World Travel Guide

City Guide  - Rome  - Food and Drink
Food and Drink

Roman recipes are simple and - whether one chooses to dine at a top-notch ristorante, an unpretentious trattoria or a no-nonsense osteria - their success is dependent on fresh, seasonal ingredients. Meals are convivial and hearty affairs, consisting of a primo pasta course or antipasto (hors d'oeuvre); secondo meat or fish course and contorno - cooked vegetables or salad. Most restaurant meals - except the most exclusive - are accompanied with house wine (usually white). Desserts (dolce) are not common, although those made with sheep's milk ricotta from the local Lazio sheep are delicious. In summer, it is tempting to sample ice cream at local gelaterie.

Visitors unaccustomed to such lengthy meals - which can stretch from about 1230-1500 or 2130-2400 (although restaurants stop serving about an hour before closing time) - can usually skip courses without causing offence.

While southern Italy is reputedly the country's gastronomic heart, Rome (and the Lazio region) strongly adheres to its own culinary traditions, and regards food from other regions - and especially other nations - with some suspicion. Consequently, Rome is not strong in international cuisine, the only exception of note being Eritrean, Somalian and Ethiopian cuisine provided by long-established communities in the Piazza Vittorio area. Nonetheless, Rome offers variety to the connoisseur and each district of the city has its own pet dish.

The Jewish community has influenced the culinary traditions of the entire city, and is responsible for such delicacies as carciofi alla giudìa (whole artichokes cooked in hot oil until crisp and tender) and filetti di baccalà (salt cod fillets). Restaurants around the Ghetto (the area bounded by Via Arenula, Portico d'Ottavia and the Synagogue near the River Tiber) serve up authentic Roman-Jewish flavours and ambience.

Just to the south of the Isola Tiberina lies Trastevere, its winding medieval streets packed with laid-back, reasonably priced restaurants and pizzerie. Fish dishes are particularly good here, perhaps due to Trastevere's location by the Ripa Grande port.

Nearby Testaccio - east of the River Tiber - is known for dishes such as oxtail braised in tomatoes, flavoured with pine nuts, raisins and cocoa (coda alla vaccinara), said to have arisen from the local butchers (vaccinari) being paid in discarded meats. Offal is big in Rome.

Food and fiestas go hand-in-hand, and San Giovanni on the 24 June provides a good excuse for gluttony and the eating of snails cooked in tomato, marjoram and Roman mint, washed down with some traditional wine. The local wines from Cerveteri or Lake Bolsena are worth sampling. Est Est Est from Montefiascone is well established; the highly alcoholic Aleatico di Gràdoli and the white (bianco) and red (rosso) Vignanello and Vignanello Greco are promising newcomers.

Service is included in the bill (il conto) so tipping is discretionary. Not all restaurants accept credit cards. In normal circumstances, prior booking, except at top restaurants, is not necessary. However, in view of the Jubilee Year, it may be wise to book in advance.

Top restaurants cost about L100,000 (excluding wine), twice the standard price. Decent meals can be enjoyed for about L30,000 or less. Pizzerie provide excellent quality and value.

Restaurants
: Italian restaurant critics have long recognised Il Convivio, Vicolo dei Soldati 31, near Piazza Navona (tel: (06) 68 80 59 50), as one of the top restaurants in town. Chef Angelo turns the freshest of ingredients into innovative cuisine, which just about remains within the bounds of la cucina romana. Creations include ravioli stuffed with minced anchovies, topped with octopus, and seeped in fish sauce. A rarity in Rome are the superb desserts - try torrone parfait with mango sauce. An excellent meal (excluding wine) costs about L100,000. Equally good, but more international, cuisine is offered at the Pergola restaurant at the Cavalieri Hilton (see the Accommodation section) where prices are as high as the restaurant's situation - on the roof.

Romance is likely to blossom within the intimate Agata e Romeo, Via Carlo Alberto 45 (tel: (06) 66115), 'mistress'-minded by female chef Agata Caraccio. Booking is essential for a taste of the local cuisine cooked to perfection, which is then served with care and attention. Expect to pay about L100,000.

Vecchia Roma
has a slightly unfair advantage over its restaurant rivals in its wonderful setting at Piazza Campitelli 18 (tel: (06) 686 4604), bordering on the Ghetto. Dining outdoors on this fine classical Italian cuisine is strongly recommended, although prices are hefty (three courses cost L70,000-110,000). Outdoor eating can be also be enjoyed at La Carbonara, Piazza Campo dei Fiori 23 (tel: (06) 68 64 783), overlooking one of Rome's loveliest squares. The food is not bad at all, considering the number of tourists dining here. Meals cost about L50,000. But perhaps the most memorable outdoor dining is to be enjoyed at Dal Bolognese, Piazza del Popolo 1 (tel: (06) 361 1426), which draws a crowd of gourmets and a sprinkling of film stars. A hearty meal costs about L80,000.

To mix with the glam young things over seafood and fresh vegetables, try Al Ceppo, Via Panama 2 (tel: (06) 841 9696), where the prices remain affordable at L80,000 for a full meal.

Paris
, Piazza San Calisto 71 (tel: (06) 581 5378), serves Roman-Jewish cuisine, not in the Ghetto, but in Trastevere - the locus of an earlier Jewish settlement. Prior booking guarantees delights such as deep-fried artichoke (two for L18,000). Full meals cost about L60,000.

While the restaurants around the touristy Spanish Steps are expensive, the cucina romana at Al 34, Via Mario de' Fiori 34 (tel: (06) 679 5091), remains reasonably priced at L55,000 for a full meal.

Pizzas are traditionally thin and crispy in Rome, although the thicker Neapolitan variety are taking a hold in the city's numerous pizzerie. Weigh up the advantages of Neapolitan pizzas served with aplomb at the Il Forno della Soffitta, Via dei Villini 1e (tel: (06) 440 4642), against the pizza romana at Ministero della Pizza, Via dei Compani 65/67 (tel: (06) 490 217). Both serve pizzas for under L15,000.

The best of the international flavours in Rome include the Africa, Via Gaeta 26 (tel: (06) 494 1077), serving spicy Ethiopian cuisine, with vegetarian options. A full meal will set you back L40,000.

Da Enzo
, at Via dei Vascellari 29 (tel: (06) 581 8355), is cheap and always jam-packed with locals, and serves typical cucina romana at the bargain price of L30,000. Da Giovanni, Via della Lungara 41a (tel: (06) 686 1514), serves extremely cheap but hearty Roman fare for about L25,000.

Cafés
: People-watching is what the Roman café-bar is all about. Being seen can be equally important. Drinking is almost an afterthought, although the choice is wide - ranging from hot drinks (including super-strong coffee) to cold soft drinks, alcohol (beer, wine and spirits) and a mishmash of chocolates, mints, cigarettes and even ice cream. The absence of licensing laws means that drinking may begin early, but the Romans opt for coffee almost every time. Prices are usually higher for sitting down - it is cheapest to hover by the bar. Most bars do not accept credit cards.

A good place to watch the theatre of the street is the Caffè Farnese, at 106/7 Via dei Baullari, or any of the (overpriced) cafes overlooking the main piazzas. In the centro storica, the Latteria del Gallo, Vicolo del Gallo 4, is a perennial favourite with locals and tourists alike.

Sant'Eustachio
, Piazza Sant'Eustachio 82, serves up an extremely fine and frothy cup of coffee - reputedly the best in town.

Those craving a cup of tea and dainty cakes in civilised surroundings should head for the Babington at the foot of the Spanish Steps. The decor and prices are spectacular. Nearby Dolci e Doni, Via delle Carrozze 85b, is cheaper and just as good. Those prepared to ingest a more Roman experience should test the Sacchetti at the Piazza San Cosimato 61/2 in the Trastevere district. Home-prepared cornetti (the Roman answer to the croissant) fortify the visitor for the next sightseeing marathon.



Copyright © 2001 Columbus Publishing
    
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