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Culture Brussels' cultural life - or lives, as the scene is linguistically split between French and Flemish - is booming, in spite of a lack of funding partly caused by the language divide. French-Belgian cinema came to prominence in 1995 with Jan Bucquoy's hilarious La Vie Sexuelle des Belges, while the more serious Flemish film Daens, directed by Stijn Coninx, was nominated Best Foreign Film at the 1992 Oscars. Contemporary dance came into its own in the 1980s, thanks to Flemish choreographer Anne Teresa De Keermacker. Theatre is celebrated biannually during the Kunstenfestivaldesarts (tel: (02) 219 0707) - the next festival is in May 2001; and opera is performed at the ThÉâtre Royal de la Monnaie - whose rousing performance of an Auber opera provoked the audience into starting the Belgian revolution in 1830. Notable touring companies to perform here include the RSC and ComÉdie Française. The principal cross-cultural venue is the Victor Horta-designed Palais des Beaux Arts, Rue Ravenstein 23 (tel: (02) 507 8200), which hosts major temporary art exhibitions, French theatrical productions, classical and contemporary dance, classical music and the finals for the internationally renowned Queen Elizabeth music competition. The recently renovated Cirque Royal, de l'Enseignement 81 (tel: (02) 218 2015), allows for varied performances in the round, including classical music, dance, musicals and opera. The Halles de Schaerbeek, Rue Royale Sainte-Marie 22A (tel: (02) 227 5960), hosts large-scale operatic, theatrical and dance performances and pop acts. Flemish-language theatre and contemporary dance is well represented at the neo-Baroque Koninklijke Vlaamse Schouwberg, Rue de Laeken 146 (tel: (02) 218 3699), a venue also popular with touring English-language companies. The 'What's On' section of English-language Bulletin and the Wednesday pull-out section of Le Soir provide listings. Information and tickets are available at the Brussels Tourist Office (tel: (02) 513 8320) and the Fnac store at the City 2 shopping complex, Rue Neuve (tel: (02) 209 2239). There is a toll-free central booking line (tel: (090) 00600). Ticket prices are usually about BFr800 for dance and theatre performances; anything from BFr300 to BFr3000 for opera; and about BFr230 for cinema (BFr150 on Monday). Music: The national opera house, at the ThÉâtre Royal de la Monnaie, continues to excel. With only 1200 seats, it is best to book in advance. For Flemish opera, take a trip to Vlaamse Opera in Antwerp, Van Ertbornstraat 8 (tel: (03) 233 6685). The Palais des Beaux Arts (see above) is home to the National Orchestra and Philharmonic Society, which organises most of the major concerts in Brussels. The season, consisting of over 350 concerts annually, runs from September to June. In addition to these major venues, there is the intimate Conservatoire Royal de Musique, Rue de la RÉgence 30 (tel: (02) 513 4587), which is tailor-made for chamber recitals; and the auditorium at MusÉe d'Art Ancien, Rue de la RÉgence 3 (tel: (02) 508 3211), which holds weekend lunchtime concerts. Theatre: There are over 30 theatres in Brussels. Among the best are the French-language ThÉâtre National, Centre Rogier, Place Rogier (tel: (02) 203 5303), which puts on polished renditions of classical European theatre. Innovative productions are performed in French at the ThÉâtre le Public, Braemt 64-70 (tel: (02) 223 2966). Literary discussions and readings take place at the ThÉâtre-Poème, Rue d'Ecosse (tel: (02) 538 6358). The one venue not to be missed is the ThÉâtre de Toone VII, Petite Rue de Bouchers 21 (tel: (02) 511 7137), where classics such as Faust and King Lear are performed by marionnettes manipulated by seven puppeteers in French (peppered with local dialect), Flemish and (occasionally) English. Dance: De Keermaecker's Rosas company is closely linked to the ThÉâtre Royal de la Monnaie (see above), while the works of radical choreographers are often put on at the Lunatheatre, Place Sainctelette 20 (tel: (02) 201 5959). Although contemporary dance is extremely strong in Brussels, there is no dedicated dance venue. An interest in classical dance is best pursued at the Royal Ballet of Flanders in Antwerp. Film: About 50% of films are shown in English ('VO' - version originale) with French and Flemish subtitles. Programmes change each Wednesday. Hollywood blockbusters and Saturday midnight previews are shown at the 12-screen, ultra-modern UGC De Brouckère, Place de Brouckère 38 (tel: (02) 0900 29930). The UGC Acropole, Galerie de la Toison d'Or 17, is another mainstream venue, but also serves up cinema and breakfast (combined ticket: BFr240) from 1000 Saturday - Les Petits DÉjeuners du CinÉma. State-of-the-art Kinepolis, Boulevard du Centenaire 20 (tel: (02) 474 2604), in Heysel, boasts 28 auditoriums and Europe's largest IMAX screen. The centrally located Actors Studio, Petite Rue des Bouchers 16 (tel: (02) 512 1696), is one of the main venues for the Brussels Film Festival in January, and Brussels Festival of Fantasy Film, Science Fiction and Thrillers in March. Cultural events: Brussels is still basking in the glory of its status as City of Culture for the Year 2000, when a year-long programme of opera and art were built around the theme of 'The City'. Each year Brussels is at the heart of a lively cultural calendar, including the spectacular Ommegang procession in July and Meyboom celebration in August (see Special Events section). Literary Notes Brussels sheltered Karl Marx in exile and it was here that he wrote the Communist Manifesto in February 1848. Victor Hugo was temporarily protected at Place des Barricades 4, before being exiled once again for protesting about the Government's ban on refugees. Perhaps the best literary ambassador of Brussels is the boy reporter Tintin, created by HergÉ (Georges Remy, 1907-1983). Brussels-born Jacques Brel - the celebrated singer-songwriter of Ne Me Quitte Pas (Don't Leave Me 1959) has been adopted by the French as their own, as has detective writer Georges Simenon, Marguerite Yourcenar and other Belgian luminaries. But Belgium developed its own national literary identity during the Symbolist movement and writers like Emile Verhaeren, Charles Van Lerberghe and the Nobel Prize-winner, Maurice Maeterlinck, created a misty, dreamy ambience for Art Nouveau Brussels. This taste for the fantastic and otherworldly, hidden in the hearts of staid Brussels burghers, was continued by Henri Michaux and the surreal visions of Magritte and Delvaux. This vision was shared by comic artists too. Belgians have commandeered the francophone comic book industry: HergÉ is just the tip of the iceberg, proof that Belgians do whimsy and goofy charm far better than the French. |