory to have emergency evacuation insurance.
The yak, the mountain dwellers' beast of burden, is a fierce- looking, shaggy creature, similar to a cow, and -- fortunately -- as passive as one. Traditionally and principally reared in Pakistan's north as a source of milk, yaks are also used to carry loads from one village to another, and to give rides to young children, and the not-so-young, on long-distance journeys. This new, thrilling adventure will take one on yak back on the traditional shepherds' route to high pasture grounds. Beginning at the foot of Batura Glacier, whose nearly 65 kilometre length makes it the second longest glacier in the world outside the polar regions, one will traverse the glacier near Malungin, and ride to Yashipirt. From here there are superb views of the Batura Peaks, ranging from 6830m to 7785m, the Kampire Dior Group, ranging from 6931m to 7143m, Shispare (7619m), and Passau Peak (7284m). From Yashipim, retrace one's route back to Passu village, perched comfortably atop one's sure-footed, shaggy friend.
The Ishkoman valley divides the Hindu Raj, Hindu Kush and Karakorams and consequently, trekking in this area allows one to see three types of geologically distinct mountain ranges. The trek begins with a short jeep ride to the beautiful, alpine valley of Naltar. This valley has an air force ski training centre which is surrounded by flower bedecked alpine pastures, and thick pine trees. After exploring the village, trek to Naltar Lake, whose crystal clear waters mirror the surrounding peaks. After spending a free day by the Lake, trek to Shani, at the base of Naltar pass, the gateway to Ishkoman. Enroute to Shani, one will pass many Gujer settlements, and meet herdsmen tending their goats and yaks. One will then cross over Naltar Pass (4200m) to Trang. From the top of the pass, there are beautiful views of the three mountain ranges, and countless peaks in the 6000 to 7000m range. The gradual descent from Trang to Chatorkhand in Ishkoman leads one to the traditional village of a famous religious figure (Pir), and one might be able to converse with the locals about the Pir and his influence. From Chatorkhand, jeep back to Gilgit.
This trip follows the route of Marco Polo, and is undertaken in a four-wheel drive vehicle. On this safari, one will drive through the beautiful valleys of Puniyal, Ghizar Mastuj, Chitral, Kafir Kalash, Dir and Swat. Enroute, cross the Shandur (3720m), and Lowari Passes (3200m). This journey offers astonishing contrasts: from stark, shale cliffs to lush green crop fields; from thunderous rivers to serene lakes. Even the dwellings, language and customs change from one valley to the next. The safari starts in Gilgit, and after spending a night in Gupis, arrives at Phander Lake, which is one of the most scenic places in this area. One day will be spent here at leisure to fish for trout and visit the villages. One will then continue over Shandur Pass with its two crystal-clear lakes and world's highest polo field, to Mastuj, an important village during the 19th century siege of Chitral. From Mastuj, drive to Chitral, from where panoramic views of the Hindu Kush range, and it's highest peak, Tirich Mir (7708m) are to be found. Driving on to Swat, one will pass 'the valleys of the infidels' -- the Kafir Kalash -- and cross over Lowari Pass, before ending in this emerald valley, popularly known as `the Switzerland of the East'.
At approximately 3700m, the polo field on Shandur Pass is perhaps the world's highest. Here the spirited game of mountain polo -- which some say originated in the neighbouring mountain fiefdoms -- is played at it's very best, as the two top teams from Gilgit and Chitral vie for the honour of being recognised as the champion of the northern areas. Shandur Polo is a rough game that lures in the spectators, and is played with no holds barred. Of late, teams from Afghanistan and Kashgar (China), have also been invited to compete. The resulting melange of cultures allows one the rare opportunity of experiencing the vitality of these hardy mountain folk, in a setting largely unchanged over centuries. During the week-long festivities, there are folk dances, trout fishing competitions, singing contests, but above all, there is polo! For the duration of the games, a tented city is established to cater for the players, participants and on- lookers, and set amidst the backdrop of the Hindu Kush mountain range, one has the feeling of being transposed into the world of Rudyard Kipling's Man Who Would Be King. Being a part of this exciting, highly-charged atmosphere is unforgettable, an experience of a lifetime.
Contents copyright © 1996, Walji's Adventure Pakistan. All rights
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Revised: 22 March, 1996