Facts about holidaying
in Greenland (part 5/10)
On your own in Greenland
Updated February 1996
This information is provided by Greenland Tourism a/s, the official tourist board of Greenland
Nature's own pantry
Clothing and footwear
Angling
Kayaking
Skiing
A ramble through the grandiose natural scenery of Greenland offers more than purely visual sensations and impressions. For those who are partial to the outdoor life under an open sky, the edible plants and herbs of the various areas can add an extra dimension to their walks.
Disko Bay:
- Narrow-leafed labrador tea, which with its powerful, aromatic aroma makes a good infusion
- Downy lousewort, the root of which can be eaten
- Crowberry
- Bilberry (whortleberry)
- Cowberry (mountain cranberry)
- Greenland dandelion with leaves that lend themselves well to salad
- Woolly lousewort, whose tap root can be eaten
- Sea purslane, whose fleshy leaves can be eaten
- Mountain sorrel, whose fleshy liver-shaped leaves are fresh, tart-tasting and have a high vitamin C content
- Mountain angelica, whose acidic taste makes it well suited as a spice in distilled spirits. The stem can be eaten raw
- Ladies smock (cuckoo flower), which tastes like garden cress
- Large-flowered rosebay, whose flower and leaves can be eaten raw or cooked
Central Greenland:
- Narrow-leafed labrador tea
- Crowberry
- Bilberry
- Cowberry
- Scotch thyme, which is delicious as a spice in cooking and an additive to tea
- Labrador tea, which can also be used as a herb, in tea or in a nip of the hard stuff
- Mountain angelica
- Shaggy lousewort
- Black bearberry, with mealy, red stone fruits
- Sea purslane
- Viviparous knotgrass
- Mountain sorrel
- Ladies smock
- Large-flowered rosebay
- Rose root, whose earthy stem and leaves can be eaten
South Greenland:
- Mountain angelica
- Scotch thyme
- Narrow-leafed labrador tea
- Mountainside bilberry, which together with Greenland dandelion and rose root makes a splendid salad
- Bilberry
- Crowberry
- Sea purslane
- Viviparous knotgrass
- Mountain sorrel
- Swedish dogwood (dwarf cornel), with stone fruits that are juicy and tart
- Ladies smock
- Large-flowered rosebay
- Greenland mountain ash (rowan), which is well suited to preserves and jellies
East Greenland:
- Rose root
- Sea purslane
- Viviparous knotgrass
- Mountain sorrel
- Mountain angelica
- Ladies smock
A useful book to read and take along on your hikes is "Flowers of Greenland", J. Feilberg et al.
Anyone who fancies going off on a mushroom hunt will soon find themselves on fairly familiar territory, for to a large extent, the same genera of mushrooms are found as in Denmark, and most meadows offer excellent pickings of fine edible mushrooms.
These include:
- Rough-stemmed boletus
- Grisette
- "The Deceiver" (red amethyst cap)
- Horse mushroom.
Poisonous mushrooms worth mentioning are:
- Paxillus
- Bitter-sweet inocybe
- Species of clitocybe ("funnel cap")
- Species of russula ("madcap").
The climate is generally unstable, with most precipitation furthest out towards the coast. The closer you approach the ice in the deep fjords, the warmer and more stable the climate becomes. But leaving your rainproof gear behind on a hike in Greenland can be disastrous!
First-time visitors to Greenland are often surprised at the rapid and violent moodswings in the weather. Put popularly, one answer to the question of what kind of clothing to pack in one's rucksack is: Shorts, gloves - and whatever happens to be in between; but it should all be geared to extreme climatic conditions. As things are, you will find yourself needing both shorts and gloves on the same day, plus other warm clothing. Even though it is warm during the day, there is always the risk of snowy weather. The evenings and nights are often surprisingly cold, so a warm sweater is indispensable.
Depending on the time of year and the local climate, statistics show that it is realistic to reckon on a couple of days during the week when you will be holed up as a result of rain, snow, fog or strong winds.
Much hiking in Greenland takes place on soil that does not drain particularly well. Many opt to wear hiking boots owing to the support they give the ankles and their good walking properties, while resigning themselves to the fact that their feet are not always going to be completely dry.
Hiking wellingtons are good in rainy weather and in landscapes with many rivulets.
Useful tip: Take plasters along for any blisters you develop!
Fording:
During a hike, it will often be necessary to ford rivers. It is difficult to make any general statement about fording, as the season and precipitation can cause the same river to fluctuate between a gentle brook and a small-sized river.
Meltwater rivers often cause the greatest problems. As a rule, they are murky or even downright milky white, so gauging their depth can be tricky.
Some meltwater rivers form large deltas with highly dangerous areas containing quicksand. Furthermore, they are often highly aquiferous and cold, draining off glaciers or the actual inland ice.
According to a rule of thumb, one should never wade deeper than up to the knees. Otherwise, it is best to wait for the water level to drop, follow the river upstream or do the exact opposite: go to the outflow and wade across at the next low tide.
A good piece of advice is to bring along a pair of rubber shoes as special "waders" which it does not matter if you get wet. These will give you a much surer grip on smooth and sharp stones alike, and once you have dry hiking shoes on again, you'll soon warm back up.
Some form of wading stick also increases safety considerably, as three points of support will always be better than two. Fishing rods and tent poles are often seconded, as the Greenlandic vegetation only rarely produces longer branches.
The mountain trout (or arctic char) is the predominant fish in Greenlandic fresh waters. There are two types of mountain trout in Greenland: smaller stocked trout that live their entire lives in fresh water, and sea-going mountain trout that feed in the ocean during the summer months.
Stock trout are found in a large part of the lowland rivers and lakes, but for anglers it is primarily the sea-going mountain trout that is of interest. It is to be found in virtually all rivers and water systems in Greenland, where it can migrate out to sea in springtime and reascend in late summer.
All regions of Greenland have good trout waters - ask at the local tourist office.
The trout in Greenland are attracted by net fishers and the number of speedboats is constantly on the increase. This means that the size of the fish generally increases, the further away from the towns you get.
The mountain trout is a very variable fish. Growth, color, preferred feed, and migrating and spawning patterns vary not only from northern Greenland to the warmer climes of southern Greenland but also between the outer coast and the fjord beds - indeed, even between rivers spaced just a few kilometers apart, great differences can occur.
In early summer, June-July, trout can be fished in salt waters. Points, sounds and current divides within 10-15 km of the discharge of a good trout river are excellent starting points. The trout often move along the coast in small shoals within casting distance. High or rising waters often produce good pickings. Spinner gear consisting of a coast rod of about 9 feet, long-throw spoonbait and an artificial lure of 10-25 g and line thicknesses of 20-30 mm will be quite suitable under most conditions.
During the late summer and early autumn (July, August and September), the trout makes its way back to the river.
The ascent is subject to great local variation. In the major rivers, the ascent may extend over several months. The largest fish ascend earliest. In smaller rivers, the ascent may take place over just a few days, during which time intensive fishing can be enjoyed as a result of a favorable combination of high waters, the season and rate of flow in the river.
In pools and at bends, under deep cliffs and beneath waterfalls - these are the places to look for trout in rivers.Tackle and technique must be matched to prevailing conditions, fishing waters and weather. Spinner gear often proves to be the best way of establishing contact with the mountain trout in the fast-flowing Greenlandic rivers, and spinners of around 10-15 g cast slightly upstream normally produce results.
In some rivers and when the wind is not blowing too much, however, you may be lucky enough to experience formidable fly-fishing. Dry and wet-fly gear in AFTM class 6-7 will generally do the job well.
In many instances, lakes provide fishing par excellence. Try the in- and outfeed points of rivers; there will often be good fish there.
Wellington boots are an obvious advantage; waders can improve your chances in some waters. Remember also both a mosquito net and anti-mosquito spray.
Sea-fishing for saltwater fish, Greenland halibut, catfish, cod and rose fish (Norway haddock) are best in areas of open water, which is to say the waters around Paamiut, Nuuk, Maniitsoq and up to Sisimiut in the north, and offer particularly fine fishing for Greenland halibut and catfish. In the south Greenland fjords, in Disko Bay and many other places, however, good catches can also be netted.
Most sought-after is the Greenland halibut and the three types of catfish. Rose fish, cod and American plaice (sand dab) are among the most common by-catches. Greenland halibut, mature for spawning, around the skerries off the banks of the Davis Straits can reach impressive sizes. Skerries and fjord estuaries are also the places to encounter the really big boys, with most fish here being somewhere in the range of 15-30 kg. Gravely, clayey slopes and a soft bed near the river estuary will often be good spots.
Traditionally, sea-fishing takes the form of prod fishing from vessels either drifting or at anchor, at depths of between 5 and about 120 meters. For this, a powerful sea rod and equivalent sea reel are needed, preferably a multiplier wheel in the 20-30 lb. class, with line thicknesses of 0.60 to 0.80 mm and an assortment of shiny and colored prods in the 100 to 750 g class. Bring along an ample selection of prods and extra fishing line. The sea bed can claim its victims, and the local shop cannot be expected to have your particular requirements in stock.
Prod the bait with fish flesh such as cod or red fish; fished in slow, jumpy jerks across the bed, these have proved time and again to be a superb bait for virtually all kinds of sea-fishing in Greenland.
Organized sea-fishing is only available to a limited extent these days, and you may yourself have to charter to clock up adequate sailing time. Ask at the local tourist office about the possibilities open to you. Chartering a ship in Greenland can be relatively expensive; depending on conditions, however, groups of 4-10 people will have the easiest time obtaining reasonable prices if they book in advance.
Fishing permits:
Anyone over the age of 18 who wants to fish in Greenland must have a valid fishing permit. Fishing permits can be obtained at the local tourist office or from the police. Permit A cost approx. US $35 and entitles you to fish for one month; permit B costs approx. US $85 and is valid for 3 months.
The word kayak was borrowed directly from the Greenlandic word "qajaq". For more than one thousand years, the traditional Greenlandic kayak has been of great significance as a fishing, sealing and transport vessel in the various Eskimo cultures. Greenland offers virtually inexhaustible possibilities for exploring deep fjord systems and unending skerries.
However, kayaking in Greenland also makes great demands of safety. The weather can change very quickly, and powerful winds can be critical in a small, unstable craft. There may be long, steep rocky coastlines where the shore becomes unapproachable in blustery winds. In fjord estuaries and straits, there may be powerful currents. Finding your bearings in dense fog in skerries and fjords can be particularly tricky, and even in the most unlikely places there may be hidden rocks. Some fjords produce a lot of ice periodically. In South Greenland, there may be field ice. Icebergs can tumble, glaciers can calve. Help and assistance will often be a long way off, should an accident occur. Kayaking at sea in Greenland therefore calls for great experience, a knowledge of local conditions and great respect for the whims of nature.
In Greenland, kayaking for tourists is done mainly in modern, western-produced sea or turka jackets, modern kayaks being considered safer and more comfortable than the traditional Greenlandic qajaq. Booking and additional information about seasons and extra equipment such as kayak covers, pull-on overgloves, compass, emergency radio, etc. are available on application to the tourist offices.
Kayaks for hire are currently available in:
- Ammassalik (4 one-man fiber-glass, Icelander type seagoing kayaks)
- Nanortalik (3 two-man fiber-glass, Icelander type seagoing kayaks and 5 one-man fiber-glass, both Yoo-A-Kim type)
- Qaqortoq (6 two-man fiber-glass, Yoo-A-Kim type, seagoing kayaks)
- Aasiaat (8 one-man fiber-glass, Svaldbard type seagoing kayaks)
Areas such as Kangaatsiaq, Nuuk, Kangerlussuaq and Disko Bay are now gearing themselves to hiring out kayaks, too.
The traditional Greenlandic kayak culture is currently experiencing a renaissance, with kayak clubs being set up in most major towns. Greenland championships are held in kayak disciplines such as long-distance paddling, harpoon-throwing, turning and "cross country".
The Greenlandic Kayak Association will be happy to offer guidance and collaborate on the development of kayaking as an active form of holiday. Some kayak clubs also offer tuition in sailing traditional kayaks.
In the wintertime, skiing is possible anywhere in Greenland, and there is generally no shortage of snow. In the northernmost and harshest regions, the high-season for skiing is in March, April and May, while further south it starts and finishes a month earlier. In Ammassalik, there is still snow on the ground at the beginning of June.
Excursion skiing
For anyone who has dreamt of excursion skiing in virgin territory, there are inexhaustible possibilities throughout Greenland. In the areas near towns, you can generally expect to be able to ski in the tracks of snow-scooters.
Cross-country skiing
Most central and North Greenland towns have skiing clubs, which in collaboration with the local authorities prepare cross-country ski runs. An interlacing pattern of 5-20 km slopes would not be atypical. Most major towns have piste-bullies that prepare the tracks for both freestyle (skating technique) and classic cross-country. Ski runs will often be exposed to wind, just as there may be some inconvenience from snow-scooter drivers.
Alpine skiing
The largest alpine facility in Greenland is the installation in Nuuk (1,000 m long, variation in height 300 m). Other towns with small lifts are Sisimiut, Qasigiannguit, Maniitsoq, Narsaq and Ammassalik.
The length of the lifts, descent options, quality of slope preparation and standard of service vary, but are generally on a modest scale compared with international standards.
For a number of years now, Apussuit Ski Center, approx. 35 km from Maniitsoq, has been the preferred summer skiing resort. The naturally endowed conditions are quite fantastic, but the facilities and available services are not yet what one might expect to find at an international skiing center. There are facilities for excursion, cross-country and alpine skiing over a total of 150 sq.km. of glacier.
"Kobbefjord" (Kangerluarsunnguaq) Skiing and Leisure Center is located slightly to the south of Nuuk. The facilities and skiing terrain are now altogether as extensive as in Apussuit, but in terms of transport the place is more accessible. The snow quality on the 6 km large glacier is at its best during the early summer.
In Qeqertarsuaq on Disko Island, excursion and cross-country skiing are organized as well as dog-sledding and other traditional winter activities on the Sermersuaq Glacier, which can be reached on foot in 2-3 hours from the town of Qeqertarsuaq.
Further information about skiing facilities in Greenland is available from the local tourist offices.
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