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City Guide - Istanbul - Nightlife | ||
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Nightlife Beyo?lu has been the site of drinking, dancing, theatre, debauchery and other non-Muslim pastimes in Istanbul for centuries. Although it developed a reputation for seediness in the 1980s, Istanbul's huge youth population and the spirit of liberalism has ensured the district's recovery, with the clip joints and strip clubs rolling back off Istiklal Caddesi to make room for more nightclubs, wine bars and jazz venues. Technically, the drinking age is 18 years, but identity cards are rarely checked and there is a noticeable, even irritating, quantity of teenagers who think nothing of shelling out cover charges well over the European norm. Prices of nightspots vary hugely. The cheapest tavernas or meyhanes, such as those in the Fish Market, sell a big bottle of Efes Pils for about US$1. In nightclubs or live music bars, however, you can pay three to five times that amount, and cover charges for live music are often not displayed but turn up suddenly on your bill. Meyhanes tend to close at 2400, bars at 0100/0200, while clubs can stay open as late as 0600 on weekends. Visitors would be advised to avoid the seedier venues in the back alleys off Istiklal Caddesi, and to be cautious when a new acquaintance suggests a nightspot. Many strip shows or belly dancing clubs operate a system whereby unsuspecting visitors will be expected to pick up a huge tab for women who somehow end up at their table all night. Bars: For a relaxed drink, small bistros such as Kaktüs and Cadde-i Kebir in Imam Adnan Sokak or Cafe Urban, a converted Art Deco Jewish patisserie tucked in an alleyway off Istiklal Caddesi/Turnac?ba?i Sokak, at Kartal Sokak 6, are mid-priced European-style bistros with espresso, light meals and drinks. Pia at Bekar Sokak and Istiklal Caddesi is another good bet. Above Kaktüs, Ora is a studenty, Anatolian-style bar with cheap meals, cheap beer and Turkish traditional instruments hanging on the wall for anyone who feels like striking up a tune. Hayal Kahvesi, at Büyükparmakkap? Sokak 19, is a café-bar during the day, but live music starts at 2300, as does the cover charge. Bilsak 5, So?anci Sokak 7, off S?rasilveler Caddesi, is a relaxed, mixed gay/straight bar frequented by artsy types. Casinos: Casinos have been banned in Turkey for several years now, due to their association with organised crime. Clubs: Istanbul's clubs are for the young and rich, and are often shockingly expensive. Club 29 in Ulus Park is the most glamorous, with an open-air dance floor holding 1000 (summers only); similarly Pasha, on Muallim Naci Caddesi 142 in Ortaköy, is a very chi-chi place. Magma, behind St Antoine's Church at Akarsu Sokak 5, is primarily a gay/straight techno bar, and the recently opened Switch, at Muammer Karaca Ç?kmaz? 3, is its main 'underground' competitor. High End, at Nispetiye Caddesi 4 in Etiler, is decidedly upper class, and Rock House, at Dereboyu Caddesi 36/38 in Ortaköy, boasts a 1500-sq-metre (5382-sq-foot) dance floor. Live music: Babylon, ?eybender Sokak in Asmal?mescit, puts on adventurous experimental and jazz concerts. For live jazz, Gramofon at Tünel Square is the best, and for Latin music, Q'bana's, at Muallim Naci Caddesi 138, in Ortaköy, is an upmarket alternative. The famous Zihni Bar next door commands a fabulous Bosphorus view and is frequented by stockbrokers. Roxy, at Arslan Yata??, off S?rasilveler Caddesi, features live Turkish and international dance bands. HIP Productions (web site: www.hipproductions.com.tr) is involved in a number of concerts and clubs (such as Switch), as well as an international techno festival in September. Pozitif Promotions (tel: (212) 249 7075 or 252 5167; e-mail pozitif@turk.net; web site: www.Babylon-ist.com or www.Pozitif-ist.com), puts on the Efes Pilsen International Blues Festival in October, the Fuji World music weekends, and runs the Babylon Club. For Turkish traditional music, check out bars and meyhanes advertising fas?l, or classical romantic singing. |