How to See the World on $25 a Day or LessARTOFTRAVEL.COM

 

Chapter 1

People and Diplomacy


The great reward of backpacking independently on a low budget is the people you meet. Because all roads have not been smoothed before you, because your feathers are likely to be ruffled when things don't turn out exactly as expected, and because you are likely to be left in somewhat of a lurch now and then, you are going to have far greater opportunity to mix with local people, as well as other backpackers from all over the world, than any tour group or first-class traveler.

Those travelers who fork over the big bucks for high-class or guided travel get absolute peace-of-mind in return. They are guaranteed no worries, no hassles, an experience as close as possible to being home, without being home. They get an hour and fifteen minutes for the guaranteed-to-be-open museum, and then a two-hour sightseeing ride that catches all the picture-postcard highlights. Then a break for lunch at a "recommended" restaurant, where the food is reasonable and ordering is easy. And as the next bus pulls in they reboard theirs to start the routine again, ending with a no-hassle check-in at a pretty good hotel, populated with plenty of other tourists, pretty much like themselves.

I don't want to knock that kind of travel, because all travel is good for the human spirit. But budget backpacker travel is unparalleled for meeting people and experiencing worlds on their own intimate terms. There are many travelers who have enough money to go pampered-class but choose to strap on a backpack and see the world via the seat-of-their-pants, because they know it's the best way to experience cultures and interact with local people.

The best travel is not about seeing a list of monuments, museums, and landscapes. The best travel is about people, and if you travel well it is people that you are going to remember most. People that are strange, unique, foreign, similar, friendly, nice, hospitable, loving, kind, rude, outrageous, and normal. These will be the memories and experiences that stay with you forever, that no postcard can ever reproduce.

Cool Red Army dudes. Photo: Can you say "Vodka?"



Traveling Alone

Many people are nervous about traveling alone. They have the idea that overseas travel is just too daunting to be tackled by themselves. For many of us, however, if we don't travel alone, we aren't going to travel. It's difficult for most people to find a travel partner who is not only compatible, but also has the same time, money, and goals. Fortunately, most travelers will find themselves constantly meeting other solo travelers, many of whom will also be looking for companionship, to exchange information, or to have a few beers. By no means is traveling alone the same as traveling lonely.

Of course, the solo traveler will likely be alone some or much of the time. This can be a good thing, however, since a companion might insulate you too much from the local culture or other travelers, and the whole point of travel (I think) is meeting strange new people.

Furthermore, there is no better or faster way to learn about yourself than by traveling by yourself. Goethe said he traveled not for pleasure, but rather to achieve his full development as a man by the time he was forty. And one venerable Swedish doctor, waxing almost mystical, said he didn't feel he was really traveling unless he was doing so alone.


Traveling With Someone

Traveling with someone demands you know yourself and your partner. It is often said there would be less divorce if couples traveled together for a few months before getting married. As with marriage, if you only think of your travel partner in terms of honeymoon rather than alliance, you are in for a sad shock.

Traveling with someone is an intense experience. Rarely in normal life do people spend so much time together, and make so many decisions, often based on little information. Picking restaurants, taking buses, choosing museums, finding accommodation--all can cause great stress among couples. As a friend wrote to me, "Finding out you are hopelessly, completely, absolutely incompatible in a tent at 8000 feet and it's thirty-two degrees outside is not a good situation."

Just because someone is a good friend does not mean he would automatically be a good travel partner. Traveling with someone with whom goals, money, and even personal habits have not been fully discussed can be a relationship-destroyer and trip-ruiner. Get everything in the open before you commit yourself to a backpacking trip to hell.

The three basic categories of travel friction are:

  1. One has an hourly itinerary, the other doesn't own a watch.
  2. One prefers first-class, the other prefers the back of the bus.
  3. One's makeup case is heavier than the other's backpack.

Do not underestimate profound differences such as these.

If you and your travel partner are not quite perfectly meshing, try taking turns being the chief decision-maker. The first day one chooses the restaurants and museums; the next day the other. (Me Chief today, you Chief tomorrow.) Also give each other time to explore alone, perhaps meeting for dinner, or next week in Paris.

But always have a standard plan for getting in touch if the original rendezvous fails, such as three or twenty-four later at the same place.

You both must understand a good travel relationship requires compromise on both sides to achieve a greater whole. Whining and nagging is usually the result of one partner feeling like he or she is not being treated fairly. Listening is the most important--yet most abused--skill between people.


How to Meet People

Simply by being an independent backpacker traveler you will meet many people from all walks of life. As a group passenger/tourist you would be lucky to exchange more than a few pleasantries with other group passenger/tourists.

Of course the cardinal rule is you must reach out. This can be as simple as smiling, saying "Hello!" and taking an interest. Some people will respond, and some won't, but if they don't you shouldn't take it personally. We all have our humbling moments.

Before you hit the road contact your relatives and friends to get addresses where you are traveling. These might be of business people, exchange students, or relatives in "the old country." Then write an honest letter and hope for an invitation for a few days. They would probably get a contact high from you having so much fun.

One backpacker went to Europe in 1992 with $4000 and half-a-dozen addresses. He parlayed that into ten months, and paid for only two nights accommodation. He was invited to a number of parties, and had one of the best experiences of any backpacker I know. Of course he is a gifted traveler and communicator, but you probably have some talent, also.

Photo: Author, in far court, gives free lesson to local Slovak #1. Author, in far court, gives local Slovak #1 a free lesson.

A good way to meet people while traveling is to do something. If you play an instrument well, bring it and make street music. (Personally I think the market is oversaturated with 60's and 70's American radio hits--but don't let that stop you.) If your art is making discordant static noises, bring your static noise makers, ask around, and put on some performances.

If you have a hobby, go to a workshop or convention involving it and you. Some travelers sell jewelry or other items by laying them on a towel in market areas, or even on a park bench. You may make a few sales, talk to some people, and be invited to something. From there you will meet other people, be invited somewhere else, etc.

This guy can tap. If you allow yourself the time and flexibility to get outside the broad center of the travel industry--and put forth some effort--you may be rewarded with extraordinary travel.



Photo: I'll bet he gets the babes, too.



Tourists, Travelers, and Local Culture

Travel theorist Stanley Plogg placed the personalities of tourists and travelers along a broad scale. On one end are people who want their travel experience to be as "like home" as possible. They want to take it easy and not be faced with stressful situations and decision-making. They want everything to "go right." These are frequently (but not always) the people found at posh resorts, or on group tours.

On the other end are those travelers who enjoy new situations, dig deeply into local culture, and travel as if they were a native of the land. They find lodging where the locals sleep, eat where the locals dine, and ride their transportation. They may hitch rides to get from place to place, not only as a means of saving money, but as a way to meet local people. Most of these travelers are backpackers.

These most-adventurous travelers prefer travel destinations which are not yet developed for the mass tourist trade. They often lament about an area becoming developed and losing its charm. They then push out to new, virgin areas, and unintentionally begin laying the groundwork for future tourist expansion. (Of course, most backpackers fall somewhere in the middle of the scale.)

As an area develops for the tourist trade relations between locals and travelers become more formalized. Locals become accustomed to foreigners, now seeing them as either a source of income, or as a nuisance. No longer are they interesting new friends from far away.

Travelers and the travel industry may both benefit and harm a local economy and culture. Locals may gain from jobs, taxes, and contact with other cultures. But severe disruptions also occur. Crime may increase as crooks congregate to prey on rich visitors. The tourist area may have a dramatic rise in population as villagers from other parts of the country flock there to get jobs, which may or may not be available. Sanitation and medical facilities may become overwhelmed, and housing may become a short commodity, with land prices becoming unaffordable for the local population. One example: few native Hawaiians now own any part of Hawaii.

When tourist culture meets local culture, a clash is inevitable. Locals may decide their own products and way of life are no longer desirable. In the 1960's there was a popular campaign in Europe to donate used clothing to "those poor, naked Africans." It had such appeal many kind-hearted souls donated new clothes. Unfortunately, the organizers failed to understand Africans had been beautifully dressing themselves, as necessary, for thousands of years.

Consequently, as Western clothing poured into Africa and came to market (which is the natural outcome of such a program), prices were driven far below their normal cost. Africans eagerly snatched up the bargain Western styles they had seen or heard about. Many local clothing makers--pillars of the African economy--were driven out of business as their hand-made products were now perceived as inferior. Africans became more reliant on imports, further weakening their economy, further increasing unemployment.

That said, tourism as an instigator of culture clash is a distant second to the ultrapowerful electrons of television. Furthermore, both are only going to increase as the Earth truly becomes a global village over the next century. And in the case of television, with satellites, HDTV, fiber optics, and computerization--exponentially increase until world culture eventually becomes one gigantic, insipid bowl of Campbell's soup.

So get out while the traveling is still good!

Traveler
Adjusts to the local culture, accepts it for what it is.
 
Tourist
makes the local culture meet his or her needs.



The Art of Gift-Giving

Gift-giving is an often overlooked aspect of traveling. Backpackers in the developing world, and hitchhikers everywhere, are likely to meet a number of local people who show great kindness by giving you a lift, buying you coffee or lunch, or even putting you up for the night. People are very appreciative if you can give a little something in return.

When I'm hitchhiking I like to offer to buy coffee or drinks. Even though I'm a low-budget traveler I have money, and I can think of no better way to spend it than on someone doing me a good turn. The money doesn't matter; the gesture does. But the gift I usually give is a postcard of my hometown or state. On my last tour of Europe I gave away about fifty postcards featuring various Texas themes. They were a big hit. People really like little mementos they can show to their children or friends as they say, "Guess who I met today?"

Other gift ideas are key chains, bookmarks, imprinted pens, photographs, and Kennedy half-dollar coins. Always available gifts include smiles, fun, laughter, jokes, sharing, recognition, and appreciation.

In some cultures gift-giving is serious business. Japanese fully expect small but good gifts from invited guests, and they will probably give you one as well. Many indigenous peoples expect to receive something from visitors they have been kind to. Of course, most of the modern world no longer expects gifts from travelers. (The Japanese may stomp around after you leave, but there won't be any hari kari.) Indigenous peoples, however, may be offended if an honored guest does not leave a small token of appreciation. Gift-giving is as natural for them as the moon rising.

For example, when taking leave of your new Tarahumara Indian friends who have invited you into their hut for tortillas and a gourdful of homemade corn beer (which will later ignite an epic intestinal war, but that's another story), it would be greatly appreciated if you could reach into your pocket and pull out a small item like a butane lighter, a pen, or a postcard. You can then tell your host how much you have appreciated his hospitality, and that while you don't have much, you would like to leave a little something. When he later talks about your visit with friends he can pull out the lighter or pen to show. Neighbors may come over to see the fantastic scene on a postcard.


Saving Face

In many cultures the concept of honor, or saving face, is carried to an extreme far beyond what we are accustomed in the western world. The most common example affecting the traveler is when the traveler asks someone on the street if this is the way to "Timbuktu," and the person answers "yes," even though he has never heard of "Timbuktu" and has no idea where it is.

Since not knowing the answer would cause him to lose face, he perhaps sends the traveler in the wrong direction. In some instances when a member of such a society "loses face," the society will shun or lower the status of that person. It is not primarily that their egos are so fragile they cannot say they don't know, or back down from something, but that their culture dictates they do not.

As a practical matter the traveler can ask, "How do I get to Timbuktu?" as opposed to, "Is this the way to Timbuktu?" Then he or she can confirm the directions by asking someone else along the way.

To resolve a disagreement, the traveler should provide a step for the local to move back to. This might be done with a compliment, or by giving-in on another point. The traveler should also strive to be gentle with local people, as our sometimes gruff or rude western manners--which we may interpret as honesty--can be a harsh affront to face in other cultures.

While face is rarely a problem for the traveler, a Chinese proverb illustrates its importance: "As a tree lives for its bark, a human being lives for his face."


Work

Some travelers earn their lodging at certain hostels and backpacker hotels by volunteering a couple of hours of cleaning, painting, fixing, cooking, serving, etc. per day. This is also a great way to meet people. If you are under twenty-seven you also may be able to get a student work visa for six months or a year in some developed countries.

Regardless of "the law" there is work for the persistent traveler in high-turnover jobs in bars and restaurants, teaching English, and in fields picking. Ask everyone you meet for leads. Make sure the hostel managers know you are looking for work. Employers sometimes call them when they need casual labor.

I've landed two short-term jobs this way: one picking apples, the other packing boxes in a video factory. Also check noticeboards at hostels and universities. Any kind of work gets you settled into a place, and makes you something of a temporary citizen.

Work Your Way Around the World by Susan Griffith is the bible for finding work overseas. It contains over 400 pages of concrete information, as well as anecdotes by travelers. The Council on International Educational Exchange's Work, Study, and Travel Abroad: The Whole World Handbook is another good tool for finding work, both paid and volunteer. CIEE also publishes Volunteer! The Comprehensive Guide to Voluntary Service in the U.S. and Abroad. See the bibliography for details.

Do not make the mistake of dismissing the value of volunteer work in other countries. I've met quite a few backpackers whose volunteer work--such as building huts in Fiji, working on small farms in New Zealand, and directing weaving projects with Mayans in Central America--was the highlight of their tours. They go on and on about the friendships they made, and how they really got to see and understand the culture from an intimate perspective.

Food and lodging is usually provided, and the work is not too difficult. Volunteer work can be found for as little as two weeks to two years.

Work and Study Strategies


Teaching English as a Foreign Language

The TEFL (pronounced "teffle") is a certificate stating you have been trained to teach English. It originated in Britain after WW2. TESOL--Teaching English to Speakers of Other Languages, is a newer U.S. professional organization. Certification from either is not absolutely necessary, but more necessary if you don't have a degree, or want to teach in Western Europe where high standards are expected.

Call the language department at your local university to find who is giving the course. Courses are often advertised in college newspapers. Some programs are long and expensive, others are only a few evening sessions and relatively cheap. Since most English teaching is just conversation or following a workbook as provided by the school, I recommend taking the cheapest and shortest program, if not skipping it altogether.

Of course you should have the desire and ability to teach English well as your clients will be paying good money to learn from you, and in some cases they will be investing their hopes and dreams for a better life in learning English. On the other hand much English teaching in Japan is primarily entertainment for the after-work public.

Demand and pay for English teachers is relatively great in Japan, South Korea, and Taiwan. In many cases decent clothing, a professional manner, enthusiasm, and a sharp briefcase are more important than a certificate. This is according to numerous conversations with "tefflers," though finding work is never guaranteed anywhere. See the bibliography for a book with 100,000 words on the subject.


Europeans and Americans

The American in Europe immediately senses Europeans are not quite like the folks back home. At their best they are among the finest peoples in the world, of course. But at their worst Europeans may seem cold, aloof, contemptuous, and overly-refined. Some Americans who encounter this develop a chip on their shoulders about America and Americans, while others try to Europeanize themselves with a sophisticated front. Neither is pleasant to see or be around.

Americans should have faith in themselves and their culture, and, to a point, be their natural selves. Stuart Miller's Understanding Europeans is an interesting discourse on the differences between European and American personalities and cultures. This American Tocqueville destroys many of the illusions Americans and Europeans have of each other. Miller maintains Europeans are the way they are due to their many centuries of rigid class structure, as well as the incredibly violent and hate-filled history of Europe.

He holds that Americans are a most unusual people, and are the way we are due to the original Puritan ethic, which held that all people were simply friends before God. See the bibliography for details.

Photo: Germans love to laugh (and they're good at it.) Two Germans



Backpacker Subculture

Since the 1960's advent of cheap air travel budget travelers have mushroomed in number. Almost anywhere you go you are likely to meet brave travelers from all over the world who are more like yourself, more interesting to you, than most of your fellow countrymen back home.

Certain places around the world have become a haven for backpackers. This is where they come to meet, to talk, to drink, to romance other travelers, and to hide. Mostly they are there because the beer and accommodation is cheap, and the cultural and physical landscapes retain interesting flavors.

As you travel you will undoubtedly come across some of these places, stay there for awhile, and have a really good time with new friends. To you, the place will always be special, and the people you met there will stay in your heart for a long time. Bon voyage, traveler!


Natural Travelers

On my fourth backpacking tour I met a twenty-eight-year-old American backpacker from Wisconsin on his first trip into Mexico and Central America. In an evening of beer and revelry in the Coyocan section of Mexico City I learned something very important about travel.

This long-haired and hippyish backpacker had an extraordinary sense of playfulness and fun, evident in his voice, manner, and movement. He was completely happy to be traveling. He had a profound sense of connectedness with his fellows on this small planet, and they immediately sensed it. He was not shy about talking the weather with shopkeepers, telling funny stories to kids, commenting to attractive women. Travel for him was like a dance; his partners were the many happy, friendly people of the world, and they were attracted to him by his good spirit. He was probably the most natural traveler I've met.

A few days after this encounter it hit me that people are only going to get out of travel what they put into it. If you perceive the world as a friendly, happy, hopeful place, and act accordingly, you are likely to have more interesting experiences than someone who carefully measures his distance from the world, and considers minding his own business a meaningful art.


Romantic Relationships

I recommend not getting serious with men or women from developing countries, as cultural and power differences are usually too great. You are likely to be unrealistically seen as manna from heaven. Individuals from the developed world, however, are fair and plentiful game.

It is a simple fact that romance is a conscious or unconscious lure for many travelers. What could be more fun than meeting a new friend in an exciting place with similar interests in travel and exploration?

Of course great care must be taken in this day of AIDS and other diseases. People are not always who they seem, and some visual and verbal clues which assist you in determining the character of your fellow countryperson may be absent with a foreigner. On the other hand Emily Dickinson assessed the world best, "Oh the Earth was made for lovers."

Where to Find Romance


Travelers' Tips

Travel is not about getting from point A to point B. At best that's tourism--at worst transportation--across a more or less sterile landscape. Real travel is about soaking up the local flavor, getting a sense of other people's lives, and their history.

Never overlook the local people. They are always proud of their town, their county, their country, and their heritage. And every little town has a little something somewhere that's interesting, that you can only find through the local people. If you recognize them by being friendly and saying,"Hello, I'm not from around here," you'll be surprised what you get back in return. They'll often bend over backward to help you, simply because you're not a typical Joe Blow tourist blowing through town. Shaun H., Bandera, Texas


Literary Quotes

One of the many paths to enlightenment is the discovery of ourselves, and this can be achieved whenever one truly knows others who are different. Edward T. Hall, USA, from The Dance of Life

*

Travelling is almost like talking with men of other centuries. Rene Descartes, France


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How to See the World on $25 a Day or Less is copyright © John Gregory 1995, 1996, 1997. Except for personal use (like showing to a friend), it may not be reproduced, retransmitted, archived, or altered without author permission (
webmaster@artoftravel.com) Permission to link and review is freely granted. All product names and trademarks are property of their owners. Updated March 09, 1997. Thank you.

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