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Food and Drink

With its lovely pedestrian centre, it is no surprise that diners flock to Cracow's Old Town and its choice of over 400 cafÉs and restaurants.

Although Polish food tends to be fairly heavy, with a lot of meat and fat, Cracow's cuisine shows the legacy of its occupation by the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Dishes such as goulash and paprikash are common, and Wienerschnitzel (breaded, pan-fried veal) is as likely to appear as Schabowy (pork cutlet, Polish-style).

Poland is renowned for its roast duck, and Cracow-style is to roast it with wild mushrooms and apples, and serve it with Cracovian kasha (buckwheat). The kielbasa Krakowske, a dried kielbasa sausage, is another local speciality, as is Maczanka, stewed fillets of pork joint with onion and caraway served on a roll. For dessert, visitors might try the Cracovian cheesecake or apple strudel. More unique is Pischinger - crunchy wafers filled with chocolate and a touch of alcohol.

Vodka is the most popular spirit in Poland, and the most common brand is Wyborowa. Zywiec, Okocim, EB and Lech are popular lagers. Prices tend to run in the Z7-9 range in bars frequented by tourists. A tip of 10% is customary in bars and restaurants.

Restaurants

Within the past five years or so, Cracow has literally exploded with places to eat and drink, as more and more tourists discover the charm of the city. Due to their popularity, it is advisable to book in advance for the higher-end restaurants, particularly in summer.

Without a doubt, the restaurant with the longest history is Wierzynek. Here, European monarchs dined as the guests of King Kazimierz Wielki in 1364, and it is still popular with heads of state in this century. Located at Rynek Glowny 15 (tel: (012) 422 1035), it offers sumptuous dishes of pheasant and lobster, as well as vegetarian fare, and a three-course meal costs Z100-200.

Hawelka
, at Rynek Glowny 34 (tel: (012) 422 4753), has been a popular restaurant for over a century. Its simple but well-prepared Polish food ensures that there is always a crowd, and the atmosphere is convivial. A three-course meal costs Z50-60. Upstairs is the pricier Tetmajerowska, named after the artist whose works decorate the restaurant.

More Polish cuisine, complemented by a good wine list, is available at Pod Aniolami in a cosy cellar at ulica Grodzka 35 (tel: (012) 421 3999). Specialities include sausages (Z18 as a starter), fillets and trout, all of which are grilled or spit-roasted to order (fish kebab as a main course costs Z30).

Pod Gruszka
, ulica Szczepanska 1 (tel: (012) 422 8896), is another good bet for Polish (and international) cuisine, with a focus on local specialities. It is a romantic venue, situated in a fourteenth-century house, with stucco decor by Balthasar Fontana, white tablecloths and candlelight. Main courses costs Z30-40.

A cheaper alternative for Polish cuisine is Cechowa, ulica Jagiellonska 11 (tel: (012) 421 0936), where a soup or salad plus main course costs about Z25.

Staropolska
, east of the Main Market Square, at ulica Sienna 4 (tel: (012) 422 5821), is another popular Polish restaurant, serving hearty fare such as pork or poultry with potatoes and cabbage.

Any restaurant serving vegetarian food can be a welcome sight in Poland, but Chimera, at ulica sw Anny 3 (tel: (012) 423 2178), offers guests that rarest of treats - vegetarian Polish dishes (three courses for about Z50). In addition, there is live music and a warm atmosphere, making this a popular spot. Vega, ulica sw Gertrudy 7 (tel: (012) 422 3494), is another vegetarian option, where main courses are less than Z10.

Kosher cuisine can most easily be found in the Kazimierz area, with its centuries-long history as a centre for Jewish culture. Aleph, at ulica Szeroka 17 (tel: (012) 421 3870; web site: www.ariel.krakow.pl), and its sister restaurant Klezemer-Hoif at no 6 (tel: (012) 411 1622), offer an authentic atmosphere where gefilte fish, chicken soup and other home-style foods are served (main dishes are Z8-18). Each has restored pre-war interiors, doubles up as a cafÉ and art gallery, and has a hotel attached to the restaurant. There are nightly concerts of Jewish, Gypsy and Russian music at 2000.

Most of the few ethnic restaurants in Cracow serve Vietnamese cuisine. The best is reputedly A Dong, at ulica Brodzinskiego 3 (tel: (012) 656 4872), in Podgorze.

Striking views over the river valley can be had from U Ziyada, the restaurant and cafÉ at Przegorzaly Castle, Jodlowa 13 (tel: (012) 429 7105). It is adjacent to the Instytut Badan Polonijnych (the main university conference centre), to the west of the city.

CafÉs

The romantic Old Town is the perfect setting for pavement cafÉs -there are at least half a dozen facing onto the Main Market Square. Less touristy, though, are some of the cafÉs tucked inside courtyards and down the side lanes. Jama Michalika, ulica Florianska 45, has been around for over a century, and the atmosphere and decor attest to it. It is also the venue for cabaret performances and a popular meeting place for artistic types. CafÉ Camelot, ulica sw Tomasza 17, has a wonderful rustic feel to it and there Tomasza 21, is another good bet. Away from the crowds are Rio, at ulica sw Jana 2, and U Literatow, which has a quiet rear courtyard at ulica Kanonicza 7.



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