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The more cats in a household, the greater the degree of interaction * CHEMICAL ATTRACTION OF PREVIOUS "ACCIDENTS:" 1. likely to produce repeated visitations to the same spot 2. may induce urination by other members of a multi-cat household 3. you may have moved to a residence previously occupied with other dogs and/or cats Treatment: * Rule out medical problems FIRST 1. complete history and physical 2. stool/GI workup for diarrhea (if needed) 3. urinalysis for inappropriate urination to rule out an infection 4. workup for polydipsia/polyuria 5. important to check all cats of a multi-cat household a. last cat seen misbehaving may be responding to chemical attraction and not be an instigator b. more than one cat could have problem 6. treat/correct medical problems first. Behavioral problems can only be diagnosed in a healthy cat * Territorial marking: 1. neuter all cats (check history of neutered cats; retained testicle in male or signs of heat in female) 2. prevent other cats from coming around outside of house, close windows, blinds, and doors 3. prevent overcrowding in multi-cat households * Litter box problems: 1. provide a box for each cat 2. change litter daily 3. provide constant access to a box 4. go back to previously used brand of litter and/or discontinue new disinfectant 5. move box to where it was previously used 6. eliminate new or frightening noise near litterbox 7. move food and water away from litterbox 8. if cat is only going in one spot, put the litterbox at the exact location and gradually move it back to where you want it at the rate of one foot per day 9. if there are several places, try putting dishes of cat food in those areas to discourage further elimination there 10. experiment with different textures of litter (cats prefer sandy litter) 11. use a covered litterbox for cats that stand in box but eliminate outside of it * Psychological Stress: 1. eliminate if possible 2. try to provide each cat at home with its own "space" a. use favorite resting areas to determine b. provide separate litterboxes near each space if possible c. cubicles, boxes, shelves, crates are effective for this 3. tranquilizers sometimes work well in multicat situations * Chemical attraction: 1. dispose of all soiled fabric or throw rugs if possible 2. 50% vinegar or commercial products may be used 3. steam cleaning may help 4. repellants may help 5. do not replace carpeting until problem entirely solved or it may start all over again on your new carpeting * Confinement: (In portable kennel with litterbox, (with appropriate corrections) to stop further inappropriate behavior while medical and/or other problems are being treated.) 1. particularly beneficial for transient stress induced problem 2. may allow acclimation to stress situation where source of stress cannot be eliminated 3. procedure: a. choose an area that can be a permanent location of litterbox b. keep cat confined to this area 4-6 weeks when not under your direct visual supervision (if your cat attempts elimination outside of kennel when you are watching, squirt with water pistol as soon as elimination posture is attempted and put cat back in kennel) c. if cat is using box regularly for 4 to 6 weeks when not under your gradually give access to larger and larger areas of your home, one room or hallway at a time (1) allow 1 week of good behavior in the new area before adding the new room (2) never increase access area until you are 100% certain cats use of litterbox is 100% (3) if accident occurs, re-evaluate this material to make sure litterbox problem or something else didn't trigger d. begin confinement over again and double intervals for relapses * For inappropriate urination problems in which all else fails and the alternative is euthanasia, hormone therapy may be attempted. 1. only for neutered cats 2. only 50% effective 3. side effects may include increased appetite (common), depression or lethargy (less common). Long term use might have side effects such as: mammary enlargement, adrenocrotical suppression, and diabetes mellitus. 4. usually requires lifelong maintenance on regular intermittent basis 5. very dangerous drug; use borders malpractice -- should be reserved for cats who will be put to sleep if problem is not solved a. immunosuppressive b. weight gains predisposing to obesity c. mammary gland development d. feminization of males e. may induce latent diabetes 6. dosage is initiated daily for 7 day trial; if effective, then dosage is tapered to least pyometra (pus in the uterus) g. hypercalcemia (high blood calcium) h. others * TERRITORIAL MARKING: 1. intact female in heat 2. intact male spraying 3. marking of peripheral walls particularly near windows may be from presence of outdoor cats 4. may be triggered by over-crowding of indoor cats 5. previously neutered cat has a bit of testicular or ovarian tissue remaining, possibly resulting in a low level of hormone which could trigger marking 6. neutered male with sexual experience exposed to female in heat * LITTER BOX PROBLEMS: 1. overcrowding: too many cats using same box 2. failure to change littter frequently enough -- some cats won't use a dirty box 3. failure to provide constant access to litterbox 4. change in type of litter used 5. change in location of litterbox 6. unfamiliar, frightening, or loud objects near box: dishwasher, etc. 7. food and watary, through the doorway so that it sticks out on both sides. * A particular spot may be favored, for no apparent reason. There may be some odor at that spot. Try cleaning it thoroughly with an enzyme-based cleaner like Nature's Miracle and then spraying a touch of Bitter Apple or the equivalent on the spot. P. Closet Antics. Cats love closets, since they're dark hidey holes full of fun stuff. But you may not want your cat to swing on your good silk clothing or rearrange your shoes. Conversely, you might want your cat to be able to get into the closet and keep larger pets out. If you have a swing-and-shut door, you might try a cat door to allow the cat access. A child-barrier that lets the cat jump over but not the dog is another possibility. Or a chain (like the chain some front doors have) might work. A solution with closets that have double sliding doors is to drill a hole through the area of overlap, with the doors positioned closed or partially opened as you wish. Then you can use a nail or a peg in the hole to keep the doors in position. V. PROBLEM BEHAVIORS (OUTSIDE) A. In General. Outside cats, especially those not your own, can present you with difficult problems. Cats are not regarded the way dogs are under law: there is nothing that says you have the "right" to keep cats out of your yard, for example (whereas dogs can be required to be kept confined or on leash, for example). There are historical and practical reasons for this -- but there are still practical steps you can take to resolve several problems. This section is written primarily for people who want to stop other cats (i.e., not their own) from being a nuisance on their property. B. Noise. Mating cats can make an unbelievable amount of noise under your window. If these cats are feral, check with your local animal clinic about trapping and neutering these cats. Many will do them at little or no cost, depending on how many cats you're willing to bring in for the procedure. Eliminating the breeding stock in feral cats as much as possible will also help reduce the stray population in your area over time, and reduce similar problems like cat fights and spraying. C. Your Garden. Between digging and eating in your plants, cats can do considerable damage to a garden. There are a number of ways to keep cats from digging in, chewing on, or eliminating in your garden. Some people have successfully used the "diversionary" tactic by planting catnip in another corner of the garden entirely, confining the destruction to one spot. If you have not yet started your garden, put chicken wire down and plant between the wire. Cats dislike walking on the chicken wire and most plants (unless they grow too big) do just fine growing between the wire. Other people have reported success with different sprays, gels, and products specifically formulated to keep animals out of your yard. Check your local pet store. Lemon peels, soap slivers (use biodegradeable soap) dipped in cayenne pepper and other organic materials have also been reportedly successful. Cats hate water: surprising them with a squirt gun (or turning your sprinklers on) can discourage specific cats from returning. D. Local "Attack" Cats. Sometimes there is a problem with a particular cat that fights with other cats. If it is feral, try to make arrangements to neuter it, if possible. If it belongs to a neighbor, try to discuss the matter with your neighbor, and avoid being "threatening." When approached reasonably, most people can be reasonable in turn. Sometimes your neighbor just doesn't know his cat is bothering you. If the cat actually follows your cat through the pet door, you might try an electronic pet door to keep it out (see Pet Doors). E. Your Birdfeeder. Locate your birdfeeder in an area where the ground is clear, affording cats no cover. At the same time, try to locate it *under* something, like a tree, to provide refuge from attack by other birds. F. Keeping your cat in your yard. Cats are very good at scaling fences. But if you have a yard that is otherwised fenced in, you can try keeping your cat from going over the fence by attaching corrougated fiberglass to the top of it. There is then no purchase for the cat to pull itself up. It is even possible to find different colors of the fiberglass to keep it inconspicuous. Keep in mind, though, that many cats are clever climbers and high jumpers and may circumvent anything short of a yard totally enclosed and roofed over with chicken wire. VI. ENTERTAINMENT A. Scratching Posts. You can order a large catnip tree from Felix (1-800-24-Felix), especially if you cannot make one on your own because of lack of skill, time, or workspace. Cats especially enjoy being able to climb up and down these structures. Big ones should be bolted to the wall for stability. Most pet stores sell these things. Expect to pay no more than US$100 for a good sized one. Look for sturdiness and balance. Sisal has been recommended over carpet for a scratching post cover. Cats seem to like the texture better, and it helps avoid confusion over which carpet is the "right" carpet to scratch. You can also buy rectangular chunks of catnip-treated corrugated cardboard scratching 'posts', available at pet supply stores for about US$8 each. They can be either hung from a door, tacked to a wall or just laid flat on the ground. You might have to "show" them how to use them. Most cats love the texture of the cardboard (as well as the 'nip). You might try used automobile tires placed upright and tied securely. Cats that like horizontal scratching posts jump up on it and scratch and cats that like vertical scratching posts stretch up and scratch. The tires can be bare or themselves covered with scratching material. In addition, cats have fun going through and around the tire. Other readers have reported using wooden boards wrapped several times around with burlap. The burlap can be replaced as it is shredded. B. Catnip and Valerian. Catnip is a plant that causes various reactions in cats. Very young cats and kittens will not be affected by catnip. About 20% of cats are never affected by catnip. It is not known why or how catnip has the effect it does on the rest of the cat population. It is a non-addictive "recreational drug" for cats with no known harm to the cat. There was an article in _Science_ [exact reference?] on the neurological effects of catnip on cats. It seems to stimulate the same pleasure centers in the feline brain that orgasm does. Most cats "mellow out" and become sleepy and happy, others start acting very kittenish. A small percentage will become possessive of their catnip and may snap or hiss at you. You can find wild catnip plants in most weedy areas, and harvest the seed. Or you can buy seed from companies like Burpees or Parks or Northrup King -- most garden centers have catnip seed this time of year -- check the "herb" section. Or even seed racks in the grocery and discount stores. Catnip is easy to grow. You will need to keep the plant itself out of the reach of the cats as catnip-lovers will quickly destroy it. The best strategy is to get some growing, and then pinch and prune it regularly and give the harvested leaves to your cat. Keep it in its own pot, as it will spread rapidly. Cats will tend to dig up transplanted catnip and eat it roots and all, but are much gentler on plants started from seed. The leaves have to be bruised to release the odor, and transplanting seems to be enough bruising... Nepeta cataria is the common catnip; other Nepeta species have varying amounts of "active ingredient". A good one is Nepeta mussini, a miniature-leaved catnip that makes a good rockgarden plant. Nepeta is a genus of the Lamiaceae (=Labiatae), the mint family. There are about 250 species of catnip, plus a bunch of hybrids between species. Only about 10 are available in this country, though. You can order from Burpee (215-674-9633) Nepeta cataria B61424 $1.25 N. mussinii B38828 $1.45 Valerian root is an herb with effects very similar to catnip and generally makes cats a bit nuts. It is however not as readily available as catnip and perhaps a bit more potent than catnip. Catnip and Valerian both act as sedatives on humans. C. Other Toys. In general, cats perversely favor the cheap homemade toy over the expensive supermarket toy. Toys commonly mentioned foil or paper balls, superballs, little plastic rings from milk jugs, ornaments on christmas trees, pencils, paper bags, cardboard boxes, Q-tips, cat dancers ... the list is nearly infinite. A new "cat toy" seems to be the production of videotapes for your furry feline. Tapes of birds and mice complete with intriguing noises have kept several reader's cats entranced. If your cat seems to like watching TV (some do), this might be fun for your cat. Don't give it access to your remote, though. Take sensible precautions with toys that can injure the cat: avoid toys small enough to be swallowed or choked on; avoid toys with loose or potentially sharp parts; avoid toys that can strangulate the cat or shred the intestines if swallowed (including string and rubber bands). Put strings away when you are not at home. D. Playing. Most cats will love playing with you. There is the usual string or ball chasing; a few will even retrieve thrown items. "Hide and seek" and "Peekaboo" are also popular. Cats commonly display interest by dilating their pupils; look for this to see what catches its attention. Cats will often display behavior commonly called "elevenses," since it seems to occur most often around 11PM. This consists of the cat's eyes dilating, its tail poofing out, and alternating between hopping sideways and racing all over the house. Your cat wants to play. Take it up on the challenge. Chase after it, play hide and seek. This can also be useful; playing with a cat just before bedtime reduces the chances of your cat wanting to play with you at 3AM. VII. CHANGING ENVIRONMENTS A. A New Baby. Cats can become jealous upon the arrival of a new baby. Reassure the cat that you still love it by paying it plenty of attention. In the exhaustion and turmoil of a new baby, the cat is often neglected, and this will add to its resentment. There is a myth that cats will kill babies. The superstition is that they'll "steal" the baby's breath; the latter day explanation is that they will lie on babies and suffocate them. While cats may like the baby's warmth and may curl up next to it, it will not often lie on the baby and in any case will move when the baby begins to flail its arms and legs. Most cats are trustworthy around babies after getting over any jealousy, especially if it is trained not to use people as toys; however babies should *never* be left unsupervised around *any* animal. B. Travel. 1. Cars Cats generally don't like travelling in cars. For short trips, put them in carriers to prevent accidents such as getting in the driver's way, or escaping when the door is opened. Some cats are more calm if kept in a pillowcase or a soft gym-bag type of carrier. For long trips (all day or more), use cat carriers, minimize food intake beforehand, and give water every time you stop. Consider getting harnesses and leashes for when you stop. Most motels allow cats. Sometimes you can use temporary fencing to block off the back of your car to give them a roomier "cage"; you can usually then put litterboxes down instead of keeping them for pit stops. Tranquilizers can be obtained from the vet, but not all cats react well to them, and they may make a trip worse than it would have been otherwise (test the cat's reaction to them beforehand). Many cats will sack out after a few hours on the road. For long-distance trips, make sure the motels take cats beforehand. Some do not, and are very nasty about it if you try to beg a room. AAA lists motels that accept pets. You might want to carry along water from your home, especially if you are traveling between states. Ice cubes in the water dish allow your cats to have water without it spilling while you're driving (and helps if its hot, too). If you're traveling in the summer, make sure the cats get lots of air or air conditioning in the car. carry an umbrella or other shade-making device in case you have a breakdown. Keep alert to where the sun is shining in your car (i.e., is it beating down on the back seat where the cats are?) 2. Trains Trains vary widely whether or not animals are allowed on passenger cars. Amtrack does not. British Rail permits cats in a basket or cage placed on the floor, seat or luggage rack. The Swedish railway company allows pets in the smoking section of the car, although pet/non-smoker compartments have been recently introduced. 3. Planes All major airlines allow cats that fit with carrier underseat according to the same dimension limits as for underseat baggage. Most airlines will tell you the cat has to be able to stand up in that carrier but won't enforce this. The pet area is not cargo, it's pressurized but possibly not heated or cooled. Get nonstop flights since the airplane has little climate control for pets or passengers while on the ground. Airlines aren't permitted to take more than one cat per carrier except for kittens. You must call ahead, usually only one carrier is allowed in the cabin, the rest must go into the pet area. Tips: * Try not to travel when temperatures are outside the 40-80 degrees F range at either end of the flight or at any stops in between. * Try to travel at off-peak times to minimize delays. * Use a sturdy kennel with proper ventilation and room for your cat to stand, turn around, and lie down. * Try not to tranquilize your cat unless absolutely necessary. Some airlines are better than others. Delta and United have failed to follow standard procedures to protect animals in inclement weather and as a result many animals have died on their flights. They are being fined $300,000 for this negligence by the U.S. Dept. of Agriculture. American, Continental, Pan Am, and TWA have also been fined. The ASPCA has brought charges in about 50 cases in the past five years. Much of this information can be found in "Pets on Planes: Too Often it's a Rough Ride," _Conde Nast Traveler_ magazine, June 1992. C. International Travel. A partial list: most states require a health certificate and proof of rabies vaccination for pets crossing state lines. Most airlines will require this regardless. Hawaii and Britain have a 6 month quarantine for all pets entering either island (the chunnel may change Britain's policy in a few years). Canada has a 4 month quarantine [I think?], except from the US, where rabies vaccination documentation is sufficient. Scandinavian countries have a three month quarantine, with exceptions for animals from rabies-free countries such as Britain and Australia. Australia accepts animals only from rabies-free places and even these animals have a four month quarantine. Some sources have cited different lengths of time from different acceptable countries, eg, six months if from Britain, but this is unverified. There is unrestricted travel between Australia and New Zealand if the animals have been in New Zealand for at least six months. It is unclear what New Zealand's policy is. US to Australia: The key to bringing cats into Australia is that you cannot bring cats from mainland US *directly*. You must go through an intermediate stop, London or Hawaii. Hawaii is more popular, it has a shorter quarantine and makes a warm vacation spot. In Hawaii, the cat must be in official quarantine for 4 months, followed by another 30 days in a commercial kennel/cattery. The cat can then be brought into Australia, but faces another 4 months of quarantine here. So the total takes 9 months (and a fair investment). D. Moving. Again, there are a variety of responses to a change in home location. Some cats do well, others are a nervous wreck for several weeks. By keeping your cat at someone else's home during the actual move-out, you will keep it out of the way, prevent accidental escape or injury, and spare the cat the trauma of seeing its world picked up and carried out. Once at the new place, keeping it for a day or so in one room of the new place before allowing it out to explore will alleviate its anxiety. In any case, be prepared for up to several weeks of "slinking" and hiding until becoming accustomed to the new place. If you have an indoor/outdoor cat, you will want to keep it indoors for about a month before you let it out. Cats have a homing instinct that takes about a month to "reset". If you let it out before this time, the cat may become disoriented and get lost, or make a beeline for the old home. E. Vacations. When you go on vacation or otherwise will be absent for some period of time, you must make provisions for your cat. It is a good idea, whichever solution you use, to inform your vet that you're on vacation and to take care of your cats in any case that comes up and you will settle the bill when you get back. Let the sitters know, too. 1. Leave at home In most cases, you will be able to leave your cat alone for three to four days with no supervision provided that it has an adequate supply of food and water. If your cat does not free-feed, this may not be at all possible. 2. Pet sitters Find a friend (or a company that provides this service) who will drop by your house at least once a day to feed it, water it, and generally check up and play with it. This is the least traumatic method for the cat since it will stay in familiar territory and has the added bonus of your house looking occupied. Check to make sure that the professional service you use is bonded, and interview the person beforehand. Check references that they supply. You can call the local humane society, animal rights groups or vets to find a recommended sitter. These groups can often recommend good sitters, and just as important, warn you off particular companies that have had complaints. 3. Kennels Experiences have ranged from good to satisfactory to terrible with kenneling cats. It will depend a good deal on your cat's personality and the kennel. Look for a kennel that is clean and is attentive to its boarders. Look for personnel that like playing and otherwise caring for animals. Be wary of kennels that are not clean and cheerful. Some have reported that their animals came home with diseases; check the kennel's policy regarding these matters. Some may involuntarily dip their clients; check for this also. Check for noise, too. 4. Take Cat With You See Travel. 5. Leave with Someone Else Find someone willing to take your cat in while you are gone. Your cat will have to stay somewhere new for a while, but this can be convenient, and especially if it always stays with that person while you're gone, its adjustment can be quick. VIII. OTHER TOPICS A. Removing Urine Odor. For fresh urine: clean the spot with any good carpet shampoo (Spot Shot is one). Then soak it with plain old club soda, leave it for about ten minutes and blot it up. If the urine has soaked the pad and the floor below that, it will be difficult to remove the odor regardless of what you use. To find spots if you're not sure where they are, get a UV lamp that has the filter built in (to eliminate any remnant visible light). Urine fluoresces in "black light." You can get them at hardware stores. There are also UV lamps in hobby stores and places that cater to spelunkers and rockhounds, but they're more expensive. The UV source is safe as long as you use the longwave lamp and not the shortwave lamp used for tanning. 1. Enzymatic products Products that remove odors: Nature's Miracle (carpet, has 800 number); Simple Solution (carpet and other items); Outright! (carpet); Resolve (carpet, perhaps other items); Odor Mute (originally for deskunking dogs, has other applications, leaves white residue, works on concrete). Odor Abolish, by Endosome Biologicals, may also be useful. These products use enzymes to break down the odor causing compounds in urine and feces, and are quite effective. When using enzymatic products, it is important to use freshly diluted enzymes, let it soak in as deeply as the urine has penetrated, and *keep the area warm and wet for 24 hours*. Chemical reactions, including enzymatic reactions, go faster at higher temperatures. Unfortunately, most enzymatic reactions don't do well much over 102F (38-39C)-- so not TOO hot. Try covering the area with towels soaked in plain water after applying the enzyme, then a shower curtain or other plastic over that to make sure the area stays moist. The enzymes in laundry products are the same as those in the expensive odor-killing products, but they cost less than 1/3 as much. They work just as well. Biz is one product. You'll find it in your grocery laundry section with the pre-soak laundry stuff. Remember, you have to SOAK the area and then cover it to keep it from drying out. The smelly area must be WET with the enzyme for 24 hours or more. 2. Launderable items On launderable items: put in the washing machine with a cup of vinegar and no detergent, then wash again as usual. 3. Concrete If you have concrete (eg, in the basement) into which urine has been soaked, this can be difficult to remove, as unsealed concrete is very porous. You will have to neutralize the urine and then seal the concrete properly. A specialty cleaning service is probably the best way to properly neutralize the urine in the concrete. Vinegars and other cleaners may help, but only temporarily. Odor Mute is reputed to work on concrete. Improving the ventilation may also help. In extreme cases, pouring another 1/4-1/2 inch layer of concrete over the original concrete will solve the problem. 4. Hardwood floors Hardwood floors that have been stained with urine can be difficult to clean. First treat with an enzyme-based product such as Nature's Miracle to remove the odor. You can find wood bleaches and stains at your hardware store: you may want to consult with one of the employees on what is available. You will need to remove any varnish or polyurethane from the area, sand it down a bit, bleach and/or stain it, and then apply the protective coat. There are also professional companies you can consult. In severely stained cases, you may have to replace the wood. B. Cat Owner Allergies. In general, keep the cats out of the bedroom. If cats can be trained to keep off the furniture, that also helps. Substances like Allerpet C can be used on cat's fur to dissolve some of the dander and protein from the saliva that people are allergic to. Long haired cats have more area to deposit their saliva on and they have to be brushed (putting more dander in the air), so short haired cats are better for people with allergies. Clean and vacuum often; groom and brush the cat (outside if possible) often so its hair-shedding around the house is minimized; and bathe the cat regularly. Some people are simply allergic to new cats. This kind of allergy means that it will diminish with repeated exposure. Thus you will not be allergic to cats that you are exposed to regularly; and actually become allergic to your own cat if you're away from it for some time. Washing hands frequently helps with this type of allergy. Other people are allergic to the saliva on the cat's fur. A remedy for this is to bathe the cat once a month. No soap is needed, merely soak the cat thoroughly. Done on a monthly basis, it seems to keep the saliva levels down to a tolerable level. This was reported in a scientific journal somewhere; Cat Fancy covered it a few years ago. [exact reference?] You may be allergic to cat hair, in which case you may want to get one of the breeds of cats with short, little, or no hair. There is a hairless cat, the Sphynx, and there are breeds of cat which are entirely lacking in the kind of hair (cats have four kinds of hair) most people are allergic to. These are the Cornish Rex or Devon Rex breeds, and their fur is short and curly. You could go to an allergy specialist and get shots to help you with specific allergies. This can be expensive, but worth it, especially if you have other allergies as well. They'll test you for the things you're allergic to, and then give you periodic shots to help you develop an appropriate immunity to them. Be sure to find a specialist familiar with cat allergies: many will simply recommend you get rid of pets. Also, don't expect miracles. They can do a lot for you to reduce your allergies, but sometimes they can't track down a particular one, and sometimes it takes more than "just shots" to deal with an allergy. The magazine _New Woman_ (October 1992) has an interesting article about a cat-allergy vaccine. Catvax is being developed by the Immulogic Pharmaceutical Corporation (I.P.C.) in Cambridge, Massachusetts, and is now being tested on humans at Johns Hopkins University. Tests on animals indicate that Catvax is different from traditional cat-allergy shots in two ways. First, unlike conventional allergy therapy, which involves biweekly or weekly injections for up to a year, the vaccine may be able to completely prevent allergic reactions after just a few injections. Second, studies suggest that the vaccine will not produce allergic side effects, such as asthma, that traditional shots often do. I.P.C. hopes to complete its human studies and have the vaccine on the market by 1996 or 1997. There is an informative article "When Humans Have Allergies: Ways to Tolerate Cat Allergies," in _Cats Magazine_, April 1992. The August 1992 issue of _Cat Fancy_ contains an informative article; the September 1992 issue has a survey of people's experiences with allergies and what worked for them. C. Cats and Water. There are breeds of cats with an affinity for water. There have been reports from rec.pets.cats readers about cats getting into showers with them; other anecdotes have been very entertaining to read. Most cats, whether or not they like to get wet, will be fascinated with watching water drip out of faucets or drain out of tubs, sinks, and toilets. Reports of cats drinking from the bottom of the shower, from the sink and other unlikely places are common. Some cats can be fussy about water; they seem to like it as fresh as possible, preferably still moving. You may be able to stop some of this behavior by changing the cat's water every day and moving it some distance away from the food dish. In general this habit will not hurt your cat, however unpleasant it may look to you. Toilet water drinking *should* be discouraged, but this is easily done by leaving the lid down. D. Indoor and Outdoor Cats 1. Pros and cons There are a good many arguments for keeping them inside. They will live longer since the chances of being hit by a car, hurt by other people or animals, or infected with contagious diseases from feral cats will be minimized. On the other hand, cats derive much pleasure from exploring around outside. 2. Compromises Often, a satisfactory compromise is to allow the cat out under supervision. This can be done by either letting them out into a fenced yard (although if you leave them out there, they will probably eventually climb the fence), or using a harness and leash. To use the latter, accustom them to the harness first, in the same way as a collar. Then accustom them to the leash by leaving it on for short periods of time. Then take them outside, and follow them where they go (do not try to take them "on a walk"). 3. Pet doors Pet doors are a good solution for people tired of letting cats in and out. There are many kinds of doors, including those that fit into patio doors without requiring a hole cut through the wall or door. You may have trouble with other animals coming in the door, or want to let your dog but not your cat use the pet door. The solution is an electronic pet door. The door has a lock that is deactivated by a magnet that selected pets wear on their collar. Look under Pet Supplies in the yellow pages. If you can't get one locally, call "America's Pet Door Store" toll free at 1-800-826-2871 for a catalog. Electronic pet doors are installed much like a regular pet door, but you plug them in. The door itself needs a firmer push to open than most. A great feature is the 4-way lock. The lock can be set so the cat can 1) go both in and out 2) go in only - great if you want to catch them 3) out only 4) totally locked. Doors cost about US$80-US$90. E. Catching Feral Cats. On occasion, you may want to catch feral cats. They can be very difficult to catch. When it seems to be impossible, call your local humane society or SPCA to see if you can borrow a humane animal trap. Some places allow you to "check out" such traps, just like books from the library. A little food for bait, and you've got 'em. F. Finding A Home for a Cat. For whatever reason, you may need to find a home for a cat. List everywhere: newspaper, bulletin boards, computer bulletin boards, newsletters, anywhere you like. But limit sharply: don't adopt out if they don't meet standards. Minimal standards: will neuter as soon as the cat's old enough, committed to a 20 year responsibility, they have a home or apartment that permits pets, knowledgeable about cat health and behavior or committed to become so. Do charge a nominal fee, at least US$10, unless you know the adopter well; this keeps away those collecting animals for research. (You can donate all or part of the money to animal causes if you like.) G. Dealing with Landlords. A number of landlords initially say "no pets" but change their minds when assured that the cat was well-behaved and assured of an extra damage deposit if necessary. Also, it seems like many landlords are more likely to approve of a cat if you make it a condition of signing the lease, rather than if you ask if it's OK to get one after you've already moved in, or if you try to sneak one in without asking. Try to prove that you are a responsible owner (photos of last house, references, vet records, etc.) to help win your case. For more ideas and tips, look up Dog Fancy, Volume 22, No. 8, August 1991, "Breaking Barriers: How to find an apartment that allows dogs," by Amanda Wray. H. Pet Insurance. In the August issue of Cat Fancy, there is an article discussing health maintenance plans for cats that is set up between your vet and yourself and then administrated by this HMO company. The company is called RLI Planned Services in Peoria, Illinois. The article included a sample plan. For $75 a year, your cat receives: BASIC HEALTH CARE: 1 physical exam, no charge 1 FVRCPC booster, no charge 1 Rabies booster, no charge 1 FeLV test, no charge 50% off FeLV series Fecal analysis, ear flush, worming, no charge 1 Pedicure, no charge MAJOR ELECTIVE PROCEDURES: Spay or Neuter, 40% off Declawing, 20% off Dental Prophylaxis, 50% off (anesthesia included) HEALTH SURVEY: Radiographs, 20% off EKG, 20% off Chemistry screen profile, 20% off Complete blood count, 20% off All other medical, surgical and hospital services (except prescriptions and diets) are 10% off. (All of these things are included in this HMO for $75/year. OR $125 for two years.) Here's the company's address: RLI Planned Services Inc. Dept. CF 9025 N. Lindbergh Drive Peoria, IL 61615 The article says to ask your vet about this program. If he/she isn't familiar with it, they should contact the company and see about setting up the HMO plan. Vets also may be able to direct you to other pet insurance plans that they know about. You may want to consider that $100/year over an expected 15 to 20 year lifetime is $1500 to $2000. Plus whatever you have to pay for excluded costs, coverage limits, deductibles. Pet insurance will help with major medical problems such as FUS, cancer, etc, or emergency care. If your pet is basically healthy, you will pay about as much either way, for insurance or for preventative care that keeps it healthy. (continued) ---------------- This article is Copyright (c) 1993 by Cindy Tittle Moore. It may be freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice is not removed. It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in commercial documents without the author's written permission. This article is provided "as is" without express or implied warranty. Cindy Tittle Moore Internet: tittle@netcom.com USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716 ----------------