$Unique_ID{COW03785} $Pretitle{280} $Title{Turkey Welcome to the New World of Turkey-and the Old} $Subtitle{} $Author{Turkish Tourist Society} $Affiliation{Turkish Embassy, Washington DC} $Subject{turkey turkish city turkey's ancient world coast new ephesus industrial} $Date{1990} $Log{Beach*0378501.scf } Country: Turkey Book: Focus on the New Turkey Author: Turkish Tourist Society Affiliation: Turkish Embassy, Washington DC Date: 1990 Welcome to the New World of Turkey-and the Old [See Beach: Courtesy of Turkish Embassy, Washington DC.] Turkey's relations with the West have known a long and chequered history. In the 16th century Ottoman armies stood at the gates of Vienna, threatening to kick in the back door of a terrified Europe. In the 19th century, despite extensive efforts to reform and modernise, Turkey was dismissed as the `Sick Man of Europe'. From Lepanto to Gallipoli the images have all too often been of confrontation rather than understanding. But even now, how many of us know anything of the abundant riches of Turkey's history, culture, art and literature? How many know that the Turks in the 15th and 16th centuries created a world empire extending over three continents and stretching from the gates of Vienna to the Persian Gulf, from the Crimea to the sources of the Blue Nile, and from Gibraltar to the Levant encompassing the Black and Red Seas, as well as the Mediterranean, as `Turkish Lakes'? How many know that the arts and scholarship flourished in 16th century Istanbul as grandly as in Renaissance Italy? Witness the recent Suleyman the Magnificent exhibition in Britain and America, whose treasures dazzled all who saw them. (And this from a time when Istanbul, `enchantress of Europe and Asia' was the greatest city in the world.) For that matter, how many of us know of the visionary plans for a modern secular state of Turkey, on Western democratic lines, laid down by Kemal Ataturk, the father of today's Turkey and one of the most remarkable statesmen of modern times? In many quarters Turkey still awaits the lifting of a veil of ignorance. This booklet attempts to do just that. As a longtime traveller to Turkey perhaps I may add a personal word here. As anyone knows who has visited the country regularly over the last two decades, Turkey is modernising fast. But it is still one of the most striking and interesting places to visit. One thinks of the wonderful variety of landscape, from Lake Van to the highlands of northeastern Anatolia to the lush valleys of Aegean Turkey in the west, and the spectacular and magical scenery of the southwestern corner, ancient Lycia. Here in western Turkey are some of the greatest classical sites in the Mediterranean Ephesus, Pergamon, Miletus, Didyma memorials of the cultures of classical Anatolia which left such a mark on later Turkey. Here the traveller will feel that this is the country with everything: wonderful landscapes, rare wildlife, haunting seascapes, trackless mountains, and marvellous historical sites, where Hittites, Phrygians, Ionians, Lycians, Karians, Macedonians, Romans, Byzantines, Selcuks and Ottomans have all left their legacy. To cap it all there is the superb Turkish cuisine, an irresistible blend of Mediterranean influences. But last of all, and most important, there is the genuineness and hospitality of the people much more used to meeting foreign travellers off the beaten track than they were twenty years ago. The ordinary Turks have had a long struggle to fulfil Ataturk's dream and no doubt there are still battles to be fought. But the modern state is still on the road for which Ataturk hoped, and is finally shedding its old image in Western eyes. I recall the words of a British officer who spent two years in an Ottoman jail in the First War. Writing after Kemal Ataturk's young state had overcome its birth crises, and impressed by this dynamic new leader, he wrote `Turkey lived as in the last resort all people and nations live by virtue of her inner strength; and she is now working out her own contribution to the common culture of humanity.' All friends of Turkey, I am sure, will agree, and wish her people well. Turkey is not just one holiday. It is more like a thousand and one. Here, between the Black Sea and the White Sea (as the Turks call the translucent Mediterranean), between the warm Aegean in the West and snowcapped Mount Agri in the East, you can discover so many different and exciting worlds. Naturally there is the world of picturesque seascapes, abundant sunshine, and enticing golden beaches, some of them surprisingly secluded. Turkey offers this kind of holiday in glorious profusion. But there are other worlds to explore the sophistication of Istanbul; the challenge of windsurfing, water skiing and paraflight water sports; mountaineering and mountain walking; skiing at a number of easily accessible winter resorts; crewed yachting cruises along the intriguing coves and inlets of Turkey's coastline; therapeutic treatment at one of the many thermal spas; a venture to the interior, say, volcanic Cappadoccia; or one of the new multicentre air tours. Wherever you go, you'll find you can tour back in time, almost to the very beginnings of time itself. You can strive to imagine the Great Flood depositing Noah's Ark and its vital cargo on the slopes of Mount Agri. You can people the plain of Troy with the heroes Achilles and Hector and their resounding deeds of arms and wonder if you would have let the Trojan Horse into the city if you had been King Priam despite the advice of Cassandra and Laocoon to burn it. Again, at the magnificently preserved stadium at Aphrodisias, you can practically hear the fullthroated roar of the 25,000 crowd. Always there seem to be surprising discoveries around the corner. Did you know, for example, that it was on the battlefield of Zile, near Amasya, that Julius Caesar after defeating Pharnaces first uttered his famous `I came, I saw, I conquered' and not in Britain? Did you know that the great Carthaginian general, Hannibal, is buried at Gebze, on the north coast of the Sea of Marmara? That Homer is reputed to have been born in Izmir? That the `father of history', Herodotus, was born in 485 BC at Bodrum, ancient Halikarnassos? And did you know that Santa Claus historically comes from Turkey? St. Nicholas was Bishop of Myra in Lycia in the 7th century AD, and gained his reputation for secret gifts when, undetected, he bestowed three bags of gold on a merchant who was unable to provide marriage dowries for his three daughters. No other land seems quite so rich as Turkey in the big names of history and legend. It's no surprise that Turkey is now one of the foremost holiday destinations for Europe. With this newfound popularity, there is a firm determination to keep this vast beautiful country as unspoiled as possible. Beauty spots such as the mountaingirt lagoon at Olu Deniz, and the Dalyan delta, a natural habitat of the Loggerhead turtle, have been designated special conservation areas part of awideranging environmental programme. Around the world of Turkey in two pages? Impossible! But at least this quick tour of the different regions may suggest some of the rich and startling contrasts Turkey offers today's traveller. Black Sea Coast. Isolated from the rest of Turkey by the Black Sea mountains, this lush green region is full of tobacco and tea plantations, hazelnut groves, cherry orchards, sandy beaches and ancient fortresses. Near Trabzon, Sumela Monastery clings to a precipice. Along the coast at Sinop, in Amazon country, is the birthplace of the austere philosopher, Diogenes, who when Alexander asked him if he wanted anything, replied `Yes, would you move out of my sun a little.' Central Anatolia. Ataturk chose Ankara as the new capital of Turkey for its strategically central location. Once you've seen the sights, and sampled the restaurants here, you can slip back some thousands of years into the surrounding country...to Hattusas, the Hittite capital; to Gordion, where King Midas was afflicted with the touch that turned all to gold; to the valley of Cappadocia with its weird lunar beauty and underground cities; and to one of the world's first cities, Catalhoyuk (the Fork Mound or Tumulus). Lake Van & the East. Look on the might of Mount Agri from the Palace of Ishak Pasa and you feel this is another Turkey on an altogether vaster scale. See how the bright blue expanse of Lake Van confirms this impression. Or view the colossal godheads at the summit of Mount Nemrut and marvel at the hubris of King Antiochus I, who 2000 years ago had his own statue built between those of Zeus and Hercules. The Mediterranean. The southern coast of Turkey is starstudded with exciting places to visit. Relax on the `Turkish Riviera'. Snowski in the Taurus mountains and waterski on the same day Scent the mandarin groves, the pine forests, the wild oleander. From the harbour Castle at Bodrum to the Plain of Issos, where Alexander crushed Darius III, a pageant of history unfolds before you. No wonder Mark Anthony gave Cleopatra part of this coast as his wedding gift. The Aegean. The cradle of Western civilization, this region mingles ancient sites with modern resorts, and fills you with a sense of discovery. Troy, Sardis, Pergamon, with its library of 200,000 books; the `Velvet Fortress' dominating Izmir; the incredible calcified waterfalls of Pamukkale; Kusadasi `Island of Birds'; the Virgin Mary's chapel near Selcuk; and of course the splendours of Ephesus `Is there a greater city?' as St. Paul asked. Thrace & Marmara. There's plenty to see in this historic region aside from the wonders of Istanbul itself. The border city, Edirne, with architect Sinan's `crowning glory', the Selimiye Mosque; Iznik, the ancient Nicaea, home of vivid ceramic tiles; Bursa with its therapeutic baths; Kus Cenneti (Bird Paradise) National Park; and Canakkale, where Xerxes' army marched across his pontoon bridge of ships 2400 years ago. TOURIST TIPS Money Matters: Bank opening hours are Mondays-Fridays, 8.30am to noon and 1.30 to 5pm. You'll find a multiplicity of banks in Turkey and exchange rates may vary from bank to bank. Tip on Tipping: service charge is not normally included in restaurants add 10% to total. Need petrol? `Super' is 4 star; `normal' is 2 star. How far? 8 kilometres = 5 miles; 20 km = 12.4 miles; 50 km = 31 miles. Things to take or to buy immediately upon arrival: comfortable flat shoes for uneven tourist sites, suntan cream, tissues, insect repellant, waterbasin plug, adaptor plug to fit your electric appliances to standard 2pin plugs. (Electricity is mostly 220v AC in Turkey.) THE TAMING OF THE TIGRIS AND EUPHRATES Many travellers to Turkey are surprised to find that part of Mesopotamia, that fabled `land between the rivers', lies in southeast Turkey. Today much of the arid and semiarid earth between the mighty Tigris (Dicle) and Euphrates (Firat) rivers is in the process of being transformed by Turkey's largest ever irrigation and energy development the SouthEast Anatolia Project, for which the Turkish acronym is GAP. When completed, GAP will encompass no fewer than 21 dams and 17 hydroelectric power plants. Irrigation will be brought to some 30,000 square miles an area covering almost onetenth of Turkey, equivalent to the combined areas of Belgium, Holland and Luxembourg. The benefits that will flow from this comprehensive multiproject development are massive. One of the most important features of the entire enterprise is that two crops a year may be grown where only one (or none) grew before. Not only will productivity increase, but also the range of crops. This will include beet, corn, grapes, fruit, vegetables, rice and pistachio nuts as well as cotton and tobacco. In terms of energy, GAP will add over 7500 MegaWatts to Turkey's total generating capacity, raising it by a prodigious 70%. Almost a third of this increase will be due to the gigantic Ataturk Dam, the biggest single GAP project. Scheduled for completion in the early 1990s, the Ataturk Dam will channel water from the Euphrates river through twin 16 mile long tunnels the world's longest tunnel for irrigation purposes. At 180 metres high, the dam will rank as the fifth largest rockfilled dam in the world. Aside from the obvious beneficial impact on Turkey's agricultural and energy output, GAP will have a positive longterm benefit for the population of the area. The number of people is expected to more than double, to over 10 million by 1995, reversing the present population outflow to western Turkey. Additionally, GAP is already proving a considerable source of employment, and providing further experience for Turkish construction firms working in conjunction with their European partners in various powerful new industrial consortia. So next time you read of the 7 Wonders of the Ancient World, including the two in Turkey, the vast tomb of King Mausolus at Halikarnassos and the farfamed Temple of Artemis at Ephesus, remember there are new manmade wonders being constructed day by day within modern Turkey. SUCH BRILLIANT SOUVENIRS Everyone likes to bring back mementoes of their stay abroad and when the country is Turkey, there's an embarrassment of riches to choose from. First and foremost, there are the distinctive Turkish carpets from some two dozen carpetmaking centres. Superb silk carpets woven near Istanbul or wool carpets from Kayseri. Then there are the less expensive colourful kilim or woven rugs, attractive cicim or embroidered rugs, and luxurious rugs of angora goat hair. Next you will want to look over the fabulous leather coats and jackets belts too which work out at tremendous value compared to London prices. What else will claim your attention? Dazzling silk headscarfs (yemeni) with embroidered lace flowers; light cotton blouses that fit the fashion scene perfectly; intriguing jewelry necklaces, bracelets and rings that maybe boast a turquoise, the opaque semiprecious stone whose colour hovers enigmatically between green and blue, and protects you from the `evil eye'. You may favour a finely crafted onyx ashtray from Cappodocia, or an elaborately carved meerschaum pipe meerschaum means `foam of the sea' in German and is a beautiful soft white stone. Certainly you will covet the beaten copperware vessels and trays that glint and glow with subtle colours and intricate patterns. And who can resist the Turkish way of decorating china plates? Whether you're shopping in Istanbul's great Covered Bazaar, or one of the medieval caravanserais that have been converted into shops, you needn't be frightened of bargaining. In fact, it's expected of you if you're making a serious purchase (not of course in an ordinary shop). Haggling is half the fun and can sometimes succeed in netting you less than half the original asking price. Don't be surprised if negotiations start with a leisurely glass of apple tea or Turkish coffee. There's no obligation in this, although clearly you don't want to take up too much time if you have no real intention of buying. It's worth bearing in mind that the more you make your purchases at a particular shop, the more your `discount' may improve. How about those little gifts that can mean so much for family and friends when you return home? There's no danger you will run out of ideas here... Topping the list of best buys is that succulent national confection, Turkish Delight or lokum. You can buy this in delicious flavours such as lemon, mint or pistachio. Again for a sweet tooth, there are sugared almonds, or different flavours of honey pine, thyme or wild flowers. Other gift suggestions: raki, nuts from the special kiosks, kebab skewers, Turkish slippers, a backgammon set, spices from Istanbul's famous Spice Market. Whatever you choose, you'll find you get outstanding value for your money. SHOPPING TIPS Remember you'll find dutyfree shops at major arrival points in Turkey, so you can buy dutyfree goods on entering as well as leaving. If you're buying a rug and want to check if it's handmade, look at the underside: it should be uneven. Some dealers may offer a receipt for less than the price you paid to `save you paying customs duty'. Be wary of this. On your return to the UK, you should currently declare goods bought in Turkey (excluding your `allowance' of perfume, tobacco and alcohol) when their value totals more than 32 Pounds. Customs officials can be very knowledgeable on the true value of carpets, rugs and leather goods. Turkey's Industrial Revolution Sunning yourself on the beach at Kalkan or Kusadasi, or gazing in awe at the sacred carp in Abraham's Pool at Sanliurfa, it may seem hard to believe but Turkey is in the middle of a pulsating industrial revolution. Wherever you are taking your holiday in Turkey, the evidence of this rapid industrialisation is not hard to find. In Istanbul you'll see two spectacular bridges across the Bosphorus, with a third being built commercial arteries between two continents. In your resort, you may be staying in one of the tourist industry's new showpiece hotels. On the Turkish Riviera, you may see the cottonfields blow in white abundance as textiles become one of Turkey's biggest industrial success stories. Compared to Britain's Industrial Revolution, effectively the world's first, which spread itself over most of the 19th century, Turkey is compressing her industrialisation into a much shorter time span. The economy's growth rate has been sustained at an average of over 6% for the past five years, with manufacturing industry leading the way. Already manufactured goods account for about fourfifths of all exports. In industry after industry, today's Turkey is showing remarkable capability. Cement, iron and steel, textiles, glass and ceramics showed the way, and these are now being followed by machine tools, tyres, TV sets, refrigerators, civil and military electronics, diesel engines and latterly even jet aircraft production. Many European firms are taking advantage of Turkey's unique strategic geographic location. The German firm Mercedes Benz, for instance, is now manufacturing commercial vehicles in Turkey and expanding facilities for export to the Near East. This is just one example of a joint venture between European and Turkish firms. Encouraged by government incentives, these enterprises contributed to a record $352 million foreign investment in Turkey in 1988. Another productive field for joint ventures is the Turkish construction industry, now one of the world's largest, and currently heavily engaged in southeast Anatolia, the Middle East, and on several prestigious contracts in the USSR. All this goes to show Turkey's massive potential for the 1990s and beyond not only as a dynamic consumer market in its own right, but as a key commercial and industrial staging post for new markets east. FACTFILE Industrial goods account for 80% of Turkey's total exports. 34% of Gross National Product is industrial, compared with 14% agricultural. The European Community is Turkey's largest export market, accounting for almost half her total exports. In 1960, population stood at 27.7 million, with 25% living in towns; in 1989, population has almost doubled to 55 million, with over 50% in towns; by the year 2000, the population is expected to reach 70 million with 70% in urban areas. Turkey is the world's 8th largest food producer, the 6th largest in tobacco and the 7th largest cotton grower. CROSSROADS OF CIVILIZATION Here, on the western coast, rose and fell legendary and illustrious cities: Priam's Troy, Attalid Pergamon, Ephesus and Byzantium. Here too the first coins in the world were minted at Sardis, capital of the Lydians whose king, Croesus, was famed for his wealth. It was Croesus who sent to the Delphic oracle to ask whether or not he should fight against the Persian King Cyrus. On being told that if he crossed the Halys (Kizilirmak) River a great empire would fall, he interpreted the prophecy incorrectly, crossed and was defeated. At Sart (Sardis), about an hour's drive from Izmir, are the remains of one of the most beautiful ancient temples. It was dedicated to Artemis, fertility goddess of Anatolia. Lying in a hollow between the Sart Cayi (Pactolus River, once the source of Lydian gold and wealth) and the steep red rock of the ancient citadel, it is an unforgettable sight and well worth the journey. Artemis better known to many as Diana, was also the main goddess of Ephesus. Her great temple was one of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world. Burnt down on the night of Alexander the Great's birth in 356 BC, it was rebuilt even more splendidly than before, though little now remains. Nearby is the site of ancient Ephesus, which must be a first choice on US$any visitor's itinerary. This was one of the largest and wealthiest cities of antiquity. In 55 AD St. Paul visited the city to preach the Gospel. His message however was unacceptable to the guild of jewellers who had a profitable income from making gold and silver objects to dedicate to Artemis. Led by one Demetrius, the jewellers organised a demonstration in the theatre, where for two hours the crowd shouted 'Great is Artemis of the Ephesians'. St. Paul was forced to leave the city. Nevertheless, the new religion spread rapidly and Ephesus became one of the major centres of early Christianity. Walking from the theatre towards the beautiful library of Celsus, past the agora, centre of business and commerce, it is easy to imagine the city alive with people doing business and discussing the affairs of the day. Going up the hill from the Library, you pass the recently restored private houses. Beautifully decorated with mosaic floors and exquisite wallpaintings, these homes were wellequipped with indoor plumbing and central heating. Somewhat south of Ephesus, you can visit the delightful Ionian town of Priene, built to a grid plan on a sloping hill. We know that Alexander visited the city during his journey eastwards. Another highlight in this region and near a beach is the superb temple of Apollo at Didyma. Here, where storks now nest atop the columns, the priestess once made her prophecies. Whilst the Aegean coast has cities that were Ionian, Lycian and Karian in origin, those of the south coast were predominantly Roman, dating from the Imperial era. Perge and Side, with its seafront temples, are well worth visiting. For those with time, however, there can be few greater pleasures than a visit to the romantic ruins of Termessos. This city, which Alexander failed to take, was a stronghold of the Cilician pirates. Until defeated by Pompey the Great, they infested the Eastern Mediterranean, taking captives for sale in the slave markets. Inland, the beautiful ancient city of Aphrodisias is still being excavated. The city lay near to marble quarries and a famous school of sculpture developed; many impressive pieces can be seen in the museum on site. The great Hittite sites lie further east in Central Anatolia and a visit to the capital Hattusas is a unique experience. From here, these great people ruled much of Asia Minor in the second millennium, until c.1200 BC when their world vanished suddenly. If you are visiting Ankara and have only limited time, a few hours spent in the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations will take you from the Neolithic world to that of the Phrygians, whose great centre was at Gordion. There is far more than all this to see, but once you've begun to discover Turkey's past, you'll have to go back again and again... TOP TEN SITES WEST COAST 1. Ephesus. Huge city, mainly Roman. The sacred way leads to the remains of Artemis' temple. Later citadel of Selcuk has Byzantine fortifications and Church of St John. 2. Pergamon. Impressive Hellenistic city crowning a hill; separate site of sanctuary of Asklepios. 3. Sardis. Romantic archaic temple; nearby are the restored gymnasium and synagogue (Roman period). SOUTH COAST 4. Termessos. Stunning preAlexandrian hilltop city. ELSEWHERE 5. Hattusas & Yazilikaya. The Hittite capital, its citadel and nearby openair shrine. 6. Aphrodisias. Aphrodite's marble city; superb Roman sculptures. 7. Van. Eastern Anatolian centre. 8. Goreme. Frescoed Byzantine rockcut churches. 9. Karatepe (Black Hill). NeoHittite relief sculptures. 10. Gordion. Phrygian capital; King Midas' burial mound.