Greenland A comprehensive instructionBy Peter SteensenCopyright text and photos: Greenland Tourism a/s 1995 Photo by Peter Steensen Greenland Tourism a/s is the national tourist board of Greenland This page contains in-depth info about: Angling in Greenland, Salmon, Arctic Char, Halibut, Icefishing, Blue Catfish, Atlantic Catfish, Cod, Fjord Cod, Rosefish, Capelin, Shellfish, Greenland Shark, Sandeels, Porbeagle, Sea Scorpion (This instruction is also avaible in a Danish version) CONTENTS GREENLAND FOR ANGLERS Getting to Greenland Getting about in Greenland Accommodation The best places to fish in Greenland FISHING FOR ARCTIC CHAR Arctic char Arctic char in rivers Spinning in rivers Spinning in lakes Fly fishing for Arctic char in seas and rivers Mountain hiking and fishing Spinning for Arctic char on the coast Coastal fly fishing for Arctic char Fishing for Arctic char from a dinghy Trolling for Arctic char Ice-fishing for Arctic char Returning fish Plan your Arctic char adventure thoroughly from home SEA FISHING Sea-fishing tackle Jig fishing Coarse fishing with natural bait Tiring out and landing the fish Fish species for the sea angler Other fish for the angler Waves, wind and water Plan your sea-fishing trip thoroughly from home SALMON FISHING Greenlandic salmon have come a long way The salmon season Where are the salmon? Trolling Salmon trolling equipment Salmon trolling requires planning PRACTICAL INFORMATION Fishing permits Taking home your catch Safety on board Tour Operators - angling - Greenland. GREENLAND FOR ANGLERS Halibut the size of coffee tables, giant cod and mega-catfish weighing 10-20 kilos, salmon of the deepest pink and king-size char eager to bite. Does that sound like a dream? Well, it's not in Greenland. A country where your dreams can become reality and fishing adventures in unique natural surroundings are waiting for you everywhere, in scenery which can change from the lushest valleys with golden flowers and green bushes to bare stony plains hemmed in by rugged mountains with snow on top. Greenland offers a wealth of opportunities for the angler. The world's largest island is like a great buffet table, but distances are great and it is essential to prioritise and plan the fishing tour thoroughly, deciding where to start and finish. Enticing fishing adventures are practically everywhere, or as good as: in deep blue fjords and further out at sea you will find halibut - the largest of the species are found along the coast of Greenland, say biologists, and now and again a monster halibut goes on the war path, making the rod bend to its limit, the line sing in the wind and the reel sound like a dentist's drill. Greenland is also known for its large catfish and it is not unusual for fish up to 15-20 kg to be landed. There are also 10-20 kg cod as well as a sea of smaller ones at 3-8 kg - if you can track them down! In addition, there are the handsome rosefish - also known as Norway haddock or ocean perch. These are fine orangey-red perch with squinting eyes and spines on their backs. Rosefish of 1-3 kg are everyday fare in Greenlandic waters. In late summer shoals of salmon of the deepest hue invade the Greenlandic coast and fjords. Salmon from near and far gather in Greenland for the big feeding party of the year. The salmon generally follow in the wake of the large feed shoals of capelin, krill and sandeels and, if you are lucky, you can track down the salmon by boat or dinghy. For periods some quite unforgettable salmon trolling is offered, with copious catches of bright silver beauties in the lovely fjords, where you can follow the changing face of the Greenlandic landscape from the sea whilst sailing amongst seals, whales and icebergs. If you would rather have firm ground under your feet, there are innumerable gushing wild rivers and lakes as clear as gin which offer battles with the liveliest Arctic char, who are always willing to put up a fight. Along the coast, too, there is splendid Arctic char fishing in June and July, when the char migrate to saltwater to find food. Greenland is fantastic and catch-tastic and at the same time a world of its own - the like of which can be experienced virtually nowhere else on earth. The seasons are also unique: March/April is winter in Greenland, with sparkling snow-covered landscapes, dog-sledge driving, ice fishing for Greenland halibut in the fjords and Arctic char from the ice over the lakes, clear weather, temperatures below zero and high sun. In May and June the brief Greenlandic spring turns into the Arctic summer. North of the Arctic Circle the midnight sun makes the days long. The Arctic char put to sea, cod and halibut come into the fjords to feed themselves up on krill, sandeels, prawns and capelin. Whales surface and the first salmon hit Southern Greenland. At the end of August and September the first signs of autumn appear. The mountain landscape changes colour and glows with beautiful oranges, red and yellows. The weather can be very fine, the clouds are gone and the nights are black and cold. Average temperatures are still above zero. In fact, the weather is a bit like what you find in June with pleasant and stable weather conditions a feature. If the weather is clear the Northern Lights send their hazy rays into the dark night sky in south-west Greenland, pointing straight up to the stars. It is an unforgettable sight which makes any laser light show pale by comparison. The Arctic char are now on their way up river to spawn and offer exciting battles. The catfish are biting again after the first night frost, and draw into shallower water after having spent a summer holiday with 100-200 metres of water over their backs. The salmon are in fine form after feeding themselves up in fjords and in open waters in the Davis Strait. In Greenland the angler can find almost all his heart desires, and it can be a problem deciding which of the splendid fish to go for. If you have only a limited period of time (2-3 weeks), we recommend that you contact the regional and local tourist offices in good time so that you can put together exactly the right fishing expedition. Several travel agencies also organise special tours, and it can often be an advantage to take part in a "package" tour where everything is arranged by the tour operator. Not only do you save on planning time, but you also know what to expect of the trip. You can also choose to arrange a very 0special fishing expedition by yourself or with a group of like-minded people, and dip your rod into some of the virginal waters far off the beaten track. It doesn't have to cost a great deal more, provided there are a few of you to share the costs. You might have your own special dream of experiencing virginal waters in Greenland: going out to a river or lake where the char have never seen a spinner before - or one which is perhaps visited by only a few people each year. Or a fishing club or a few good friends may embark upon a sea-fishing adventure on a cutter amongst icebergs, seals and whales to fish for halibut or large catfish. Here it is clearly an advantage to make special arrangements with like-minded people from home - possibly in co-operation with the travel agencies specialising in Greenland. Give free rein to your ideas - and let the dream become reality. Maybe your catches won't break any records in Greenland, but you will almost certainly catch a lot of fish - and experience a unique and unforgettable landscape into the bargain. GETTING TO GREENLAND AND TRAVELLING AROUND Getting to Greenland In recent years it has become easier and considerably cheaper to fly to Greenland than before. The flight takes 4-5 hours. Greenland has several international airports served by scheduled airlines. Narsarsuaq in Southern Greenland has services from Copenhagen in Denmark and Keflavik in Iceland. Eastern Greenland has links between Kulusuk and Keflavik in Iceland, and Kangerlussuaq has services to Canada and Copenhagen. In 1995 the price of a return APEX ticket between Denmark and Kangerlussuaq was DKK 4,600. An APEX ticket between Copenhagen and Nuuk cost DKK 7,600 whilst Copenhagen-Ilulissat cost approx. DKK 7,200 and Copenhagen-Sisimiut around DKK 7,600. From Iceland to Narsarsuaq in Southern Greenland the price of a standard return ticket was DKK 5,400 whilst the price of an APEX ticket was DKK 3,200. From Iceland to Kulusuk a standard return ticket cost DKK 4,500 in 1995 and an APEX ticket DKK 3,500. Further details of airline tickets, departures and prices are available from all travel agencies which are IATA agents. In addition, the airlines SAS, Iceland Air and First Air have offices internationally. Getting about in Greenland Greenlandair provides internal flights in Greenland and covers Narsarsuaq, Nuuk, Ilulissat, Kulusuk and Kangerlussuaq in small aircraft. The other routes are flown either in large Sikorsky 61 helicopters or smaller helicopters such as Bell 212s. Qaanaaq (Thule) is served via Kangerlussuaq. Special fishing expeditions to remote waters are often made in a small aircraft or helicopter. In the main towns it is possible to charter a helicopter from Greenlandair. Greenlandair P.O. Box 1012, DK-3900 Nuuk Tel. +299 28888. Fax +299 28836 If you want to go out to a particularly remote river or mountain lake it may be necessary to be flown there. This is a relatively expensive business, approx. DKK 3,000-4,000 for a half-hour flight, but the price is affordable if there are a number of you to share the cost. For example, for six people it would cost approx. DKK 600 per person for a 30-minute flight. Otherwise the 1995 charter prices per hour from Greenlandair were as follows: DKK 25,500 for an SK61 helicopter, a Bell 212 cost DKK 18,900 per hour, a Bell 206 could be hired for approx. DKK 6,000 an hour, a Bell 206 LR cost DKK 8,300 an hour and an AS 350 DKK 9,000 per hour (1995 prices). Fixed-wing aircraft can also be hired by the hour: for example, a Dash 7 costs DKK 21,960 an hour whilst a Twin Otter costs DKK 11,000 an hour. Aircraft and helicopter transport can be arranged in the major towns and airports. If you do not want to fly in Greenland there is also a regular boat which sails along the coast of south-west Greenland. This service is operated by the company KNI, which has three vessels sailing along the coast. You can sleep and eat on board these passenger ships for a reasonable price, and the trip is an experience within an experience. In addition, there are a number of smaller ships linking towns and villages locally. It is considerably cheaper to sail than to fly; for example, a ticket from Sisimiut to Nuuk by ship starts at DKK 800 for a cabin place - the same trip costs DKK 2,250 by air, but the limited number of tickets available on the coastal routes mean it is recommended that you book the trip in very good time. And remember, too, that Greenland's own population are keen travellers in the summer period. You are therefore advised to reserve tickets on ships or aircraft in good time. Ticket bookings and seat reservations can be made, and information on departure times obtained, at local KNI passenger offices, but also via the international distribution and booking system Amadeus to which over 100,000 travel agencies, tour operators and airlines are connected. An alternative is to contact KNI's head office in Greenland: KNI-Service A/S P.O. Box 608, DK-3900 Nuuk Tel. +299 2 52 11. Fax +299 2 53 11 During the voyage you will experience many aspects of this splendid wilderness as it constantly changes shape and colour. Fjords sparkle; curious seals stick their heads above water to greet you and "wave" goodbye with their tails. Icebergs sail past in every colour from jade green to ice blue. Whales surface and send their spray metres into the air. All transport is subject to weather conditions, and weather changes in Greenland can rapidly cause delays or changes to travel schedules, so make sure you have at least one day spare when planning your schedule in case the weather should show its worse side. These are the terms in the Arctic. Air traffic is particularly vulnerable to fog and bad weather. At times, boat traffic also has to stop, such as when a storm comes in from the sea or when icebergs prevent all sailing because of currents and wind. There are no real roads in Greenland. Cars can be driven only in towns, airports and larger settlements, but otherwise the major forms of transport are by aircraft or boat. In the six months of winter you can also travel overland by snow scooter - and, north of the Arctic Circle, by dog-sledge too. Often it is impossible to get to fishing areas without a boat because of the large distances involved. A passenger-approved boat with room for 8-18 people costs DKK 4,000-6,000 a day. That's why it is clearly an advantage to be part of a group if you want to go on day trips to remote waters. In Kangerlussuaq and Narsarsuaq, however, lakes and rivers are available close to the airport, and you can hike to your mountain char adventure in a reasonably short time. Accommodation Accommodation is available on a private basis: in apartments, tents or cabins, in youth hostels, seamen's homes or hotels - all depending on your preference and finances. Greenland has hotels in all categories. Most of the hotels were built in the past 10 years and have facilities such as en-suite bathrooms and TV and telephone in the rooms. A single en-suite room costs around DKK 750 a night, whilst a double room costs around DKK 950. The seamen's homes were originally built to provide overnight accommodation for sailors whilst their ship was in port. Today they can be used by anyone wanting simpler accommodation. A single room without en-suite facilities costs from DKK 350, whilst a double room costs from DKK 500. "Youth hostel" is a term used to cover a very varied range of facilities and in Greenland they are similar to the youth hostels we know in Europe. Many larger towns have a youth hostel with facilities such as a kitchen, dormitories, bathrooms, flush toilets, kiosk, etc. One night's accommodation costs around DKK 150-250. Most anglers choose to stay in a village or town and use this as a starting point for day trips. This is particularly the case for sea anglers and salmon trolling enthusiasts, whilst anglers going after Arctic char often go on trips of longer duration in the country, living in a tent. If you are staying in a village or town and want to go out to remote fishing waters, transport to the fishing waters will in some cases be by helicopter or aircraft, which can be chartered in the major towns: Kulusuk, Narsarsuaq, Nuuk, Kangerlussuaq and Ilulissat. It is also possible to be taken out to a particular river or lake by boat, live in a tent or cabin for a period and be collected later. You can also hike out to the char river yourself - of course, this is the cheapest way to see Greenland, but it is by no means the worst way. On a combined fishing and hiking trip you really get the feel of the unique natural environment at close quarters, and if you are lucky and observant you may see reindeer, musk oxen, arctic foxes, grouse, white-tailed eagles or some of the very common species of migratory birds which visit the country in the summer months. The best places to fish in Greenland This question is always the first one asked by anglers when planning a fishing trip to Greenland. It can be answered very easily: there is good fishing everywhere - or virtually everywhere. All over the country the natural landscape provides opportunity for great experiences with your rod, whether in rivers, lakes or at sea. Having said that, don't forget that Greenland is an enormous island and certain fishing waters are easier to get to than others. You should also know that even the most easily accessible fishing waters are visited by very few people - often you will have the water to yourself. If you take part in a package tour you don't have to think about internal transport in Greenland by air or boat or about accommodation and meals - everything is arranged from home. On the other hand, if you organise the trip independently, it is essential to plan and consider transport facilities thoroughly before your departure. If you decide to fish in an area close to the Atlantic airport where you land, then your transport within Greenland will be relatively cheaper than if you want to visit a remote fishing area. As a starting point, you should bear in mind that each flight will cost between approx. DKK 280 and DKK 3,000. If you want to go fishing at sea you will need boat transport. There are normally several suitable, approved boats in the larger towns. In smaller towns and villages it can be difficult to find a boat or dinghy which is approved by the Maritime Authority. Often there are only private boats, fishing vessels or dinghies owned by local fishermen and hunters. The same applies if you want to be transported to the fishing area by boat rather than hiking to a lake or river. In Southern Greenland flights from Denmark land at Narsarsuaq Airport. On the edge of the town is a small harbour served by regular boats which sail off Southern Greenland. These boats are a cheap way to travel compared with travel by aircraft or helicopter. The towns in the area are close to each other, as is usual in Greenland, and much of the angling in the area has been charted by locals. In addition, there are good opportunities to combine mountain hiking with fishing in the area. There is a range of accommodation in Narsarsuaq (population 137), Qaqortoq (population 3,178), Narsaq (population 1,753) and the surrounding villages. Several sheep farmers in Southern Greenland offer private accommodation close to rivers and lakes with plenty of fish. A helicopter can be chartered in Narsarsuaq if you want transport out to remote waters. Within a short distance of Narsarsuaq there is sea fishing for halibut, cod and catfish. There is also excellent Arctic char fishing and fascinating trolling for salmon in the area. Boats can be hired for sea-fishing and salmon trolling in Narsaq and Qaqortoq. You can also book transport by boat to the great char waters in the area from here. In Central Greenland there are 3 towns: Sisimiut (population 4,839), Maniitsoq (population 3,067) and Nuuk (population 12,483), and close to the Inland Ice is the airport town of Kangerlussuaq (population 281). Aircraft from Denmark land in Kangerlussuaq several times a week and there are a number of rivers and lakes offering fishing for Arctic char close to the town. It is also possible to go sea-fishing from the little harbour on the edge of the town - at the bottom of the 180 kilometre long Søndre Strømfjord. You can charter a helicopter at Kangerlussuaq Airport if you want to visit the more difficult to access waters in the area. If you want to visit other towns or fishing waters it will be necessary to use a scheduled flight or helicopter. As an example, a one-way ticket by helicopter to Sisimiut cost DKK 1,040 in 1995. Sisimiut is particularly well-known for its formidable sea-fishing for halibut and large catfish, huge cod and large rosefish. In addition, experiments are in progress involving trolling for salmon in the area, and several rivers and lakes rich in fish sparkle with Arctic char in peak condition. Nuuk, which lies at the mouth of the Godthåb Fjord, offers interesting and varied fishing in a powerful fjord complex. You will find several boats which can be chartered for angling in the town. You can also charter a helicopter or seaplane in Nuuk if you want to visit the large untouched area known as "the North Country". This is a real char paradise with many practically virginal char lakes. In Disko Bay the towns are relatively close to each other. You can reach Disko Bay by taking a domestic flight via Kangerlussuaq to Illulissat (population 4,057) or by scheduled boat. In the six summer months the towns around Disko Bay are served by ships which cover the area regionally at frequent intervals. These provide plenty of opportunities to visit several fishing waters and areas. In addition, helicopters can be chartered from Ilulissat. The area offers both exciting sea-fishing for cod and halibut, char fishing in lakes and rivers and incredibly fascinating ice fishing for Greenland halibut with local fishermen and hunters. Disko Bay also contains huge icebergs from the active glaciers in the area, which make sea-fishing here a unique experience. Eastern Greenland contains the town of Ammassalik (population 1,561) with an airport at Kulusuk (population 327) and a number of surrounding villages. The easiest way to get to Eastern Greenland is by air from Iceland. The area offers exciting sea-fishing for cod, Greenland halibut, catfish, Greenland shark and halibut. From Kulusuk and Ammassalik chartered helicopter trips are offered to Arctic char waters far from the towns. In the Thule region, which is the most northerly populated area in Greenland, you can ice-fish for Greenland halibut and Arctic cod close to the town of Avanersuaq. Transport to the area is via Kangerlussuaq to the American base at Pittufik. FISHING FOR ARCTIC CHAR Zzzzz - the brake on the reel gives line and the rod marks out the beat
in sharp staccato. A wild Arctic char has attacked the Mepps spinner in
the crystal clear river and is haring off downstream. Arctic char The Arctic char is also known by the name "mountain trout" and both permanently resident and sea-migrating types of the species are found, not only in Greenland but throughout the circumpolar region, such as in Iceland, Canada and Northern Norway. The Arctic char is known in Greenlandic as Eqaluk. The permanently resident fish are found in certain lakes. These are Arctic char which do not migrate to the sea - generally because the water in question no longer has access to the sea. These permanent fish are similar to the sea-migrating Arctic char, but for most of the time they live in rivers or lakes without migrating to the sea to eat in the summer. That's why permanent fish do not gain so much weight as sea-migrating fish, which consume a lot of food during their migration to the sea. It takes 3-5 years after birth in freshwater for the small sea-migrating Arctic char to become large enough to migrate from the cold freshwater of rivers and lakes which contain little nutrition to the well-stocked dining room of the sea. The Arctic char gains a lot of weight in the 6-10 weeks of summertime, which the fish spends in the sea, gorging itself on capelin, krill, prawns and other good things from the sea. In principle, the Arctic char is the only member of the Salmonidae family found in Greenlandic rivers and lakes. That is not quite true any more, because one river, "The Kapisilit River" at the back of the Godthåb fjord, has a small stock of salmon. However, Greenlanders have decided to call the Arctic char "Greenland salmon". This can cause confusion and is misleading because of the confusion with the "proper" salmon in the Kapisilit river - the genuine Atlantic salmon which is drawn to Greenlandic waters in large shoals in the late summer. Greenlanders call these salmon "scaly salmon" because of their loose, large scales. When the Arctic char migrates upstream after a period in saltwater it may weigh anything from a few hundred grams to 3-4 kilos. During its initial period in the river the fish is characterised by its bright silver scales and almost blue-green back with small light spots along the sides at the bottom. After a period in freshwater the fish changes colour, the back becomes more greeny and light yellow spots appear. Cock-fish which are to spawn gradually become bent, and the belly of the Arctic char takes on the most beautiful orangey-red hue. The white edges of the red pectoral and dorsal fins bear witness to the fact that the fish is ready to spawn. Once breeding has been completed in October/November, the winter is spent in the river or the lake from which the fish originates. Through most of the winter the fish takes in almost no food in this poorly nutritious, cold freshwater. The average size of the Arctic char varies significantly from river to river and from sea to sea - depending on the feeding conditions and how untouched the water is. In certain waters in remote locations which are, therefore, not exposed to illegal net fishing, Arctic char may be up to 70-80 cm in length, but by far the majority are rarely over 60 cm. Anglers can generally expect fish weighing up to 1-3 kilos. However, even fish of this size are an impressive piece of biology which any angler should respect. A fish weighing 1-1.5 kilos can easily be 20 years old! Take this growth and compare it, for example, with a Scandinavian salmon or sea trout which reaches this weight in just 1-2 years. Arctic char in rivers The 4-6 weeks from July onwards are considered to be the real peak season for Arctic char, with most of these fiery sprinters cropping up in the mouths of rivers and upstream towards the spawning grounds. Then it is just a matter of having a spinner or spoon-bait in the water for, unlike the Atlantic salmon which does not take in food in freshwater, the Arctic char likes to eat - and how! In Southern Greenland the river fishing starts in mid-July and the further north you go along the coast, the later the fish migrate up the rivers. It is generally the large fish which migrate first, whilst smaller Arctic char weighing 400-800 grams follow suit. Greenland's rivers can be divided into cloudy or unclear melt-water rivers, and clear rivers which, generally, originate from lakes, where the cloud in the water has fallen to the bottom. Most Greenlandic rivers are short and fast-flowing with thrashing waterfalls, and therefore the fish will, almost without exception, prefer the calm areas of the river away from the main current. Remember, too, that the greater the fall a river has in the lower stages, the fewer fish it tends to attract! In the worst case, rivers with too abrupt a fall may be entirely empty of fish or may only contain a very small stock of Arctic char in the mouth area. If the Arctic char do not migrate they will often stay behind rocks or in deep "holes", or at the edges or in the "backwaters" of the pools, which are always found near one bank where the river bends. The backwater is the place where the current in the river runs almost in the opposite direction to the main current. Backwaters are typically found at bends in the river. The phenomenon can be deduced by observing that the river seems to be running round and round in circles rather than running downstream. Since the Arctic char is a social fish, it likes to migrate up river with others of the same size, and the fish also migrate to the spawning place together with other Arctic char. 3-7 fish may come one after the other, and one can almost watch fish by fish as they migrate from one resting place to the next. When the fish reach the spawning ground there is a fight for places - there is no question of sharing here. In daylight hours the Arctic char often prefers places in the river where it can be sheltered, particularly in clear weather with high sunshine. This may be behind rocks or small water excrescences which waft midstream, along the banks or behind large rocks where the fish can be sheltered and feel secure. When the sun is lower in the sky the fish often venture to other places in the current in their migration upstream. Spinning in rivers To get the most out of your fishing a 6-8 foot (180-240 cm) one-handed rod of graphite or carbon with a relatively fast and swift action designed to cope with casting weights from 6-15 grams is a good starting point. These are light and fast rods which cast well and give fingertip feeling of the artificial bait at the end of the line. There is absolutely no reason to use long unwieldy rods, much too large reels and excessively strong equipment overall. It takes much of the excitement out of the fishing. The best rods for the purpose should be so hook-sensitive that you feel even the slightest nip and irregular pulling from the spoon-bait. If the river is more than 15 metres wide, however, it may sometimes be advantageous to have a slightly longer spinner rod, e.g. an 8 foot rod (240 cm), since this makes it easier to hold the line free from the current. Choose a small and light fixed-spool reel which suits the size of the rod and ensure it is filled to the spool edge with 0.25 mm line. Thinner lines may be an advantage in some places, particularly in completely clear rivers where the visibility is so good that you almost have to bend down to find the surface. If there are a lot of boulders and rocks, for example, at least 0.25 mm line must be spooled onto the reel, otherwise you will place a sea of spinners and spoon-baits on the bottom. Let the nature of the river decide the line thickness spooled onto the reel and take both 0.20 and 0.25 mm line with you. For spinning you should take along 200-300 metres of extra line in addition to what you need to fill the reel. After just a few days' fishing the line will have suffered so much damage from wear on stones and rocks under the surface that it can easily break. Spinning for Arctic char is generally carried out with small spinners, e.g. Vibrax, Mepps no. 2-3 in silver and copper, possibly with red dots; Mepps Black Fury is also one of the most successful. Rooster Tail spinners and Panter and Mrrum spinners in weights from 4-15 grams are also splendid to have with you in your tackle box. Some of the many spoon-baits considered favourites by the locals for river and lake fishing in Greenland are: Jensen Tobis, Flipper, Møresilda, Filur, Toby, Jensen Pirk, Trumf and similar types in weights from 3-12 grams. The sea-migrating Arctic char is generally not fussy about spinners, spoon-baits and flies when in the river, but can be very selective in his choice of artificial bait and does not like to waste unnecessary energy pursuing the "food" several metres down in the flowing water. For the first 2-4 days the Arctic char is often not very aggressive in his behaviour, but any fish which gets a spinner or spoon-bait served in front of his nose may well be enticed to the hook. In some waters a spinner with silvery and red dots may be the only thing. In others, the spinner should preferably have a green body. There are also places where a combination of colours such as red, yellow and black is the most successful. Amongst other things, it depends on the colour, visibility and food conditions in the water. For this reason there is nothing to be done but try out different hardware from the tackle box and find out the local favourites yourself. Having said that, the most important thing is to be able to fish slowly and precisely with a spinner or spoon-bait so that the artificial bait works where the Arctic char are found: at the edge of currents and backwaters - and slightly off the bottom. It is advantageous to take small breaks during the spinning in, known as spin/stop pauses, so that the spoon-bait or spinner is able to stop in the water and then sink towards the bottom. That is a delicacy which even a fussy Arctic char can rarely resist - and, snap! Once you have got a fish, the spinning-in speed has been incorporated and you have found the right spinner and a good place, there are not many refinements beyond that in fishing! Once the first fish has been landed you will generally have a good impression of where the Arctic char prefer to stay in the river. If it is a large pool or calm water along the edge of a current, you can collect several fish within a small area. Such places should naturally always be reconnoitred extra thoroughly. In certain periods the Arctic char in the river will be easily scared, particularly when the water level is low and the fish have remained in the same place for some time. The fishing can then come to an abrupt end when you have landed the first fish, even if you can see that there are more fish there. Instead you should make a mental note of the place and possibly come back later the same day or the next day. The fish will then be guaranteed to bite again. Spinning in lakes Certain rivers are linked to lakes to which the Arctic char migrate to spawn. Other lakes, which do not have access to the sea, have a stock of permanent fish, as mentioned previously, which are also exciting to outwit. These char may not be quite so big, but then it is not always size that matters but the pleasure of the catch. And the fishing can be at least as challenging and enthralling; for example, in the lakes it is perfectly normal to see Arctic char coming swishing up in the wake of the spinner or spoon-bait at close quarters. Your heart will be racing, and if the fish is not hooked that time, perhaps it will be duped with the next cast if you change spinner or spoon-bait or perhaps try a different colour or weight. In clear lakes the Arctic char are often found in areas of still water, in bays and inlets, and quite often at the edge where the still water meets a gentle current, or where the wind is rippling the surface. If the lake has a marked change in depth, that is a definite place to find Arctic char. In such places it is not unusual to find the water black with fish at the border between the shallow and deep water. Then you need to have the brake adjusted correctly and hold your tongue! The same is true of tips of spits and points of deep water near land. If the rivers which run into the lake are small, try these areas. Many fish like to stay here, in the water which is rich in oxygen, and often it is precisely in such a place that Arctic char are served up. If you are fishing in small, clear lakes and want to cover a slope or slightly deeper water, the spinner or spoon-bait should preferably go down far enough for the artificial bait to just skim the bottom. The rod may need to be held vertical so that it points up into the air whilst spinning in, meanwhile jerking the point of the rod slightly. Small, lively spoon-baits of 6-12 grams are ideal for lake fishing, since they can be spun deep and it is easy to induce marked movements. The same applies to spinners used for river fishing, but they probably need to be in larger sizes for lake fishing (see page 5). And don't forget lead-head spinners such as the Mrrum spinner and the French Mepps lead-head spinners in weights of up to 12 grams which, in some places, reign supreme because their design means that the blade of the spinner rotates all the time, even when making spin/stop pauses during spinning in. Fly fishing for Arctic char in seas and rivers Fly fishing in Greenland is practised either in cloudy melt-water rivers
or clear rivers and lakes. In unclear rivers you really have to work for
each individual fish. Even with a sink line and large, bushy, preferably
colourful flies the fly fisherman will catch only 1 fish for every 10 landed
by the spinning angler. Fly fishing in such waters is therefore not particularly
to be recommended for those who just want to catch fish continuously - but
it can be done if you are patient and persistent enough. Mountain hiking and fishing Mountain hiking and Arctic char fishing is an excellent combination. And in only a few places in the world can you experience the Arctic environment as close at hand as in Greenland, where virtually virgin waters with large, old fish are spread out across the landscape. Rivers rumble and streams effervesce in remote valleys where rugged mountain tops frame the splendours. The silence is almost alarming and the air tastes strangely dry, but also pure and clean. However, before a fishing trip can be a success it must be planned thoroughly to ensure, amongst other things, that there are fish in the waters which you plan to visit. And when planning your mountain fishing trip DO REMEMBER the migration of the Arctic char! In certain rivers they do not migrate upstream after going to feed in the sea until late, and there is nothing worse than getting to the water which you expect to be full of fish - and finding not a single one! So always contact regional or local tourist offices and get information on fishing waters and good areas for mountain hiking in good time before planning the trip. The local tourist offices can help you with information and give good tips on where, when and how best to put the trip together. In recent years Greenland Tourism a/s has drawn up a number of hiking maps which may be of great assistance in your planning. With these maps in your hand it will be much easier to organise your hiking trip and prepare a precise schedule. There are hiking maps covering Narsarsuaq, Narsaq, Qaqortoq, Alluitsup Paa and Ivittuut. In 1996 maps of Ammassalik, Sisimiut, Ilulissat and Nanortalik were published. In addition, there are a number of older maps and a number of new ones in preparation that can be ordered from local tourist offices, which also provide information on any Arctic char waters, routes and other circumstances which it is useful to know about when planning a trip. However, compared with other mountainous areas in Scandinavia, Greenland's are some of the most uncharted - and this must be taken into account in your plans. For example, make sure you do not underestimate the enormous distances which exist in Greenland and which often "shrink" on a map, particularly if the scale is 1: 250 000. If the map is used correctly you can track down from home the more remote lakes and rivers which are practically untouched and seldom visited by the locals. It may be that you have to take a long trip by boat, air or on foot - but what does it matter if you have a fishing adventure to beat them all? Often you can find paths by looking for place names on the map. Many names have a meaning, for example Equalit means Arctic char and Kapisilit salmon, whilst Quinqua means a river at the back of a fjord. In this way the place names can tell you a lot about the locality. Spinning for Arctic char on the coast In the first part of the season from mid-July until the fish migrate back to the rivers you can experience exciting fishing for Arctic char at river mouths, along the coast and at the bottom of the fjords - especially in the period around rising water. The fishing concerned is, first and foremost, spinning with spoon-bait. This fishing is similar in principle to Scandinavian coastal fishing for sea trout, but fly fishermen can also join in if their technique is correct. Experience has shown that the Arctic char seldom migrate particularly far from their birth river - most are found in the neighbouring area. Often the migration of the Arctic char almost consistently follows the coast and, therefore, it can often pay to arrange the fishing at points and spits where the fish come close to land because of favourable current and feeding conditions. Investigate points, spits and reefs at river mouths particularly efficiently by wave-form casting in the freshwater leaving the river. It is in the last half of the period of rising water in particular that the fishing takes place, and often in the very shallow water. Often it can pay to wait for the fish to come past and reveal themselves at the surface - then it is just a matter of getting going with your tackle. Areas with seaweed, mussel and stone reefs which break the surface, and marked stone formations at the mouths of rivers, should be investigated particularly thoroughly. The Arctic char tend to gather in shoals - often the first couple of castings can be fruitless, but then things suddenly start to happen. Fish after fish is enticed out. When spinning you have to experiment with different kinds of artificial bait and different colour combinations and, as far a possible, use different spinning-in speeds so that the spoon looks ill in the water and entices the fish. Suddenly a fish bites; you have found the right formula, the right spoon or a good place. Early in the season the Arctic char are generally starved and prefer slightly larger mouthfuls which imitate, say, capelin and sandeel. In July/August, when the Arctic char have gradually got into better condition, they become more fussy and sometimes only go after small delicacies such as prawns or small crustaceans. All-round equipment used for river fishing is excellently suited to coastal fishing for Arctic char but, at times, a rod of 8-9 feet (240-270 cm) is necessary in order to get a sufficiently long cast and in order to be able to control the artificial bait properly because of waves or wind on land and along the coast. Artificial bait with a lively movement that can go high in the water even with slow spinning-in is required. Amongst the best spoon-baits are: Jensen Tobis, Flipper, Møresilda, Filur, Toby, Jensen Pink, Trumf and similar lean and "scuttling" types in weight categories from 3-12 grams. Spinners must also be used busily; for example, Vibrax size 1-3, Mepps Aglia and Black Fury 1-3, Panter 7 grams, Jensen Insect 7 grams, the Mrrum spinner and Droppen 3-12 grams, as well as the others used for river and lake fishing. It is not necessary to bring along waders in your luggage. They are heavy, impractical and take up a lot of room. Coastal fly fishing for Arctic char Coastal fly fishing is developing at breakneck speed - including in Greenland, although it must be said that it is a sport reserved for specialists and connoisseurs. However, if you are reasonably well-trained in fly tackle, are able to achieve reasonable casting lengths and know the ground rules of fly fishing, it is an uncommonly fascinating sport in beautiful and alluring coastal scenery when the Arctic char are in the sea feeding themselves up. The best fishing is not generally experienced until July at the river mouths, when the water is rising. At this time the Arctic char are messing about in the freshwater part of the river and are often fit for a fight. Good standard equipment for coastal fly fishing consists of a rod 2.40-3.60 metres (8-12 feet) in length of AFTM class 6-7, 8-9. In principle, any fly reel can be used provided it is resistant to saltwater, has a proper brake and can hold at least 80 metres of back line (Dacron) as well as the fly line. Use of floating line, WF or shooting head and a 2.5-3 metre snell is most widespread. Good flies which can be recommended include: Mickey Finn, Stickleback, Black Palmer, Tobis, Blue Dun, Blue Dun Grizzly, Zulu Palmer, prawn and crayfish imitations and streamers which resemble capelin or sticklebacks, but also bushy flies which behave wildly in the water are now turning up trumps. Investigate points, spits and reefs in the vicinity of river mouths particularly efficiently. Areas with mussel, stone reefs which break the surface of the water and marked stone formations must be investigated particularly thoroughly. The fishing is best in rising water, and the last part of the tidal water rise in particular offers the best fishing because the Arctic char are then within casting distance and are pottering about looking for food in the very shallow water. Early on in the season - in June and July - the fly is taken in in long, relatively rapid movements with small breaks, so the "feather" occasionally gets to skim the bottom. Later in the season it can often be advantageous to change from streamers which, after all, are supposed to resemble fish fry, to small hackle flies which resemble prawns, small crustaceans, sticklebacks, large beach fleas or winkles. Colour-trailing flies in shocking colours such as red-orange, ambulance red and yellow are particularly productive - they often make the Arctic char see red! It is difficult to be specific about the best time to fish, but evening and morning fishing produce particularly good catches. At these times the Arctic char are very close to land and you can actually hear splashes and see "rings" from fish moving around in the very shallow water. However, the very best time is in the last half of the period around rising water. In this part of the tidal water period the Arctic char are often in high spirits. This is when fly fishermen have the best opportunities to experience a taut line with a wild fish hunting out prawns, beach fleas or some other little delicacy - and the fly at the end of the snell. Fishing for Arctic char from a dinghy When fishing from a dinghy moving over reefs you have a splendid opportunity to investigate the coast from the sea. It is an effective form of fishing when the Arctic char are in the sea in order to feed, since you can fish the coastal sections and estuaries whilst moving in on the productive places at the back of the fjord where the Arctic char are hunting for food. You cast in the direction in which the boat is going, and naturally compensation must be made for this when spinning in. When you find a good place you can cast anchor and cast in wave-forms across the productive area. Investigate slopes near the mouths of rivers and stone formations where shallow and deep water meet in particular. The same spoon-bait is used for the fishing as is used for spinning in rivers, lakes and on the coast. Trolling for Arctic char "Trolling spoon-bait" after the boat, or surface trolling as this type of fishing is also called, is an effective form of fishing when the Arctic char are looking for food in saltwater. Instead of casting out and spinning in 300 times, it is easier to drag spoon-bait 20-40 metres behind the dinghy whilst sailing at a walking pace. You can fish excellently with 2-4 rods at once - 1 or 2 on each side of the boat, each with its own spoon-bait, e.g. a 7-18 grams Toby bait, a Tasmanian Devil or a black and grey Rapala wobbler of 7-9 cm, a small Nils Master wobbler or perhaps a spinner. In reality, the purpose of the spoon-bait and spinners is the same as those used for coastal fishing. The same applies to the rod, reel and line. The spoon-bait and wobblers are cast 20-40 metres behind the boat. Different spoon-baits and spinners are tried out whilst zigzagging to and fro along the coast. Many kilometres of inviting coastline can quickly be investigated. Whilst fishing it is important to ensure that the artificial bait is moving "correctly" in the wake of the boat. Look at the tip of the rod. If it nods, the spoon-bait, spinner or wobbler is moving correctly; but if the tip of the rod is still, the artificial bait may have caught in growth or seaweed, which needs to be removed from the treble hook. If you want to fish more efficiently, cover a wider area and make a wider spread of the artificial baits behind the boat, fishing with a planer board is the right way to do it. There are various designs of planer board but, in principle, it is like a plough which extends 20-50 metres out to the side and sails parallel to the boat. It is very common to fish with two planer boards, one on each side of the boat. The planer board is fixed to a mast which projects a couple of metres above the boat because the line connected to the planer board must be kept free of the water. Once the planer board has been put out, the number of metres of line on the reel by which you want the artificial bait to fish behind the boat are cast. The fishing line from the reel and rod is then jammed in a line clip and placed on the planer board line. As soon as you give line on the reel the line clip will slide out towards the planer board line and, in this neat way, you can decide yourself how far away from the boat the line release should be and, thus, also where the artificial bait is to fish. The brake on the reel is then adjusted - it must not be too firm, but must be taut enough for the line not to be drawn off the reel because of the water pressure. It is a good idea to leave the "grumbler" on the reel on. It is a good bite notifier if you are not paying attention yourself in the fraction of a second when the fish bites. The rod is placed in a rest and the line tensioned. The rest of the rods are made ready for fishing in the same way, since there is nothing to stop you fishing with several line releases on the planer board line at the same time. In fact, that's the idea! Now it is just a matter of investigating the starved Arctic char whilst sailing along the coast at a walking pace. Suddenly the rod bends - a Arctic char has fallen into the trap. The Arctic char which has been hooked will generally go straight up to the surface. So you should follow it nicely first if it is not to abscond in a wild escape. It varies from fish to fish. Before the Arctic char is landed the deck needs to be cleared of tackle so that nothing is in the way. When the fish approaches the boat it will often try one more escape - a last desperate attempt to slip back to freedom. Put gentle pressure on the fish and let it circle around alongside the boat until it has run off the worst of it. Then steer it into the mesh of the landing net head first and lift the fellow on board. A large landing net is the most certain landing tool. The frame must have a diameter of at least a metre and the net sack must be deep. Always clean the first Arctic char of the day straight away and study its stomach contents. This will be some indication of what the Arctic char is eating and which tactics and artificial bait you should choose. Ice-fishing for Arctic char Fishing through ice for Arctic char is an almost unresearched method of catching these exciting fish whilst they are overwintering in Greenlandic lakes which do not freeze to the bottom. It is a type of fishing which has become very widespread in northern Scandinavia and Canada, but which has not spread with the same enthusiasm in Greenland. A special rod known as a pimple rod is used for the fishing, consisting of a short blade half a metre in length which has a handle and a small reel fitted. If you want to try out this type of fishing you should obtain the tackle whilst at home since it is not sold in Greenland. However, you can also get by with spinner tackle if necessary - the only thing you have to change is the line, which should be no thicker than 0.20 mm. There are a large number of jigs in various designs and colours of 2-12 grams on the market which are suitable for the fishing. Most ice-fishing jibs are equipped with a small snell across the hook which can be baited with, say, Power Bait, a prawn or possibly salmon eggs of the type which can be bought in a tin. Whichever type of bait is chosen, it is first a matter of finding the Arctic char and luring them to the hook. Arctic char are often found close to the deepest sections of the lake, just outside inlets into the lake or in the vicinity of underground springs. Often you have to try various places before tracking down the fish - but once you have found one, there are generally others in the vicinity. In addition to the ice-fishing tackle you will need an ice drill. In places where you cannot hire an ice drill you will have to take one along. Contact the regional or local tourist offices for more information. Returning fish There is no reason to destroy more Arctic char than you want to eat yourself. It is an unwritten rule which every angler visiting Greenland should bear in mind. Arctic char which are returned to the water without being frightened, without wounds and without too much injury survive - for the most part. However, it is important that the fish are handled delicately, not least during landing and the hook releasing operation, otherwise their chances will be poor. During the fight the concentration of lactic acid in the fish's blood increases considerably - often this can be seen in the fish after it has been landed, e.g. through the escape of blood at the fins and in the head region. Fish in lactic acid shock do not always survive, particularly so if you just dump the fish in the water. Instead you should give the fish "artificial respiration". This is easy to do and is based on holding the head of the Arctic char up towards the current so that fresh water runs through the gills. If the water is still, move the fish gently to and fro in the water whilst holding it carefully under the belly and tail. Only when the gills are pumping regularly again should you let go of the fish. If the fish is first given artificial respiration in this way, it means in most cases that the Arctic char will regain its strength and survive. During the landing take care that the protective layer of slime on the fish is not damaged when the fish is landed, and never hold fish which are to be returned to the water in the eye socket - that is cruelty to animals. Once you have landed the fish which you want to have for your evening meal in your lap, it can be better to fish with a barbless hook. These hooks themselves make the fishing more exciting since you cannot allow yourself to make a mistake or the fish will break loose. Barbless hooks can be removed from the fish's mouth with a quick pull, whilst general hooks require the use of a hook releaser. Plan your Arctic char adventure thoroughly from home If you have very special wishes concerning visiting far-off waters which are a long way from a town or village, you may choose to be flown out to the fishing place by Greenlandair. It is an excellent way of having a proper fishing adventure if there are a few of you travelling together. Then the price is reasonable. However, such fishing expeditions should be planned in the minutest detail from home. Amongst other things, you must obtain the necessary permits and a helicopter or aircraft must be booked in good time. If you only have limited time available (1-2 weeks) it is recommended that you take part in one of the package tours which are offered by several travel agencies. This not only saves a lot of planning time, but you also know what to expect before you set off, since it has generally been tried and tested and is of certain quality. SEA FISHING Large halibut, terrifying catfish, splendid cod in the 10-15 kg class,
rosefish with large shining eyes and a number of other exciting species
in unpolluted Arctic waters make Greenland an eldorado for sea-anglers. Sea-fishing tackle By far the majority of angling in the sea off Greenland takes place with a jig of 150-400 grams. It is important to have strong tackle: 20-50 pound rods and multiplier reels such as Ambassadeur 10 000, Penn or Shimano reels of the same size, which can hold at least 200 metres of 0.60 mm nylon line. The above type of reel is robust and must be equipped with brakes that are in tiptop condition, because the brake on the reel must never thrash or function irregularly when exposed to even traction. If this is the case, the brake disks should be replaced or the reel overhauled. The sea-fishing line must be either 0.50-0.60 mm nylon line or 30-70 pound Dacron, or spun line as it is also known - or the new Kevlar line is an even better choice. The advantage of the spun line and Kevlar line is that it is hardly elastic at all. Even when fishing in a depth of 150 metres you have as much "fingertip feeling" with the jig in the water as if it were just under the keel. Nylon line, on the other hand, is elastic and actually gives a lot - 20-50%. For this reason it is difficult to feel the cautious nips when fishing in depths of over 50 metres. Some sea-anglers prefer to use fully drawn steel wire line, but this is only necessary in depths of over 150-200 metres. The wire is very thin in relation to its strength and is therefore barely caught by the current. Moreover, it is entirely inelastic and does not give an inch, so you always have good contact with the bait at the end of the line. The problem with steel wire is simply that it has a tendency to kink - and, if it does, the wire breaks very easily. Whichever type of line you prefer, take along extra line, e.g. 300-500 metres, from home so that the line on the reel can be replaced if necessary. Nylon line is not sold everywhere in Greenland and it can be difficult to get precisely the line thickness you are looking for. Most marine fish off Greenland are not particularly fussy about what is on the hook, but silver and colour-radiating jigs rarely fail. Jigs are sold in many places locally, but they are relatively expensive and can easily cost DKK 90-120 each. And although a jig is fairly heavy in your luggage, expect to lose a couple of jigs on each day trip. It is therefore recommended that you take a good arsenal of jigs of 100-400 grams with you to cover the fishing you may encounter. It is rare to need a jig of over 300 grams and in most fjords there are no problems "holding" the bottom with a 200 gram jig and knowing you are fishing there. Only in the most powerful period of tidal change will you need a jig of over 300 grams in order to fish at the bottom, where many predatory fish tend to stay when the current is at its strongest. It is always a good idea to change the hook on the purchased jigs for treble hooks of size 6-8/O. These hooks are solid and can cope with harder stresses and that is useful, particularly when a halibut is in your sights. Remember hangers in your tackle box - and use them well. In Greenland hangers can be used for most sea fishing - with or without bait. Norske gummimak, Red Gill, lyskroge, Eddystone Eel and the like are excellent and provide an extra chance of success but, since in Greenlandic waters really big fish are possible, you should not fish with more than one or, at most, two hangers. If a double cod of 2 times 10 kg is hooked, such a dynamic duo is more than difficult to get to the surface even for the most experienced sea angler. Many people choose to fish with a baited hanger. A strip of sea scorpion, cod or other fish is placed on the hook so that the exposed meat moves freely in the current after the jig. A strip of meat of 5-15 centimetres is cut out of the fish used for bait. The strips must be pointed and thicker at one end than the other so that the piece of bait looks almost like a pennant. The thick end of the bait is placed firmly in the treble hook of the jig. The strip of fish will dangle in the water like a tail and attract fish to the jig, not only through its busy movement in the current, but also through its aroma. This method of fishing is very widespread and is a well-known trick used frequently by local snell and handline anglers. A rod belt is not necessary but it is still good to have one with you in your luggage in case a 100 kg halibut is on the warpath. Sea-fishing at depths of around 40-80 metres can be demanding and heavy and here it can be convenient to use a rod belt - not least, because the groin gets rather sore after a few hours' fishing. A tackle box is essential for the sea angler. Firstly, it gives you a secure place to keep your jigs, hangers, swivels, line spools, pliers, knife and other bits and pieces. Secondly, you can find what you need in a flash. On major fishing expeditions at sea there is always a tendency for things to disappear just when you need them. If tackle and bits and pieces have a permanent place in a box they are easier to find - at least in theory! Remember warm clothing. The weather in Greenland can change a great deal and very rapidly, not least at sea: from summer and sunshine to winter weather in less than an hour! On some summer days you can fish in short sleeves up to midday, but then suddenly in the afternoon it becomes so bitingly cold that you have to put on a jacket, thermal clothes and a coat. On your top half it is best to wear several layers of thin clothing rather than a thick sweater since the air between the layers provides insulation. Thermal clothing and fibre fleece are ideal for the purpose. No only do they take up no more room than ordinary clothes in your luggage, but they also keep you warm much better. Wool or cotton sweaters have the same insulating properties. In addition to two or three layers of clothing underneath it is usually worth having rainwear with you, firstly because it is wind-tight and watertight and, secondly, because it doesn't matter if you get dirt or fish slime on your clothing. Often the sea-angler will need to have one or two layers under his fishing trousers, e.g. long johns and possibly thermal trousers. If it is windy or feels raw cold, it is good to have a wind-tight and watertight set of overtrousers to hand, which both provide insulation and also seal your body away from the cold. Fingers can get cold and there is practically nothing worse for stopping you concentrating on the fishing. Neoprene gloves are a good choice and keep in the heat even if they get wet. Woollen gloves are an excellent alternative. Don't forget a cap or hat and scarf. When the wind is coming directly from the Inland Ice it is cold about the ears. Warm footwear is essential. Wellington boots are the worst thing imaginable because they provide absolutely no insulation. The ideal footwear is waterproof leather boots which are a couple of sizes too big, leaving room for one or two pairs of thermal or woollen socks. Jig fishing There are no refinements in Greenlandic jig fishing. Once the jig has reached the bottom, small nodding movements are made with the tip of the rod. There is no justification for big arm movements at depths of 30-50 metres. It is better for the jig to make small jumps and be able to attract and sparkle in the water. Now and again reel in a couple of metres so that the jig is lifted a couple of metres off the floor - and then let it fall to the floor. In depths of over 50 metres somewhat more powerful jig movements may be made to compensate for the elasticity of the line. One of the best ways of controlling jig fishing is by using what is known as the "thumb method". This is a very effective way of operating the jig tackle which can be learned quickly: when the jig has reached the bottom, do not switch on the multiplier reel. Instead place the thumb of your right hand on the reel so that it is blocked, making it impossible for the line to run off the reel. Now make the characteristic jig movements with the rod. Now and again release the pressure of your thumb on the spool so that the line is released and the jig moves towards the bottom. Continue jigging using the same formula for a while. When there is so much line out in the water, because of the operation of the boat and the current resistance, that you have poor contact with the jig, reel the line onto the spool and start again. Coarse fishing with natural bait Coarse fishing with natural bait is particularly effective if you want to catch certain fish at the bottom - those which first and foremost use their sense of smell to find the bait. In other words, the essence of this fishing is for the fish to sniff his way to the spoils which lie exposed on a hook at the bottom. Many people choose to fish with a baited jig, but if you are going for, say, catfish, bottom fishing with natural bait may be a bit more fruitful. The catfish is by nature a demersal or bottom fish which sniffs its way to the bait and cautiously considers whether or not it is edible. Mussels are one of the items very high on the catfish's list of favourite foods and are a supreme bait. If you want to fish with mussels you can collect them at low water at the bottom of the fjords or in harbours - and it is rarely a problem collecting enough for a day's fishing in an hour to an hour and a half. However, the problem can be putting the mussel bait on the hook, because the soft meat does not sit well on the hook shaft and easily comes off. To prevent this happening and to prepare a really good treat for the catfish it is a good idea to bring a fine-mesh hair net or bandage net from home. Hair nets can be bought in most draper's shops. The alternative is fine-mesh bandage net, which is sold by most pharmacies. Open 4-8 mussels, take out the flesh from inside and pack the sticky mass into the hair net or bandage net, which is baited onto a hook of size 3/O-4/O. You do not need large pieces of bait because the catfish prefers small mouthfuls about the size of a walnut. You can also use 5-15 cm long pointed strips of fish for the fishing, e.g. sea scorpion, cod or fjord cod, attached to the hook shaft in one or two places. The thick end must be on the hook so that approximately half the bait extends across the point of the hook and moves like a tail in the water. Coarse fishing from a moving boat is the most widespread method for covering large areas, whilst fishing from an anchored boat is practised more rarely. You can use the standard equipment used for jig fishing for coarse fishing too. As with traditional jig fishing, it is a matter of getting the snell and the natural bait to work on the bottom, and it must do so all the time. As soon as the snell has been cast down to the bottom the line is tensioned so that the lead at the end of the snell drags across the bottom. Now and again line is given by the reel since the current and the moving boat gradually lift the snell and bait up in the water. Now and then you will also need to reel line onto the reel because the boat moves over a slope or peak. Most fish are cautious when biting. After the first careful nip has been noted, give the fish time to swallow the bait. Only when it takes line and swims away with the spoils in its mouth is the rod lifted backwards in a controlled counter-bite. The most widespread snell used for fishing from a moving boat is something like a paternoster snell, but this can be improved if you bind it. Here the lead weight at the bottom of the snell has been replaced with a jig from which the hook has been removed. In its place, fit a 10-15 cm line snell which goes out to the baited hook. During fishing the snell should clip the bottom and you must not make too big arm movements - rather the contrary. Many fish are timid, e.g. the catfish, and taste the bait first before swallowing the mouthful on the hook. Give the fish time and do not be too keen when the first nip is taken. Instead, keep cool and let the fish have a little time before giving a rapid but controlled counter-tug so that the hook gets a hold in the fish's mouth. Gliding tackle is used for fishing from an anchored boat. The tackle differs from the paternoster snell in that the fish can take the bait without noticing resistance from the lead weight. When a fish tugs cautiously on the bait, the lead weight remains lying on the bottom and the fish does not feel any resistance when lifting the bait on the hook up from the bottom. Tiring out and landing the fish Once the fish has been caught and firmly hooked, it needs an opportunity to work off its rage. Keep a taut line all the time and start "pumping" the fish towards the surface. Lift up the rod in an even movement so that the unknown is lifted up out of the deep and then reel in line whilst lowering the rod. Continue with this pumping action but be ready to give line and adjust the reel brake if the fish resists. It is necessary to master this method in order to be able to land large fish. It is also a good method for getting even small duellists up from deep water, rather than using too much arm strength getting the fish up on the reel. Fish species for the sea angler The halibut, or Nataarnaq as it is known in Greenlandic, is considered by anglers to be the king of the North Atlantic and is a very formidable fish to get on your hook. Quite definitely the preferred bite for the sea angler in Greenland! Halibut may be caught all along the west coast, but are particularly widespread in the areas around the Paamiut bank near Sisimiut and in Disko Bay. It is a greedy predatory fish and is one of those fish which can move freely in different layers of water because it has a swim bladder. Although the halibut is greedy, it is a difficult fish to dupe since it is only active for limited periods of the day. This is often in the period around rising water. If you fish out at sea, for example, the tidal water may be very significant for the resulting catch. Moreover, experience shows that the best fishing is found where the current stands still between steep narrow fjords. When the tidal water current is at its highest the halibut often seeks shelter on the bottom. At this point in time it doesn't particularly want to bite, but is does. For most anglers fishing for halibut in Greenland means fish from 10-60 kilos. However, larger fish of the species are regularly landed by hook and line anglers on the west coast and occasionally also turn up in the nets of trawlers. Here the fish can be of different proportions, and monster halibut of around 4 metres in length weighing 100-300 kilos are landed every year. However, as a rule you will find large "flounders" of over 100 kilos further out at sea - often on slopes and close to the top of the large fishing banks off south-west and central Greenland. The halibut is unusually slow-growing, although it can reach an impressive size. It has emerged that the fish does not become sexually mature until 10-15 years old, when it is around a metre in length and weighs around 10-15 kilos. Spawning takes place in 300-1000 metres of water, from December to May. After hatching the eggs rise up towards the surface and the young live pelagically at a depth of around 100 metres. Immediately after spawning the halibut migrates to shallower waters in order to feed on the large stocks of food closer to the coast. Here it eats the outsize flatfish, cod, rough dab, fjord cod (uvak), salmon - and it is also keen on Arctic char. Halibut of 10-50 kilos often migrate right into the bottom of the fjords. And from mid-June to October fish of the size stated above have a tendency to stay on slopes near freshwater outlets where there are deposits of sand or gravel. If you are one of the lucky ones in the right place at the right time, you may suddenly see the outline of a large flatfish about 10 metres below the keel as it glides elegantly and gracefully across the light sand or gravel floor. Several local line anglers can tell you how they have seen halibut the size of a coffee table swarming around at low water whilst the Arctic char almost jump out of the water in fright to save themselves. If you see a fish over the bottom, hold on tight to your tackle, pray to God and keep your powder dry! Jig fishing and coarse fishing, or a combination of the two, from moving boats across the productive places is the way to catch halibut. A baited jig is used a lot for this fishing by local handline and snell anglers, and is an effective method because the strip of fish on the treble hook of the jig makes the movement of the jig more lively and spreads a scent in the water. The halibut is curious, and the combination of the shining jig and the pleasantly smelling strip of meat which attracts him in the water can get this big eater to follow the jig right up to a few metres below the boat before it suddenly comes in for its share. It is often advantageous to choose a jig of 200-350 grams which has a large bearing surface and therefore works in a lively way in the current. Experience has also shown that it can pay to let the jig work from the bottom up to mid-water, after which you cast the jig down to the bottom again to repeat the process. This is because the halibut is of a curious nature and is often attracted by anything which looks different in the water. You can jig-fish optimally by fitting a hanger, size 1/O-3/O, approx. half a metre above the jig, which is baited with a strip of fish of 5-8 cm. The best bait for this purpose is Arctic char, say the Greenlanders, but a sea scorpion tail or a strip of meat from cod or fjord cod can also be used to excellent effect. The catfish in Greenland can be big. Three types are found in Greenland, these being the blue catfish (Anarhicius denticulatus), the striped catfish (Anarhicius lupus) and the spotted catfish (Anarhicius minor). Many people think that the catfish is a greedy and irascible predatory fish which hunts without inhibition. This is entirely wrong. The catfish is a very cautious fish which prefers to live on mussels, crayfish and other shellfish, such as its frightening jaws were created to crunch. And if the catfish should break a tooth when biting its way through a shellfish it doesn't matter, because the fish changes its teeth every year. Catfish grow very slowly in the Arctic - the big catfish around a metre in length are thought to be around 20 years old. Special coarse fishing with natural bait and fishing with a baited jig produces the most fish. In the latter case you fish the baited jig with very slow and soft jig movements just above the bottom. However cautiously the catfish may bite, it is so wild and irascible when caught as to make the rod bend and flop, and is a tough opponent to get into a dual with. And although the fish cannot be considered a fast swimmer, it always fights bravely for every centimetre of line. Look out for the catfish's big teeth. They can be sharp as needles, so it can bite through leather gloves and boots as easily as anything. Always use long-nosed pliers when loosening the hook from the teeth. The blue catfish may be up to 35-40 kilos and is the largest of the catfish species. It is very much a deep sea fish which often prefers depths of over 100 to 600 metres and is caught only very rarely by anglers. It is generally dark blue in colour with unclear spots. The meat is fairly watery and it is not a popular fish to eat amongst Greenlanders. The Atlantic (striped) catfish is the most widespread and is found at the foot of cliffs, where it lives a lonely life finding food. Otherwise, most of the time it seeks shelter in cracks and crevices on the bottom. It can grow to 125 cm and 25 kilos and is best enticed using natural bait, but is also often caught with a jig and hanger - with or without bait. In Greenlandic the Atlantic catfish is known as Qeeraaraq and the fish differs from the other species of catfish in that it lives in shallower waters, preferably near rocks. The spotted catfish, or Qeeraq Milattoq as it is called in Greenlandic, can grow big. Fish of 120-140 cm and 30-35 kilos are regularly landed by hook and line anglers. It is widespread in Greenlandic waters to the north of Upernavik and Ammassalik. The world record for a spotted catfish is also held in Greenland. A fish of 23.35 kilos was landed with a rod and line near Sisimiut in the 1980s. This record has not yet been broken. The spotted catfish prefers to stay on mussel-bottoms or a slightly soft bottom with some boulders. It is characteristically a bottom fish which may be found at depths of 25-600 metres, but which is generally found at 100-150 metres where it "vacuums" the bottom of muscles, crayfish and sea urchins. The cod, which is called Saarullik in Greenlandic, is found in copious quantities in certain places and can grow to be colossal in Greenlandic waters. Every year cod of up to 20-30 kg are landed and for the sea angler a fish of this calibre is something of a challenge to beat, for Greenlandic cod always fight to the last - regardless of size. Unfortunately, cod fishing in Greenland has gradually declined in recent years and in certain areas the fun duellist is in short supply, but there are still a large number of exciting and almost virgin areas with large cod, e.g. in the sea and fjord areas of central Greenland around Sisimiut and further north. Most of the time the cod stay at the bottom, but in Greenland it is not uncommon for this popular angler's fish to be found in free bodies of water. Here cod are generally found in plentiful numbers at the edges of shoals of feed fish and around well-ventilated knolls in particular. As soon as the capelin move into the Greenlandic fjords to spawn in the summer, cod follow in their wake. And so long as capelin are in the neighbouring layer, cod can be found in the shallower water, i.e. at 20-80 metres. In sheltered waters and in the fjords cod are found in greatest numbers on and near knolls and peaks in 40-80 metres of water, so you need to keep an eye open with the echo-sounder and see where fish are shown. Cod fishing in sheltered waters generally goes on until the first period of real frost, after which the cod seek out deeper water. The fish often spend the winter at depths of 150-200 metres or lower. Morning and evening fishing and fishing in the period around rising water is generally the most lucrative. This is partly due to the fact that the feed fish shoals are split and assembled at these times and so the cod has optimal hunting opportunities. And if you can track down peaks, current places with good water ventilation and plenty of feed fish under the keel, cod are often within casting distance. The sea areas and fjord systems are large and the fishing points numerous, and if you want to experience good cod fishing you need local knowledge. Even with local knowledge however, it can be a problem finding cod of a good size on some days. Jig fishing is the most widespread method where cod are concerned. A baited jig and baited hanger are equally effective weapons if you want to catch this formidable fighter. Rosefish taste wonderful and are something of an Arctic speciality. There are three species of rosefish in Greenland and the largest of the species, Sebastes marinus, can be up to 1 metre long and weigh up to 10-15 kilos. Biologists reckon that fish of this calibre are around 60 years old, but there are not many of them. Most of the rosefish caught have an average size of one and a half kilos, but regardless of the size it is always an unusually attractive fish which you cannot help being taken with. Rosefish are characteristically demersal fish, liking to stay at or near the bottom. The largest rosefish are generally caught in the deep water around 80-200 metres and it has also emerged that the fish migrate a long way up and down the watercourses in the course of a day. However, there are exceptions and it has emerged that even large rosefish now and then like to stay in water of 20-50 metres - in very special places. Rosefish feed live young. The rosefish is a perch and resembles this member of its family in shape; it has the same sharp gill cover and pointed spike. Be careful when taking the fish off the hook because you could cut or prick yourself on the pointed spike and sharp gill cover. Rosefish live primarily on crustaceans, molluscs or prawns and are caught by jig and hanger. However, the hangers are the fish's favourite - especially coloured and lively ones. It can be difficult to feel the rosefish's cautious nip when fishing in a depth of 100 metres or more. But as soon as you notice a cautious tug on the line it is bound to be rosefish at play. However, wait a little while before reeling in the jig and snell and let the tackle stay in the water. In a short time it can be "full house" and every single hook can be decorated with its own fish. When the rosefish is revealed from the deep it is not uncommon for it to get decompression sickness because of the pressure change. The eyes are practically on sticks and the stomach hangs out of the mouth of the fine red-orange fish. For this reason, rosefish caught in deep water cannot be replaced because of decompression sickness. Be careful when lifting the rosefish on board because it easily flops off the hooks. Fjord cod (Arctic cod), or uvak as it is known in Greenlandic, is found in large numbers in virtually all Greenlandic waters. The fjord cod looks a bit like the cod in appearance, but this is where the similarity ends because it does not fight anywhere near as well as real cod. Neither does it get anywhere near as big - seldom over 3-4 kilos. It is easy to distinguish between the two fish because the fjord cod is plumper in appearance and the fins are smaller and rounded compared with those of the cod. The fjord cod also has a darker colour and may have reddish glints in some places. In addition, it has a darker lateral line than the cod. Fjord cod are generally found at all depths but occur in greatest numbers at depths of down to 80 metres. In some places the number of fjord cod is so overwhelming that they represent a real problem for anglers. Fjord cod can bite incessantly, and if there are other predatory fish in the area the greedy fjord cod gives them no chance of getting to the jig or the natural bait first. The Greenland halibut may be confused with an ordinary halibut, but rarely grows to more than 1 metre and 10-15 kilos. The Greenland halibut also has a more grey-blue colour - on both sides - and is slimmer and more symmetrical in form than its big brother, the halibut. It can also be distinguished from the halibut by its even lateral line above the pectoral fin, placing the left eye just in front of the dorsal fin. The Greenland halibut is a characteristic Arctic fish and is often met pelagically in free bodies of water where the biologists assume it swims across the water. In southern Greenland, Greenland halibut are found in particular in ice fjords, but they are most widespread in Northern Greenland - north of Qaanaaq and Ittoqqortoormiit. Greenland halibut prefer the greater depths of 200-400 metres water, often on the soft and slightly sludgy floor of the ice fjord. The Greenland halibut, which is called Qalerarik in Greenlandic, is not as common a catch for anglers, but now and then is duped in special places. Its preferred food is prawns and small fish. In the winter Greenland halibut are caught directly from the ice with a handline and hook line, e.g. in the Ummannaq area, and from the ice in Ilulissat. This type of fishing must be said to be an unusual challenge to the angler wanting a very special ice-fishing experience in the Arctic. Ice fjord fishing has a charm all of its own. It is the ultimate form of fishing which takes place in the winter from the ice in Ilulissat, amongst other places, where you can go on trips throughout the winter with local fishermen, having the ultimate experience on a dog sledge and landing Greenland halibut through the ice. The Greenland halibut weigh 10-15 kilos on average and are splendid spoils. Strangely enough, it is one of those fish for which it has not yet been possible to determine its age because it lives at a constant temperature. Greenland shark, which anglers like to call the "strange creation", live at depths from 200-600 metres. They are Greenland's largest fish and may be up to 6.5 metres in length. The Greenland shark is a large brown shark. It has a full set of teeth but its food consists mainly of fish and carrion. Since the Greenland shark - also known to the Greenlanders as Eqalussuaq - has very poor eyesight, it uses primarily its sense of smell to find its food. The Greenland shark is widespread in several of the major fjord systems towards the north of Qaanaaq and Danmarkshavn, but this mystical creation, which is particularly known for its fine liver and which weighs 20-25 kilos on average, is fished in only a few places. It is not a prominent or fast fish for anglers; instead it lives up to its Latin name "somniculosus", or "sleepy". Most of those anglers who have fought with the fellow say it is almost like having a heavy sack of potatoes at the other end of the line, but it is still fascinating to catch for those anglers who want something a bit more special - most of all because of its enormous size. The Greenland shark often has fixed places it goes to in order to eat. Experience from Norway suggests that it is therefore advantageous to concentrate the fishing on certain places and that you should pre-feed before and during the fishing. To this end you can use an old potato sack with freshly milled fish with which whale oil, seal blubber or fish oil has been mixed in - just what whets the Greenland shark's appetite. The pre-feed in the potato sack is cast down together with the anchor to a depth of 200-300 metres or more. Here the contents of the sack are slowly washed out into the water, forming a scent which attracts the Greenland shark. In order for the scent to remain constant a new portion of pre-feed should be prepared after a couple of hours' fishing. Greenland shark can be big, but in most cases you can manage with relatively light tackle. A 30-50 pound rod and a reel which holds a suitable line capacity, e.g. Penn 6/O-10/O, or any multiplier reel which holds between 300-600 metres of 0.60 mm line, can be used. When fishing in deep water spun line (Dacron), Kevlar line or wire line is often an advantage, since it gives greater sensitivity with the first cautious bite. At the other end of the line you will need a wire snell of 5-7 metres. The rig is bound by two pieces of 200 kg wire snell: 1.5 metres of wire with hook, connected to a swivel which is then followed by a further 3-5 metres of wire. The inserted coupling, which is what the swivel is in reality, stops the line kinking during the fishing, and the wire filters together. Choose a single hook of size 10/O-12/O, which is baited with whale meat, seal blubber, pieces of fish or rotten meat - and preferably with a decent amount of lunch! The Greenland shark is not known for his willingness to fight, but it may still be necessary to have a rod belt and shoulder pad when a 3 metre shark is to be brought up from a depth of 300 metres. Sea-fishing for Greenland shark can be organised for those anglers interested. However, the trip will require a lot of planning from home. And it is no secret that there is very little knowledge and experience to be found locally for those anglers wanting to pioneer this type of fishing. An expedition for Greenland shark will often be easiest to organise for a small group of enthusiasts who hire a boat between them for a period. Like the fjord cod, the rough dab is one of the fish often landed when fishing in the sea. The rough dab is similar to the common dab and can be large - 3-4 kilos is not unusual. The rough dab is not reckoned to be a particularly good fish to eat because its meat is watery, but in fact the flavour is not bad if the fillets of the fish are dried with salt for a day to draw some of the water out of the meat. The rough dab is greedy, has a large mouth and can easily swallow a 300 gram jig in a mouthful - or as good as - and it is caught both with a jig and with a hanger, with or without bait, or by coarse fishing with natural bait. Other fish for the angler Sea-fishing always provides surprises and you never know for sure what is biting on the other end of the line. This is also the case in the Arctic where, in addition to the species mentioned above, other exciting duellists are found now and again in Greenlandic waters. Experimental fishing in Southern Greenland has revealed, for example, that the North Atlantic tuna stays in the waters off southern Greenland for brief periods from time to time. The tuna often draws a long way out to sea, and it is the calm Gulf Stream which can transport them so far north. The North Atlantic tuna is an exciting angling fish. It grows large - up to 400 kilos - and is a fabulous fighter. However, the amount of knowledge about the tuna's presence in Greenland is very modest at the present point in time. The porbeagle or mackerel shark is another exciting angling fish which experimental fishing has revealed is found in the waters around Greenland - and particularly off southern Greenland. Like the tuna, it enjoys warm water and when it comes to visit it is often because it has taken a detour with the calm Gulf Stream. The very presence of this splendid angling fish in southern Greenland can cause an outbreak of fishing fever in many sea-anglers - if they don't have it already. In certain periods large herring also come in close to land and into the fjords. This happens particularly in southern Greenland in the late summer. Here it is sometimes also possible to come across coley and pollack on a detour during warm summers, but these species are rare occurrences. The sea scorpion or sculpin is very common in Greenlandic waters and grows to a large size. There are several types and in some places the sea scorpions are a plague like the fjord cod. Whatever you do, you can hardly avoid these greedy fish which bite instantly. The sea scorpion is a valued fish for eating in Greenland. Greenlanders make soup with the fish or fry the tails. Capelin, or ammasset as it is called in Greenlandic, is one of the basic feed fish in Greenlandic waters in the summer. The capelin may be up to 15 cm in length, and this small salmonid is very widespread in the shallow water along the coast. In June the fish move into the sandy coasts in order to spawn. Then the sea is almost filled with these small, bright fish, who practically jump onto land in their friskiness. Virtually all the Greenlandic predatory fish follow in their wake. In earlier times the capelin was very important to the nutrition and health of Greenlanders. It has been determined that this little fish has a content of calcium and oil of 18%, making it a little vitamin bomb in the Arctic environment. The capelin or ammasset used to be so important to the eastern Greenlanders that they called their largest town after the fish: Ammassalik. The sandeel is also a very widespread feed fish in the fjord systems and is often found in relatively large numbers - often in very special places, depending on the weather and wind. In addition to the species mentioned, there are also a great number of very rare deep sea fish in Greenlandic waters. However, most stay at depths which one can hardly reach with ordinary sea tackle. In addition, there are smaller fish - "strange creations" - which cannot be considered angling fish in their current stocks. Those interested should buy the book "Fish in Greenlandic Waters" by Jørgen G. Nielsen and Jørgen Bertelsen. The book is available in Greenlandic, Danish and English and is sold in most Greenlandic book shops. Waves, wind and water Although the Greenlandic fjords on the west coast open up to the windswept Davis Strait, most sea fishing takes place in sheltered waters - inside and just outside of the fjords and skerries, where it is generally possible to find shelter from the wind. However, the wind may well cause problems, particularly in connection with tide changes when the water level changes by 3-4 metres. The waves can show their teeth during strong "Fhn" storms in particular, with white tips and frothing scum on the surface. Wind dust is also a very common phenomenon in the narrow fjords which are hemmed in by high mountainsides on both sides. In the daytime hours when the temperature over land increases, the air will rise skywards. This will automatically result in lower pressure over land and, thus, also in wind. These fjord winds are experienced particularly in the summer, starting at 2 or 3 o'clock in the afternoon when the temperature rises. The result is often a series of strong wind impulses which make the waves show their teeth without warning. The water in Greenlandic waters is cold - often no more than a couple of degrees above zero. If you have an accident you will cool down uncommonly quickly, so there is more than good reason to take special care and always to wear a survival suit, or at least a life jacket. Although you would think that falling into the cold yonder would cause shock, only very few people die immediately of shock. However, the cold water makes the body draw blood away from the outer layers of the body in order to keep the core temperature constant. This means you lose the feeling in your fingers, arms and legs in just a few minutes. The body begins to shake. After 5-15 minutes the body's core temperature falls to below 35 degrees C and you become weakened mentally and apathetic, confused and irrational. As soon as the body temperature falls below 28 degrees C, you die of hypothermia. Plan your sea-fishing trip thoroughly from home If you are planning a sea-fishing trip in Greenland yourself there are several things which must be arranged before you depart - not least, booking a boat is important. It is often advantageous to book sea-fishing trips through a tour operator, since these trips will often have taken all the local planning into account: accommodation, hire of boat with a skipper, meals, etc. In addition, you can be sure that these trips will be made on boats which meet the current rules and regulations. Often a package sea-fishing tour is also many times cheaper than a tour which you plan yourself. If you want to set off on a fishing adventure yourself, then contact the local tourist offices in good time to find out what boats can be hired. If is often advantageous to be part of a group of a certain size in order to share the cost of the boat. SALMON FISHING Greenland offers battles not only for sea anglers and Arctic char enthusiasts.
There are also genuine salmon in Greenlandic waters which provide exciting
and atmospheric trolling along the coasts and in the fjords. This fishing
can be combined with sea-fishing and Arctic char fishing if you wish. Greenlandic salmon have come a long way The Atlantic salmon is called kapisilit in Greenlandic, but it is not "real" Greenlandic salmon, which was originally born and bred in Greenland and which is found in the Davis Strait between Greenland and northern Canada. Instead it is salmon which comes from both sides of the Atlantic - from the fish-rich rivers of Canada and the USA to the west, and also from a number of western European rivers - including those in Britain, Norway, Iceland, the Faroe Islands, the Baltic, rivers in the west of Sweden and even from as far afield as rivers in northern Spain. Until now it has been a mystery as to what the many salmon are doing in Greenland. It was not until the mid 1950s that a marked salmon was caught which brought researchers a little bit closer to solving the puzzle. It happened near Maniitsoq on the West Coast, where a marked salmon was landed. The salmon's mark showed that it was a fish from Scotland which had been planted in the sea a little to the north of Aberdeen. This salmon had migrated 3,000 kilometres and across the North Atlantic to come to the dinner party in Greenland! One of the many theories concerning why salmon migrate all the way to Greenland concerns the presence of the enormous quantities of food - not least capelin, sandeel and krill which, in the autumn, are present in such massive shoals off Greenland that in some places the sea almost seethes with life under the surface. In other words, here the salmon can find an extremely well-stocked dining room. Another theory goes further back in the history of creation - in fact to the last "minor ice age", when the continental shelf and the sea looked rather different to the way they do today. In the "continental" period most of the North Sea was dry land and the great western European rivers then had almost direct access to the Atlantic. As soon as a migrating salmon hit the sea, the fish could not help but end up in Greenland if it continued northwards for long enough. This theory is thus based on the idea that the salmon have "inherited" mechanisms from their ancestors which cause them to make the trip to Greenland to eat. Science has not yet been able to conclude for certain which solution is the right one. The same is true of how the salmon find their way back to the spawning river after the visit, because it really has been proved in practice that they do so. Salmon caught on the Greenlandic coast have been marked and replaced in the sea to be caught later in their home rivers. The salmon season The salmon season starts in late summer, when large quantities of Atlantic salmon round the southern tip of Greenland and appear along the West Coast. In Southern Greenland the fishing starts in August, when the first shoals of salmon hit the Greenlandic fjord system on their eating migration. The season continues until October, but note that the further north you go up towards the west coast, the earlier the salmon fishing seems to stop. When the salmon shoals arrive in Greenlandic waters the fish quickly find their way into the mouths of the fjords and start hunting. Often a number of fish gather together in small or larger shoals and their actions depend greatly on the food fish and where these are found. Where are the salmon? Trolling mostly takes place close to the coast, often in the fjord systems where the salmon gather. However, sometimes you can get to fish a couple of nautical miles from the coast - but this is only advisable when the weather is at its best. Catches of salmon in Southern Greenland around Narsaq and Qaqortoq, where the fishing is most developed, show that the best fishing is experienced when there are waves and a light to fresh wind. Good results are rarely obtained when there is no wind. Possibly the salmon are frightened in the crystal clear water when there are no waves - or perhaps it is because the artificial bait takes on a more lively and alluring movement when the boat is lifted up and down by the waves. The average weight of salmon caught by trolling is around 4-5 kilos - but considerably larger fish are regularly landed by drift-net fishermen. By far the majority of the salmon caught by the trolling method to date have bitten in just 5-15 metres of water. The fishing is best in rising water, when the salmon are almost pushed into the fjords by the tidal water. In general, the salmon go relatively deep in clear, still weather, whereas they are relatively high in the water when it is grey, dark and blowy. Moreover, experience shows that morning and evening fishing normally produce the most fish. According to local fishermen, whether the sun is shining or the weather is grey is not that significant for the resulting catch but, since salmon can feel even the slightest change in pressure, the weather conditions are otherwise of great significance for the fishing. For example, elsewhere in the world experience has shown that the salmon can be completely uninterested in taking in food when there is low pressure, whereas they bite very keenly when there is high pressure. Amongst other things, salmon choose their food migration according to the temperature of the water and seek out the areas in which there are copious quantities of food. The pleasant temperature in the water is often nearest the surface, where there is generally also the most oxygen in the water. And remember: salmon cannot bear having much water over their backs, but like a lot under their bellies - as the old saying amongst salmon fishermen goes. Trolling Several biological investigations have shown that salmon often choose to swim round peaks or underwater crags instead of going over them. It may therefore pay to spend time trolling out areas where depth curves run close together. The salmon use areas with peaks or crags to block off the escape routes for the fish they eat and, in principle, the salmon shepherd them together in a corner. For this reason, areas with varying depths are always worth trying. Often it is an advantage to fish on the wind side (where the wind is on land), since small fish have a tendency to gather here. Look out for the seagulls. Where flocks of gulls go down and nip fish on the surface, salmon are often to be found in the neighbouring layer. Often shoals of salmon practically force shoals of small fish to the surface from below, and the gulls join in the meal from above. When you see this "gull play" it can pay to troll around the spectacle in large circles, spiralling in towards the middle. Keep an eye on the drift-nets too. The locals often known where and when the salmon are on the move. Salmon often follow a spoon or wobbler and bite a couple of times before deciding to take a mouthful. If you feel a small nip, it can pay to vary the speed of the engine and maybe sail a little slower or a bit faster. It is often when the artificial bait has an unusual and irregular movement that the salmon's biting instinct is triggered. On some days the only salvation is to have the bait spread out in a semi-circle in the wake; on other days you should preferably bring the bait close together, to be reminiscent of a small shoal of fish. This luring effect has proved to be effective in Greenland on days when the food fish are deep. Since the salmon are only in the sea off Greenland, where they come to eat, it is here they must be caught. This fishing is carried out exclusively from boats or dinghies and is based on various forms of trolling. Trolling in all its embodiments is an atmospheric form of fishing carried out from a boat or dinghy, and which is practised in the beautiful fjords where whales and seals pop up now and then, whilst icebergs of all sizes and colours sail past on the horizon. Icebergs are only found in Southern Greenland, Disko Bay and Eastern Greenland. The areas in which trolling is most well developed to date lie in Southern Greenland, e.g. off Narsaq and Qaqortoq. Many fine catches have already been made here, but in several fjords up along the West Coast extensive test fishing is in progress at local level in order to chart the potential - many places are still entirely unresearched. "Trolling with spoon-bait" behind the boat, or surface trolling as it is also called, is the traditional way of investigating larger fishing areas. Instead of casting out and spinning in 300 times, it is easier to troll spoon-bait 20-50 metres behind the dinghy whilst the boat is moving at a walking pace or 1.5-4 knots. You can fish very well with two to four rods at once; one or two on each side of the boat, each with their own spoon-bait, e.g. a Northern King, Salmon Queen, Trolling Devil, Predator trolling spoon-bait, Toby, Inkoo, Flutter Spoon, Diamond King, Krocodile and Rapala's spoon-bait to name but a few, in weights from 10-30 grams. Or perhaps one or two wobblers, e.g. Rapala Husky, Rapala Magnum, Rapala Shad Deep, Rapala Original, Rapala Jointed, Rapala Sliver, Nils Master, Bomber, Turus, Ukko, Abu Hi-Lo Minnow, Rebel wobbler, etc. of 7-20 cm. During the fishing it is important to ensure that the artificial bait is being trolled correctly in the boat's wake. Look at the tip of the rod. If it is nodding, the spoon-bait or wobbler is moving correctly; but if the tip of the rod is still, the hook of the artificial bait may have caught some growth or seaweed which needs to be removed. Planer board fishing is a development of traditional surface fishing. The planer board is a kind of surface paravane which projects out from the side of the boat just like a plough. Often you fish with two planer boards - one on each side of the boat. The planer board is made of wood or plastic and is designed such that it automatically draws out to the side. When the planer board has been placed out alongside the boat you place out the artificial bait piece by piece at the distance behind the boat which you want the spoon-bait or wobbler to go. Before the artificial bait is put out you can, if you like, fit one of the special depth paravanes, e.g. a Finnish Kuusamo, one and a half to two metres in front of the artificial bait. This will ensure that spoon-bait or wobblers are weighed down in deeper water, and it is often advantageous for each individual rod to fish at a particular depth, since you want to cover as many depths as possible until you have got the first salmon to show its hand. It is difficult to say exactly what length line you should fish with, i.e. how far behind the boat the artificial bait should work. Some people prefer to use long length lines and have luck with these, whilst others say that short lines are the only right way to do it. However, this does not mean that the line length is of no significance, for there is no doubt that some days you need long length lines behind the boat, and other days you need short lengths. In general one can say that line lengths of around 50-60 metres behind the boat can be recommended when the water is as bright as a mirror - not least because the waters around Greenland are so pure and clear. Line lengths of 20-40 metres can be recommended on windy days and when the waves have white tips. When the spoon-bait or wobbler is moving correctly in the wake, fit a line-release clip on the line between the mast and the surface paravane, holding the fishing line in a fixed position. Having done this, allow line to be released out towards the surface paravane and let it fish at the distance from the side of the boat which you have decided on. This is done with all the rods which you want to have in action. In this neat way planer board fishing ensures a greater spread of the bait than with traditional surface trolling and you can investigate a much larger area. And, bearing in mind the distances and the extent of the fjord systems in Greenland, this is very useful. However, it is first and foremost the introduction of downrigger fishing which has now opened up new horizons for catches of real Atlantic salmon and drawn the Greenlanders' attention to the opportunities and potential which lies in salmon trolling in the regions. Fishing with a downrigger originates from the great lakes on the border between Canada and the USA, where it has developed at an almost explosive rate. In recent years this type of fishing has also caught on well in Scandinavia and now also in Greenland. The "downrigger" is the amazing little machine on which this fishing is based. The downrigger is fixed on board the boat and consists of an arm with a reel of wire line, at the end of which is placed a 3-7 kg lead ball. It also has a little trip counter which shows how deep the lead ball is, and a handle which is used to cast the wire line with the lead weight down alongside the boat, or to reel it in. Using a trigger button, the lead ball is cast down alongside and under the boat, whilst the counter shows how far down the lead ball is. A line clip release is fitted in the lead ball in which the fishing line from a rod and reel are fitted. There are several models of line clip releases or line clips available. It is important to choose a model which can be adjusted accurately so that it is triggered when the fish bites. Fishing tackle producers Walker and Canon, for example, make some excellent line clips for this kind of fishing. Remember to bring along a few extra from home if you are going trolling because they are not sold in Greenland. Before the fishing line is fitted in the clip, the line clip must be finely adjusted so as to give line when a fish bites but not be triggered simply by the resistance and pressure of current from the water. Extra clips can be fitted above the lead weight up towards the wire if you want to fish with more than one rod. This is advisable, since you can then fish several depths at the same time. The downrigger and the lead ball are now given spoon-bait or wobblers in order to fish at the desired depth, whilst spoon-bait and wobblers fish 10-50 metres horizontally backwards and, say, 25 foot down (1 foot = 30 cm) or perhaps 30, 40 or 50 feet. Here one must experiment with depths and line lengths behind the boat and try things out until you have found the right formula for that day's catch. Downrigger fishing is effective for several reasons. Firstly, it stops you from constantly catching the big seaweed plants which float around at the surface of fjords and along the coast. In some places the seaweed plants make surface trolling difficult because lines and spoon-bait drawn behind the boat on the surface keep getting wrapped up in the floating underwater palms. If you use a downrigger it ensures that the fishing line does not get caught in the floating seaweed, since the line and artificial bait are kept below the surface by the heavy lead under the keel. However, the most important thing is that the downrigger equipment makes it possible to sink several spoon-baits and wobblers down at different depths which were difficult to fish before. Before there was the downrigger, it was a real problem finding wobblers and spoon-bait which could investigate depths more than 4-5 metres down, since the drag from the boat and the water resistance automatically force the artificial bait up in the water. With the downrigger this problem fades away like morning dew, since the lead ball at the end ensures the spoon-bait or wobbler sinks to the depth at which you want it to work. Once the spoon-bait or wobbler has been set to fish at the chosen depth under the boat and length from the boat, the rod is placed on a rest. Ensure that the line to the wobbler and spoon-bait is taut. Now sail around the desired depth at a speed of 2-4 knots. Then it is just a matter of waiting. Suddenly the rod bends wildly: a genuine salmon has fallen into the trap. After the rise, do not stop straight away but keep sailing. Salmon often gather in small shoals and if you wait a bit after the first rise it is not uncommon for another fish from the shoal to find its way to the hook. In the meantime give the salmon which has already been hooked line - but naturally you should keep a taut line to it, otherwise the fellow will have a good chance of freeing himself from the hook. The salmon which has been hooked will generally go straight up to the surface and make a proper splash. So follow it nicely if it is not to get away in a wild escape. It varies from salmon to salmon - but only a few noble fishes in this world are in the same category as the Greenlandic iced lightning, which generally fights hard for every centimetre of line. Moreover, it is a sight to behold when the bright silver beauty surfaces alongside the boat with the spoon-bait or wobbler in its jaws, shining almost like silver paper being torn off the roll. A splendid sight. Before the salmon is landed the deck should be cleared of tackle so that nothing is in the way. As the salmon approaches the boat, it will often attempt one more escape - a last desperate attempt to slip back to freedom. Put even pressure on the fish and let it circle around alongside the boat until it has worked off the worst of it. Then steer it into the landing net head first and lift the fellow on board. Always clean the first salmon of the day straight away and study its stomach contents. This will provide you with some indication of what the salmon are eating and which tactics and artificial bait you should choose. Salmon trolling equipment For surface fishing where you fish with a couple of rods on each side of the boat, the species can be managed with ordinary spinner rods of 8-9 feet, a fixed-spool reel and 0.35 mm line. However, this is not the optimal equipment; if possible, use proper trolling rods for trolling. This is essential for downrigger fishing, since many ordinary spinner rods are simply unusable; in the worst case they will break because of the load. Trolling rods for downrigger fishing must be very soft and supple in order to be able to be held firm in the downrigger. Only in a few places in Greenland can these rods be hired, and in by far the majority of places they are required to be brought from home. Contact the local tourist offices for more information about this and to find out both which ones are available and what equipment they are rigged up with. The trolling rods should be equipped with multiplier reels. This applies both to surface trolling and downrigger fishing. This type of reel is particularly well suited, since multiplier reels are equipped with a very good and even brake, so that you can put even pressure on the fish after the rise. In addition, multiplier reels can generally hold more line than fixed reels and this is often very useful when a salmon of 4-6 kilos runs off with the spoon-bait in its jaws - escapes of 50-75 metres or more are entirely normal. Multiplier reels for trolling fishing must be the size of an Ambassadeur 7000 or equivalent and, as a minimum, must be able to hold 200 metres of 0.30-0.45 mm line. Wobblers and spoon-bait of matt but clear colours, e.g. silver and gold, have shown themselves to be particularly successful. The salmon's own colours of black and bright silver are also excellent colours; the same applies to colours which are reminiscent of capelin and sandeel. When the weather is clear, blue wobblers or silver spoon-bait with blue strips may be the thing. If it is cloudy, perhaps gold-coloured wobblers or spoon-bait should be tied to the end of the line. The wobbler and spoon-bait models used in Scandinavian waters are largely the same as those used in Greenland. Examples of spoon bait include Northern King, Salmon Queen, Trolling Devil, Predator trolling spoon-bait, Toby, Inkoo, Flutter Spoon, Diamond King, Krocodile and Rapala's spoon-bait in weights from 10-30 grams. The spoon-baits must preferably be relatively large, approx. 7-20 cm long. Examples of wobblers for this fishing include Rapala Husky, Rapala Magnum, Rapala Shad Deep, Rapala Original, Rapala Jointed, Rapala Sliver, Nils Master, Bomber, Turus Ukko, Hi-Lo Minnow, Rebel wobbler, etc. Wobblers in sizes 7-15 cm are the most widely used. Salmon trolling requires planning Salmon trolling has great opportunities for development in Greenland but the trip must be planned carefully. The best opportunities for salmon trolling are found on the west coast and particularly in Southern Greenland. In Sisimiut test fishing has been taking place in recent years using trolling equipment, and more boats and dinghies are being rigged up for fishing in these parts. It is not usually far to go to the fishing sites, which are generally within a reasonable distance of the town or village which is the starting point for the trolling trip. In addition to the fishing, you will always have a beautiful experience of the coastal scenery into the bargain as you silently and calmly sail around the fjords with salmon in your sights. However, Greenlandic waters are not only beautiful, they are also dangerous. It is not advisable to go to sea without a local guide or skipper, since wind and weather conditions can change character like a bolt of lightning from a clear sky. In addition, in every fjord there are a large number of hidden rocks and current areas which are not to be trifled with, so always wear a lifejacket or survival suit on board. The water is cold and once the accident has happened things can quickly go terribly wrong. You will need to be in possession of a relatively strong boat which is rigged up for the fishing with a downrigger, planer board mast, rod rests, echo-sounder, GPS and all the other essential trolling equipment to get the most out of your salmon fishing. At the moment there are only a few suitable vessels with the right equipment, and those which are available need to be booked in good time. Expect the daily rate for hire of the boat and a skipper to be around DKK 4000-8000 per day, depending on the size and equipment of the boat. Most places will give you some kind of discount if you are hiring for more than one day, but it will still be an advantage to set off with a couple of fishing chums to bring the trolling trip down to a reasonable price per person. If you are only visiting Greenland for a brief period in order to fish for salmon or fish at sea, the most convenient way is to book the trip through the local tourist offices or tour operators. Then you can be sure that the boat or dinghy and any guide meet the rules in force before sailing with passengers. Package solutions including travel, accommodation, boat hire and board are often cheaper than organising the whole thing yourself - and you also save all that planning time. PRACTICAL INFORMATION Fishing permits Everyone over 18 years of age wanting to fish in Greenland must hold a valid fishing permit. These can be obtained from the local tourist office or from the police. Permit A costs DKK 200 and entitles you to fish for one month. Permit B costs DKK 500 and is valid for three months. Taking home your catch. Sending your catch from Greenland to your home address can easily be done. However, always remember that the fish stocks in the Arctic environment are vulnerable. All the species, almost without exception, have taken a long time to grow large. These fish should be particularly respected and treated as piece of valuable nature! In most Greenlandic towns there are cold stores where you can have the fish frozen. In many places this can also be done where you are staying and you can use the old trick of pouring into the freezer bag half a glass of water for each kilo of fish before freezing it down. The water reduces both evaporation and drying out and keeps the fish fresh for longer - up to 50% longer. In other words, you can have "fresh fish" in 4-5 months' time. Remember that oily fish such as salmon and trout cannot tolerate being frozen for long periods or the fat begins to go rancid. At several places along the coast the fish can be transported to your home address as frozen goods. The easiest thing is to contact the local KNI office or to get where you are staying or the tour operator to arrange transport of the catch home. Royal Arctic Line stores and dispatches to Aalborg in Denmark, and from there the fish is delivered by carrier. If you wish, salmon and trout can also be smoked locally so that you can take your catch home in your hand luggage. Further information is available from local tourist offices. The midnight sun. In Northern Greenland this means that there is sun - and it is light - 24 hours a day in the summer. In Sisimiut there is midnight sun in June, but you have to go up into the mountains to see it because the sun is low in the sky. Nuuk is situated too far south to have midnight sun, but summer nights are very short and light. Safety on board. Before a ship or dinghy can be used for sailing with passengers it must be approved by the Danish Maritime Authority. The vessel must meet very high requirements with regard to the construction of the ship, safety equipment for passengers, fire extinguishing, signal and communication equipment and the training of the crew. There is a mandatory annual inspection of all safety and communication equipment, and every other year the hull and machinery must be inspected if the sailing permit is to be renewed. If you arrange fishing with a local fisherman or hunter on your own initiative from his dinghy or cutter, the requirements of the Maritime Authority will not normally be met. The same applies to sailing in private leisure vessels. Tour operators - angling - Greenland. You can always contact Greenland Tourism and the various tour operators selling tours to Greenland for further advice and guidance. Team Arctic Amager Landevej 171 C DK-2770 Kastrup Denmark Fax. +45 32 52 30 86 Tel. +45 32 52 30 66 Ilulissat Tourist Service P.O Box 262 3952 Ilulissat Greenland Fax. + 299 4 39 33 Tel. + 299 4 43 22 Further information about angling and travel to Greenland: Order a free copy of our Greenland brochure & booklet. Greenland Tourism a/s P.O: Box 1139 DK-1010 Copenhagen K Denmark Tel. +45 33 13 69 75 Fax +45 33 93 38 83 greenfo@inet.uni-c.dk Greenland Tourism a/s P.O. Box 1552 DK-3900 Nuuk Greenland Tel. +299 2 28 88 Fax +299 2 28 77 greenland.tourism@greennet.gl
Provided by Greenland Guide & Greenland Tourism |