Having learned only a bit of French in school, in most of the countries I have traveled there has been a language gap between me and the natives. Fortunately for travelers and the human race, thought is independent of language. 1 Therefore the shared experience of being human allows us to communicate many basic aspects of being human.
Indeed it is not only possible but relatively easy to navigate other countries with little or no command of the local language. Furthermore, English is the international language. Around the world when an Italian meets a Dane they usually communicate in English as it is probably the language they both speak best. In Asia, with over twenty major languages, English is used for business, tourism, air-traffic control, etc. English is also the lingua-franca for many African countries. Thus we monolingual Americans have lucked-out.
Because we Americans come from a huge country where English is spoken from one end to the other, we often have more fear than other nationalities about not being able to communicate. Most countries are far smaller than ours, and their people are more comfortable traveling in places where they don't speak the native language. They are also more adapted to dealing with visitors who don't speak their language.
Few travel backpackers in Poland (and there are many) speak any Polish; few in Hungary speak the unusual language of Hungarian; and in Tanzania not more than one backpacker in twenty before arrival knows much more than one word of Swahili. (Which would probably be "Jambo," which passes for "hello," "goodbye," "good day," and "Yes, I will have some chicken soup, thank you.") So don't let a perceived lack of language skills be a barrier to international travel.
English is widely known in much of Europe. Indeed many Europeans have at least some facility with many languages. The first Belgian truck driver I met spoke no fewer than five languages well. (I later discovered this was about average for Belgian truck drivers.)
But that doesn't mean you should immediately begin babbling in English when you first approach someone. First politely ask their pardon, and then humbly ask if they speak English, preferably in their language. Since it is likely you often won't know more than one or two words of the native tongue, you'll get plenty of practice with the "humbly" part. As one hilarious German shot back to my query, "While you were sitting in the back of finger-painting class shooting spitballs, I was learning Italian, Spanish, French, and yes, a little English!"
We should also be aware that when someone speaks English she is not speaking an American language. English is a world language we are fortunate to speak. If you comment that she has a funny accent, she could rightfully retort it is your accent that is funny. You will meet many non-native English speakers who have "funny accents," but also have better English vocabularies than many Americans.
How will I know what people are saying to me?
The absolute, indisputable fact is if you just nod your head, smile, and seem agreeable everything will sail along just fine about ninety percent of the time. When making simple, not-too-important everyday transactions with non-English-speaking clerks and waiters--and you just want to expedite the matter--you can usually just nod and agree pleasantly with whatever they are saying. Most of the time you have already effectively communicated what you want just by physically being wherever you are. They are probably just making a pleasantry, or some finer point like "Where would you like to sit?" "I have relatives in Chicago!" or, "Will Pepsi be okay?"
If their expression changes and it sounds like they are asking the same question again, try a shake of the head along with a shrug, opening up the hands to simultaneously say "no" and "I haven't a clue what you're saying." A competent clerk or waiter will pick the appropriate response and carry on from there.
The other technique is to politely ask if they speak English. All travelers, including Germans, Italians, Japanese, and even French do this. They will say "Yes, a little," "No," or they will find someone who can. Eventually the problem is solved or it just goes away. (I offer my presence once again in the USA as proof.)
These techniques lead to an occasional surprise, but usually on the level of "beef" or "chicken." Most travelers soon learn not to be too picky. (As long as it's not liver or monkey brains I'll eat it.)
Communicating with someone who speaks only a little or an unknown amount of English can be tricky. People who say they don't speak English may actually know a few or many words. Keep your sentences simple, make your pronunciation clear, and speak slowly. Experienced travelers do this routinely.
Sometimes it is a good idea to give your English a local inflection. In Poland I once had to say "Coke" and "Coca-cola" ten times before I hit on the right sound combination for a baffled young waitress. Asians have their own special pronunciation of English that is fun and sometimes helpful to mimic.
Try not to use nonstandard American idioms. "Hey dude, can you possibly clue me in where the restroom is?" will not be easily understood. A simple "Toilet?" and a quizzical look will get better results. You don't need to go into a big production to communicate simple things. Indeed too much verbalizing often leads to unnecessary confusion. Again, an incredible amount of communication is understood without spoken language. We are all human beings, after all.
If I'm staying in a country for more than about a week, one of the first things I do when I arrive is to shop bookstores for an English-That Language/That Language-English pocket dictionary with, if possible, verb conjugations. They are always a popular item, and cost just a few dollars.
Phrase books, such as the multi-language Berlitz or Lonely Planet European phrase books, are useful, but best if used in conjunction with a dictionary. If I could have only one, I would choose a dictionary due to its greater flexibility when used with the following language sheet system.
I tried an electronic translator, but keying in the words was ponderous, it wasn't nearly as useful as a book, and it made me feel extra-ridiculous.
To begin write on a single 8.5 x 11 inch sheet of paper the fifty basic travel words below, with their translations and pronunciations in the languages you need, one sheet per language. A single sheet places everything you know in that language in front of you. This system works best when used with a pocket-sized English/That Language--That Language/English dictionary.
Try to learn a few new words of the local language every day. Write them on your sheet and keep it in a pocket. Pull it out when trying to communicate with someone, perhaps showing them the word you are trying to pronounce. You may be surprised at the generous language lessons you receive. Let them write on if they want to. It makes a nice momento, and you can always make another if they get carried away.
I highly recommend attending Spanish language schools in Guatemala. For $75 to $150 per week you get four to seven hours per day of one-on-one instruction, and room and board with a local family. Living with them you eat mostly eggs and beans, and get an authentic feel for Guatemalan life.
In two to four weeks you can acquire a working knowledge of Spanish, get much more from your future Latin travels, and even improve your job prospects back home. It's probably better if you don't make reservations in advance, but just show up as there are hundreds of schools competitive for your business.
Every week you could go to a different school in a different city. I know of at least one school in a colorful, isolated, highland village. The former colonial capital Antigua is a beautiful, fun, and safe place to begin. In summer it's loaded with gringos and gringas. There you can also get decent private rooms for a few dollars per night.
Ecuador and Peru also have inexpensive Spanish language schools popular with backpackers.
The best way to prepare is to study conjugations from a verb dictionary.
Politesse is the use of courteous formality to show respect and consideration for others. Many of us in the States have become quite informal and "easy-going"--to the point we may seem overly casual and abrupt to foreigners. But in many parts of the world the old standards still exist.
In France, for example, you should pepper your phrases with liberal doses of "Monsieur," "Madame," and "s'il vous plaît." People throughout the world expect to be addressed with respect by a stranger.
If you want to be polite it's a good idea to tone-down your gestures when traveling, since you probably won't know all the local customs and mores. In general, don't point your hand or foot at anyone, or belch, yawn, or loudly fart, unless, of course, you're just obviously joining in.
In Thailand it's rude to expose the sole of your shoe or foot to someone, to step over someone, and to touch anyone on the head. In India and other places where toilet paper is not significant to the culture, touching anyone or handing them anything with the left hand will raise more than eyebrows.
Western travelers, on the other hand, may be distressed by the tendency of some Arabs in normal conversation to lock their unblinking eyes mere inches from yours. As noted by American anthropologist Edward T. Hall, this is normal conversational distance for Arabs. (Indeed some Arabs believe they can determine your reaction to what is being said by whether your pupils dilate or contract: if they dilate, you like or approve; if they contract, you dislike or disapprove.)
In the 1950's Hall pioneered proxemics and kinesics, which are the studies of how people of different cultures use nonverbal signals to communicate.
- Proxemics
- includes social distances between communicators, and the use of time, smell, touch, space, and territoriality (untouchable space).
- Kinesics
- includes body movement, gestures, facial expression, eye contact, posture, and speaking volume.
Since most people are unaware of their own cultural patterns of nonverbal communication, they are unprepared to deal with the patterns of other cultures. This is probably the major cause of misunderstanding between cultures as we interpret each other as rude, pushy, childlike, cold, etc., usually not for what is said, but how it is said, and how we act.
Hall's books are required reading for Peace Corps volunteers. Several are listed in the bibliography, and all are helpful for communicating with a higher level of understanding. But just being aware of the nonverbal aspects of communication will help. I recommend for travelers to be sensitive to the rhythm of ordinary life around them, and to try to get themselves in sync with that rhythm.
This is actually easy as we humans have a natural instinct for mimicry. While you don't need to out-Zelig Woody Allen in Zelig (in which he takes on the appearance of a Chinese after a few weeks in China), for most Americans slowing-down and getting with the beat of local life is essential for absorbing the richness of a foreign culture.
Don't be embarrassed to use sign language. It works great, gets better with practice, and is an age-old and completely normal method of communication. You already know dozens of signs. (GRAPHIC ARTIST OR PLASTIC-FACED MODEL-PHOTOGRAPHER WANTED.)
- Eat, hungry, food, restaurant--Motion to open mouth, pat stomach.
- Don't know--Shoulders shrugged, hands and eyebrows raised.
- Money, expensive, how much?--Thumb and fingers rubbed together.
- A little--Thumb and forefinger held close together.
- Time--Tap of wrist.
- Oops!--Fingers to mouth, eyes open wide.
- Which way, where?--Fingers pointed in opposite directions with quizzical look.
- Nice to see you--Smile.
- This isn't what I ordered!--Face contorted to Munch's The Scream.
Backpackers from all over the world can pretty much say anything to each other to strike up a conversation. One English backpacker opened up to me with about ten lines of Shakespeare I couldn't quite catch. (My reply: "Et tu, Brutus?") You don't always have to begin with where are you from, how long have you been traveling, how do you like it, etc. While everyone is an exception some of the time, overall we are an interesting, fun, and good-humored bunch. And we all know one of the best sources of information is other travelers.
If you travel on a low budget you will probably get a lot of advice from the people you meet. Some of it will be of the highest value. Some of it will be pure crap.
In such societies you will be expected to be an envoy from your family. They may ask first and foremost about your family, ask to see pictures, ask what they do, etc. I usually carry a family photo in my wallet for such occasions.
With one group I visited it was customary to seek out and individually greet each person in descending order from eldest to youngest, including children. This took about five pleasant minutes for a gathering of about twenty. (I was following a German traveler's lead.) While my experience is limited, it's probably a good general rule to show respect to elders first and foremost.
Understand that you are on their turf. Be polite and gracious. Try to be sensitive and not make snap judgments. It takes years for anthropologists to get an accurate feel for what's going on in any society. As a traveler you really can't expect to do much more than observe.
I recommend taking it easy with the camera. Pulling out a camera often changes the dynamics of communication for the worse--if not eliminating it entirely. Most tourist photography I see is intrusive and a kind of trophy--and it really does take away something. While some people don't seem to mind, there may be a larger story beneath the surface smiles and nods.
Many cultures frown upon or prohibit photography. In one village near San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chiapas (southern Mexico) photographers face a $65 fine, confiscation of film and camera, and even a night in jail. The villagers' sincere religious beliefs (which are not Catholic) are counter to the desires of most tourists. The Tarahumara people of northern Mexico endure a great deal of photography from tourists, but if you ever talk to these quiet and shy people privately, you'll find they really don't like it.
If you want someone's photograph don't flash your camera in their unsuspecting face for a quick snap, be a sneak-thief with your telephoto, or throw candy to children. Instead, approach your subject with all the human warmth and politesse you can muster, register your intent with a motion to your camera, and let them know their time and cooperation is a small treasure.
If a tip is desired consider the offer with respect, even if you ultimately decline. Sending your subject a beautiful print may be much appreciated. Approached correctly, many people will be happy to pose.
As I wrote this I was thinking of someone I met and didn't photograph, a middle-aged woman in fantastic native dress, her smile, beauty, and dignity.
In New Zealand an older Japanese woman got off a tour bus and came up to Reg, a tall and wild-haired Maori fellow I was hitchhiking with, and began singing what sounded like a traditional Japanese song, perhaps of greeting. It was really something. Then she bowed and smiled, got back on her bus, and waved as she zoomed off.
That evening we clinked our beer glasses to toast that wonderful woman. It was our considered opinion that if you have a song to sing, by all means, sing it.
1. From linguist Steven Pinker's most readable The Language Instinct (New York: Harperperennial Library, 1995) (Back)