GUATEMALA COMPILATION 9 June 1995 Contents [1] On-line Information [1-1] CIA World Factbook [1-2] US State Department Travel Advisory [1-3] Frequently-Asked-Question (FAQ) Lists [1-4] Trip Reports [1-5] Newsgroups and Mailing-Lists [1-6] Other Internet Services [2] Guidebooks [2-1] Rough/Real Guide [2-2] Lonely Planet Guides [2-3] Miscellaneous Books [3] Threads on the "rec.travel.misc" Newsgroup [3-1] Getting There [3-2] Itineraries and Getting Around [3-3] Hiking [3-4] Safety [3-5] Guatemala Ciudad [3-6] Antigua [3-7] Lago Atitlan [3-8] Chichicastenango [3-9] Tikal/Flores [3-10] Crossing from/to Honduras Please drop me a line when you've downloaded this compilation, so that I may estimate how many people use this service. The (more frequently updated) original of this compilation is at: http://www.cs.bilkent.edu.tr/~pf/travel/guatemala.misc [Turkey] Comments and suggestions are welcome! Happy traveling in Guatemala, -- Pierre Flener, Ph.D., Assistant Professor Department of Computer Engineering Email: pf@cs.bilkent.edu.tr and Information Science http: //www.cs.bilkent.edu.tr/~pf/pf.html Faculty of Engineering Voice: +90 / 312 / 266-4000 x1450 Bilkent University (GMT+2) +90 / 312 / 266-5031 (home) 06533 Bilkent, Ankara, Turkey Fax: +90 / 312 / 266-4126 ======================================================================== [1] On-Line Information [1-1] CIA World Factbook The CIA World Factbook includes such things as population statistics, info about a country's government (names of heads of state, and so on), economy, addresses of U.S. embassies, and more, for many countries. Very interesting! The information on Guatemala is available as follows: http://www.ic.gov/94fact/country/99.html [USA] The information is not necessarily up-to-date, though. ---------------------------------------------------------------- [1-2] US State Department Travel Advisory The latest travel advisory for US-citizens wishing to visit Guatemala is available as follows: ftp://ftp.stolaf.edu/pub/travel-advisories/advisories/guatemala http://www.stolaf.edu/network/travel-advisories.html [USA] Such travel advisories are regularly issued by the US State Department. As you can imagine, this information is mostly relevant to US-citizens, but it gives an up-to-date, though slightly paranoid, estimate of the current political/economical/religious/... climate in Guatemala. Here follows the most recent advisory that I bothered to download (in November 1994): STATE DEPARTMENT TRAVEL INFORMATION - Guatemala ============================================================ Guatemala - Consular Information Sheet September 30, 1994 Warning: The United States Department of State warns U.S. citizens about possible dangers of travel to Guatemala. Unfounded rumors that foreigners are involved in the theft of children for the purpose of using their organs in transplants have led to threats and incidents of mob violence in several parts of the country. However, these incidents have not occurred in the traditional tourist destinations of Tikal, Antigua, Panajachel, Chichicastenango, Quetzaltenango, Rio Dulce, Puerto Barios, Santo Tomas de Castillo, Puerto Quetzal, and tourist/business sections of Guatemala City. Adoptive parents in particular should exercise extreme caution. U.S. citizens should avoid traveling alone and should restrict their travel even in large cities to areas that are frequented by tourists or business people. In particular travelers should avoid contact with Guatemalan children. U.S. citizens in Guatemala are encouraged to register with the U.S. Embassy in Guatemala City. Country Description: Guatemala has a developing economy and a democratic government. Democracy and constitutional rule were suspended in late May 1993 but were quickly restored. Except for luxury hotels in Guatemala City, Panajachel, Chichicastenango and Flores (Tikal), tourist facilities are not fully developed. Road conditions throughout the country are poor. Entry Requirements: To travel to Guatemala, U.S. citizens must have a passport and either a visa or a tourist card. U.S. citizens must carry identification at all times. Visas are available from the Embassy of Guatemala at 2220 R Street, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008, tel: (202) 745-4952, or Guatemalan consulates in Los Angeles, San Francisco, Miami, New Orleans, New York, Houston or Chicago. Tourist cards can be purchased upon arrival at the airport or Guatemalan border, or at the airport departure gate for flights from the U.S. to Guatemala. The government of Guatemala requires all U.S. citizens, without exception, to have a valid passport in order to depart Guatemala. U.S. citizens whose passports are lost or stolen in Guatemala must obtain a new passport and present it together with a police report of the loss or theft to the main immigration office in Guatemala City to obtain permission to depart Guatemala. An exit tax must be paid upon departure from the Guatemala City airport. Areas of Instability: Although negotiations are continuing between the government of Guatemala and guerrilla leaders to end a 33 year armed conflict, there are still occasional encounters between Guatemalan Army and guerrilla forces in the departments of El Quiche, Northern Alta Verapaz, Huehuetenango, San Marcos, Peten, Escuintla, Suchitepequez, Santa Rosa and Sacatepequez. There are occasional guerrilla roadblocks on the roads between Guatemala City and the border of El Salvador, as well as along the Pacific coast. However, visitors to major tourist destinations rarely come into contact with guerrilla or military forces. There has been a significant increase in terrorist incidents, especially during periods surrounding key political events, such as special elections, or highly publicized stages of peace negotiations. In the past six months, explosives have been detonated at electrical, television, and radio towers near Guatemala City and in the departments of Santa Rosa, Escuintla, and Chimaltenango. Smaller explosive devices have been detonated or have been deactivated by police agents in various businesses, newspaper offices, and shopping malls in Guatemala City. While most of the explosions have occurred at night and have resulted in relatively few deaths and injuries, the timing and character of any future incidents cannot be predicted with certainty. Medical Facilities: A full range of modern medical care is available in Guatemala City, but medical care outside the city is limited. Guatemala's public hospitals have experienced serious shortages of basic medicines and equipment, with some hospitals on the verge of bankruptcy. Care in private hospitals is generally adequate for the most common illnesses and injuries. Cholera is present in Guatemala. Doctors and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment for health services. U.S. medical insurance is not always valid outside the United States. Travelers often find that supplementary medical insurance with specific overseas coverage is useful. Additional health information may be obtained from the Centers for Disease Control's international travelers hotline at (404) 332-4559. Crime Information: Violent crime is a serious and growing problem throughout the country. Crime victims have sometimes complained of inadequate assistance from the police. Considering the rising trend in violent crime and its unpredictability, no area can be definitively characterized as "always safe." Incidents of armed attacks of tourists have occurred in a variety of areas at all times of the day or night. Visitors who suffer criminal assaults are encouraged to contact the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy (or the duty officer after hours) for advice and assistance. Pickpockets and purse snatchers are prevalent in Guatemala City, especially in the central market area. Valuables left unattended in automobiles, regardless of whether the vehicle is locked and/or in an apparently safe area, may be in jeopardy. Robberies of pedestrians by thieves armed with guns or machetes appear to be on the increase, even in the wealthier sections of the city. Armed car theft is also a serious problem. Persons who offer no resistance when confronted by car thieves are usually not hurt. There are occasional armed robberies on city buses and tour group buses. Non-political kidnappings are on the rise but have not yet affected any tourists. The colonial city of Antigua, located about 30 miles from Guatemala City, is generally considered safe and is a popular destination for tourists and students. Pickpockets and purse snatchers are also prevalent in Antigua and a special tourist police has been reestablished to reduce crime against tourists. Persons walking, jogging or biking on roads leading out of Antigua or to Cerro de la Cruz Park risk the possibility of attack and robbery by armed thieves. Female tourists were also raped in 1993 at Cerro de la Cruz Park and in the town of San Felipe, near Antigua. The towns of Panajachel (on Lake Atitlan) and Chichicastenango (site of a popular Indian market) are generally safe, but pickpockets are prevalent in the markets and cafes. Travel by boat from Panajachel to Santiago Atitlan and other towns around Lake Atitlan is dangerous in the late afternoon because of frequent bad weather conditions on the lake. It is dangerous to climb Guatemala's volcanoes, especially Pacaya. Two Americans died on Pacaya in 1991, and many tourists, including those traveling in large groups, have been the subject of violent armed robberies. Several female tourists were also raped. Hiking alone in less populated areas can also be risky. A German female tourist was savagely attacked by a machete wielding thief in 1993 on a trail between the towns of Jaibalito and Tzunana on the north side of Lake Atitlan. The Mayan ruins at Tikal and the nearby city of Flores (capital of the Peten Department) are generally safe provided that visitors fly to Flores and then travel by bus or tour van to the ruins. Road travel in the rest of Peten Department is difficult. Road conditions are poor, telephones, police and medical assistance are usually unavailable, and highway bandits are often active, particularly on the road between Tikal and the Guatemala-Belize border at Melchor de Mencos. The loss or theft of a U.S. passport abroad should be reported immediately to the local police and the nearest U.S. embassy or consulate. Useful information on guarding valuables and protecting personal security while traveling abroad is provided in the pamphlet, "A Safe Trip Abroad." This publication, as well as "Tips for Travelers to Central and South America," is available from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington D.C. 20402. Highway Travel: Intercity travel after sunset (6:00 p.m.) anywhere in Guatemala is extremely dangerous. Even in daylight hours, there are occasional incidents in which entire busloads of passengers are robbed either by armed thieves who set up roadblocks or by thieves who pose as bus passengers. Roadblocks are occasionally set up by thieves posing as military or police officers. Assailants also sometimes force a car off the road or stop in the middle of the highway in front of the intended victims' car. Large capacity rented vehicles and travel agency vans are frequent targets of highway bandits. If confronted by armed bandits, those who accede to all requests without arguing are usually not physically harmed. Travelers who try to outrun a roadblock are sometimes shot. When driving from Guatemala City to Lake Atitlan and Chichicastenango, the safest route is the Pan-American Highway (CA-1) through Chimaltenango and Tecpan to the crossroads at Los Encuentros and then either CA-1 to Solola and Panajachel or CA-15 to Chichicastenango. Travel to Lake Atitlan on any other road is dangerous. When entering Guatemala by car from Mexico, most travelers use border crossings at either Tecun Uman (Highway CA-2) on the Pacific coast or La Mesilla (Highway CA-1) in the highlands. During the January 1994 uprising of the Zapatista guerrilla organization in Chiapas, Mexico, the La Mesilla border crossing was closed. Travelers should inform themselves of the current political situation in Chiapas, Mexico before taking the CA-1/La Mesilla route. When traveling from El Salvador, the border crossing at Las Chinamas, El Salvador/Valle Nuevo, Guatemala is preferred. When entering Guatemala from Honduras, the border crossings are at either El Florido or Agua Caliente. With all cross-border travel, travelers need plenty of time to complete border crossing formalities, which can be lengthy, in order to travel to a major town before dark. Drug Penalties: U.S. citizens are subject to the laws of the country in which they are traveling. A 1992 anti-narcotics trafficking law in Guatemala provides tough penalties for possession, use or trafficking in illegal drugs. Those arrested on drug charges, even for simple possession of very small amounts, can expect to spend several months in jail before their case is decided, and convicted offenders can expect lengthy jail sentences and fines. Public Transportation: Maintenance and safety standards for operating public buses and small airlines in Guatemala are not up to U.S. standards. Guatemala's topography and climate can create unpredictable flying conditions. Public bus accidents due to equipment or human failure are frequent. Travelers may also encounter delays or be rerouted due to occasional equipment failure at Guatemala City's La Aurora Airport. Other Information: Updated information on Guatemalan adoption procedures and the U.S. immigrant visa application process is available from the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy. Prospective adoptive parents are asked to check with the Consular Section to be sure that their child's adoption is complete before traveling to Guatemala to apply for their child's immigrant visa. Additional information is available from the Office of Citizens Consular Services, Room 4817, Department of State, Washington, D.C. 20520, telephone (202) 647-3712. Civil Aviation Oversight: In April 1993, the U.S. Federal Aviation Administration assessed Guatemala's civil aviation authority as not in compliance with international aviation safety oversight standards for Guatemalan carriers operating to and from the U.S. While consultations to correct the deficiencies are ongoing, air carriers licensed by Guatemala are permitted to conduct limited operations to the U.S. subject to heightened FAA surveillance. The FAA is not providing heightened surveillance for operations to destinations other than the U.S. For further information, travelers may contact the Department of Transportation at 1-800-322-7873. Registration: Americans who register with the Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy in Guatemala City may obtain updated information on travel and security within Guatemala. Embassy Location: The U.S. Embassy in Guatemala is located at Avenida Reforma 7-01 in Zone 10, Guatemala City, telephone (502-2) 31-15-41. Consular Section hours for American Citizen Services are 8:00 a.m.-12:00 noon and l:00-3:00 p.m. No. 94-228 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ [1-3] Frequently-Asked-Questions (FAQ) Lists Currently (June 1995), there is *no* FAQ on Guatemala that I know of, but see item [1-6]! ------------------------------------------------------------------------ [1-4] Trip Reports Currently (June 1995), there is only one trip report on the rec.travel archives: http://www.digimark.net/rec-travel/central_america/guatemala/trip.freedman ------------------------------------------------------------------------ [1-5] Newsgroups and Mailing Lists + There is *no* newsgroup with continuous/exclusive coverage of Guatemalan culture, politics, economics, history, sports, and so on. + The "rec.travel.misc" and the "bit.listserv.travel-l" newsgroups periodically have threads about Guatemala: see section [3] of this compilation for an edited and annotated "Best-of". + The same holds for the TRAVEL-L bitnet mailing list. A bitnet mailing list similar in goals to rec.travel. To subscribe, send a mail message to listserv@trearn.bitnet consisting of the line: "subscribe travel-l firstname lastname". ------------------------------------------------------------------------ [1-6] Other Internet Services An excellent home-page on Guatemala is at: http://www.ualr.edu/~degonzalez/Guatemala.html [USA] Lonely Planet Publications have very valuable and very recent feedback from travelers (but no general information yet, as of May 1995): http://www.lonelyplanet.com/letters/cam_pc.htm#guat [USA?] City Net Express has more pointers: http://www.city.net/countries/guatemala/ [USA] David Koblas' "Currency Converter" does currently *not* allow you to find out the current exchange rates of the Guatemalan Quetzal vs. other currencies (as of November 1994): http://www.ora.com/cgi-bin/ora/currency [USA] Rick Bronson's "Tourism Offices Worldwide Directory", at: http://www.mbnet.mb.ca/lucas/travel/tourism-offices.html [Canada] listed the following addresses when I last checked (in October 1994): Guatemala Chamber of Commerce 10a Calle 3-80, Zona 1 Guatemala City, Guatemala +502-2-5478 Guatemala Tourist Commission 299 Alhambra Circle, #510 Coral Gables, FL 33134 +1-305-442-0651 Many other travel-related (in general) resources are accessible via: + the rec.travel archives: http://www.digimark.net/rec-travel/ [USA/MD] ftp://ftp.digimark.net/pub/rec-travel/ [USA/MD] or their mirror sites (select the closest for better network performance): http://www.solutions.net/rec-travel/ [Canada] ftp://www.solutions.net/ [Canada] ftp://ftp.nus.sg/pub/misc/travel/ [Singapore] http://www.nectec.or.th/rec-travel/index.html [Thailand] ftp://ftp.nectec.or.th/pub/mirrors/rec-travel/ [Thailand] + Lonely Planet Publications: http://www.lonelyplanet.com [USA?] + GNN Travelers' Center: http://nearnet.gnn.com/gnn/meta/travel/index.html [USA] or its mirror sites (select the closest for better network performance): http://bond.edu.au/gnn/meta/travel/index.html [Australia] http://www.wimsey.com/gnn/meta/travel/index.html [Canada] http://quasar.sba.dal.ca:2000/gnn/meta/travel/index.html [Canada] http://www.germany.eu.net:8000/gnn/meta/travel/index.html [Germany] http://www.iol.ie/gnn/meta/travel/index.html [Ireland] http://www.ntt.jp/gnn/meta/travel/index.html [Japan] http://www.elvis.msk.su/gnn/meta/travel/index.html [Russia] http://src.doc.ic.ac.uk/gnn/meta/travel/index.html [UK] http://www.digital.com/gnn/meta/travel/index.html [USA/CA] http://gnn.interpath.net/gnn/meta/travel/index.html [USA/NC] + City Net Express and The Virtual Tourist II: http://www.city.net/ [USA] http://wings.buffalo.edu/world/vt2/ [USA] + Going Places: http://travel.gpnet.com/ [USA] + TravelASSIST: http://travelassist.com/ [USA] ======================================================================== [2] Guidebooks [2-1] Rough/Real Guide + ??? The Rough Guide - Guatemala Harrap Columbus, ??? (UK), 199x ISBN ??? UK# ??? ??? pages available in North-America as: + ??? The Real Guide - Guatemala Prentice-Hall Press, New York (NY, USA), 1991 ISBN ??? US$ ??? ??? pages Simply excellent! Very informative and comprehensive (includes long sections on basics and contexts, and thus provides for excellent armchair traveling or reading material while on the trip). Highly recommended!!! I can't think of anything that could be included anywhere in this on-line guide that would not be redundant with this book. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ [2-2] Lonely Planet Guides + ??? Guatemala, Belize, Yucatan: La Ruta Maya - A Travel Survival Kit Lonely Planet Publishers, Victoria (Australia), 199x (2nd edition) ISBN ??? UK# 10.95 ??? pages, ?? maps, ?? color photos Also available in French. UK# 13.00 Same personal comments as for [2-1]. + ??? Central-America on a Shoestring Lonely Planet Publishers, Victoria (Australia), 199x (2nd edition) ISBN ??? UK# 10.95 ??? pages, ?? maps, ?? color photos + ??? Spanish (Latin American) Phrasebook Lonely Planet Publishers, Victoria (Australia), 199x ISBN ??? UK# 2.50 ??? pages I haven't read these. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ [2-3] Miscellaneous Books From: drudings@delphi.com (Susan Druding) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Re: Guatemala Vacation Tips Date: November 1993 I highly recommend a book by a journalist which was published quite recently: TIME AMONG the MAYA, by Ronald Wright. He travelled in Guate, Belize, Mexico and is knowledgable about anthropology and has a lot to say on the politics of the last decade which I found very interesting. He obviously is fluent enough in Spanish that he had many interesting conversations which he reports with candor and verve. I have travelled quite a bit in Mexico, but have not visited the Yucatan yet and this book is certainly more than just a guide to the Mayan areas. ======================================================================== [3] Threads on the "rec.travel.misc" Newsgroup [Editor's note: I considerably edited the following threads so as to keep them short and informative (and spell/grammar-checked). I also annotated them whenever I don't agree with other people, or have updates to what they wrote. Sometimes, I also include private followup email conversations I had with readers.] [3-1] Getting There From: ah505@yfn.ysu.edu (Brian Quinby) To: Chris Deibel Subject: Re: Guatemala Vacation Tips Please! (Tikal and ???) Date: November 1993 The cheapest way from MPLS to Guatemala is on Aviateca which has a nonstop from Chicago several times a week. It usually runs about $349 plus some assorted taxes. (WARNING: Aviateca will not sell you a tourist visa when you check in at O'Hare. This causes some problems -- minor -- when you get to Guatemala.) They might have a deal on Tikal -- the last one was fly to Guatemala on Aviateca, Tikal will cost $1 more. My travel agent, Mena Tours (ask for Juan Carlos) is a consolidator for Aviateca. They have an 800 number (they are on Clark Street in Chicago). ------------------------------------------------------------------------ [3-2] Itineraries and Getting Around From: michael.hough@canrem.com (Michael Hough) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Guatemala Date: October 1993 If you like Indians, then Guatemala is the place to be. Like the book they sell in the bookstores Guatemala Rainbow. Beautiful colours! Guatemala also has volcanos and beautiful colonial architecture, particually in Antigua. (Also a great place to learn Spanish, but you will meet more Gringos than Guatemaltecos here). There is also the tranquil Lake Atitlan and the impressive Mayan ruins of Tikal. You can get a special round trip flight from Guatemala City for $50. Beats the 13 hour bus ride. I'm not so crazy about old ruins, but the wildlife in Tikal is incredible. In a couple of hours I saw monkeys, Tucans and wild turkeys -- it would take me three days to see the same in Costa Rica. For Indian culture, don't miss Chichicastanango (Chi-Chi) on Sunday. You can also go up Volcan Pacaya as well -- pretty neat. --- From: Chris Deibel Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Re: Guatemala Vacation Tips Please! (Tikal and ???) Date: November 1993 We are considering a Spring vacation to Guatemala. We have visited ruins about Cancun, Mexico, and would like to see Tikal, Guatemala. However Tikal would take only ~2 days of our week of vacation (we don't think we would enjoy the jungle heat, humidity, etc for more than 2 days), so what do we do with the rest of the week? --- From: ccjtc@blaze.trentu.ca (John Casserly) To: Chris Deibel Subject: Re: Guatemala Vacation Tips Please! (Tikal and ???) Date: November 1993 Two other areas to visit are Chichicastango and Antigua. Both are small nice cities with historical significance and markets. Antigua is where may people go to learn Spanish. You can stay with locals and all they speak is Spanish. The best way to learn a language. --- From: "Leslie A. Tucker" To: Chris Deibel Subject: Re: Guatemala Vacation Tips Please! (Tikal and ???) Date: November 1993 There is a farm in Poptoon (sp?) that I stayed 2 nights of my month there. It is on the way from Flores to Livingston. An American woman runs it -- they have very inexpensive accomadations -- you can sleep in a hamock outside, a cabin, a treehouse or even a chicken coop! The food is fabulous -- they have their own garden. Lots of European travellers stay here. They have horseback riding, hiking, caving & lots of other stuff to do. It's a chance to enjoy the countryside but your not really seeing how the Guatemalans live -- all depends on what you want to get out of it. Don't miss Flores -- definitely take a walk around the town, go to the top of the hill. There are great restaurants in Flores. Livingston was really fun. It has a real Carribean feel. --- From: martin@megadata.mega.com.au (Martin Corr) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Re: Guatemala Vacation Tips Please! (Tikal and ???) Date: November 1993 Also Lake Atitlan (Panajachel near Chichi) is pleasant (if a tourist trap). Antigua is definitely worth a visit. --- From: penny@root.co.uk (Penny Gaines) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Re: Guatemala Vacation Tips Please! (Tikal and ???) Date: November 1993 Chichicastango has its market twice a week (Tuesdays and Sundays?), so make sure you pick the right days to go. When I was there we over heard two American women talking about the wonderful pot they had bought that only cost $25. They had obviously paid the asking price. DONT! We paid approximately 60% of the originally asking price for everything we bought. --- From: strigel@mindlink.bc.ca (Wolfgang Strigel) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Report on Guatemala Date: December 1993 We just spent 2 weeks in Guatemala. Here are some tips from our trip. First, it seems the inflation is rampant and all travel guides (e.g. the Lonely Planet) are out to lunch with their prices. We observed prices of a factor 2 to 3 higher than in those guides. Still, it's a great place for cheap travel. Most expensive were Guatemala City and Tikal. It's been 10 years that I haven't traveled with a backpack but I found it very easy in Guate to get around. We traveled mostly by local bus which is a great experience and dirt cheap (8.50Q for Panajachel-Guate City). Try to keep your luggage in the bus, we met a woman whose pack was stolen from the roof (by a gringo!). You may have to pay for an extra person but at those prices its worth it. The return flight Guate-Flores was US$107/person and well worth it (although the buses are fun you may not want to spent 14hrs in a row on them!). Packing: take a plastic water bottle to refill with clean water-we found that very handy. --- From: ah505@yfn.ysu.edu (Brian Quinby) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Re: Report on Guatemala Date: January 1994 I have just returned from three weeks in Guatemala. The rate of inflation is NOT running wild... I received 5.79 Quetzales per dollar at the bank (5.86 on the street, but I had travelers checks). Yes, the prices quoted in Lonely Planet's book La Ruta Maya are about 2 years out of date (the book was published in 19xx, folks). Expect to pay 2 to 3 times the quote at hotels. Beware of Tikal Jets... they are over booking like crazy and selling tickets on flights that do not exist. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ [3-3] Hiking From: flowers@lanai.cs.ucla.edu (Margot Flowers) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Re: Guatemala Highlands this January? Date: November 1993 In <...> sepstei1@cc.swarthmore.edu (Stephen Epstein) writes: >I'm hoping to go hiking up in the highlands of Guatemala in a couple >of months, but I'm wondering (a) whether the climate will be conducive >to it in that month Which month? If you mean Jan, it can sometimes get quite cold (near freezing) in the night in the highlands, but it is usually quite dry (sometimes there are fires) since rains are usually May - Sept. > ... and (b) what the most recent word is on the safety of wandering >trails up there (esp. by yourself) is. The best info I've seen on trails, including some crime info, is _Henry's Hint$ on Guatemala_, by Henry Gall. In it, he recommends going with groups or hiring a guide as good "insurance". Also there are a few "eco-tour" groups (e.g. self-employed guides) down there. This book is self published and includes some trail maps. According to the back of the book, you can order it for $9.95 + $1.00 for postage in the US, $2.00 postage for other countries (US or Guatemalan funds only), from Henry Gall, Apartado 409, Antigua 03001, Guatemala, CentroAmerica. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ [3-4] Safety From: pf@bilkent.edu.tr (Pierre Flener) To: Some.Body@Some.Where Subject: Re: Guatemala travel Date: October 1993 Considering the outstanding things to see in Guatemala (in terms of attraction density + variety, Guatemala is probably one of the best countries in the world!), you should definitely go to Guatemala. The main problems are the guerilla & bandits, who seem to like financing their operations by attacking/killing/raping unwary tourists. Whatever your guidebook says, or the local police/army/info-officer, just don't, DON't, stray between any pair of villages at any time of the day (except on public transportation of course), and don't stay out once it's dark (except if many people hang around where you go). This is serious business! But don't let yourself become paranoid because of this: most tourists never come close to any real threat, provided they followed these guidelines! --- From: sprangas@eos.ncsu.edu (S P RANGASWAMY) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Re: Guatemala Highlands this January? Date: November 1993 I guess the safety issue depends on whether you want to take risks. People who have been there tell me that it is not advised to travel at night as busloads of people may get robbed by highway robbers, if the locals say it is not safe then don't do it and finally don't climb volcanoes unescorted :-). Generally most towns on the Pan-American highway are safe and the tourist areas are free from the military or guerillas. --- From: geoff@chemeng.ed.ac.uk (Geoff Ballinger) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Re: Travel in Guatamala: safe everywhere ? Date: December 1993 yoav@jeremy.enet.dec.com (Yoav Hollander) writes: >Two friends of mine are planning a three-week trip to Guatamala on >January. They have got the usual tourist books, but they wonder just >how safe it is there right now, and whether there are areas they should >keep away from. I am just back from a trip which took me through the Peten, the Montague (sp?) valley, the Alta Verapaz, the Ixil triangle, and the Western and Southern Highlands. I am happy to say that I had no trouble anywhere and saw no sign of trouble anywhere (except perhaps in the number of police and army checkpoints near Guatemala City). I hope your friends enjoy their trip as much as I did mine. --- From: joseph@smerdis.ccqc.uga.edu (Joseph Evan Fowler) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Re: Guatemala Safe? Date: January 1994 My pretty girlfriend and I were in Guatemala a few years ago and found it to be quite safe. We were driving ourselves, and the only time we worried about guerrilla activity was on the rod to Tikal. We had been told that we would be perfectly safe unless we were on the road after dark (and then the risk was slight), so we started driving very early in the morning. We had four flat tires that day, because we had the wrong type of tires on the van, and we got a bit worried that we might be on the road at a dangerous time, but we made it perfectly fine thanks to the kindness and helpfulness of the people along the road. My advice would be: "Don't worrry. You'll be fine. Just stay alert." In addition, we learned that crossing the border can be done quicker and cheaper if the female deals with the officials and smiles lots. --- From: michael.hough@canrem.com (Michael Hough) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Guatemala Safe? Date: January 1994 >My pretty female traveling companion and I plan to bus across >Guatemala this month, Guate City to Puerto Barrios, in order to get to >Belize. We're both seasoned travelers however we have had little >experience with out-and-out insurrection or hostage-taking by >guerrillas. > >Any advice, impressions or anecdotes pertaining to this part of the >traveled world would be appreciated. I spent a month in Antigua and went as far as Flores by plane and to Tikal by bus. I never had any problems directly, but I did talk to friends who had. The Peten area has always been a hangout for the Mayan rebels, lots of jungle to hide in. In the Lonely Planet guidebook it says you may get stopped by these guerrillas (sp?) and be given a lecture then let you go on your way. It's still true, that is exactly what happened to my friend and that was in September'93 around Puerto Barrios. So far the Indians consider toursists as potential sympathizers to their cause so they would not try to harm you directly. When I was there I read reports of them blowing up bridges (or trying to) and knocking down hydro towers. With the events in Chiapas, Mexico, I am sure there is lots of sympathetic activity in Guatemala (of course the Guatemalan army will be ready to counter any threat with increased activity of their own). Advice: That's a pretty well-travelled route you are using and I don't see any problems. Guatemalans are pretty conservative and religious and are protective towards women. Just think twice about travelling somewhere that is infrequently travelled. In other words, use common sense. --- From: LANSLUDER@delphi.com (Lan Sluder) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Re: Guatemala, El Salvador, Belize --- Safe To Travel? Date: January 1994 Guatemala I think is safe for tourists. I was last there in March of last year. Tikal for example is like Disneyland, full of tourists from all over the world. In general I think you will be safer in Guatemala than in many parts of the U.S. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ [3-5] Guatemala Ciudad From: ah505@yfn.ysu.edu (Brian Quinby) To: Chris Deibel Subject: Re: Guatemala Vacation Tips Please! (Tikal and ???) Date: November 1993 In Guatemala City, I recommend the Spring Hotel in 12 Calle & Eighth Avenue in Zone 1. It is cheap and comfortable. They have a small restaurant. --- From: strigel@mindlink.bc.ca (Wolfgang Strigel) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Report on Guatemala Date: December 1993 A place to avoid. It's noisy, dirty and extremely polluted. A nice hotel, although mid-range prices, is the Posada Belen, 13 Calle off Ave 10, Zone1 at US$38for 2/night. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ [3-6] Antigua From: strigel@mindlink.bc.ca (Wolfgang Strigel) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Report on Guatemala Date: December 1993 Nice city with lots of gringos who go to Spanish school. Hotel Casa del Santa Lucia is close to the bus station and very nice at Q60/night for 2. Can see the whole city and volcanoes from their roof top. Go to San Antonio, about 10 miles from Antigua, to see some very nice textiles. We paid Q100 for a 3hr ride in a private taxi to visit San Antonio, the old city, coffee plantations, etc. (Ask for "John" at the hotel, he's nice, talks good English and his brother has the taxi). Casa de la Fonde Real is a very nice restaurant with good food. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ [3-7] Lago Atitlan From: strigel@mindlink.bc.ca (Wolfgang Strigel) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Report on Guatemala Date: December 1993 Panajachel. Also called "Gringotenango" because of the many tourists and gringo expatriates living there. Despite that we loved the place. Stayed at the Mayan Inn, just off the bus station, which looks more crummy from the outside than it is inside (Q80/night for 2). You can get much more crummy places for Q70 close to the beach. The lake is great for swimming. Take the local boats to go to Santiago, San Pedro, San Andreas, etc. Don't buy return tickets as you may end up using a different company to come back and they don't honor each others tickets. To get a real feeling for any of those villages you should get off the main streets into what looks like narrow back alleys. There's a whole network of them and it gives a much better impression of local life. --- From: ah505@yfn.ysu.edu (Brian Quinby) To: Chris Deibel Subject: Re: Guatemala Vacation Tips Please! (Tikal and ???) Date: November 1993 In Panajachel, I recommend the Hostel Las Casitas. Cheap and comfortable, but don't take Room 1 -- not good. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ [3-8] Chichicastenango From: strigel@mindlink.bc.ca (Wolfgang Strigel) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Report on Guatemala Date: December 1993 A wonderful place with the largest market in the country (market days are Thu and Sun). We found it most interesting the evening before market day. The church St. Thomas is a must. Lots of action on the stairs to the church and inside (Sun). It gets pretty cool in the evenings. Hotel Chuguila is ok but expensive (170Q) and rooms are dark. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ [3-9] Tikal/Flores From: wallach@MCS.COM (Harlan Wallach) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Tikal Info Date: January 1994 Ah, Tikal! Truly amazing. If you have money and not time, fly from Guate city, if you have time and no money, take the bus. I rode a local bus from Morales to Tikal, a seven hour ride, that took sixteen, during the rainy season. I had to push the bus out of the mud twice, and have a roadside bluebird bus repair when it dropped the water pump. They pulled the radiator there on the roadside and made the repair and off we went, a mere three hour delay. Stay a couple of days at the site. Jaguar Inn has tents that were 50q a night, very reasonable. Watch out for scorpions though. In Flores -- very pleasant island town -- it is great to relax in. Ask around for hotels. There are some excellent deals to be had apart from the listings in the guidebooks. At Tikal itself, get a guide. I recomend Angel Valdez Sosa. He hangs around at the restaurant across from the visitor center. He's very good. Then explore at will. Temple IV at sunset is an experience you'll never forget. The pyramid has a great view that is not generally listed in the books. I mean the pyramid, not temple IV, which also has a great view. The carvings in the site are all pretty much eroded, but the buildings, both restored and au naturale, are superb. The paths through the jungle, the birds, nuttin quite like it. --- From: wallach@MCS.COM (Harlan Wallach) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Re: Tikal Info Date: January 1994 >50/Q a night for a tent!!!!!!! Yeah, that's right 50q, that's about $7.50, to stay in a heavy tent w/ netting and have a bathroom and shower available, and be at the site, instead of at Flores. I saw the folks that slept out under the stars in the jungle. My days of being a buffet for Guatemalan mosquitos hasn't quite got here yet... --- From: martin@megadata.mega.com.au (Martin Corr) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Re: Guatemala Vacation Tips Please! (Tikal and ???) Date: November 1993 >Don't miss Flores -- definitely take a walk around the town, go to the >top of the hill. There are great restaurants in Flores. Personal opinion only, but I found Flores a dirty, boring city. You might try to stay outside Flores at "El Gringo Perdido" (?) which is a small place with thatched bungalows on the edge of Lake Peten Itza. (I can supply more info on request). The place is about half way from Flores to Tikal and the owners can arrange trips to other sites outside Tikal if you want (the whole area is surrounded by ruins). --- From: ah505@yfn.ysu.edu (Brian Quinby) To: Chris Deibel Subject: Re: Guatemala Vacation Tips Please! (Tikal and ???) Date: November 1993 There should be a fair amount of rain when you get to Tikal (or may be there won't - it is impossible to predict El Nino). But regardless of when you go, it is important to protect yourself against malaria. You need to see your doctor or the Public Health Service and get a prescription for Mefloquin (sp?) which is the best anti-malarial on the market right now. The malaria mosquito only comes out at night and has a hard time flying in breezy air so you DO need to have a fan in your hotel room. Also bring 100% deet bug repellant. --- From: strigel@mindlink.bc.ca (Wolfgang Strigel) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Report on Guatemala Date: December 1993 Great place in tropical jungle. At Tikal you should meet "Roxy", the manager of the Tikal Inn (US$40/night for 2). She's an incredible source of knowledge on everything from the Mayan culture to flora, fauna, and politics (politician father was killed in the revolution). She's studied archeology and participated digging out some ruins. She also gives tours but just a few hours chatting with her are very well spent. The place is pretty expensive: park fees are 30Q/day/person. Food is expensive and there are about 3 or 4 hotels, all pretty expensive. The Tikal Inn is nice with a pool but you may have trouble to get a spot in the high season (now to April). Stick to the major paths when looking for ruins, we got lost for 1.5 hrs in the jungle. Flores is a very nice and picturesque place, partly submerged by the rising lake. Minibuses between Tikal and Flores are expensive, try to find local busses. If you take a boat tour on the lake tell them not to go to the zoo -- it's not worth it. --- From: ah505@yfn.ysu.edu (Brian Quinby) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Re: Tikal Date: January 1994 The cost of a round trip ticket from Guatemala to Flores, as of two weeks ago, was $150. Rumor has it that Aviateca may return to their $1 deal if you fly them to Guatemala from US. Another rumor has it that the $50 fare may be reintroduced. I stayed at the Gran Hotel Yum Kax [in Flores] which was just fine -- $20 per night for a double with fan (I wasn't up to listening to an air conditioner all night and it would have cost $4 more to do so). Touts at the airport will say that the bus fare to Tikal is 100 Quetzales -- don't believe them. It is 30Q from the hotel [in Flores, to Tikal] [and 10Q/person from the airport to Flores]. You can skip the Mayan Prince restaurant. First time in my life that I have ever paid $5 for a tuna casserole (it was better than I usuallly make it, but still...). ------------------------------------------------------------------------ [3-10] Crossing from/to Honduras From: martin@megadata.mega.com.au (Martin Corr) Newsgroups: rec.travel Subject: Re: Guatemala Vacation Tips Please! (Tikal and ???) Date: November 1993 > You might even consider visting nearby Honduras, although I've heard > the border isn't exactly open between the two countries... Certainly is. Just check the hours. It closes (El Florido border crossing) at 6pm and the last 11km can take up to 3 hours in the local bus. Don't stay at El Florido. It's not luxurious. Copan is every bit as good as Tikal but for different reasons. ========================================================================