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- Newsgroups: rec.radio.shortwave
- From: mb@sparrms.ists.ca (Mike Bell)
- Subject: PRO-37 Scanner Modifications (Long)
- Date: Tue, 24 Sep 91 13:32:11 GMT
-
- MODIFICATIONS FOR THE PRO-37
- ----------------------------
-
- The disassembly instructions are based on the excellent PRO-34 instructions
- provided by Chris Scholefield (chriss@mid.com). I have added my own
- comments.
-
- First of all, what modifications are possible?
- ----------------------------------------------
-
- The PRO-37 uses a diode array to l tell its microprocessor what model it
- is, and thus which frequency bands to allow and what channel spacing to
- use. European and Australian models have full 800 MHz coverage (at an
- unknown channel spacing) and a VHF-Mid band (68-88 MHz) rather than a
- VHF-Low band (30-54 MHz).
-
- The Canadian and US models differ in the amount of care taken to reduce
- EMI. The Canadian model has additional screening, and one or two other
- minor component additions to achieve this. Therefore, if you have the choice,
- the Canadian model is preferable to the US model.
-
- Changing from VHF-Low to VHF-Mid band coverage requires many
- component value changes (and realignment of the appropriate RF stage).
- Given that the PRO-37 uses SMT technology, it's not worth trying.
- (You can change the diode array easily enough, but just don't
- expect reasonable performance!)
-
- The only sensible (straightforward) modification is the restoration of
- full 800 MHz coverage on Canadian and US models. The ranges restored
- appear with a 30kHz channel spacing - which just happens to coincide
- with the N. American cellular telephone channel spacing. A remarkable
- coincidence.
-
- The modification described is therefore applicable ONLY to Canadian and
- US models. (European and Australian readers could always remove
- 800 MHz coverage if they wished:-).
-
- You will need:
-
- Soldering iron - with a fine point. (The components desoldered
- and soldered are not SMT, but ....)
- Desoldering tool - to remove excess solder
- Philips screwdriver - if it fits the screws on the back of the
- case it's the right size.
- Small pliers - bending component leads while unsoldering
- and removing hexagonal posts
- Earthing wrist strap - strongly advisable with CMOS components.
- (Static can cause premature, if not immediate
- failure of components). Wear this at all
- times.
- Small screwdriver - for prying components etc.
-
- Experience and confidence in working with modern electronics
-
- A couple of hours without interruptions...
-
-
- Instructions
- ------------
-
- 0. READ THROUGH ALL OF THESE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING!
-
- 1. Remove the battery
-
- 2. Remove the antenna
-
- 3. Pull to remove squelch and volume knobs
-
- 4. Unscrew the 4 screw on the back of the case
-
- 5. Separate the case beginning at the battery end and work over the circuit
- board and knobs at the top
-
- 6. Unsolder both connections to the antenna - ground can be bent away and the
- centre has a link to the board
-
- 7. Unsolder the two power switch links at the board end
-
- 8. Unsolder the ground connections to the metal shield
-
- 9. Disconnect the two connectors to the squelch and volume controls
-
- 10.Remove 4 hexagonal posts
-
- 11.The top board may now be removed by separating it gently from the
- connector on the adjacent board
-
- 12.Remove 3 screws holding the shield in place
-
- 13.Lift the shield to separate it from the lower control circuit board
-
- 14.Identify diodes D12,D13 on the control board
-
- 15.EITHER cut the diode D13 and SKIP to reassembly OR continue to desolder diode
-
- 16.Remove last two screws and remove control board. Take care not to
- dislocate the KEY LOCK switch when doing this.
-
- 17.Unsolder screening from side of control board near diode array,
- and bend back out of way.
-
- 18.Unsolder and remove diode D13. Keep it somewhere so that you can replace
- it if required to do so by US legislation.
-
- Reassembly is the reverse of the above procedure.
-
- If you performed steps 16-18 CHECK REALLY CAREFULLY that the metal part of
- the KEY LOCK switch is in the right location. (Otherwise, you may find
- yourself having to disassemble the whole thing again - I know, I did!)
-
- NOTES.
-
- 1. One must exercise great caution in the procedure. Check that no flakes
- of solder get dropped on the boards. Take anti-static
- precautions by doing the work on a mat and wearing a wrist strap. Do
- not make any adjustments to the upper analogue board or bend any of the
- other wire links on it, which are tuned circuits.
-
- 2. Another caution is that doing any of the work will probably violate
- any warranty you may have on the scanner. Might be worth burning the
- scanner in for ~150 hrs before attempting this to reduce the risk of
- a latent component fault appearing after you have made the modification.
-
- 3. YOU PERFORM THE ABOVE PROCEDURE ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK. You may
- wish to obtain a copy of the PRO-37 Service Manual from Radio Shack
- before attempting this. (Cost about $20 - well written - just wish
- I could afford all the service gear required!)
-
- 4. If you happen to find out what adding D14 does (another difference
- between N. American and European/Australian versions), I'd be
- interested to know. It's not mentioned in the service manual. I think
- it could affect 800 MHz channel spacing - any info on the European
- Australian PRO-37 specs in this area would be appreciated.
-
- 5. If you found something wrong in the above instructions, let me know
- and I will try and post an update.
-
- 6. If you found all this helpful, help someone else and donate $5.00
- *today* to your favourite charity.
-
- Share and Enjoy!
-
- -- Mike -- <mb@sparrms.ists.cao