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Food and Drink Provençal cooking relies on fresh, seasonal, regional ingredients, and a daring ability to mix fragrances and flavours - lavender, mint, basil, fennel and thyme - in savoury and sweet dishes alike. Avignon's specialities include sugary papalines (chocolate and Origon liqueur encased in sugar) somewhat akin in flavour to cough medicine. The region produces Cavaillon melons, candied fruits from Apt, diamond-shaped Calissons d'Aix and honey. Truffles proliferate in the Vaucluse department, lamb comes from Valreaus, cheese from Viens and charcuterie from Mont Ventoux. Garlic is equally prevalent, enhancing the pungent flavour of the popular soupe a pistou (summer vegetable soup with basil, tomato and lots of garlic). Marseilles' influence makes itself felt and bouillabaisse (seafood soup) is a firm favourite, along with the local dish daube Avignonaise - a rich meat stew. The local vineyards produce white, rosÉ and red regional appellations: Côtes du Ventoux, Côtes d'Aix-en-Provence and Côtes d'Aix-les-Bains, Côtes du Rhône and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. CafÉ-brasseries abound in place de l'Horloge, place du Change and place des Corps-Saints, and along rue de la RÉpublique. Gastronomic restaurants cluster near the Palais des Papes, and budget options in rue des Teinturiers. Most restaurants are closed on Sunday and Monday, and many throughout August. However, during the Theatre Festival, restaurants open late daily. A cheap meal costs less than FFr80, an average meal costs FFr80-120 and a gastronomic meal costs FFr150/250 (lunch/dinner) upwards. Restaurants The jovial Christian Etienne is renowned for his refined Provençal cuisine and delectable truffle desserts served up at the ivy-clad restaurant in the shadow of the Palais des Papes, 10 rue de Mons (tel: (04) 90 86 16 50), named in honour of its chef. Menus range from FFr170-500. Prior booking is strongly recommended. Close by, within the exquisite hotel La Mirande, 4 place de l'Amirande (tel: (04) 90 85 93 93), Daniel HÉbet whips up delicacies, such as crunchy roasted foie gras tart and stewed apricots, light lemon thyme sauce and crystallised violet flowers. Menus are from FFr240-480 (FFr155 lunch menu). The intimate Isle Sonnante, 7 rue Racine (tel: (04) 90 82 56 01), serves a high-calibre menu at FFr285. Game and poultry are firm favourites and desserts are superb. Le Vernet, 58 rue Joseph-Vernet (tel: (04) 90 86 64 53), is an oasis of Provençal cooking in a restaurant with a verdant garden. The menu at FFr110 changes daily. The chef's speciality is red mullet taboulet with cumin and Avignon lamb. Traditional fare is offered at Robert Brunel, 46 rue de la Balance (tel: (04) 90 85 24 83), whose copious menu costs FFr170; and Le Jujubier, 24 rue des Lices (tel: (04) 90 86 64 08), whose Provençal dishes are about FFr65 a piece. La Cuisine de Reine, Le Cloître des Arts, 83 rue Joseph-Vernet (tel: (04) 90 85 99 04), serves up an excellent Saturday brunch for FFr120, and good seasonal menus, either in the cloistered interior or leafy courtyard. Locals also flock to the Hôtel d'Europe, 12 place Crillon (tel: (04) 90 14 76 76), for a scrumptious Sunday brunch (FFr180). Arty folk flock to Woolloomooloo (tel: (04) 90 85 28 44), housed in a former printers turned trendy restaurant at 16bis rue des Teinturiers. Lunchtime menus are FFr67 or FFr95; evening is à la carte only. Good-value Neopolitan specialities are served at O SolÉ Mio, 23 rue de la Croix (tel: (04) 90 27 94 34). For spicy Lebanese flavours try Le Byblos, 6 rue des remparts du Rhône (tel: (04) 90 16 92 91), where menus range from FFr85-120. CafÉs CafÉs spread out around the main squares in the city: place de l'Horloge, place Carnot and, of course, place du Palais. Those seeking a taste of home can try the salon de thÉ and bookshop, the Shakespeare, 155 rue Carreterie (tel: (04) 90 27 38 50), or sample the refined surroundings of hotel La Mirande's tea room or garden terrace, 4 place de l'Amirande (tel: (04) 90 85 93 93). The salon de thÉ leading off from La Cuisine de Reine restaurant, Le Cloître des Arts, 83 rue Joseph-Vernet (tel: (04) 90 85 99 04), serves excellent sweet and savoury tarts. |