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بt$`~t6t$PvWt$PvWƨt3$"t$t$ ƨt$PvW9&t~t9&>zu$PvW$PvW$PvWw$PvWh9&>ju9&X&&$ډFVRP9&69&6$PP%Pvv vvvW%PvW9&6&69&6&6:&6&6#%Pvv vvvWB:&6&6:&6&6:&6&60%Pvv vvvW=%PvWD:&&&(0T|RPE%Pvv vvvW vW" 9&$PP] FpP FVv~vvO%PvV vV" PvVj! FPQ\%QJ] PvV" PvVJ] PvvvJ] F~~;~v^^؋NJ*3QNJ*&3ZF;v|։~v] v_%PvV PvV" PvVJ] FF=vP FVvv`  t 2PP]  :&uvv`  t|] u t 3P( -*ui%PvV vV2 ui6`#6^#vVF  uN6p#6n#vvF  t~9&X&&e%PFPW ƋFv2PP] 9&X&&V\2PP]  :&u9&X&&ˎ9&X&&k%PFPV NjFvW 3^_]U WVFdžPƆ{dž8o%:dždž@~%BdžD%FdžH%J+NL9& & vx~prt89 +&G&n9&9ptH9&9vt=PP9&6&6`%P9&6&6ZT %P| T :&P FVpP FV+FF{{<vv~uZ6`#6^#%P~V P~V" P~VJ] nn, Marsha Jo Hanna, Patty Hansen, Vicki Holzhauer, Sharon Hope, Stephen Hutchinson, Marianne S. Jocha, Deirdre A. Johnson, Jennifer L. Johnson, Laura Johnson, Valerie Johnston, Jay Kadis, Kate (and Ebony), Teresa C. Kelly, Joyce L. King, Ms. Kitty, Kay Klier, Eunyoung Koh, David Kosenko, Jon Krueger, Karen Kruger, Amy Kurtzman, Angi Lamb, Marie Lamb, Tracey Dianne Layng, Jane Lecher, Kristen Lepa, Dave Libershal, Ann Lindstrom, Betty R. Lipkin, Joann Loos, Sandra Loosemore, Terry Lundgren, Jill McAllister, Bill McCormick, Rudolph T. Maceyko, Steven Matheson, Chris Mauritz, merle@unx.sas.com, Debbie Millard, Carol Miller-Tutzauer, Ruth Milner, Anne P. Mitchell, Don Montgomery, Pauline M. Muggli, Linda Mui, J.B. Nicholson-Owens, Carla Oexmann, Didi Pancake, Jeff Parke, Pamela Pincha-Wagener, Randy Price, Lisa Purvis, Thomas Oates, Lianne Raley, Steve Reinhardt, Eric D. Remington, Elisabeth Riba, Aristea Rizakos, Ann Roberts, Roger Rosner, Gary Sarff, Jane Schreiber, Jen Schmidt, Deb Schwartz, Elizabeth Schwartz, Paul Silver, Maureen Smith, Michele Smith, Steve Snyder, Debbie Spark, Paul Spencer, Catharine (Cat) Stanton, Larisa Stephan, Sheryl Stover, Lon Stowell, Cyndie Sutherland, Lilly Tao, David Thomas, Kristin J. Thommes, "Trish," vandpykt@kepler.me.orst.edu, Carolyn Waite, John Werner, Ferrell S. Wheeler, Christine White, Robyn E. Williamson, Jean Wilson, Julie Wolfenden, David Wright, Pamela Blalock Wybieracki, Frank Yellin, Rich Young, an Cindy Zimmerman. Extra thanks to Jon Krues Plants. Q. Finding a Lost Cat. R. Cat Static. S. Preparing Food for your Cat. IX. RESOURCES A. Electronic Mailing Lists. B. Literary. C. Books. D. Articles. E. Catalogues. Prologue. Rec.pets.cats is a newsgroup devoted to domestic feline issues. The group has been characterized as friendly and helpful. Flamewars are limited to two, possibly three, topics: cats on vegetarian diets, declawing cats, and sometimes whether to keep cats indoor only or allow them outdoors as well. New readers are advised against starting these topics up. The facts pertaining to each of those topics, as well as many others, are in this document. This newsgroup was formed in the summer of 1991. It is a splinter groups from rec.pets, which originally carried the feline topics. Adi Inbar and others initially proposed the split, and Inbar collected the votes, which proved enough for its official creation. My thanks to Robin Bush for providing the initial push to put this FAQ together. My thanks also to the following people who contributed topics and material to put this FAQ together: Ann Adamcik, Annick Ansselin, Rona Bailey, Michael Barnett, Kathy Beatty, Sally C. Bemus, Jon Berger, Lisa Berkenbilt, Harlan B. Braude, Carol A. Buckner, Robin Bush, Jack Campin, Barbara Carlson, Teresa C.D. Carstensen, Mark Chadwick, Catharine Chalek, Paul Chapin, Gayle Chidester, Janet Christian, Joni Ciarletta, Linda Cornell, Ruth Croxford, Carol C. Denehy, Diana (CatWoman), Jean Marie (Ambar) Diaz, Denise DiGiovanni, Debbie Douglass, Pam Draper, Dick Dunn, Ann-Cathrin Englund, Nancy Feagans, Karen Fegley, Sandra F. Feldman, Jamie Ferguson, Cristina Ferla, Ted Feuerbach, Sandy Fifer, Cliff Frost, Chris Galas, Michael Gemar, Sally George, Michael Gerlek, Margaret D. Gibbs, Kathleen Gittel, Diane Gibson, W.K. Gorman, Caroline Granzeau, Jerome Grimmer, D. Dale Gulledge, David H., Pam Hassell, Leslianne Heimbeck, Ceci Henningsson/Klussma its sides and hold each set of legs with each hand. Elevate the legs slightly (as if you were rolling it on its back). You may need to watch for biting. Roll your hand or arm under its chin to prevent this. This may loosen the grip on the front claws; you'll have to decide which presents more danger. A helper can now look at the cat. You can wrap the cat in a towel (but this presents difficulties if you want to get at part of the cat covered by the towel). You can utilize the reflex triggered by firmly holding the scruff of its neck (do NOT lift it up!). This will cause most cats to sit very still, but may not be sufficient for some cats or for high stress situations. You can also get a cardboard cat carrier and (if possible) put the cat in the carrier and brace the carrier against your knees. The cat will back up to the corner in the carrier; grasp the cat firmly on the nape of the neck and hold on (if someone can help you, have the person grasp the nape and the butt of the cat, holding it in the box). II. BASIC CAT CARE A. Cat Food. 1. Premium cat food Although more expensive than average brands, these foods are often better for your cat. They are low-bulk, which means that cats will digest more of the food, thus eating and eliminating less. They contain little or no dyes, which can be important if your cat vomits regularly (easier to clean up); probably also good from a diet viewpoint. Examples of these kind of brands include Hill's Science Diet, Iams, Wysong, Nature's Recipe (Optimum Feline), and Purina (One). These foods are also beneficial for the cats coats and many readers have attested to their cat's silky fur on these diets. 2. Cat food composition The Guaranteed Crude analysis provides more nutrition info than you can get on the vast majority of human foods. If you want more, ask the vendor. E.g. Purina is 800-345-5678. Any major commercial cat food is formulated with either natural ingredients (including meat byproducts which supply nutrients to cats that meat itself doesn't since cats in the wild eat the whole animal) or are supplemented with the required nutrients to make them balanced diets for cats. 3. Wet foods Canned foods contain quite a bit of water. It is expensive. Tartar build-up may be a problem. Smell (of the food, the cat's breath, or the cat's feces) and gas may be a problem. The food can spoil quickly. The dishes will have to be washed every day. Stools will be softer. On the other hand, cats that have medical conditions requiring higher water intake may benefit from the water in these products. 4. Dry foods Cats will require more water on this kind of diet, but tartar-buildup may be lessened as a result of crunching on the kibble. Generally less expensive and less smelly. Dishes will remain clean and food will not build up nor spoil quickly. Stools will be firmer. 5. Moist foods These are "soft kibble". The benefits are difficult to ascertain. They are more appealing to humans than anything else. There is no anti-tartar benefit and not much difference from canned food. They are fairly expensive. Some are actually bad for your cat: proylene glycol found in these products (as a preservative) can damage red blood cells and sensitize the cats to other things as well. (Source: August 1992 edition of _Cats Magazine_.) 6. Snack foods Many snack products are out there for cats. Most are fine as supplemental feeding, but of course they should never take place of regular food. In addition, these products can be useful in training. 7. Milk Most adult cats are lactose intolerant and drinking milk will give them diarrhea. Otherwise, milk is a nutritious snack. Cream is even better than milk -- most cats can handle the butterfat just fine and it's good for them. A small serving of cream will satisfy the cat more than a saucer of milk and will contain less lactose. 8. Homemade Food. Check Frazier's _The New Natural Cat_. She gives a number of recipies and general information on making your own catfood and on what foods are good for sick cats. A number of cat books contain recipies for making your own supplemental snack food. These can be fun to make and give to your cat. 9. "People Food." It is a poor idea to feed cats table scraps or food from your own meals. First, table scraps do not meet your cat's nutritional needs and only add unneeded calories or undigestibles to its diet. Second, you risk having your cat become a major nuisance when you are eating. Stick with prepared cat treats. Any food you give it should be placed in its food dish, or you can give it treats as long as you are not eating or preparing your own food. That said, there is a pretty wide variety of food that cats will eat and enjoy. Rec.pets.cats abounds with "weird food" stories ranging from peanut butter to marshmallows. 10. "Cat Grass." Cats benefit from some vegetable matter in their diet. When devouring prey, the intestines, along with anything in them, will also be eaten. Many owners grow some grass for their cats to munch on, both for a healthy diet, and to distract them from other household plants! In general, seeds that are OK to grow and give to your cats (but do not use treated seeds, identifiable by a dyed red, blue or awful green color): oats (cheap, easy, big), wheat (not wheatgrass) Japanese barnyard millet, bluegrass, fescue, rye (but beware of ergot, which is a fungal infection and produces LSD-like chemicals), ryegrass (annual ryegrass is cheap and easy to grow, but small), alfalfa sprouts or bean sprouts in SMALL amounts (these have anti- protein compounds that reduce the protein value of other things fed to the animal (or human!)). Seeds that are NOT okay: sorghum or sudangrass, which have cyanogenic glycosides, and can cause cyanide poisoning. These are commonly found in bird seed and look like smallish white, yellow, orangish, or reddish BB's, or the shiny black, yellow or straw colored glumes may be intact. 11. Dog food Dog food is not suitable for cats since it does not have the correct balance of nutrients. Cats need much more fat and protein than dogs do. B. Diets, inc. Vegetarian Diets. You can feed your cat in one of two ways. One is to put down a set amount of food at specific times of the day. This is necessary if the food will spoil (canned food, for example) or if your cat will overeat. Some cats *do* overeat, do not be surprised if this is your situation. Put it on a fixed schedule to avoid weight problems. Do *not* assume a cat will only eat what it needs: if it starts putting on too much weight (check with your vet), give it two feedings a day, putting down half the recommended daily amount each time. The other method (called "free-feeding") is to leave food available all the time. The food must be dry to avoid spoilage. There is no preference between the two; it will depend on your cat and the food you give it. You may need to change your cat's diet for any number of reasons. Often, you will find that your cat refuses the new food. Don't worry. Leave food out and keep it fresh until your cat is hungry enough to eat it. Your cat will not be harmed by several days of low food intake: as a carnivore, it is biologically adapted to going without food for several days between kills. If you give in to its refusal to eat the provided food, your cat has just trained *you* to feed it what it wants. If you need to decrease the total amount of food the cat normally eats, the best way to do this is to reduce the amount of food gradually. This way, you don't have an upset cat after it's meal. If you have a cat that bolts its food down (and throws it back up), you can slow its eating down by placing several one to two inch diameter clean rocks in its food bowl. Picking the food out will slow it down. Be sure the rocks aren't so small it could eat them by accident. If you have multiple cats, and one of them requires special food (from medical to weight-loss diets), then you must go to a fixed feeding schedule to ensure that that cat not only gets the food, but doesn't get any other food. If you have been free-feeding, switch them over. Don't put out any food the first morning; that evening, put out the dishes and supervise the cats. They will most likely be hungry and eat most of the food. Take the dishes up after 1/2 hour or so and wait until morning. Thereafter, remain on the morning/night- or even just night- scheduled feedings and your cats will adapt quickly enough. If you have trouble with one cat finishing quickly and going over to feed on other cats' food, you will have to put them in separate rooms while feeding. As for vegetarian diets, cats require the aminosulfonic acid taurine, which is unavailable in natural vegetable except for trace concentrations in some plant sources like pumpkin seeds; not enough to do a cat any good. Lack of taurine can cause blindness or even death by cardiomyopathy. There are also a few other similar nutrients, such as arachidonic acid (a fatty acid only found in animals), but taurine is the most widely known. Some small manufacturers claim to have produced synthetically-based supplements that when combined with an appropriately balanced all-vegetable diet will provide the complete nutrition required by cats. No one has been able to find studies which demonstrate that cats which eat such a diet over the long term stay healthy. Some references (books, articles, and mail-order companies) are included at the end of the FAQs. C. Litter. 1. Kinds of Litter There are various kinds of litter available. * The traditional clay based litter is the most common. This is composed of clay particles that will absorb urine. In general, you need to scoop out solid matter regularly, and change the litter entirely once a week or so. Variations on clay particles include green pellets (resembling rabbit food) or shredded cedar (like hamster bedding). * There is an expensive cat litter available that solidifies urine into little balls. This way, the urine can be scooped out along with the feces. In theory, you never need to change the litter again, you only add a little more to replace the loss to cleaning out the urine and feces (which offsets the initial cost). Sometimes the clumps break apart and there are some "extra strong" varieties to address this problem. The litter is sandy and tracks rather easily. Some cats seem to develop diarrhea with this litter; some people are rather allergic to the very fine dust from this type of litter. * There is a non-sandy clumping litter called "Booda's Ultra Clump"; a drawback includes the clumps sticking to the pan itself (baking soda, pan liners, or small amounts of sandy clumping litter will remedy this). But it eliminates the tracking problems of the sandy kind of clumping litter. (It looks like regular clay-based litter.) * 4060 grade sandblasting grit made out of corncobs is an inexpensive alternative to clay-based clumping litter. It clumps as well as the flushable kind of clumping litter, and also smells better. It isn't available in all areas. In Ohio, The Anderson's General Store chain carries it for around US$10 for a 50 lb. bag, comparable to plain clay-based litter. * Coarse corncob litter (commonly sold as "animal bedding and litter" by pet suppliers) about the size of peas, can be used. This is used in conjunction with a litter pan that has a screen and a drain pan underneath, into which the urine drains (and feces are removed as normal). It is almost completely dust free, unlike clay-based litters. * "Good Mews." It is pelletized organic cellulose fiber ("scented with cedar oil--a natural flea and tick repellent"). It absorbs up to 1-1/2 its weight in water. According to reports, it is not dusty, sweeps up/cleans up easily, does not track, and does not cling to the tray when moist. * There is at least one brand of litter that is intended for multiple cat households. This is Max Cat's Multi Cat. Reports are that it pretty much works as advertised. This is a clay-based litter. Another way to control strong ammonia smells is to mix baking soda in with the litter. * A litter called "PineFresh" is a natural pine wood litter that comes in little pellets. The pellets disintegrate in the urine and solid waste is scooped out. It's a bit expensive, plusses are described as: you don't have to change the litter as often provided the solid waste is cleaned out daily and the disintegrated stuff is sifted out twice a week. There is virtually no odor and no dust and it comes with a money back guarantee. It flushes just fine down non-septic systems. The product is manufactured by: Cansorb Industries 555 Kesler Road Cleveland, NC 27013. * Plain sawdust or wood shavings can be used as litter. Some cats may not like it, since it doesn't absorb as well and may feel wet. But it is very cheap. Take care not to use cedar shavings. Some cats seem to prefer certain kinds of litter over others, you may need to experiment. 3. Disposal When disposing of litter, it is best to wrap it up in two bags and tie securely, for the benefit of the garbage collectors. For disposal of solid matter, it is best to put it in the trash in a bag as well. Some people flush solid matter, but be aware that septic tanks will not do well with clay litter pieces (even the small amount clinging to scooped items). Clumping litter is supposed to be flushable, except with septic tanks. Do not use kitty litter as a fertilizer in your garden. It is not a manure since cats are not vegetarians and should not be used as such. It can be incredibly stinky, can attract neighborhood cats, and there's a chance that it would be unhealthy for your plants and for you (if you eat fruits/vegetables which were fertilized by it). Keep in mind that when an outdoor cat "uses" your garden, it usually varies its poop-place and so there's not a concentration of feces, whereas if you dump litter, it's usually concentrated in a single spot. 4. Litter boxes Cats can be fussy about the cleanliness of their litter box. Many people scoop solid matter out on a daily basis. If a cat is displeased with the litter box for a variety of reasons ranging from cleanliness to the type of litter used, it may well select another spot in your house more to its liking! Litter boxes are shallow plastic pans. Some cats have a tendency to scatter litter outside the box when they bury their stool. This can be solved by getting a cover for the cat box, commonly available at pet stores. Another way to minimize litter tracking is to put a rug, especially a soft rubber one, just outside the litter box. For easier litter-changing, some owners will use litter box liners. Some cats rip these while burying their feces; if the problem persists, just don't use liners. To contain litter tracked outside the box, it is often worthwhile to put the litter pan in a larger shallow cardboard box that will collect most of the litter stuck to the cat's paw pads when it jumps out. Keep the area around the litter box as clean and free from spilled litter as you can. This helps the cat distinguish from outside and inside the litter box. Guess what can happen if this distinction is not clear. If you have multiple cats you may have to put out several litterboxes. If you have a young cat and a large house, you will either need to place several litterboxes down so that there will be one near enough at any point or you will have to confine the young cat to an area of the house within easy reach of the litter box. Disinfect the the litter box and top (if any) on a regular basis to prevent illness and disease. Bleach is a good disinfectant around cats, although you should be sure to rinse thoroughly and air out all the fumes. Do NOT use pine-oil based cleaners as these are toxic to cats. 5. Toilets It is possible to train a cat to use the toilet rather than a litter box. One book is _How to Toilet Train Your Cat: 21 days to a litter-free home_ by Paul Kunkel, published by Workman Publishing, 708 Broadway, New York, NY 10003, and simultaneously published in Canada by Thomas Allen and Son Publishing (no address given). ISBN no. 0-89480-828-1. Cost, $5.95. The cat must be well trained to the litter box first. Move the litter box into the bathroom next to the toilet. Little by little (2 inches every two days) raise the litter box until the bottom of the litter box is at the level of the toilet (seat down, lid raised). Then slowly move the litter box over to the top of the toilet. This accustoms the cat to jumping UP to the toilet to eliminate. When the cat is comfortable with this, cover the toilet (under the seat) with strong plastic wrap like Saran wrap and fill the middle with litter. Decrease the amount of litter until the cat is peeing into the plastic and then make a hole in the middle of the plastic so the cat gets used to the sound of urine and stool hitting the water. Sooner or later you eliminate the plastic. 6. Placement of litter box Beyond making the litter box readily accessible to your cat, there is some consideration as to an aesthetically pleasing placement. Utility closets that the cat can always access are useful. Laundry rooms work well, bathrooms less well (especially in guest bathrooms). One suggestion was to build a chest with an entrance at one end big enough to contain the cat box. The chest can be displayed like furniture and yet be discreet. If you can't build a chest yourself, it should be relatively easy to saw an opening in the side of a pre-made chest. D. Dental Care. 1. Tartar buildup Cats, like humans, have tartar buildup on their teeth called plaque. An accumulation of plaque can lead to peridontal (gum) problems, and the eventual loss of teeth. Plaque is a whitish-yellow deposit. Cats seem to accumulate plaque primarily on the exterior face of their upper teeth. Reddened gum lines can indicate irritation from plaque. Some cats are more prone to plaque buildup than others. Some never need dental care, others need to have their teeth cleaned at regular intervals. Many vets encourage you to bring your cat in annually for teeth cleaning, using a general anesthetic. The cost, which can be considerable, and the risk of the anesthesia itself are both good incentives for doing some cat dental care at home. If you must have the vet clean your cat's teeth, see if your vet is willing to try a mild sedative (rather than putting the cat under entirely) first when cleaning the teeth. If your cat is an older cat (5 years or more) and it must be put under, see if the vet will use a gas anesthesia rather than an injected form. What you can do: Brush your cat's teeth once a week. Use little cat toothbrushes, or soft child-size toothbrushes, and edible cat toothpaste (available at most vets or pet stores). Cats often hate to have their teeth brushed, so you may have to use a bathtowel straightjacket and a helper. If you are skilled and have a compliant cat, you can clean its teeth using the same type of tool the human dentist does. 2. Rootwork Cavities in cat teeth often occur just at or under the gum line. If your cat has an infected tooth, you will have to have root work done on it. It is typical to do x-rays after such a procedure to ensure that all of the roots have reabsorbed. If the roots haven't done so, then the infection can easily continue on up to the sinus and nasal passages and from there to the lungs. Such infections require long-term antibiotics. 3. Smelly breath If your cat has smelly breath, there are various possible causes. * Teething: at about 6 months of age, cats will lose their baby teeth and get permanent ones. If the gums are red and puffy and you can see the points of teeth breaking through here and there, the cat is just teething and the odor will subside as the teeth come in. * Gingivitus: if the gums appear red and puffy and you've ruled teething out, your cat may have a gum infection of some sort. Take the cat to the vet. * Diet: certain foods, usually canned foods or prescription foods, can make your cat's breath smell. If possible, try changing your cat's diet. * Abscessed tooth: may show no symptoms other than smelly breath. Drooling sometimes occurs in conjunction. The cat must be taken to the vet to have the abscess drained and possibly the teeth involved removed. If this is not done, the infection can easily spread to the sinuses and cause the face to swell, especially just under the eyes. E. Trimming Claws. As an alternative to declawing and to help stem the destruction from scratching, many cat owners keep their cats' claws trimmed. This is easiest if you start from the beginning when your cat is a kitten, although most cats can be persuaded to accept this procedure. Use nail clippers available at pet stores. Look for the guillotine type (don't use the human variety, this will crush and injure your cat's claw) and get blade replacements as the sharper the blade is the easier this procedure is. There are also clippers that look like scissors with short, hooked blades. These may be easier for some people to handle. Set your cat down securely in the crook of your "off" arm, with the cat either in your lap or on the floor between your knees, depending on the size of your cat and your own size. Pin the cat to your side with your arm and hold one of its paws with your hand (this is sometimes a little much for an "off" arm, you may wish to practice). With its back away from you, it cannot scratch you, or easily get away. With your "good" hand, hold the clippers. If you squeeze your cat's paw with your off hand, the claws will come out. Examine them carefully (you may want to do this part before actually trying to trim them, to familiarize yourself with how the claws look). If the claws are white (most cat's are), the difference between the nail and the quick is easy to see (use good lighting). The quick will be the pink tissue visible within the nail of the claw at the base. This is comparable to the difference between the nail attached to your skin and the part that grows beyond it. DO NOT CUT BELOW THE QUICK. It will be painful to your cat and bleed everywhere. When in doubt, trim less of the nail. It will just mean trimming more often. Clip the portion above the quick for each nail and don't forget the dewclaws. On cats, dewclaws are found only on the front paws, about where humans would have their thumbs -- they do not touch the ground. Some cats are polydactyl, and have up to seven claws on any paw. Normally there are four claws per paw, with one dewclaw on each of the front paws. Rear claws don't need to be trimmed as often or at all; they do not grow as quickly and are not as sharp. You should be able to hold any of the four paws with your off hand; it will become easier with practice. If you have too much trouble holding the cat still for this, enlist someone else to help. You can then pick up a paw and go for it. Be careful; this position often means you are in front of its claws and a potential target for shredding. Older cats generally object more than younger ones; this means you should start this procedure as soon as you get your cat if you intend to do this. Trimming claws should be done weekly. Different claws grow at different rates; check them periodically (use the same position you use for clipping: it gives you extra practice and reduces the cat's anxiety at being in that position). Claws grow constantly, like human nails. Unlike human nails, however, to stay sharp, claws must shed outer layers of nail. Cats will pull on their claws or scratch to remove these layers. This is perfectly normal and is comparable to humans cutting and filing their own nails. You may see slices of claws lying around, especially on scratching posts; this is also quite normal. F. Grooming. Start early with your cat. The younger it is when you begin grooming it, the more pleasant grooming will be for it. A cat that fights grooming may need sedation and shaving at the vets for matted fur; it is well worth the time to get your cat to at least tolerate grooming. Start with short sessions. Stick to areas that it seems to enjoy (often the top of the head and around the neck) first, and work your way out bit by bit. Experiment a bit (and talk with your vet) to find the brush and routine that seems to work best with your cat. Even short-hair cats benefit from grooming: they still shed a surprising amount of hair despite its length. 1. Thick, long fur Inexpensive pin-type (not the "slicker" type) dog brushes work well. You may choose to followup with a metal comb; if you use a flea comb, you will also detect any fleas your cat may have. 2. Silky long fur Soft bristle brushes work well. 3. Short hair Try an all-rubber brush, often sold as kitten or puppy brushes. G. Bathing. You should not ordinarily need to bath a cat. Cats are normally very good about cleaning themselves, and for most cats, that's all the bathing they will ever need. Reasons for giving them a bath are: - The cat has got something poisonous on its fur, - It doesn't take care of its coat as normal cats 1:01 GMT Organization: Disorganized in Orange County, CA Lines: 1285 Sender: tittle Approved: news-answers-request@mit.edu Expires: 13 Apr 1994 22:20:44 GMT Message-ID: References: Reply-To: tittle@netcom.com NNTP-Posting-Host: bloom-picayune.mit.edu X-Last-Updated: 1993/10/20 Originator: faqserv@bloom-picayune.MIT.EDU Archive-name: cats-faq/part2 Version: 1.7 Last-modified: 14 September 1993 Periodicity: 20 days This is the second part of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) List for rec.pets.cats. It is posted every twenty days: updates, additions, and corrections (including attributions) are always welcome: send email to one of the addresses below. Copies of this FAQ may be obtained by anonymous ftp to rtfm.mit.edu under /pub/usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/*. Or send email to mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu with send usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/part1 send usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/part2 send usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/part3 send usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/part4 in the body of the message to have all parts emailed to you (leave the subject line empty). L. Vaccination and Worming Schedule. Preventative health care schedule for cattery cats and pet cats. From John R. August, 1989. Preventative Health Care and Infectious Disease Control, pp. 391-404 in Sherding, Robert H. (ed) The Cat: Diseases and Clinical Management, v1. Churchill-Livingstone Inc, NY. All cats should be vaccinated, even strictly indoor ones. Cats may escape. Some diseases use mice, fleas, or other insects as vectors and do not require the presence of other cats. Natural disasters: consider earthquakes, hurricanes, etc., may let your cat out of the house. 3 weeks fecal exam 6 weeks fecal exam 9-10 weeks FRTV/FCV/FPV vaccine ELISA test for FeLV FeLV vaccine fecal exam 12-14 weeks FRTV/FCV/FPV vaccine FeLV vaccination Rabies vaccine fecal exam 6 months FeLV vaccination fecal exam 12 months fecal exam 16 months FRTV/FCV/FPV vaccine (repeated annually) FeLV vaccine (repeated annually) Rabies vaccine (repeated according to manufacturer's instructions) fecal exam (every 6 months) FCV= feline calicivirus FRTV= feline rhino-tracheovirus FPV= feline panleukopenia virus = distemper FeLV = feline leukemia virus. FIP is a yearly vaccination, but it is new and may not always be available, or advised for your particular cat. Talk with your vet. M. What Your Vet Should Check. On a standard annual physical/examination, your vet should check: * teeth for tartar/gum swelling * ears for ear mites and other fungus problems * body for ringworm (with black light) * standard bloodwork * fecal exam for worms * booster shots for rabies, FeLV, panleukopenia, rhino&co, etc. * eyes for normal pupil response and normal retinal appearance * weight, heart rate, temperature N. My Cat is Sick, Should I Take It To the Vet? 1. Asking on the net Frequently there are postings such as: "My cat is doing , should I take it to the vet?" Or even, "I can't afford to take my cat to the vet, he is doing , what can I do?" The usual answer will be TAKE IT TO THE VET! It is an irresponsible owner who does not consult the vet, even by phone, at the first opportunity. And if you take on the responsibility of owning a cat, you must budget for the vet visits to keep it healthy. On the other hand, if you already have a vet appointment, or have had the vet look at it and be stumped by the symptoms, rec.pets.cats is a valuable resource of tips on what might be wrong, or reassurances that the cat is not at risk of immediate death, so do not hesitate to ask the group under these circumstances. 2. Home vet books A low-cost method to ease anxieties over non-emergency kitty problems is to get a home vet book. (See Literature.) These books also help explain what sort of "deviant" behaviors are actually relatively normal for cats. However, unless you yourself are a vet, these books should never substitute for having a vet for your cat. O. Disease Transmission (Zoonoses). Some diseases can be transmitted from cats to people (zoonoses). Most cannot. For example, you absolutely cannot contract AIDS from a cat with FIV or FeLV, although the diseases are related (all are retroviruses). This misconception led to the tragic deaths of hundreds of cats as panicked owners got rid of them. Anyone with an impaired immune system is at risk of exposure to germs and other things from cats that healthy people would not contract; this is regardless of the health of the cat. You are more likely to contract diseases from other people than your pets. Transmission of disease generally requires close contact between susceptible people and animals or their oral, nasal, ocular or digestive excretions. Use common sense and practice good hygiene to reduce your risks. From the Cornell Book of Cats: * Viral diseases transmitted by cats are rabies and cowpox, usually through biting or direct contact. * Ringworm is a fungus infection affecting the hair, skin, and nails. Humans contract it either by direct contact with the cat or by the spores shed from an infected animal. * Cat bites can cause a variety of diseases and infections, including pasteurella and tetanus. * Campylobacter enteritis, a disease of the small intestine, can be caused by contact with contaminated cat feces. * Cat scratch fever is an infection caused by a bacterial agent transmitted to the human via a cat scratch. * Conjunctivitis in humans can be caused by contact with the nasal and ocular discharges of cats infected with feline chlamydiosis. * Humans can become infected by Lyme disease or Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever when a cat brings home ticks. If the cat becomes infected with plague, it can also infect humans directly. * Salmonella organisms, which are shed in discharges from the mouth, eyes, and in the feces, can cause intestinal disease in humans. * Toxoplasmosis is transmitted by contact with the feces of an infected cat. Although it is well-known that cats can transmit toxoplasmosis, many do not know that humans are more commonly infected by eating incompletely cooked meat. * Other parasites which can be acquired by humans are hookworms, roundworms, and tapeworms: usually by direct or indirect contact with contaminated feces, or ingestion of contaminated fleas. P. Toxoplasmosis (when you are pregnant and own a cat). Toxoplasmosis is a disease that can be picked up by handling contaminated raw meat, or the feces produced after ingestion of such meat. It takes between 36 and 48 hours for the eggs shed in stools to reach the infective stage, so if you remove stools from the litter box every day, the chances are slim that you could contract toxoplasmosis. (Nomenclature: Toxoplasma gondii is the organism, toxoplasmosis the disease, and Toxoplasma is a protozoan.) In theory, you can catch it by cleaning the litter box or by working in a garden used as a litter box. Most commonly, people catch it by handling raw meat or eating undercooked meat. Many cat-exposed people have had toxoplasmosis; the symptoms are similar to a mild cold. The problem occurs when pregnant women contract toxoplasmosis. This will severely damage the fetus. Simple precautions will prevent this problem; unfortunately many doctors still recommend getting rid of cats when the woman is pregnant. A good idea is to get tested for toxoplasmosis *before* you get pregnant; once you've had it, you will not get it again. You should note that there has yet to be a proven case of human toxoplasmosis contracted from a cat -- the most common sources of toxoplasmosis are the eating or preparing of contaminated raw meat. To prevent human contraction of toxoplasmosis: a) Cook any meat for you or your cat thoroughly. b) Use care when handling raw meat. c) Wear household gloves when handling litter. d) Use disinfectant to clean the litter pan and surrounding area. e) Change the cat litter often. f) Keep children's sandpits covered when not in use. g) Wear gardening gloves when working in the garden. To be on the safe side, the litterbox and meat-chopping chores should go to someone else if you're pregnant. III. HEALTH/MEDICAL A. In General. Your cat can't tell you how it's feeling so you must familiarize yourself with its normal behavior. A healthy cat maintains normal body weight, level of activity, and social behavior. A significant change in any of these is a warning sign. Getting regular, accurate weights can detect problems early. You can weigh yourself on a bathroom scale with (holding) and without the cat and subtract. This is accurate only to about two pounds on most bathroom scales. For better accuracy, modify a kitchen scale by mounting a bigger platform on it. Train your cat to get on the platform by placing a Pounce or similar treat on it. Any sudden weight change, especially loss, probably means your cat is feeling sick. Medicines for humans are often used for cats, both prescription and non-prescription drugs (phenobarbitol, lasix, amoxicillin, cold medications, etc.). When you hear that you should never give human medicines to cats, it means that you should NOT give them without first consulting your vet. Certain very common human drugs like aspirin and especially tylenol are DEADLY to cats, so DON'T give them ANY kind of medication unless recommended by the vet (note that aspirin can be given in very small doses, but you need to check correct dosage and frequency of administration). A final cautionary note about this section. This is not meant to be a complete treatise on these various diseases. It is intended to familiarize you with the various major diseases your cat can develop. If your cat has any of these diseases, you should be in close contact with your vet, who will provide you with all the information you need to deal with your cat's illness. Further information on any of these diseases may also be found in the books listed in the Literature section. Furthermore, while vaccines exist to prevent many of these diseases, be aware that vaccines do not always work 100% of the time. Variables can include the cat's own ability to "take" the vaccine, the proper administration of the vaccine, and whether or not the cat has already be exposed to the disease in question. B. Aging. Most cats will reach about 11 or 12 years of age. Some make it 18 and very few to 20 and beyond. According to material provided by the Gaines Research Center, cats will age 15 years in the first year (10 in the first six months!) and 4 years for every year after that. Other vets will say 20 years for the first year, 4 years for each year thereafter. C. Cat Allergies. Here are some highlights from the article in CATS Magazine, April 1992, pertaining to cats with allergies. * Cats can suffer from a wide range of allergies. * A cat with one allergy often has others. * 15% of all cats in the U.S. suffer from one or more allergies. * Cats' allergies fall into several categories, each with a parallel complaint among human allergy sufferers. Inhalant allergies are caused by airborne articles, such as pollen, that irritate the nasal passages and lungs. Contact alllergies manifest themselves when the cat has prolonged contact with a substance that it just cannot tolerate. Cats have allergies to foods as well -- not so much to the chemical preservatives but to the grains, meats and dairy products used. Some cats react badly to certain drugs, such as antibiotics or anesthesia. * Flea allergy is the most common of all allergies. As cats age, their sensitivity to flea bites increases. Prednisone (oral or injection) is commonly used for a bad reaction. * Between 5 & 10 percent of allergy cases are caused by food. Like contact allergies, food allergies will show up as dermatitis and severe itching but in some cases will also cause vomiting and diarrhea. Also, the cat may have excessively oily skin, ear inflammation, or hair loss (which can also be a sign of hormone imbalance). * A food allergy doesn't show up overnight. It can take from a week to 10 years of exposure to show itself; more than 80 percent of cats with food allergies have been eating the allergen-containing food for more than two years. Studies are being done to determine possible connections between food allergies and FUS, with some success in eliminating foods and cutting down on FUS symptoms. Results are still experimental. Food allergies are treated with a bland, hypoallergenic diet -- rice with boiled chicken or lamb, and distilled water is commonly used. Two weeks is the longest it usually takes for the bland diet to work. Causes, symptoms, and treatments of some types of allergies: * Plants, especially oily-leafed ones, such as rubber plants, that might be brushed against. Other contact allergens include: carpet fresheners, wool, house dust, newsprint, cleansers and topical medications. Even the carpet itself. Signs of contact allergens: dermatitis, pigmentary changes or skin eruptions. Most noticable on the chin, ears, inner thighs, abdomen, underside of the tail, armpits and around the anus. Skin patch tests are used to determine cause of contact allergies. * Medications that commonly cause skin eruptions: penicillin, tetracycline, neomycin and panleukopenia vaccine. Each drug causes different symptoms, but the symptoms differ from cat to cat. There is no way to predict how a cat will react. Antihistamines or steroids may be used to eliminate symptoms (after ceasing administration of the drug) * Kitty litter - when new brands of litter come out, vets frequently see a number of cats that have reactions to it. Other inhalant allergies can include: dust from the furnace esp. when it is first turned on; cigarette smoke; perfumes; household sprays and air freshners; pollen. Inhalent allergies can also result in skin loss, scabbing pustules, or ulcerated areas on the skin. This in addition to the asthmatic symptoms. Treatment uses...antihistamines, such as chlortrimetron.. More severe cases are treated with systemic steroids, which can have drawbacks. D. Declawi