Greenland Tourism logo

Narsarsuaq Hiking Map


This information is provided by Greenland Tourism a/s, the national tourist board of Greenland



The map is produced: 1994
Based on: 1987 air photograps
Photogrammetry: Harvey Map Services, Scotland
Printing: In color on waterproof paper.
Projection and Datum: WGS84
Contours: 25 meter interval
Scale: 1:100.000
Covered area: 40 x 60 km
Price: Approx DKK 200,00 with 3 maps (
Narsaq, Narsarsuaq, Qaqortoq)
and a hiking guide in english, german and danish
Order: See main map page.


Hiking in South Greenland:
By sheep-tracks along ice-filled fjords


Municipalities and towns
Three of the 18 Greenland municipalities lie in South Greenland proper. Approx. 3,000 sq km of the municipality of Narsaq is free of ice, while a further 4,000 sq km lie under the Ice Cap. 2,150 people live there, about 1,850 of them in the town of Narsaq. Narsaq is Greenland's most important sheep-farming municipality, with agriculture in the sheltered fjords and slaughtering of the animals in the town. Apart from sheep-farming, fishing, tourism and handicraft products are important activities. Qaqortoq (Julianehåb) is South Greenland's largest town, with about 2,600 of the total 3,000 inhabitants living in the actual town, which is a communications, service and education centre for South Greenland. There are about 2,500 sq km of coastland, with peninsulas, islands and skerries. The home-rule owned tannery "Great Greenland" buys, works-up and sells pelt and fur products.

Sheep-farming
As a hiker in South Greenland you may make the mistake of thinking that sheep-farming is the main trade of the country. Hard-working sheep-farmers put up fences, grow forage grain and hay grass, or tend their fields until far into the long arctic summer evenings. Sheep-farmers are often seen travelling along unsurfaced roads between the sheep-farms on tractors, cross-country motorbikes or on horseback, always with a couple of barking Scottish sheep dogs at their heels, on their way on some errand or other.

Sheep-farming started in South Greenland in 1915 and is still growing. About 350 people in around 70 households make their living from sheep-farming. Like almost all other forms of agriculture in the Western world the sheep-farming trade in Greenland receives state subsidies. The entire production is sold in Greenland, much of it not even leaving the local communities.

The sheep-farms are normally isolated or in small clusters and are run as family enterprises. The typical sheep-farm lies down by the fjord and consists of one or several dwellings, a sheepcot and hay barn, and advanced farm machinery. Sheep-farms are often handed down from one generation to the next. Where a number of sheep-farms lie close to each other, the farmers are as a rule closely related. A certain amount of space between neighbours is essential if enough grazing is to be provided for the 200-400 ewes that are needed for people to be able to live off sheep-farming. At the Upernaviarsuk sheep-breeding station work is done on improving breeds and strains of utility plants, as well as on training new sheep-farmers. A consultancy service helps the sheep-farmers to organize farm operation, purchases and provisioning.

During the winter months the sheep are fed and taken care of in the sheepcot and are normally put out to graze in April-May. Sheep-farmers are at their busiest in the spring with the lambing and taking care of the lambs. The fields also have to be sown and new soil prepared, so that the short arctic summer can be put to optimum use. The sheep are sorted and marked. Summer itself is a slightly more relaxed period, when there is time for new projects and for maintenance. Then comes the harvest in the unpredictable late-summer weather, with the sheep being rounded up in the autumn. For weeks on end the sheep-farmers comb "their" huge fjordland areas in groups, on horseback or on foot, with wonderful help from their dogs. In the course of the autumn the selected lambs are rounded up into flocks and sailed to Narsaq to be slaughtered and processed.

There are a number of advantages for hikers in the gentle, fertile sheep-farming areas. Grazing has a great effect on the local vegetation. Annoying bushes and shrubs are kept down, which gives short, stiff grass pride of place. This results in pleasant hiking terrain. You will be sure to notice this in the area north-west of Qassiarsuk, where sheep-farmers are at present setting up east-west electric fencing to prevent over-grazing. This impassable fencing can only be forced at gates, which are always to be found on roads used by tractors, as well as at a few other points on the mountain.

Sheep-tracks are another advantage. An intricate network of approx. 30-40 cm wide, more or less visible tracks criss-cross the landscape, worn into the thin layer of soil by the sharp hooves of the sheep. Just like hikers, sheep like to make their way across the countryside in the most economical fashion. Which means that following sheep-tracks is often a very good idea. However, hikers and sheep do not always agree on where they want to go. Hikers may find that what they believed to be a main thoroughfare suddenly peters out and disappears. Or that the track is fine and follows the same direction, but it happens not to be the direction the hiker was thinking of going. Mosquitoes are also said to be unwilling to lay their eggs in water polluted by sheep. It is certainly true that there are strikingly less of them in places where there are a lot of sheep.

Hikers must respect those who live off the land. Staying the night in sheep-farmers huts/youth hostels is a good way of helping them, as is buying from them such fresh produce as eggs, char, mutton, vegetables, etc. in the late-summer. It supplements dry rations and helps to support the sheep-farmers.

In areas used for growing hay grass (marked in yellow on the map) you must keep to already existing roads and paths. What the hiker often thinks looks like a wonderful, inviting flower-strewn lawn is nearly always a hay-meadow that with great difficulty has been cleared of stones, fertilized and tended. Resist the temptation to climb over the fence, even though the next gate may be far away. A sagging or damaged fence may mean that the sheep are eating valuable crops that were to be used for winter feed, or that carefully sorted animals will have to be rounded up and driven together once more. When passing through gates, leave them as you found them, either open or shut. It is normally unnecessary to undo any rope; a strong push on a closing device will fix the gate in place.

History
The first Inuit who settled in South Greenland c. 1600 BC belonged to the culture now referred to as Saqqaq. The peoples from the later Dorset culture were forced out c. 900 AD by the last great wave of immigrants - the Thule culture - who are the direct ancestors of the present population. Ruins of the Inuit culture are most frequent down by the coast, where the hunting of marine mammals and fishing were best.

Eric the Red was outlawed by the Icelandic Alting for a double murder in 982. He spent the three years of his sentence exploring the fjordland areas of south-west Greenland. After his return to Iceland, he soon headed for Greenland once more, this time at the head of a fleet of 25 ships. The 14 ships that survived the Atlantic crossing of 986 contained the founders of the Norse culture in Greenland. Eric the Red himself chose to settle in Brattahlid, present-day Qassiarsuk, opposite Narsarsuaq. The impressive ruins there are both well-documented and well-preserved. U-shaped turf now marks the outline of the church called Tjorhildes Kirke. Founded around the year 1000, it is probably the first Christian church in Greenland (and in the New World).

The Norse culture was first and foremost a peasant culture, supplemented by hunting and trade. The scattered settlements of south-west Greenland were given the name "Østerbygden" (the eastern settlement). The Norsemen established farms and folds, clearing the fields of stones and boulders (fields which the sheep-farmers of today still use). They lived their lives in the Scandinavian-Icelandic tradition, adapting it to Greenland conditions.

Christianity in South Greenland reached a climax in the establishment of the Bishopric of Gardar near Igaliku in 1126. Hvalsø Church Ruins, near Qaqortup Imaa, north-east of Qaqortoq, are from a church built c. 1300. The church ruins are extremely well-preserved, seeming to echo the great marriages and feasts of centuries ago. There are numerous Norse ruins everywhere in South Greenland - some of the best-preserved lie south-west of Igaliku near Sissarluttoq.

The ruins are listed monuments. It is forbidden to move any stones, to dig, to remove any objects, to light fires or to camp within a distance of 20 metres from the ruins. Ancient monuments in South Greenland already suffer from the fact that for thousands of years people have naturally chosen previously cultivated places to settle. The most obvious of these still attract sheep-farmers as much as they do weary hikers. Respect ancient monuments - they are protected by law, but still depend on your careful treatment of them!

Geology
South Greenland has long been known as one of the most interesting geological areas in the world. The types of rock of which South Greenland's mountains are composed are the result of a long geological process. There were periods of great geological activity and others of very little activity. The oldest rocks are types of granite, formed deep down in the earth's crust under a huge mountain-range folding 1,700-1,800 million years ago. This folding affected the entire area, making "Julianehåb granite" the most widespread type of rock in the area. In the course of the next 300 million years the area gradually rose, while the mountains underwent erosion, allowing the granite to reach the surface.

The period from 1,100 to 1,400 million years ago is called the Gardar period. During this period there were many movements of the earth's crust, resulting in deep fissures in a north-east to south-west direction and the formation of an oblong depressed area of considerable volcanic activity. In this area thick layers of sand were deposited, formed of particles of eroded Julianehåb granite. The sand strata formed on land and were deposited both by running water in the river beds and as dunes by wind drift. This sand has now hardened into sandstone, which can be either white or reddish in colour. The well-known Igaliku sandstone is red with flecks of white and sometimes contains fine examples of rock crystal, quartz.

At the same time that the sand was being deposited, magma (molten rock) forced its way up through the cracks in the earth's crust and flowed out over the earth's surface, where it hardened as lava. The lava formed alternating strata with the sandstone and the granite. This is now visible as black belts on the mountain sides. The land later tipped slightly down towards the coast. The strata underwent erosion at varying speeds. The hiker can clearly see this when walking through the terrace-shaped landscapes around Sillisit, over the Naajat massif, and near Ipiutaq.

We have to think of the area during the Gardar period as one of a series of both active and extinct volcanoes. At certain points in the earth's crust the magma collected in "magma chambers", the so-called intrusions. There is an unusually high number of various types of intrusions in the Narsaq area. Those in search of minerals and metals such as zirconium, niob, lithium and uranium, and such semi-precious stones as iridescent feldspar, agate, quartz crystals, blue fluorspar and moonstone. The Ilimmaasaq intrusion is a big one, situated due east of Narsaq. There have been hot springs, but probably no volcanic eruptions over this intrusion. It contains large quantities of materials that often accompany volcanic eruptions, but which have been preserved in Ilimmaasaq. This has contributed to the wealth of minerals for which the place is deservedly famous. Utilization of the uranium to be found near Kvanefjeld has been considered. Among the many semi-precious stones in the area one of the most attractive is the red tuttupit. The so-called Igaliku complex lies east of Narsarsuaq-Igaliku.

Intrusions reveal themselves as desert-like landscapes marked by erosion. Hikers will often experience them as steep, tough hiking terrain, since there is a lot of loose material and sections of "blokmark". Because of the iron deposits, compasses may be completely unreliable in areas of intrusions.

During the Ice Age 5-10 million years ago the area was covered by glaciers. The old north/east south/west displacement zones, with their fissured rock formations, were more easily planed by the ice than the surrounding terrain, resulting in the long deep fjords to be found there today.

Flora
The mild winters, frequent precipitation and many hours of daylight in South Greenland form the vegetation that has helped to give the South Coast its nickname "The Banana Coast". Rather than banana plants, hikers in the fjordland areas cannot avoid seeing the common birch and the blue-grey willow. Down by the coast and high up in the mountains the growth is shrublike and creeping, but in the sheltered heads of the fjords, valleys and ravines, as well as on the slopes facing south and west up to a height of 300 to 500 metres a.s.l., birch as well as willow can form close thickets the height of a man.

The blue-grey willow can be seen everywhere, partly because it is more resistant to a harsh climate and sheep-grazing than the common birch. Dense willow scrub occurs on dry ground and near water courses. The plant can easily be recognized from a distance by its characteristic colour, though it can be extremely difficult to judge whether it is a few centimetres or a couple of metres high. If there are no sheep-tracks to follow, it is often a good idea to seek higher ground - a couple of hundred metres higher up the scrub is much lower, disappearing as you reach the high mountains.

After rain you can find the delicate rough-stemmed boletus mushroom around the birch trees and its smaller and more alpine cousin, the dwarf birch. The mushroom lives in a state of symbiosis with the root system of the birch. Pickers of such mushrooms wanting to make their packet soup tastier can find roughly the same families here as in the rest of Europe. Good eating mushrooms are: Greenland grisette, red amethyst cap ("The Deceiver") and horse mushroom. The only poisonous mushrooms are varieties of the paxillus, clitocybe ("funnel cap") and bitter-sweet inocybe.

Heather plants dominate slightly higher up the mountain. Greenland bog whortleberries and crowberries can be used as a dessert in the late-summer. The narrow-leafed Labrador marsh tea (Gr. "Qajaasaq" = kayak-shaped) is aromatic and slightly euphoriant and is said to be good for headaches, colds and rheumatism.

South Greenland is known first and foremost for a wide variety of grasses, sedge grasses and herbs. From late-June onwards the large-flowered rosebay (Greenland's national flower), harebell, buttercup, hawkweed, cinquefoil, saxifrage, and a host of others, are in full flower. Mountain sorrel, rose root and dandelion can be used for salad. Or try a pinch of Scotch thyme, which grows on the dry slopes facing south-west, to add a little zest to your dry rations, or as the finishing touch to your char fillet.

Shining green areas along stream banks on closer inspection prove to be damp patches of spring lady's mantle and angelica. The lower leaf sheaths and stem of angelica are easy to pull up - they taste rather like celery and are good for quenching hikers' thirst. Both Norsemen and Inuit used angelica in their kitchen - even today it is still cultivated in South Greenland gardens, along with early garden turnips, rhubarb and other utility plants.

"Old Woman's Belly" is the popular name for the acid mountain bogland areas where peat mosses grow - they are mostly found down by the coast. With full hiking equipment this type of vegetation calls for plenty of stamina, especially after rain. In some bogs the mountain birch, among others, forms large, dry balloon-shaped mounds between the damp mosses. Such areas tempt the hiker to jump from mound to mound - until he runs out of steam... When the tired hiker heads for camp in the evening, in search of flat, grass-covered areas that look suitable for tenting, it is easy to be deceived by harmless-looking patches that seem to be reliable. They often turn out to be fenland with sedge and cotton-grass. Cotton-grass, with its white tufts, is stunningly beautiful in late-summer, but as a place to pitch a tent fenland is extremely damp and is unsuitable for holding tent pegs in strong winds.

Fauna
Wild reindeer became extinct in South Greenland in the late-18th century. In the areas north-west of Qassimut in the municipality of Qaqortoq "tame" reindeer were introduced in the 1970s. There are no other large wild land mammals in South Greenland, except for a few flocks of stray sheep and approx. 100 musk ox set out in the Municipality of Ivittut. The white mountain hare becomes greyish in colour after giving birth to its litter in late-May, but is rarely glimpsed. Because of rabies both the white and blue arctic fox are less frequent than previously. The foxes often stay in areas where the range of the tide is great. For most foxes the most important source of food is in fact fish, mussels and other seashore creatures. Human waste often attracts some foxes in the barren mountain regions of Greenland, so foxes are often spotted close to human habitation. If hikers do not take good care of their camp, the foxes may well eat a lot of their provisions; and after leaving, foxes cannot be prevented from sniffing up and digging up everything that has been buried which contains any nutritional value whatsoever.

Only around 50 species of birds breed in Greenland, while there are about 150 more or less regular migratory birds. Among the small species hikers will quickly notice the wheatear, with its black T on a white tail. The birds follow the progress of hikers keenly from big stones, warning each other by clicking sounds that resemble two stones being banged together. The snow bunting is recognized by its black and white plumage. Together with the Lapland bunting and the redpoll the small birds add a twittering, fluttering touch to the summer mountain with their hectic courting, nest-building and egg-laying. The snow bunting breeds in rock crevices, the Lapland bunting on the ground, and the redpoll in bushes and trees. If hikers in ravines with large boulders suddenly come across the flapping wings of a female grouse pretending to be ill, they can be pretty sure that well-camouflaged young lie flattened in the surrounding vegetation only a few metres away.

The huge ravens can be seen and heard a long way off, never missing a chance to disturb circling white-tailed eagles. Thanks to long, hard effort and an information campaign the ornithologist Frank Wille is succeeding in convincing the local population that the almost 100 protected breeding pairs of white-tailed eagles in South Greenland do not eat lambs, but feed on fish, foxes and other small animals. Of the other predatory birds the gerfalcon is most frequently seen. It is recognizable by its piercing shriek.

The charming small red-necked phalarope can be seen delicately licking their way along the edge of lakes, swimming in the water. Large water birds often turn out to be fish-eating red-breasted merganser. If night-time sleep down by a lake is ruined by complaining or dismal cries, the "culprits" are breeding great northern diver.

Apart from sticklebacks, arctic char is the only freshwater species of fish in Greenland. In some of the lakes in the highland area populations of small, but tasty arctic char (Gr. "Toornaarsut" = "Devil's children") thrive, gorging themselves on insects, plashing and leaving rings in the water in calm weather. Sea-going char (Gr. "Eqaluk") return every late-summer to the river or lake where they were born, plump, silvery and tasty after having eaten caplin (Gr. "Ammaaset") and other marine delicacies all summer. Onshore angling is also especially for arctic cod (Gr. "Uvak"), sculpine and cod. Fish soup, with onions and herbs, and thickened with packet soup (DON'T FORGET THE LEMON) tastes simply wonderful, especially with the crashing of icebergs turning in the water in the background. Angling licences are compulsory for all types of fishing. They cost DKK 200 per month and can be obtained on arrival at tourist offices or from the police.

Most of the fjords in South Greenland are threshold fjords, with underground ridges preventing water exchange, which impedes biological production. So sea-mammals such as seals and whales are rarely seen at the heads of fjords. For the same reason most of the ruins of Inuit settlements are down by the coast, as are those of the colonial period and the present-day towns and settlements that are based on marine resources.

Hiking
Much hiking in South Greenland takes place on soil that has poor draining capability. You often find yourself squelching along. Many people choose hiking boots on account of the ankle support they give and their hiking comfort, accepting that they will not always be dryshod. Other people choose rubber boots, which are wonderful in rainy weather and in countryside where there are many rivulets. Footwear is a personal choice. But do leave your high heels at home...

Transportation and stocking up
The home rule-owned KNI Service is responsible for public passenger boat-transportation in Greenland. Routes in South Greenland are marked on the map. Timetables, booking and up-to-date information are obtainable from tourist offices, etc. During the summer there is also charter boat traffic, most frequently between Narsarsuaq, Qassiarsuk, Igaliku and Narsaq. If there is room, or if booked in advance through travel agencies, you can travel by these chartered boats. Slightly more expensive, but a memorable experience, is flying by helicopter. There are almost daily landings at Narsarsuaq, Narsaq, Qaqortoq and Nanortalik.

There are no other transportation links connecting the peninsulas. Make sure you do not end up stranded - you cannot rely on the plane waiting for you. If you feel really enterprising, it is possible to "hitch-hike" with the locals in their speedboats, though this is not cheap and at your own risk.

Before setting off on a long journey make sure you have plenty of provisions. Rice, pasta and dried potato eaten with packet soup, freeze-dried dishes, hardtack, bread, cold cuts, müsli and plenty for a sweet tooth are standard mountain rations. Most of these products can be bought in South Greenland, but the lighter, more expensive, freeze-dried hiking rations should be brought along from home. All settlements in South Greenland have a KNI Retail Shop with an assortment roughly that of a grocer.

Accommodation
There is a big airport hotel in Narsarsuaq, two smallish hotels in Narsaq and a modern hotel in Qaqortoq. There is also a hotel mostly used by the locals in Alluitsup Paa.
"Youth Hostel" is the name given in South Greenland to a a wide range of accommodation facilities (see p. xx). In Narsarsuaq and Igaliku the youth hostels have good facilities, including kitchen, dormitories, showers, pull-and-let-go toilets, kiosk, telephone, the serving of food and hire of bed linen or sheet sleeping-bag. The youth hostels in Qassiarsuk and Narsaq have most of these facilities. This standard of youth hostel costs about DKK 150 per night. In Qaqortoq the folk high school is at present functioning as a high-standard youth hostel.

Most of the youth hostels/huts cannot offer the same facilities as Youth Hostels in the big world outside. As a rule you should not expect any great luxury, although the hostel may have considerable charm. Bag toilets, mattresses on an attic floor and fetching water by bucket from the nearest stream may be what is available. A few hostels have running water, or even more or less improvised shower facilities. Standards vary a lot.

On arrival it can be difficult to be sure you actually have come to the hostel of a sheep-farming family, as there is often no sign. Wave and knock on the door - sheep-farmers are well-known for their slightly embarrassed friendliness, even though they may not speak other languages all that much. While staying with sheep-farmers you can get to know something of their way of living, culture and everyday life. Prices are around DKK 125 for an overnight stay.
Good tips: Bring your own food and sleeping-bag. Since groups may have booked out youth hostels in advance, be absolutely sure to have a tent with you.

If you are content to sleep in some of the primitive, not always spotlessly clean huts out in the countryside, you will find that normal practice is not to lock isolated huts, and that they may be used free of charge. Inland the huts are used, especially when rounding up the sheep; on the coast they are used during hunting and in severe weather. Paraffin and food are depots and must not be used. As yet, there are no camping sites in South Greenland in the traditional sense of the word.

For those who can do without comfort and are prepared to carry their houses on their own backs camping offers a wonderful degree of freedom, as well as a number of challenges. Many tent enthusiasts have found that the super-light tent pegs were unable to cope with sudden winds. A South Greenland Föhn can easily cut into ribbons most of the lightweight materials used for tents nowadays. Take down the tent and seek shelter in the local terrain until the strong wind has died down. Tunnel-shaped and igloo-shaped tents are generally good in windy conditions.

With a few exceptions you can pitch your tent wherever you like. It is important to respect the tempting areas of cultivated land and meadows with hay grass close to sheep-farms, where grass and herbs are harvested for winter forage (indicated in yellow). Never put up your tent close to lakes and rivers above towns, settlements and sheep-farms that use the water further downstream as drinking water (indicated in hatched red). Camping is also forbidden within 20 metres of ancient settlements. You are advised only to drink running water fetched as high up the mountain as possible. This specially applies in areas where there are many sheep, dogs or horses.
Good tips: Bring sewing gear, extra tent poles and a few reserve tent pegs along with you - you cannot count on shops having specialized items.

A good place to camp will normally have level, flat terrain for pitching tents, and fresh, running water close by. The Midlands, east of Narsarsuaq, are an example of terrain where it can take a long time to find a flat spot where you can tent.

Places suitable for tenting are only marked on the map (red triangle) in cases where reliable information has been obtained, and are mainly for areas where there are few spots for tenting. In most areas there are plenty of places to camp that are not marked on the map.

DESCRIPTIONS OF LOCAL AREAS AND HIKES

Narsarsuaq and the Narsaq Peninsula

The Midlands (blue-red hiking terrain) is ideal for 2-day to 5-day trips for hikers in good shape. When you reach the plateau after the quite demanding climb from Narsarsuaq at a height of around 500 metres a.s.l. you will meet inviting hiking terrain. The central mountain ridge can be followed on either side, or you can even walk along the top. Between 500 m and 1000 m there is high-mountain terrain; the snow lies for a long time and comes early here. It can be difficult to find a good place to put up a tent. The natural place to aim for is the breath-taking view from point 1030 of the two glacier arms of the Inland Ice, which have given the Midlands its name: Kuussuup Sermia and Qoorup Sermia (Gr. "The Glacier of the Big River" and "The Glacier of the Valley"). Another possibility is a shorter hike eastwards to the vantage point overlooking Qooroq, the ice fjord.

Johan Dahl's Land (red-black terrain) is a vast, rugged, untouched landscape, sandwiched between the Inland Ice and fissured arms of glaciers. A number of large highland lakes are drained by the gushing glacial torrent of Kuukuluup Kuua, which it can be deadly dangerous. The terrain can suddenly change into very steep mountain slopes. Along Kuukuluup Kuua, for example, there can be difficult scrub. Challenging hikes for up to a fortnight are possible for hikers who know themselves, their equipment and their limitations really well. The easiest way of approaching the area from Narsarsuaq is to be taken over Kuussuaq and to spend a day travelling northwards to Qinngua. You can follow Kuukuluup Kuua up to the area around Nordbosø and Hullet, where there are two fine high-mountain lakes with active glaciers and icebergs, as well as ruins of eskimo reindeer hunters.

Qajuuttap Nunaa (red terrain) is a high-alpine area of steep mountains that sheep from the south rarely penetrate to any great extent. Qajuuttaq at the north head of the Sermilik Fjord is an obvious destination for experienced hikers. From point 510, north-west of the hut for rounding up sheep and the camping site, you can see the glacier Qajuuttap Sermia calving, causing the brash ice to form slow waves that crash onto the shore. There is also excellent char angling. The Norse Ruin proves the climate must have been much milder at one time. The area gets its name from the (legendary figure) Qajuuttaq (Gr. "porridge spoon"), who is said to have been a murderously strong, wild strapping fellow from the 18th century, with quite a lot of Dutch whaler blood coursing through his veins.

Tunulliarfik and Eric the Red's Land (green-blue terrain). The fjord and the central highlands are South Greenland's most intensive sheep-farming land. Here the many descendents of the first sheep-farmer, Otto Frederiksen, live. Everywhere in the fertile, gently-rolling countryside you come across bleating sheep and lambs, while the icebergs in the fjord turn with great crashes. There are many Norse ruins in the area, with Eric the Red's Brattahlid as the most outstanding. Practically all the sheep-farms are linked by tractor roads - and most of South Greenland's youth hostels/huts are located here. Even off the roads the terrain is generally dry and easy hiking country, although in bad visibility it can be difficult to get your exact bearings, as there are no real landmarks to look out for. As a rule it is easy to find good spots for tenting.

After you have arrived at Narsarsuaq, if you want to go round Tunulliarfik rather than start in Qassiarsuk you have to be taken across Kuussuaq by boat. About 1/2 km after the sheep-farm of Kiattuut it can be tricky finding the track. It winds its way about 50 metres up in the terrain. Qoornup Kuua can be waded across at its delta. Most of the trees in the Rosenvinge (Qanassiassat) Plantation, established in 1892, are Siberian larch, planted out in the 1950s and 1960s. Ask the sheep-farmers in Qinngua if they will get you across the Qinngua river by tractor or by boat for a small charge. Ask for permission, too, before casting your line in the glittering char waters.

In the central lowlands between Qorlortup Itinnera and Sillisit Itinnerat you can follow green routes along narrow winding tractor roads, or walk "off-piste" in the big network of sheep-tracks. Between the many small lakes, which are swarming with frisky, delicious small trout, white-tailed eagles can often be seen hovering majestically over the landscape, ignoring a band of highly annoying ravens. The classic trip (at present being marked out) is from Qassiarsuk to Narsaq. The Naajat massif with its many terraces cannot be passed at its base. At around 550 metres a.s.l. on the recommended route there is a short, steep section across a rock ledge. On your left, in the U-shaped valley and to the left of the antenna mast, you will find the easiest way up. The superb char waters of the river near Store Ilua (blue-red) can be waded across before or after the lake, as can the river 200 metres further westwards (blue).

Ilimmaasaq (red terrain) consists of barren intrusion mountains up to a height of 1,440 metres. There can be areas of treacherous jagged stones and boulders ("blokmark") on the mountain sides and in the ravines. The hardest part of the trip between Qassiarsuk and Narsaq is the hard climb on a loose surface up towards Nakkaalaaq (Gr. "The Crumbling"). Because of ferruginous minerals your compass may prove unreliable. Business people in Narsaq are hoping to export the fine drinking water from the Taseq lake. Avoid pitching camp near Taseq; choose instead the delightful camping site 1 km further eastwards. Even though the route is described, do not make the trip south around the steep Sisuugukaat, as it is both dangerous and unpleasant.

The Qaqortoq Peninsula - Igaliku. The area around Igaliku (blue terrain) is now sheep-farming land and was once a Norse domain, with the well-kept ruin of the episcopal residence of Gardar. There are various possible trips and experiences to be had, including superb char-fishing in the area around Atarnaatsup Nuua, and moonstone to be found near the north-west intrusion. The first Greenland-manufactured dome-shaped "Igdlo" tourist huts lie on the northern outskirts of the settlement.

Since it is normally impossible to cross the delta of the great glacial torrent north of Igaliku Kujalleq (Lower Igaliku), you are recommended to sail if you want to get from Igaliku to Igaliku Kujalleq. Further information is obtainable from the attractive youth hostel at Igaliku. Illerfissalik, 1,752 metres NE of Igaliku, was the Norsemen's "signal hill". Those undertaking the tough climb up (black) will understand what it must have felt like to lug firewood all the way to the top.

The classic trip (at present being marked out) goes from Igaliku to Qaqortoq. After ascending from Igaliku to about 400 metres a.s.l. in the direction of the Redekammen massif the landscape becomes more barren and rocky, but is still easy hiking, especially on the sheep-tracks. In the ravine at the outlet of the river from lake 380 there is a series of impressive waterfalls. Yet another waterfall, coupled with the view towards Vatnaverfi with its backdrop of snow-covered mountains, makes the camping site at lake 310 extremely beautiful. The Norse ruins near Sissarluttoq are passed unnoticed by most people, but are among the best-preserved - absolutely worth a day-trip.

Redekammen (red-black terrain). This ridge, at a height of 1,210 metres, is a tough, but highly impressive phenomenon - with a number of possible trips for experienced hikers who are not afraid to use their hands. There is a very good chance of finding semi-precious stones north-west of Redekammen, as well as char-angling in Lakseelv. The well-preserved Hvalsø church ruins were in 1408 the setting for the wedding of a Greenland-Icelandic couple. The description of their wedding is the last written evidence we have of the Norsemen. In 1992 a similar ceremony was held, when the then head of the regional government Jonathan Motzfeldt married Kristiana from Iceland.

Qaqortoq (red-blue terrain). From Hvalsø out towards Qaqortoq the terrain can be more difficult than it might at first seem. At certain points the land falls down sharply towards the coast, while there is "blokmark" and scrub on the slopes facing south - along Taartoq, for example. It is a good idea to follow the recommended, marked route - and the sheep-tracks when you encounter scrub. The tip of the peninsula is quite easy for hiking; the influence of the coastal climate - and human habitation - make themselves felt as you approach Qaqortoq.

Vatnaverfi Peninsula.The central lake-highlands of Vatnaverfi (green-blue terrain) consist of fertile, easily-accessible low mountains, where the blue-grey willow dominates the vegetation with its characteristic colour. Most of the lakes and rivers are clear and can be waded across without difficulty. On Vatnaverfi the dense, high scrub on the mountain sides and in the ravines are the hikers' greatest challenge. Not only sheep but scrub, mosquitoes and flies thrive in the mild climate. Lower down in the terrain it is advisable to follow the sheep-tracks. An even better idea is to climb to 300-500 metres, where the scrub is below the knee, or disappears completely. The impressive Redekammen mountain range on the Qaqortoq peninsula to the north and the fine, high-alpine massifs with characteristic tongues of glaciers in the area north-east of Qorlortorsuaq form a wonderful contrast to the mild, green expanses of Vatnaverfi. There are innumerable Norse ruins along the coast, as well as inland around the many lakes. Sheep-farming is a growing trade in the area; roads are being laid and new sheep-farms established. Practically all the lake highlands are suitable for hiking, with plenty of good trips on offer.

In the sandy valley deltas around Igaliku Kujalleq you may meet quicksands off roads and tracks. The new road to Qanisartuut gives you an easy, lovely route past the fine angling lakes of Saqquata Tasia and Tasersuaq, with the possibility of an overnight stay in Timerliit. The classic route (at present being marked out) goes from Igaliku Kujalleq to Alluitsup Paa. It takes the hiker through lake highlands at 200-400 metres a.s.l. to Qorlortorsuaq (Gr. "The Great Waterfall"). Under the impressive waterfall near the sheep-farm a hatching and mountain trout pond farm was established in 1989. The rapid expansion predicted in the stable, warm water failed to occur - and the bill for the installation turned out to be bigger than expected. The political and economic backwash of the controversial project can still be felt - but the fish continue to grow in spite of all that. The valley of Sara Nielsens Dal can be quite damp after rain. There is also quite a lot of scrub - it may be an advantage to follow the ridge along the extensive south side of the valley instead.

Qallimiut . Alluitsup Paa (blue terrain). From the small sheep-farming settlement of Qallimiut (Gr. "Those living highest up") follow the open expanses of countryside, through wide, open valleys with occasional scrub. The tributary of Kangerluluup Tasia can easily be waded across (blue). Along the lovely Alluitsup Kangerlua down towards Alluitsoq, a Moravian mission station until 1900, to Alluitsup Paa there can be stony sections. In the 18th century Alluitsoq was a magnet for people from South and East Greenland, who came to the Moravian sect's emotional, large-scale religious services. The missionary Samuel Kleinsmidt, born in the then Lichtenau, has had a profound effect on Greenland culture - among other things he created the Greenlandic written language. Alluitsup Paa is a fisherman settlement, based on Greenland halibut and cod - until the cod population suffered a sharp decrease in the last couple of decades. The fish factory now processes prawns. Alluitsup Paa was founded in 1830 and, with its present-day 500 inhabitants, is Greenland's largest settlement. To return to Narsarsuaq take the regular KNI service to Qaqortoq.


General information about hiking in South Greenland

Greenland's impressive nature has attracted hikers for decades. The high beautiful mountains, glaciers, icefilled fjords, the flora and fauna the untouched nature and the silence provide the unique experience of the arctic. The air is so clear that mountains can be seen from a distance of over 75 km and one can be in the wilderness for days without meeting other people.

Commandments for hiking
Hiking in Greenland, outside inhabited areas, is mainly for experienced hikers and provide that your physical condition and sense of direction are good and that you know how to use a map and a compass.

On longer tours you have to be able to enjoy untouched nature miles away from the nearest inhabited place. A sensible attitude to adopt is the assumption of being left completely to one's own devices. Only very limited assistance is available for the hillwalker, such as for example marked paths, designated routes, signposting, bridges and suchlike.

The following rules of the mountains are a good help when going about in the nature. By keeping these rules the risk of accidents en route will be reduced.

1. Don't start off on walks without some previous training and planning
2. Let someone know where you're heading and when you expect to be back.
3. Pay attention to the weather and the weather reports.
4. Listen to experienced hikers.
5. Be prepared for bad weather and accidents, even on short walks.
6. Always remember a map and compass.
7. Never go alone.
8. Turn back before things get chritical.
9. Conserve your strength; look for shelter while there is still time
10. Always take along the necessary emergency gear.
11. Always bring extra warm clothes - even on short day tours.

Choice of route and hiking technique
Before starting off, the route must be carefully planned. The map must be studied and a route suitable for all on the team must be found. Difficult passages must be taken under consideration before making the final decision of the route. It is important to be in good form and remember; it is your holiday! Even the weakest on the team must be able to complete the day's march without getting totally exhausted. Allow good time to complete the route and for delays so you have time to climb a mountain, see a ruin or simply stay a day or two at a beautiful spot. Allow for 1 - 2 demurrage days per week in consequense of rain, wind or fog. Avoid too many climbings and descents which will tax your energy. As a guideline you can walk 3 - 4 km per hour on even ground. You will need approx. 1 hour extra everytime you climb or descent 300 m. Take a break every hour and drink something hot or eat chocolate or dried fruit in order to avoid an insufficient blood sugar balance.

When everything is planned you must inform the authorities (the police or the tourist office) of the planned route, the estimated duration etc. - and remember to inform them when the trip is complete. The planned route must be followed as strictly as possible as this is where a search will be initiated in case of emergencies. If you are too far away from the planned route there is a risk that you will not be found.

Routes on the map
The recommended routes on the map are marked with different colors; Green > blue > red > black indicating the increasing level of difficulty. The easiest routes - green and blue - are either on or close to beaten track. Since they often follow unsurfaced roads, valleys or fjords, the need to be able to read contour lines and find one´s way and position using a map and a compass is limited, so there is little risk of getting lost. Hiking on recommended red and black routes calls for a greater sense of direction, physical fitness and hiking experience.

Sense of locality
In Greenland there are several places with lodes of ore in the underground which influences on the compass and makes it difficult to find one's bearings. As a consequence it is important to make note of the landform and the characteristics of the nature, for example a large mountain, a certain lake etc. and compare these observations with the information on the map. The routes are unmarked - only a few routes are marked with cairns. As a supplement to the compass we recommend mileometer, altimeter and protractor for maps.

In Greenland there is a significant compass declination, this is indicated on the map.

Wind and weather
The weather in Greenland changes a lot faster than is usual in other countries. The weather can change in 10 - 15 minutes. Suddenly it can be fogged and thereby be difficult to find one's way or it can be storm and be necessary to seek shelter for several hours before continuing the tour. Make sure your equipment is geared for sudden changes in the weather. Most people who suffer death in the mountains do not die of hunger but of frost. The temperatures mentioned below indicate the temperatures in the different months. However it is a good idea to bring gloves and a cap - even in the summer, as it can be very cold when the wind blows. On the other hand it can be very warm on a sunny spot - up to 20° C.
The best months for hiking are from the middle of June to the end of August.

Foehn is a dry and warm wind. It arises from a highpressure area east or northeast of Greenland from where the wind blows over the sea and crosses the inland ice towards a low pressure area west of Greenland. In western Greenland the wind comes down from the mountains as a warm, dry and often very intense wind from the south east. When the wind reaches the East Coast the temperature falls and the humidity taken up over sea falls down as precipitation. When the wind reaches the west coast the temperature rises again. The foehn can be portended by black/blue lensshaped clouds over the inland ice and fall in the barometric pressure. The temperature on the west coast rises at the same time as the foehn breaks through with great intensity. The foehn can last for days and occur several times during the same month. The wind force is at it's peak close to the ice cap and decreases as it approaches the coast. Only very few tents can stand the pressure from a foehn storm and therefore we recommend you to dismantle the tent and seek shelter behind big and heavy rocks. A foehn storm seldom lasts more than 1-2 days.

Fjordwind. The wind arises when the sun heats the rock faces and the air in the fjords. The heated air is enlarged and goes up which causes a vacuum effect right above the colder water in the fjords. Hereby wind is sucked from the sea through the fjord. The phenomenon occurs from noon to the afternoon when the heat has reached its peak. The fjord wind gives a wind force of 15 m per secund, i.e. strong breeze. Towards the evening the wind will decrease. Fjord wind only occurs on warm and sunny days.

Tide. In Greenland the difference between lowtide and hightide is approx. 3 m. This is especially important to kayakkers as it is easier to row with the tide water than against the tide water. When kayakkers go ashore it is important to place the kayak at a point where the high tide cannot reach the kayak. For hikers the tide is important when rivers are to be crossed. It is a good idea to cross rivers early in the morning before the sun melts too much ice into the river or at low tide. The tide is caused by the attractions of the moon and the Earth and does not follow the 24 hour rhytm. Therefore we recommend you to get a tide table with precise information before going on a kayak or hiking tour

Fog. Occasionally there is fog in the fjords. This is often influenced by the field ice (especially May to June). Fog caused by field ice frequently occurs in calm and cloudy weather and can last the whole day. This kind of fog is most common in the mouth of the fjords and at the coast. In the autumn (August to September) the sea fog can get all the way into the fjords. This kind of fog typically occurs in the morning, goes away around noon and returns in the evening.

Clothing and equipment
When hiking in the Greenlandic nature it is important to be able to take care of oneself as you will often be far away from inhabited areas. Therefore it is important to be prepared for an emergency situation beforehand - even if your trip is just for the weekend. Plan the tour carefully and make sure you have sufficient supplies and emergency equipment along with the ordinary hiking gear. The clothes must protect against the cold, the wind, precipitation, the sun and the heat. It is a good idea to dress so the bodytemperature can be regulated through the day. Three layers of clothing is recommended; the inner layer must keep you warm even though the clothes get wet, the middle layer must insulate against the cold and the outer layer must be wind and rain proof. We recommend you to bring:

Clothing: ·Underwear, preferably woollen ·Extra socks and soles ·Underwear with long legs and sleeves allowing perspiration to escape ·Canvas or cotton clothing ·Warm sweater or fleeced sweatshirt ·Rain and windproof jacket and trousers ·Cap and finger gloves ·Good hiking boots ·Shorts and T-shirts for warm days.

Camp cookware: ·Trangia cooking gear including sufficient methylated spirits or stove and pots including sufficient fuel bottles ·Mug, plates and cups ·Cutlery ·Bottles or thermo bottle for water ·Salt, pepper and spices ·Plastic bags, lighter etc.

Sleeping gear: ·Tent ·Sleeping bag ·Sleeping pad (insulating) ·Toilet requisities.

Security: ·Map (and an extra map) ·Compass ·Emergency radio and ANNA emergency kit ·Extra tent pegs and tent poles ·Sewing kit ·Tools for repairs ·Multi purpose tools ·Strong knife ·Extra chocolate ·Shoes for wading ·Approx. 20 m strong string.

Nice to have: ·Binoculars ·Fishing gear ·Handbooks ·Tape or plaster for blisters ·Sunglasses ·Little rucksack or hip pack ·Insect repellant ·Head net.

Footwear: Much hiking in Greenland takes place on soil that does not drain particularly well. Hiking boots of goretex are worth considering. They are waterproof while allowing foot perspiration to escape. Some chooses hiking rubber boots which are excellent on rainy days and in landscapes with many small rivers and streams.

Emergency equipment: We recommend ANNA emergency kit supplemented wih VHF radio or ELT-emergency transmitter. The ANNA kit contains, whistle, compass, flares (launching tube + cartridges), signalling mirror, aluminium foil wind sleeve, signal flag and a belt so that the kit can be strapped around the waist as well as instructions in Danish, English and Greenlandic. ANNA emergency kit can be bought at KNI shops, ship's supply stores and in some towns. They are also available from Greenlandair at the heliport or airport or at tourist offices. The kit has been designed especially for Greenlandic conditions.

Tents: In general tunnel and domeshaped tents are good in high winds. In rough weather and high winds, for example foehn, light weight tent pegs are highly inadequate. High winds can lacerate many of the lightweight materials used to manufacture tents these days. Bring a few extra tent pegs and poles - just in case.

Insects/mosquitoes: Bring sufficient supplies of insect repellants and a head net. In addition to this it is a good idea to bring loosefitting clothes that can be properly closed and tightened at your wrists or ankles. Some hikers prefer to walk in the evening/night and sleep during the day as the mosquitoes are less active in the evenings.

Supplies: On hiking tours in Greenland it is necessary to bring all provisions from home as there is little or no possibility of buying groceries en route. Shops and grocery stores in the towns and villages do not have special products for hikers and mountaineers such as for example freezedried dishes. Therefore it is important to bring food that is not too heavy and that can keep. Remember you will have more appetite when hiking - you will need around 3,000 calories per day and therefore it is a good idea to bring supplies with many carbohydrates. Remember to bring emergency supplies for extra days.

As a supplement to the freezedried dishes you can pick berries and mushrooms on the hill sides. The common berries in Greenland are crowberries and blueberries and can be picked from July. The edible mushroom sorts are roughstremmed boletus, grisette, "The Deceiver" (red amethyst cap.) and horse mushroom. Before picking mushrooms one should consult literature with pictures. In addition to berries and mushrooms the food can be varied with fresh fishes. If you intend to fish you must buy a fishing permit at the local tourist office or police station. The tourist office can also inform you on which months the arctic char can be caught and on the preserved rivers. Regarding fresh meat, this must be bought at the local market as it is forbidden for tourists to shoot quarries.

The supplies should contain abundant cocoa, coffee, tea, chocolate, dried fruit or biscuits for breaks and cosy evenings.

Regarding drinking water, Greenland has some of the purest water on Earth.

Camping and cabins
With few exceptions it is permitted to pitch your tent anywhere in Greenland, however, it is necessary to respect the cultivated areas and meadows of hay around the sheepfarming stations in South Greenland, preserved areas and ruins from ancient times as well as lakes supplying the nearby village with fresh water. Please respect a line of minimum 20 m from any ruin. The arctic nature is very voulnerable and demands extra attention and consideration. Please bear this in mind when you choose the camp site. Leave the area the way you wish to refind it and leave nothing but footprints. Burn your trashes or bring it along when the tour continues. As a general rule a good campsite is a place where the ground is flat and the pegs can get a purchase and/or a place with large boulders to which to lash the tent down. Another important consideration is a site protected by the terrain with running water close by. Avoid dry river beds or lowlying areas close to rivers as a camp here will easily be flooded in case of heavy rain. If you intend to make a campfire you should avoid making one on peat soil as fire can spread under the soil and come up weeks later at another place. Use only dry twigs or charcoal for fires. All arctic vegetation grows very slowly and it takes a long time for the nature to reestablish damages. A Dwarf birch with a stem of 5 cm can be 100 years old.

In Greenland the cabins are few and far between, however, practice in Greenland is to make remote chalets available to everyone and therefore they will rarely be locked. For the same reason comfort is sparse and chalets in this category are seldom particularly wellkept or clean. Originally the cabins were built for hunters who use the cabins on hunts far away from the villages. Overnight accommodation is usually free of charge.

Fording:
During a hike it will often be necessary to ford rivers. According to the rule of thumb, one should never wade deeper than up to the knees. Otherwise it is best to wait for the water level to drop (approx. 24 hours after heavy rain). Another idea is to follow the river upstream to a better fording place or do the exact opposite; go to the outflow and wade across at the next low tide. It is a good idea to bring along a pair of rubber shoes as special "waders" which it does not matter if you get wet. These will give you a much surer grip on smooth and sharp stones. Some form of wading stick also increases safety considerably.

Search and rescue parties
Search and rescue parties are the job of the police all over Greenland. As a general rule a rescue is free of charge for the victim. If the accident, however, was selfinduced or was due to an act of folly or the rescue party was called unnecessarily the police can issue an invoice to the victim. Each case is evaluated by the police and the police decides whether the victim must take a part of the costs.

A standard travel and health insurance normally cover rescues related to acciddents. However accidents on expeditions, i.e. crossing the ice cap or similar, demand special insurances. All insurances must be taken out before departure to Greenland.

Survival technique
When going on hikes you must always be prepared for the worst. In case of emergencies or accidents it is important to keep one's head, avoid panic and not to give up. Accidents are never the same and it is impossible to make a list of how to avoid the different types of accidents or how to behave in each situation. However, the first rule is to give emergency treatment, to stabilise the situtation and to keep the injured person warm and protected against sun, coldness rain and wind. After this you can look for help. A large team can be divided in two and minimum two persons can look for help. Remember to mark the place of the accident on the map. If you know there are other hikers in the area or you can see/hear a helicopter/ aircraft, you can use the flares or the whistle from the ANNA emergency kit.

Fire: If you have lost the last match fire can be made the primitive way by rubbing two pieces of wood against each other or by means of a burningglass from a magnifying glass, binoculars or a lens.

Finding one's way: Without map and compass it is almost impossible to find one's way. However, if you loose both of your compasses you can find the four points of the compass with a fairly accurate watch. Before noon (12.00) the four points can be found by letting the hour hand point towards the sun and halve the distance between the hour hand and the number 12. This direction is South. In the afternoon (after 12.00) the distance between the number 12 and the hour hand is South.

Being found: If you have had an accident and you want to be found it is important to draw the attention to yourself in a very obvious way. This can be done by making signals with whistle, mirrors, flares, distress rockets, SOS in oversize, flags, clothing etc. It is important that the signals can be seen from the air, as most rescue parties take place with helicopter. Do not discharge the flares until you can hear a helicopter as they only lighten for a short period. When signalling with a mirror in nice weather, an aircraft can see you from a distance of 75 km. It is important to stay close to the planned route - here a search will start. Many people are found too late because they did not make themselves visible from the air. If you are close to inhabited areas or in an area with other hikers, you can blow the whistle 6 times/minute every second minute. Answer to this signal is 3 whistles/minute.

Fishing permits
Anyone over the age of 18 who wants to fish in Greenland must have a valid fishing permit. Fishing permit can be obtained at the local tourist office or from the police.
Nanortalik is the southernmost town in Greenland and is first and foremost famous for its landscape - especially the Tasermiut fjord. Nanortalik is a fishing/hunting municipality and has a population of 2,700, 1,200 of whom live in the 5 villages. You can get to Nanortalik by boat or helicopter from Narsarsuaq or Qaqortoq.

Useful adresses:
South Greenland Tourism a/s
P.O. Box 128
3920 Qaqortoq
Greeenland
Phone + 299 3 84 44
Fax. + 288 3 84 95

KNI-Pilersuisoq (ticket office)
P.O. Box 608
DK-3900 Nuuk
Greenland
Phone: +299 2 52 11
Fax: + 299 2 32 11

Greenlandair
P.0. 1012
DK-3900 Nuuk
Greenland
Phone + 299 2 88 88
Fax. + 299 2 78 58

Danish Polar Center
Strandgade 100 H
DK-1401 København K
Denmark
Phone:+45 32 88 01 11
Fax: +45 32 88 01 01


E-mail Greenland Tourism a/s

Top of page | Main map page | Greenland Tourism Info-desk | Greenland Guide Index

Provided by Greenland Guide & Greenland Tourism
http://www.greenland-guide.dk