World Travel Guide

City Guide  - Rome  - Nightlife
Nightlife

Rome may not be the hippest of capitals, but know the right places and it's possible to party the night through. Romans go out late, and the fun only really commences after dinner. The wine-bars and cafés lying between Campo dei Fiori, Piazza Navona and Via della Pace are the places to be seen. Irish pubs have also enjoyed a boom over the last decade. The biggest concentration of nightclubs lies in the Testaccio district, where a plethora of small venues offer dancing and concerts. The gay scene is alive and kicking, and accounts for many of the more avant-garde night spots. Check the weekly Roma C'è (website: www.romace.it) and Time Out Rome for 'what's on'.

The absence of licensing laws means that drinking is possible at all hours. Most wine-bars and birrerie stay open until midnight in winter, 0200 in summer. However, in general people are more interested in seeing and being seen with alcohol almost an afterthought. Romans tend to dress more casually than their counterparts in Milan and Florence, though most women do their best to look stunning for a night out.

Bars: Campo di Fiori is now the main hub of action, a trend undoubtedly initiated by the Vineria, where you can find everyone from local winos to well-known actors. Next door, the Drunken Ship, pulls a young and bubbly clientele. For something more relaxed, take a table at Enoteca La Bevitoria, Piazza Navona 72, and enjoy a glass of wine overlooking this magnificent square. A 5-minute walk away, beautiful people mingle on the terrazza of the Antico Caffé della Pace, Via della Place 5. Close by, Bar del Fico, Piazza del Fico 26/28, offers slightly more boisterous company.

Over the river in the bohemian quarter of Trastevere, Caffe di Marzio, Piazza S. Maria in Trastevere 15, is sedate and pricey, while nearby San Calisto, Piazza San Calisto, is the closest Rome gets to 'grungy' types. La Scala, Piazza della Scala, is a noisy and popular birreria serving food. Those craving a pint (and internet) should try Abbey Theatre, Via Governo Vecchio 51-53, just off Piazza Navona; for something stronger, sample the whisky and Scottish atmosphere at nearby St Andrew's Pub, Vicola della Cancelleria 36.

Casinos: Gambling is banned throughout Italy (with the exceptions of Venice, San Remo and Aosta).

Clubs: Most of Rome's clubs play mainstream hip hop, garage and house. In summer, many clubs close but numerous unofficial venues spring up around town and by the sea near Ostia. The rich and famous hang out at Gilda, Via Mario dei Fiori 97, close to Piazza di Spagna. In summer they drive out to Fregene on the coast for Gilda on the Beach, Via Lungomare di Ponente 11. Alien, Via Velletri 13-19, is brash and bold, with sexy dancers paid to gyrate to house, trance and garage. Qube, Via di Portonaccio 212, now rates as Rome's biggest underground disco, with each evening dedicated to a special theme, and gay night on Friday.

In Testaccio, smaller clubs abound. Alibi, Via Monte Testaccio 39, plays house and 80s retro to a gay crowd, while Ex-Bocciodromo, number 23 hosts various underground nights. Also 'in' are Zoobar, number 22, Picasso, number 63, Radio Londra, number 67 and Jungle, number 95.

Live music: In Testacccio, Caffè Caruso, Via Monte Testaccio 36, and Caffe Latino, number 63, both host performances from local and visiting Caribbean and Brazilian musicians, plus the odd rock gig. A few doors down, Radio Londra Caffè, number 65B, set in a WWII air raid shelter, serves food and drinks (with waiters dressed as soldiers) and also features live music. Visiting jazz stars play at Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, close to the Vatican. Nearby, Fonclea, Via Crescenzio 82A, stages rock, jazz and blues concerts, while Blues River, Via dei Alberini 35, in the Ponte Mamolo zone, is good for rhythm and blues.

For something totally different, visit the centri sociali. The most active is Forte Prenestino, Via F Delpino, where a nineteenth-century explosives depot forms an unlikely venue for concerts, cinema, and art exhibitions. Likewise, Circolo degli Artisti, recently relocated to Via Casalina Vecchia 42, offers an eclectic mix of rap, reggae, cyber punk and grunge.



Copyright © 2001 Columbus Publishing
    
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