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Bologna has strong musical links, earning the epithet 'Italians, salute! Musical Bologna is passing!' Mozart and Rossini both studied in the city and the former was just 14 when he became a member of the city's Accademia Filarmonica, one of Europe's leading musical academies. Rossini, who hailed from nearby Pesaro, made his operatic debut here in 1814 with Tancredi and The Italian Girl in Algiers. Both works received a cool reception, in marked contrast to the Italian premiere of Wagner's Lohengrin, which delighted the Bolognese audience and ran for a record 18 performances. The rapturous plaudits stunned even the egocentric Wagner, who declared such success was only possible in a city whose motto was Libertas (Freedom). Wagner was later made an honorary citizen of Bologna, adding further lustre to the city's musical reputation.

Today, the musical tradition continues to flourish. Regular concert cycles are performed, ad hoc, in the Mozart room at the Accademia Filarmonica and in various churches around the city. Posters are pinned up outside the venue and tickets can be bought at the door. National and international rock stars frequently perform in the football stadium outside the city. Tickets can be bought at record shops around the city.

Music: The Teatro Comunale, Largo Respighi 1 (tel: (051) 529 999; website: www.comunalebologna.it), is the primary venue for opera and classical music in Bologna. Since 1763, the theatre has welcomed some of the world's greatest composers, including Rossini, Verdi and Wagner. The opera season, reckoned to be second only to Milan's La Scala, begins at the end of November and continues through to the end of June. Tickets start at L25,000 for a place in the Gods, but are often difficult to come by. The Teatro Comunale also organise prestigious concerts, both in the theatre and in local churches through September-June.

Theatre: Bologna has 14 theatres in total, offering a wide selection of drama, from Shakespeare to experimental theatre. All performances are conducted in Italian and often include dialect, so a good understanding of the language or a selfless interpreter is vital. Tickets are available at the respective box offices. The Teatro Duse, Via Cartolerie 42 (tel: (051) 231 836), is the most traditional of the playhouses, attracting Bologna's middle class with its popular repertoire of classical drama. The recently renovated Arena del Sole, Via Indipendenza 44 (tel: (051) 291 0910), offers a more diverse programme, ranging from the conservative to the avant-garde. Teatro Dehon, Via Libia 59 (tel: (051) 342 934), is the top spot for comedy. The Teatro Testoni, Via Matteotti 16 (tel: (051) 377 968), specialises in shows for children every Saturday and Sunday afternoon.

Dance: The ballet season is organised by the Teatro Comunale. Teatri di Vita, Via di Pratello 90/92, (tel: (051) 523 113), holds performances of contemporary dance and often hosts visiting dance companies from overseas.

Film: Bologna is a city of students and, inevitably, cinema is the paramount art form. Films usually reach Italy before the UK, so visitors can enjoy a sneak preview of the latest Hollywood blockbuster, or take in an arthouse picture in the original language. The Adriano, Via San Felice 52 (tel: (051) 555 127), shows films in English on Monday; and Tiffany, Piazza Porta Saragozza 5 (tel: (051) 585 253), has a Wednesday showing.

Cultural events: Bologna hosts many international festivals and concerts. Among them are I Grandi Interpreti, a cycle of concerts featuring the best soloists, orchestras and musical groups in the world, Suoni dal Mundo: a series of concerts dedicated to world music, and the Sintonia d'Assoli, a festival of jazz and contemporary music.

The Cineteca Comunale (Municipal Cinema Library) organises two international exhibitions dedicated to the visual arts: Cinema Ritrovato, which looks back at the history of cinema with a series of screenings and lectures, and the bi-annual Cinema dei Paesi Arabi, celebrating Arabic film making. Bologna Sogna is a summer-long festival comprising art exhibitions, experimental theatre, cabaret, rock, poetry and puppets, often performed outdoors.

Literary Notes
'I know of no other city with such a distinctive character,' said the German writer Herman Hesse on his visit to Bologna, in 1901. Many writers passed through Bologna on their Grand Tour of Italy in the eighteenth century. Go?the was enchanted by 'the wide porticoes that meander through most of the town, providing shelter from the sun and rain', and Stendhal called it 'a city of spirit'. Today, the city is home to the author Umberto Eco, most famous for Il Nome Della Rosa (The Name of the Rose) (1980) and Foucault's Pendolo di Foucault (Pendulum) (1988).



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