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Home - City Guide - Amsterdam - Food and Drink | ||
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Food and Drink A hearty Dutch breakfast consists of breads (wholemeal, nut, rye or even raisin), accompanied by wafer-thin slices of local cheeses and cold meats, appelstroop (a thick syrup made from concentrated apple juice), hagelslag (grated chocolate) or a combination of any of these. Dutch coffee is strong, while tea is usually weak and drunk without milk. Lunch is likely to be a sandwich or, particularly in winter, erwtensoep, a thick broth of split peas and chunks of smoked sausage. Another possibility is uitsmijter, bread covered with sliced ham or roast beef, grated cheese and a couple of fried eggs. The main meal of the day is usually eaten in the early evening. Dutch food tends to err on the heavy side. A traditional dish is stamppot (mashing pot), made from boiled potatoes and cabbage mashed with fried bacon and served with smoked rookworst sausage. Potatoes are a Dutch staple and can be a meal in themselves; frites, served with mayonnaise, are popular. Specialities include smoked eel, raw herring (usually eaten whole with chopped onions), bitterballen (deep fried meatballs) and stroopwafels (thin waffles sandwiched together with a cinnamon-spiced syrup, best eaten piping-hot from a street stall). Indonesian food, thanks to Dutch colonial links, is almost considered to be part of the national cuisine. Rijsttafel is a delicious and colourful array of 20 spicy treats, including satays, which are served with rice and - most often - lots of Dutch beer. As a point of etiquette, it is worth nothing that the Dutch tend to eat everything, including sandwiches, with a knife and fork. Drinking in Amsterdam is a centuries old tradition, so it is no surprise that the locals have an extensive vocabulary to order a glass of beer or genever (Dutch gin). The most common word for a glass of genever is borrel, but recht op en neer (straight up and down) and kamelenrug (camel's back) - used to indicate a glass of genever filled to the brim - are also popular terms. Beer, served with a modest head, in a small glass is known as kabouter pils (dwarf beer), while a large glass is known as a vaas (vase). There are more than a thousand restaurants in Amsterdam, so diners can be assured of plenty of choice, with French, Italian, Spanish, Greek, Russian, Turkish, Irish and Japanese cuisine all represented. There is a concentration of restaurants in the city centre (main areas/streets), but there are also small neighbourhood restaurants to be found, which serve high-quality food. The Dutch eat early, so restaurants tend to close earlier than in other countries - some kitchens close at 2130. Those wishing to pay by credit card should always check that they are accepted before sitting down. Smoking/non-smoking areas are not the norm. All prices in the Netherlands include tax and tips by law; normal Dutch practice is to round up to the nearest guilder for small amounts, such as coffees, and up to the nearest five for larger amounts, such as a meal. However, tips are neither obligatory nor expected. Restaurants When the Dutch go out, they do not tend to eat Dutch food, so you may find yourself surprisingly limited if you want to sample the national fare. Haesje Claes, at Spuistraat 273-275 (tel: (020) 624 9998), is not as smart (or as expensive) as D'Vijff Vlieghen, across the road at Spuistraat 294-302 (tel: (020) 624 8369), but both offer good solid meals. At The Pancake Bakery, you will find this Dutch speciality in all shapes and forms at cheap and cheerful prices - Prinsengracht 191 (tel: (020) 625 1333). Main courses cost f17. At the other end of the spectrum is The Excelsior, in the distinguished Hotel de l'Europe at Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2-8 (tel: (020) 531 1777), which has gained a Michelin star for its haute cuisine. Another popular restaurant is the CafÉ Americain, in the Hotel Americain at Leidsekade 97 (tel: (020) 624 5322), where an excellent Sunday brunch is served in Art Nouveau surroundings. For the other 'national' dishes, try the Indonesian food of Orient at Van Baerlestraat 21 (tel: (020) 673 4958), near the museums, or Speciaal at Nieuwe Leliestraat 140-142 (tel: (020) 624 9706). If you are vegetarian, there are two restaurants that you should consider visiting: De Bolhoed Health Food Restaurant at Prinsengracht 60 (Jordaan) (tel: (020) 626 1803) and Vegetarisch Restaurant De Waaghals at Nes 102 (tel: (020) 679 9609). A couple of restaurants that are a little out-of-the-ordinary are 1e Klas (First Class), in the former turn-of-the-century first-class waiting room of Centraal Station, Platform 2b (tel: (020) 625 0131) and In De Waag, Nieuwmarkt (tel: (020) 557 9844), which is located in an amazing medieval Weigh House. CafÉs CafÉs and bars are one and the same in Amsterdam, somewhere to have a coffee during the day and a beer at night. The most famous are the small cosy bruine kroeg (brown cafÉs), so-called because their walls and ceilings have turned brown from age and cigarette smoke. Here, you will discover the meaning of gezelligheid, which is hard to translate (the closest English words are 'conviviality' and 'cosiness'). There are almost 1500 cafÉs in Amsterdam, so if none of those listed below appeal, do not despair, there are plenty more to investigate. Hoppe, Spui 18-20, is popular with business people on their way home from work; it is also an Amsterdam institution dating, allegedly, from 1670. However, the title of oldest cafÉ in Amsterdam is reserved for CafÉ Chris, Bloemstraat 42, which has been a tap house since 1624. CafÉ Luxembourg, Spuistraat 22, is very elegant with its high ceilings, but it is also very trendy - this is definitely the place to be seen. If you like to drink cocktails surrounded by parrots, head for Rum Runners, Prinsengracht 277. For a quiet glass of whisky, stop off at CafÉ de Stil, Spuistraat 326, which has over 150 varieties on display. De Kroon, Rembrandtplein 17, has a balcony overlooking the square. The Schiller Bar, Rembrandtplein 26, is a reminder of how the square looked in Art Deco times. De Reiger is a very popular brown cafÉ at Nieuwe Leliestraat 34 in the Jordaan district. For late night drinking, visit Koophandel at Bloemgracht 49. |