Do not let paranoia about crime invade your mind and spoil your travels. The vast majority of visitors to European and other countries do not encounter pickpockets or thieves regardless of where or how they carry their valuables. In the developing country Morocco, which is often considered a bad place for rip-offs, only about one in twenty-five visitors is a victim of thievery, according to a survey in one British magazine. In your travels you are far more likely to have a completely opposite experience in which the honesty and kindness of most people shines brilliantly.
Nevertheless, the trouble and expense of replacing passports, tickets, travelers checks, and gear can wreak havoc on your tour. Furthermore, if you make it easy there are a few thieves everywhere who will oblige themselves to your property. With common sense and an awareness of how common thieves operate, you can reduce your risk to the minimum.
State Department Hotline for Travelers
The United States State Department operates a twenty-four-hour hotline with safety and political information for every country. Thousands of documents are available. Travelers from other countries also use this service.
State Department Overseas Citizens' Emergency Center Washington, D.C.
voice phone: 202-647-5225
fax-back service: 202-647-3000
computer modem: 202-647-9225
world wide web: http://travel.state.gov/
The voice number connects you to a taped voice-mail system which allows you to listen to hundreds of topics by punching in selections on your phone. The fax-back service sends back faxes after you punch in selections via phone. The modem number (dialed by your computer) accesses the Consular Affairs Bulletin Board. The web service, of course, is the most convenient.
State Department reports include:
- Current travel advisories
- U.S. Passport information
- Types of assistance offered by the Citizens' Consular Service and the Citizens' Emergency Center
- The Overseas Security Advisory Council (OSAC) Electronic Bulletin Board
State Department travel advisories are also available from America Online, CompuServe, and other Internet services. Their information is not as extensive, but adequate.
While some backpackers say the hotline exaggerates problems, I consider it the best and only source of information about current dangers around the world. It is compiled by State Department staff in every country, and partially depends on reports from travelers.
The State Department report on Guatemala cites so many instances of possible trouble that many travelers would be scared-off. In reality there are thousands of travelers in Guatemala at any one time, the vast majority of whom have a fantastic experience. Read the reports for what they are, take them into careful consideration, but also imagine how a travel advisory for any American city might appear.
On the other hand at this writing the report for Somalia says, "The State Department strongly advises U.S. citizens to avoid travel in Somalia as it is totally unsafe." I would totally abide by that.
Another point to keep in mind is that just because other travelers say a certain place is perfectly safe, that doesn't make it true. It only means they didn't encounter problems. I listened to an experienced backpacker swear up and down how the dangers of a particular area were highly exaggerated or non-existent, when the day before I had spoken to three Germans who had been robbed at gunpoint there.
Local authorities and tourist offices cannot always be relied upon, either, as they have a vested interest in minimizing whatever problems there are.
If the State Department report says "There have been numerous reports of robberies on the volcanoes around Lake Atitlán," that doesn't mean it's unsafe to go to Guatemala, or even Lake Atitlán, but that you should be wary around those volcanoes. If I didn't have that information I probably would have walked those trails on my own. Knowing that information it was easy to go with a group and guide to reduce risk.
No place, of course, is perfectly safe, but some are more imperfect than others. With good information you can travel smarter by knowing what to beware: in Belize City, snatch and run thieves; in Managua, pickpockets and pack slashers on public buses; in Thailand, drugged gifts of food or drink which render you unconscious; in Lahore, Pakistan, sleazy hotels where backpacks regularly disappear; in the hills around Lake Atitlán, Guatemala, armed robbery and rape.
Photo: Author below Atitlán
As you wait in line at the crowded Amsterdam tourist office continuously blaring over the loudspeaker is the following warning in six languages: "Your attention please. Watch your wallets, there are pickpockets about!"
That tourist office is tough pickings for any would-be pickpocket, since everyone is continuously fidgeting with their pockets or purses, and throwing about a great many suspicious looks.
Unfortunately, however, I have come across a number of pickpockets in my travels. While standing in a train ticket line I saw a hand stealthily slip into a purse from behind. In another line I saw a pickpocket slither behind a man and try to snatch the wallet in his back pocket. I have chased hands out of my pockets four times--twice while getting off crowded buses (a very vulnerable time); while temporarily blinded as I descended into a dark, sleazy club from a bright street; and in a market. A friend had her fanny pack unzipped and her wallet removed while she was pressed against a wall of people in a crowded market. Another backpacker had been pickpocketed three times over two months, also in markets. "They're good," he said.
The professional pickpocket in the developed world has a more-or-less standard operating procedure. He chooses a likely target--someone who obviously has money within easy reach. That includes back pockets and purses. If the thief cannot get the money cleanly, he or a partner will create a distraction by bumping the target, violently colliding with the target, or spilling something on the target. The wallet is snatched and within one or two seconds it is discreetly handed to a partner who quickly walks away. The money and valuables are removed and the rest dumped within a few more seconds.
Even if you see or feel what is happening, you have no evidence. The scoundrel says someone shoved him into you, you fell into him, or you were trying to rob him.
These pickpockets look for easy marks. As long as you don't dangle your money in a purse, or dangle it in a back pocket, or otherwise dangle it on a thread ten feet behind you, they will choose an easier target, of which there are many.
In the developing world you are a juicy target because pickpockets know you have ten, a hundred, or a thousand times more money than the average local. You are the target. There is no getting around that. But if you keep most of your money in a hidden money belt against your skin, you'll be safe from pickpockets.
"Money belt" does not mean the fanny or waist pack many tourists wear outside their clothes. If you wear one of these in some areas you will immediately see "$" signs light up in some eyes. And I'm willing to bet when you see a waist pack on a tourist your first thought will be something like "Big, fat bag of money!" Imagine your thoughts if you were a thieving scoundrel, a hungry, jobless person, or a pack of street urchins with no one to look after them.
You can probably use a waist pack in Europe without incident. Millions of tourists enjoy their convenience, and they are safer than pockets and purses. But they are not nearly as safe as hidden money belts. Criminals know waist packs are "where the money is," and no waist pack is a match for their deft hands and incredibly sharp razors.
Thus the primary achievement of hidden money belts is the "out of sight, out of mind" principle. It's almost a secondary benefit that they are impossible for a thief to snatch without your knowledge.
Photo: Beware the notorious "White Blouse" street gang.
- Waist Type
- The most popular. Typically about ten inches long and four inches wide with a strap which goes around your waist. It has a zipper with one or two compartments, weighs about two ounces, and costs about $10. It can be worn either tightly against the stomach, or dropped loosely into the pants.
- Pocket Type
- About half the size of the waist type. It hangs inside your pants from your belt or belt loop. It has one or two zippered compartments, and is easy to whip out when needed. This is what I use most of the time.
Photo: My usual system. I darkened the loop with a magic marker to hide it better.
- Neck or Shoulder Type
- Hangs under your clothes from around your neck or shoulder. May take awhile to whip out when needed, depending on your clothing. The strap could be grabbed, cut, and pulled away. The neck-type is the least safe of any hidden money belt, but still much safer than wallets and fanny packs.
- Leg Type
- Straps around your leg just above the ankle. These are used by some travelers in bandit areas (this doesn't apply to 99.99% of us) since it remains hidden if a bandit forces you to drop your pants to display your waist money belt. Another trick is to place your valuables inside an Ace bandage wrapped around your leg.
- Belt Type
- A real hold-up-your-pants belt with a zippered compartment on the inside. It has about twenty-four inches of zippered area, about one inch wide. It comfortably stores a dozen currency notes. I use this as extra insurance. A fabric belt for men is available from Campmoor and some travel/outdoor stores for $20. A nice leather belt which can be trimmed to fit women is available from Magellan's for $28. See Useful Information for catalog info.
What Belongs in the Money Belt
I use a dual system: a pocket-type money belt together with a hold-up-your-pants money belt. I don't load them with anything less than crucial so they are as inconspicuous and comfortable as possible.
Into the hold-up-your-pants belt I put about ten $20 bills; one or two $100 travelers' checks; a trimmed photocopy of the first two pages of my passport; and a piece of paper with travelers' check numbers, American Express phone numbers, flight numbers, airline phone numbers, credit card numbers, foreign contacts, and any other vital information.
Into the other money belt I put the rest of my travelers' checks; the rest of my U.S. currency (probably not more than two hundred dollars); my passport and another trimmed photocopy of the first two pages of it; any visas; my Texas driver's license; three checks from my U.S. bank account; airline or other tickets; and another duplicate list of vital information. This is also the best place for your credit and ATM cards, but don't bring more cards than you need. Two or three should be sufficient.
The duplication is in case you lose one you won't be penniless or informationless in the cold. Additionally, I put more duplicated material in my pack, including a travelers' check or two; about $40 in cash; and another photocopy of vital information. Losing some of your stuff is bad, but losing everything could be really bad.
The money belt should not be used for day-to-day activities, but once per day to remove the necessary money for that day. You don't want to draw attention to it unnecessarily. A wallet or money clip can be used for the myriad of daily transactions.
Pickpockets call the back pocket the "sucker pocket," so don't carry your wallet there. I always use a front pocket or a jacket inside breast pocket. Other travelers keep theirs in a waist pack, but be wary of this in some situations.
I recommend sewing or gluing (Magic Stitch, $2, at sewing stores or Walmart) Velcro closures (same places) into your pockets to prevent their contents from spilling out, or from being pilfered. I have been lucky several times when my wallet fell from my pocket while sleeping on buses and trains. (While I haven't gotten around to doing this myself, I know it's a good idea.)
Unless you are using your credit card often, don't leave it in your wallet--keep it next to your skin in your money belt. Usually I just have whatever foreign currency remains from my last cashed travelers' check, which is rarely more than $100. There may also be a few coins, a bus pass, etc., but nothing of too dear value.
Some travelers prefer to keep their bills rolled into a money clip which they deposit deep in their front pocket. This is the lowest-profile way to carry your daily money.
Shoes
In higher crime countries it's worthwhile to put a greenback or two under the insole of your shoes. While I've never been robbed of everything, I've heard ugly stories from people who have, so I can assure you having a little money is infinitely better than no money.
Watches and Jewelry
While traveling in unknown lands never wear expensive watches or jewelry, or even watches or jewelry which look expensive. There is nothing like a real Cartier, a knock-off Rolex, or anything sparkling or gold to make you look like an easy mark and occasion a gun to your ear or a knife to your throat.
Thievery on Trains and Buses
The big backpacker scare in Thailand is being offered candy and drinks on trains and buses from supposedly friendly people. The treats are spiked with powerful drugs which knock you out. They then take whatever they want. While this is rare, it is doubly nasty because most Thais are wonderfully generous and love to offer sweets and things to visitors.
In some countries checking your pack on a train is the same as kissing it goodbye. Backpackers always carry their packs onto trains, and they usually place them on an overhead rack in easy sight. While sleeping it is a good idea to put your pack under your feet, or strap or padlock it to yourself or something. If you have a sleeping compartment, bring your pack in. These precautions are enough to deter most thieves, who move on to an easier target.
Unless you keep your pack to the size of a large daypack--no more than about 3000 cubic inches--bus drivers will sometimes insist your pack be put underneath, or on top of, the bus. Both are not so good, but on top is much worse. For one, it can get very wet up there. For another, anyone can climb up at any time and loot your pack, or toss it into a field to retrieve later. Or on a narrow mountain road as the bus plunges over a cliff, the pack could fly off without you.
When stowed underneath the driver and conductor have a higher level of responsibility, but I still make a point of checking on it occasionally, if only to let the staff know I'm keeping my eyes open. But then maybe they get the idea there really is something valuable in it, and they become inspired to steal my pack and retire early. But then again, just because I might be paranoid, that doesn't mean they aren't trying to steal my pack. But then again, didn't his eyes light up ever so slightly when I handed him my pack? And what about that guy getting off now. Why would anybody get off here? Does he have Grand Theft Pack Larceny on his mind, also?
It's better to just travel superlight and carry on your tiny pack, whistling.
Snatch and Run Thieves
Snatch and run thieves are usually teenagers who grab your purse, camera bag, fanny pack, or wallet and run like hell, or speed away on a motorbike. Beware motorbikes and teenagers prowling behind you. Straps may be cut with a knife or scissors. I have never encountered this type of crime, but it is prevalent in some large Italian cities where it's almost a fashion among some teenagers.
It's best not to carry a purse or camera bag on the street side of the sidewalk, and you should develop the habit of holding both securely. If you do carry a purse, don't have money or valuables inside. Carry camera equipment in a small nylon tote bag instead of a camera case that shouts to the world there is $500 inside. A confident, rapid walking pace is also a deterrent.
But again, don't become paranoid. Since a relaxed walking pace is the best way to observe and feel the world, the best compromise may be to relax and enjoy while remaining alert to your constantly changing surroundings.
In some South American cities, notably Lima, many travelers walk with their packs in front to prevent thieves from slicing it open from behind, dumping the contents onto the street. In a wild melee of people grabbing and running, you are left with one slashed pack. One victim said people were actually fighting over his stuff, including his shirts.
Street Children
You should also be aware of the Minos de la Calientes--the Children of the Streets. In a few major cities of Latin America (especially Rio de Janeiro, Brazil) and other parts of the developing world, there are thousands of children who have no home, no one to care for them, and only live by whatever they can beg or steal.
One ploy of street children is to surround you by pretending to sell you something, perhaps shoving a newspaper in your face, and then boldly going through your pockets, or slicing into your pack and fanny pack. If you shove some away, others step in like sharks in a frenzy. When they get what they want they scatter in all directions.
Another thieving tactic--one I have experienced--is for a child or two to "befriend you." He follows you around, carefully watching your every movement, continuously asking for money, inquiring about your things, and waiting for your wallet to appear. In an unguarded moment, perhaps as you are looking into your wallet to give him a few cruzados, or to make another transaction with someone else, he grabs whatever he can and runs.
Of course these kids have been dealt an awful hand in life, and are just trying to survive. And while you probably want to be compassionate with them, I suggest you apply such compassion to local aid agencies, if possible. It is just too risky to encourage desperate, hungry kids with gifts of sweets or money.
The best defense, as always, is to maintain a low profile and travel lightly. A hidden money belt is a necessity. In high-crime and street-urchin areas do not encourage even one child, as others may follow. Locals often treat street children like dogs, completely ignoring or threatening them. While I don't think many travelers can do that, you must keep your own safety in mind.
Other Security Precautions
Every major city has an area that is more dangerous than the rest, and a time when this is especially true. An area may be safe during the day, but takes on a more sinister character after nightfall. Such areas are always well-known to locals, so get advice from a hotel or tourist office. Most guidebooks also include warnings about red light or seedy areas, but things may have changed since the information was written.
Self-Defense
A few years ago I attended a self-defense class geared mainly for women, and taught by an Israeli Army veteran. As the only male student in the class, I was volunteered to attack the instructor, who then absurdly flung me around the room like a stuffed animal. After three humiliating results I concluded the path of good would be best for me.
He taught techniques the Israelis have developed over the past fifty years in their hostile environment. Not karate, kung fu, or other stylized systems, but a scientific approach to incapacitating an attacker as efficiently as possible.
He maintained that many men and women--but especially women--do not know how to react when attacked, and have never considered what they might do in such a situation. Of course travelers are only very rarely physically attacked, but the consequences are so traumatic it's worth forethought.
Following are a few points on defensive techniques. Again, while the probability of a physical attack on the traveler is low, it is better to know something rather than nothing. You may want to attend a good self-defense class.
Self-Defense Tips
THESE POINTS ONLY RELATE TO A PHYSICAL ATTACK UPON YOUR PERSON. If they want your money or belongings, let them have it. Even if you are a highly trained Israeli, if your attacker is armed with a gun or knife you are very likely to lose a fight very badly. (Please note I rarely write "very.")
1. Attackers often test victims before assaulting because they are looking for a good victim. He may shout or curse at you, and/or bump you. He wants you to become rattled, to stop in your tracks, and, in effect, turn yourself over to him. Mentally prepare yourself now for such a test. You want to look tough, confident, and unflustered.
2. In a fight for your life you cannot be squeamish about inflicting injury. You have many tools at your disposal, including fingernails, fingers, thumbs, teeth, elbows, and legs.
3. Get a finger in his eye and gouge. Get fingers in his mouth, dig in with your nails, and rip his cheeks out. The same for nostrils, ears, and balls: rip, tear, and gouge. Run when you get the chance.
4. Don't delude yourself that "knowing where to kick a man" is going to save you. That is a difficult or impossible blow to deliver in a fight. In reality you would need to use your fingers and nails to gouge and tear.
5. If the attacker has a choke-hold around your neck, you must break it within a few seconds. Don't grab onto his arms or hands to pull them off. Instead, join your hands together at your waist and swing them upward to blast his grip off, then come down with a blow to his nose or gouge his eyes out.
6. Fighting back may induce your attacker to greater violence, and some women have talked their way out of violence. No one can tell you what your response should be. You must decide then and there. Prepare now to make that decision.
7. Many Department of State Travel Advisories for various countries state that tourists who quietly accede to bandits' demands are usually not harmed. Do not argue, but give them whatever they want, including your car. The rule is: Do what they say, hand it over, and get away.
Travelers' Tips
In the Middle East if you come across a sign telling you to keep out of a place or town, keep out! I learned this after coming a hair's breadth from being stoned to death by a group of Palestinians who thought I was Israeli. Since tourist dollars are much desired there, there is good reason for any such warnings. Robin, Brownsville, Texas
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When booking airline, bus and train tickets try to arrive at your destination during daylight hours, especially in some large American and developing world cities. There can be dangerous people at some of these bus stations looking for vulnerability. If you become a target, don't show weakness--instead look arrogant and confident. Even in times of dire poverty, sometimes money spent on a taxi is a great bargain. Duncan "Slam" Nicholas, Wellsford, New Zealand
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Opportunity makes the thief.